THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


PRESENTED  BY 

PROF.  CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 
MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


CAMP  LIFK 


IN 


F  L  O  E  I  D  A  ; 


A     HAN  DBOOK 

FOR 

SPORTSMEN  AND  SETTLERS. 


COMPILED   BY 

CHARLES     HALLOCK, 

AUTHOR  OF  "THE  WISHING  TOURIST." 


PUBLISHED    BY 

FOREST  AND   STREAM   PUBLISHING  COMPANY. 

AMERICAN  NEWS  COMPANY,  AGENTS. 
187G. 


COPYRIGHT,  1875,  by  CHARLES  HALLOCK. 


Elcctrotypcd  by  Sinrn  &  McDouGAL,  82  Beekman  Street,  New  York. 


'.5/4 

3 


INSCRIBED 
TO  THE  FRONDS  OF 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

PREFATORY k .  k 7 

I.— BIRDS-EYE  GLAFCE  AT  FLORIDA 18 

II. — OUTFIT  FOR  SPORTSMEN 28 

III.— HINTS  FOR  SOUTHERN  HUNTING 80 

IV.— COASTWISE  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL 85 

V.— GAME  ANIMALS  AND  BIRDS  OF  FLORIDA 41 

VI.— GAME  FISH  OF  FLORIDA 50 

VII. — THREE  MONTHS  IN   FLORIDA  FOR  ONE  HUNDRED 

DOLLARS w 67 

VIII.— SUPPLEMENTARY  HINTS  FOR  CHEAP  RECREATION.  . .    85 

IX. — UP  THE  ST.  JOHNS  RIVER 1)2 

X. — INDIAN  RIVER 102 

XL — FLORIDA  THE  PROMISED  LAND 107 

XII.— FORT  CAPRON 113 

XIII. — FISHING  AT  ST.  AUGUSTINE 118 

XIV. — BLACK  BASS  FISHING  ON  SPRUCE  CREEK 123 

XV.— HUNTING  THE  PANTHER 127 

XVI.— THE  ENATRONS  OF  TXYLLAHASSEE 135 

XVII. — PRIVATE  DOUGHERTY  AND  THE  BASS 140 

XVIII. — PET  BIRDS  OF  ST.  AUGUSTIXE 145 

XIX. — STEAM  YACHTING  on  THE  ST.  JOHNS 151 

XX.— AMONG  THE  SEMINOLES.  .  179 


vi  C  O  X  T  E  N  T  S  . 

PAGE 

XXL— IN  THE  CYPRESS  SWAMPS  it)  4 

XXII. — CRUISING  ALONG  SIJOUE "201 

XXI1L— SHOOTING  AT  SALT  LAKE 217 

XXIV. — THE  OKEECHOBEE  EXPEDITION 224 

XXV.— FLORIDA  TRAVEL 2o3 

XXVI.— IIOMOSASSA-T ALLAH ASSEE 259 

XXVII.— SOUTH  WEST  FLORIDA 204 

1. — Fernandina  to  Cedar  Keys 204 

2. — Manatee  Sarasota  and  Gasparilla 209 

3.— Among  the  Keys 277 

4. — Meteorology 284 

5. — Pimta  Rassa  and  Caloosalmtcliie 291 

6.— Up  the  Caloosahatchic  River 296 

7.— Visi  t  to  Okeechobce 305 

8. — Indian  Mounds  and  Canals 312 

9.— Tampa 321 

10. — Subterranean  Streams 328 

11. — A  Sportsman's  Paradise 334 

12.— Suggestions  to  Tourists 343 


CAMP    LIFE    IN    FLORIDA, 


PREFATORY. 

THIS  volume  is  a  compilation  from  the  columns  of 
the  sportsmen's  journal  known  as  the  "Forest 
and  Stream."  It  is,  in  great  part,  the  outcome  of  two 
special  commissions  sent  by  the  publishers  of  that  paper 
to  explore  southern  and  south-western  Florida — one 
of  them  to  Lake  Okeechobee,  in  the  winter  of  1873-'74, 
and  the  other,  in  the  winter  and  spring  of  1874-'75,  to 
the  section  laved  by  the  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
To  some  of  its  readers  it  will  therefore  appear  at  second 
hand  ;  but  republication  is  justified  and  extenuated  by 
the  fact  that  it  has  been  pressed  by  repeated  solicitations 
of  gentlemen  who  appreciate  the  value  of  the  informa 
tion  its  chapters  contain.  So  little  is  known  of  the 
Florida  Peninsula,  and  so  very  meagre  are  the  written 
accounts  of  its  geography  and  resources,  that  the  citizens 
of  Florida  have,  privately  and  through  the  press  and 
public  meetings,  acknowledged  to  the  editor  his  substan 
tial  service  rendered  to  the  State.  Now,  more  than  ever, 
is  attention  being  directed  to  the  Land  of  Flowers. 
Winter  visitors  in  vast  numbers  migrate  thither  as  regu 
larly  as  the  birds  of  passage.  Twenty  thousand  people 


8  PREFATORY. 

visited  St.  Augustine  last  winter.,  and  will  be  multiplied 
in  the  next,  The  hotel  accommodations  there  have  been 
trebled  within  live  years,  and  are  still  increasing.  Not 
only  at  Jacksonville,  Green  Cove  Springs,  and  other 
favorite  resorts  on  the  St.  Johns  river,  but  also  on  the 
eastern  seaboard  and  the  south-west  coast,  hotels  are 
being  erected  for  use  in  the  approaching  season.  New 
steamers  have  been  added  to  the  St.  Johns  river  lines, 
and  increased  facilities  opened  for  communication  with 
the  North.  Agricultural  resources  have  been  developed 
beyond  expectation.  Lands  have  been  opened  that  arc 
richly  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  the  orange,  banana, 
guava,  and  pineapple,  while  the  early  northern  markets 
for  green  peas,  cucumbers,  strawberries,  tomatoes,  and 
melons,  offer  pecuniary  temptations  to  gardeners  that 
cannot  be  overlooked.  Agricultural  and  emigration 
societies  have  been  established,  and  newspapers  devoted 
to  the  economic  interests  of  the  State.  Land  for  well- 
located  farms  has  appreciated  five  times  its  value  in  three 
years,  and  real  estate  has  advanced  to  fancy  prices  at  the 
principal  watering-places.  Northern  merchants  have 
built  princely  residences  there  ;  considerable  settlements 
have  been  made  at  numerous  points  on  the  coast  and  in 
the  interior  ;  and  old  familiar  places  arc  no  longer  recog 
nized,  such  changes  have  a  few  years  wrought.  Even 
that  old  travesty  on  railroads,  the  wooden  line  from 
Tocoi  to  St.  Augustine,  has  given  place  to  iron  rails, 
quick  transit,  and  comfortable  passenger  coaches.  In 
valids  throng  its  health-giving  atmosphere  and  healing 
springs.  Sportsmen  find  rich  returns  in  sections  that 
are  alive  with  game,  and  which,  only  two  years  ago,  were 
unknown  and  inaccessible.  There  is  no  place  on  this 
continent  like  Florida,  for  both  game  and  fish. 


PREFATORY.  9 

Among  other  modern  improvements,  a  railroad  is 
projected,  to  connect  Lake  Harris  with  the  St.  Johns 
river,  at  Hawkinsville  on  Lake  George.  The  lands  on 
Lake  Harris  are  among  the  best  in  East  Florida.  The 
scenery  is  unusually  beautiful  and  attractive.  Frost 
seldom,  if  ever,  injures  the  sugar-cane  ;  it  tassels,  and 
grows  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  in  height.  Lake  Har 
ris  connects  with  Lakes  Griffin  and  Huestis.  The 
timber  around  the  lakes  is  tall  and  stately.  Fine  fish  in 
abundance  abound  in  their  waters.  This  section  is 
healthy,  and  is  rapidly  filling  up  with  new  settlers,  and 
will  in  a  few  years  become  one  of  the  most  interesting 
settlements  in  this  country.  These  settlers  find  much 
profit  in  the  culture  and  sale  of  fruits  and  vegetables  for 
the  early  northern  markets.  Even  in  the  interior  of  the 
State,  notably  at  Lake  City,  many  of  the  citizens  are 
speaking  of  giving  up  the  cultivation  of  cotton,  and  turn 
ing  their  attention  to  English  peas  and  other  vegetables 
for  shipment  to  northern  markets.  Several  intend  try 
ing  tobacco,  and,  if  successful,  it  will  soon  become  a 
leading  production.  Eighteen  years  ago,  with  the 
exception  of  Welaka,  scarcely  anything  was  to  be  seen 
but  the  interminable  forests  along  the  St.  Johns  river. 
There  was  scarcely  a  settlement  or  clearing  to  mark  the 
advance  of  civilization.  What  a  change  now  appears  ! 
landings,  clearings,  houses,  and  orange  groves  map  out 
to  the  eye  of  the  traveller  the  rapid  improvement  now 
going  on. 

With  regard  to  orange  culture,  the  "  Rural  Caroli 
nian  "  says  that  trees  can  be  had  at  some  wild  groves  for 
the  getting.  At  others,  ten  to  twenty-five  cents  each 
is  the  price.  An  ordinary  sail-boat  will  carry  thirty  to 
seventy-live  trees,  averaging  two  inches  in  diameter,  and 
1* 


10  PREFATORY. 

a  round  trip  of  twenty  to  forty  miles  can  be  made  with 
a  load  in  three  or  four  days.  If  judiciously  taken  up, 
carefully  handled,,  and  properly  planted,  from  January 
until  March,  and  the  sweet  bud  put  in  in  May  or  June, 
they  will  grow  three  or  four  feet  the  same  year,  and 
sometimes  will  bear  the  next.  Nearly  all  will  bear  the 
third  year,  with  proper  attention,  and  the  fifth  will 
reimburse  all  expenses.  From  the  present  stand-point, 
looking  through  the  experience  of  others,  and  taking 
success  as  a  guide  and  error  as  a  warning,  a  straighter 
and  shorter  path  (fast  becoming  a  plain,  well-beaten 
highway)  can  be  taken  to  success.  Sweet  seedlings, 
from  three  to  five  years  old,  cost  twenty-five  cents  to 
one  dollar  each,  according  to  age  and  size.  They  are 
hardy,  rapid  growers,  and  usually  bear  the  seventh  year. 
The  effect  of  budding  or  grafting  is  the  same  on  them 
as  the  sour  tree.  Field  crops  are  usually  made  three  or 
four  years,  widening  each  year  the  space  between  the 
rows  and  trees.  The  past  has  presented  no  difficulty 
in  the  way  of  orange  culture,  which  energy  and  good 
judgment  will  not  overcome. 

One  of  the  most  useful  improvements  contemplated, 
is  the  canal  now  being  laid  out  by  the  United  States 
Coast  Survey,  across  the  narrow  strip  of  dividing  lands 
between  the  Indian  river  proper  and  Mosquito  lagoon, 
where  the  present  canal  has  been  cut.  This  strip  of 
land  is  coquina  rock,  soft,  and  very  easy  to  excavate, 
about  ten  feet  above  the  water,  and  only  eight  hundred 
yards  wide  from  this  canal  north  to  the  head  of  naviga 
ble  waters.  On  the  Tomoko  the  channel  is  open  and 
clear.  The  distance  is  about  seventy-five  miles.  From 
thence  across  the  land  to  navigable  waters  of  Haws' 
creek,  the  distance  cannot  exceed  ten  miles,  and  the 


PKEFATORY.  11 

average  height  above  the  water  level  of  both  streams 
cannot  be  over  six  feet.  No  dams  or  locks  will  be 
required  ;  there  will  always  be  water  enough.  In  fact, 
these  two  canals  will  make  Indian  river  a  tributary  to 
the  St.  Johns  one  hundred  times  more  valuable  than 
the  whole  upper  St.  Johns.  This  scheme,  the  Palatka 
"Herald"  says,  is  receiving  the  gravest  attention  of  the 
most  practical  men. 

There  seems  no  doubt  that  the  population  and  de 
veloped  resources  of  Florida  are  destined  to  double  in 
ten  years.  Those  who  have  some  prescience  will  do  well 
now  to  take  time  by  the  forelock,  that  they  may  reap 
coming  advantages. 

Very  little  of  value  to  the  sportsman,  the  yachtsman, 
or  the  intending  settler,  remains  unsaid  in  this  book  re 
garding  these  abundant  resources,  or  the  lines  of  inter 
nal  communication.  The  game  and  fish  are  here  scien 
tifically  classified ;  the  routes  of  travel,  coastwise  and 
internal,  are  accurately  outlined  ;  ample  instructions  are 
given  to  the  sportsman  and  tourist ;  the  capabilities  and 
profits  of  the  soil,  with  eligible  localities  for  settlement, 
sojourn,  health,  or  pleasure,  are  indicated  to  those  who 
desire  to  become  permanent  or  temporary  residents. 
In  its  entirety  the  volume  is  just  what  has  been  long 
wanted  and  much  asked  for ;  and  therefore  the  editor 
offers  no  apology  for  the  manner  in  which  its  material 
has  been  appropriated  and  collated.  Those  who  have 
contributed  to  its  contents  will  be  recognized  as  well 
qualified  and  reliable. 

It  may  be  literally  asserted  that  the  southern  portion 
of  the  peninsula  of  Florida  has  never  been  settled. 
Ancient  as  was  the  old  Spanish  tenure,  and  obstinately 
contested  as  was  the  possession  of  its  territory  for  two 


12  PREFATORY. 

centuries  and  a  half,  the  population  at  no  one  period 
was  ever  considerable,  while  the  feeble  settlements  were 
widely  scattered  and  confined  to  eligible  points  upon 
the  lower  St.  John  and  the  seaboard.  The  interior  was 
occupied  by  the  Seminole  Indians,  and  the  negroes 
whom  they  held  as  slaves,  while  the  innermost  jungles 
wherein  they  dwelt  were  almost  impenetrable,  as  events 
proved,  even  to  the  well-appointed  armies  of  the  United 
States,  which,  forty  years  ago,  were  delegated  to  hunt 
them  out.  When,  finally,  the  great  body  of  the  Indians 
were  induced  to  migrate  to  the  West,  some  spirit  of 
curiosity  or  adventure,  or  hope  incited  by  vague  state 
ments  of  the  fertility,  fecundity,  and  tropical  luxuri 
ance  of  the  interior,  prompted  a  few  to  attempt  settle 
ments  there  ;  but  their  advance  was  invariably  barred 
by  a  cordon  of  swamp,  lagoon,  and  jungle,  that  swarmed 
with  repulsive  reptiles  and  noxious  insects,  making 
occupation  not  only  unbearable,  but  dangerous.  Never 
theless,  the  desire  that  by  nature  becomes  insatiate  when 
unsatisfied,  the  incentive  to  explore  where  mysteries 
hide,  has  been  burning  continually,  and  attempts  have 
been  periodically  repeated  to  explore  the  unknown  pen 
etralia.  Occasionally  some  survivor  of  the  Seminole 
war  would  recall  for  eager  listeners  some  shadowy 
reminiscences  of  a  great  interior  lake,  beside  whose 
limpid  shores  military  outposts  were  planted  after  assid 
uous  toil  through  the  morass  that  intervened,  and  dilate 
upon  the  luxuriant  farms  that  were  found  where  the  Red 
men  once  inhabited.*  These  statements  gave  color  to 
traditional  rumors,  and  stimulated  the  desire  of  those 

*  Lake  Okeechobee  was  frequently  visited  by  officers  of  the 
regular  army  engaged  in  the  several  campaigns  against  the  Semi- 
noles  in  that  section.  The  gallant  Captain  Uruland,  of  the  Fourth 


PEEFATOEY.  13 

who  came,  to  regard  the  Everglades  and  Okeechobee  as 
a  forbidden  Eden,  which  none  might  enter  except  by  the 
sesame  of  some  secret  portal.  The  evidences  that  some 
undiscovered  route  existed,  by  which  the  lake  could  be, 
and  had  been,  reached  in  earlier  times,  at  last  became  so 
indubitable  as  to  determine  the  publishers  of  "Forest 
and  Stream"  to  fit  out  an  exploring  expedition  with. all 
the  appliances  necessary  to  success.  Volunteers  were  in 
readiness,  and  the  expedition  started  about  December  1, 
1873.  It  was  headed  by  Mr.  F.  A.  Ober,  a  young  natu 
ralist  of  Massachusetts,  possessing  all  those  qualifications 
indispensable  to  the  accomplishment  of  its  object  which 
are  so  rarely  found  in  combination,  viz.,  physical  tough 
ness  and  endurance,  pluck,  push,  dogged  perseverance, 
a  thorough  knowledge  of  woodcraft  in  general  and  of  so 
much  of  this  portion  of  Florida  as  he  had  acquired  by 
previous  visits,  skill  with  the  canoe,  the  rod,  and  the 
rifle,  and  an  intelligent  acquaintance  with  drawing,  pho 
tography,  and  natural  history.  To  this  valuable  stock  in 
trade  he  added  an  outfit  complete  in  all  its  requirements 
of  boats,  implements,  guides,  photographic  instruments, 
etc.  He  was  absent  four  months,  and  the  successful 
result  is  shown  in  the  chapters  that  follow  over  the  signa 
ture  of  "  Fred  Beverly."  Only  those  who  have  engaged 
in  similar  service  can  appreciate  the  difficulties  that  beset 
his  endeavor.  More  than  twenty  miles  of  the  journey 
was  accomplished  by  wading  and  pushing  their  boat  by 
hand  through  swamps  swarming  with  alligators,  and 
infested  with  poisonous  snakes  and  all  kinds  of  creeping, 
stinging,  and  flying  vermin.  Mud,  water,  and  heat 
made  the  transit  most  fatiguing,  trailing  vines  that  con- 
Artillery,  once  a  professor  at  the  United  States  Military  Academy 
at  West  Point,  now  lies  buried  upon  its  banks. 


14  PREFATORY. 

stantly  barred  their  progress  had  to  bo  cleared  away,  and 
whenever  they  found  a  bit  of  terra  fir  ma  solid  enough 
to  camp  on,  it  was  scarcely  more  than  six  inches  above 
the  surrounding  mire. 

Of  Lake  Okeechobce  itself  few  praises  can  be  sung. 
It  is  a  vast  lagoon,  surrounded  by  marshes,  with  shores 
scarcely  above  its  level  in  any  place.  Writers  who  pre 
tended  to  have  visited  it,  invested  it  with  a  romance 
that  was  very  far  from  the  realization.  It  was  repre 
sented  to  be  studded  with  islands,  and  flanked  with  bold, 
rocky  shores,  and  forests  of  mahogany,  palmetto,  and 
fragrant  magnolia  ;  and  ruins  were  found  on  the  islands, 
and  strange  creatures  inhabited  the  earth,  air,,  and  water. 
These,  however,  are  as  mythical  as  was  the  original  fact 
of  its  supposed  existence. 

The  second  expedition  occupied  the  winter  of  1874 
and  the  spring  of  1875.  It  covered  the  whole  of  south 
western  Florida,  a  section  but  little  known  beyond  its 
limits,  but  which  is  proven  to  be  one  of  the  choicest  of 
the  delectable  lands  of  the  State.  It  was  under  the 
charge  of  Dr.  Charles  J.  Ken  worthy,  an  old  campaigner 
in  many  foreign  countries,  but  now  a  resident  of  Jack 
sonville,  Florida,  whose  efforts  were  heartily  seconded 
and  essentially  expedited  by  the  officers  of  the  various 
lines  of  coastwise  and  interior  communication,  who  fur 
nished  him  with  free  passes  and  transportation  for  his 
boat  and  outfit,  whenever  asked  for,  throughout  the 
field  of  exploration.  The  telegraph  companies  also 
rendered  their  services  when  needed,  and  at  Punta  Rassa 
even  provided  store  room  for  his  boat  and  implements, 
the  narrative  whereof  is  written  over  the  signature  of 
"Al  Fresco." 

lu  other  chapters  the  charms  of  the  St.  Johns  river 


PREFATORY.  15 

life  are  unfolded  by  Com.  L.  A.  Beardslee,  United 
States  Navy,  and  L.  W.  Ledyard,  Esq. ,  in  a  way  to  make 
them  the  most  attractive  and  enjoyable  ;  there  are  a  few 
miscellaneous  sketches  by  General  Jordan,  Major  11.  W. 
Merrill,  and  Captain  Aug.  E.  Egbert,  United  States 
Army,  and  Asa  Wall,  Esq.,  of  Virginia  ;  while  the  contri 
butions  to  Natural  History  by  those  well-known  students, 
S.  C.  Clarke,  C.  J.  Maynard,  and  George  A.  Boardman, 
have  a  special  value  to  the  student  and  scientist.  The 
book  will  certainly  not  fail  of  the  appreciation  it  deserves. 

CHAS.  HALLOCK,  Editor. 


BIRD'S-EYE  GLANCE  AT  FLORIDA. 

IT  is  a  singular  fact  that  for  a  part  of  the  year  at  least 
three-fourths  of  Florida  is  under  water.  After  such 
an  introduction  my  readers  will  perhaps  think  that  I 
have  chosen  a  very  unattractive  subject,  for  they  can 
scarcely  see  what  there  is  that  can  possibly  be  interesting 
in  S2vamps,  even  though  they  are  vast,  and  teeming  witli 
an  exuberant  growth  of  vegetation,  or  in  sluggish  rivers, 
if  they  do  abound  in  all  classes  of  animal  life.  Had  I 
nothing  to  write  about,  however,  excepting  the  sub 
merged  sections,  I  trust  I  could  find  something  even 
there  which  would  interest  and  perhaps  instruct  my 
readers.  But  it  must  be  remembered  that  the  State  of 
which  I  am  speaking  contains  nearly  as  much  land  as  is 
occupied  by  Xew  England,  and  that  notwithstanding 
three-fourths  of  it  is  under  water,  the  number  of  square 
miles  which  are  never  flooded  considerably  exceed  the 
area  of  Massachusetts.  This  country  has  also  considera 
ble  value,  and  the  United  States  was  aware  of  this  fact, 
for  in  1819  $15,000,000  were  paid  to  Spain  for  relin 
quishing  her  claims.  Although  the  Government  has 
doubtless  committed  many  errors,  this  purchase  cannot 
be  considered  as  one  of  them.  For,  aside  from  the 
question  of  the  protection  afforded  to  our  southern  bor 
ders,  this  peninsula  is  certainly  a  desirable  acquisition 
to  the  Union. 


BIRD'S-EYE  GLAXCE  AT  FLORIDA.  17 

The  water  which  covers  so  much  of  Florida  is  both 
detrimental  and  beneficial  to  the  inhabitants.  Much 
arable  land  is  rendered  worthless  from  this  cause,  but  it 
is  by  means  of  the  numerous  rivers  and  bayous  that  the 
settlers  gain  ready  access  to  the  interior.  The  St.  Johns 
is  the  largest  river  in  the  State,  and  forms  the  principal 
thoroughfare  to  the  numerous  little  towns  which  are 
situated  on  its  banks.  As  the  region  through  which 
this  river  flows  contains  as  many  inhabitants  as  any 
other  portion  of  the  State,  I  will  endeavor  to  convey 
some  idea  of  this  section  by  describing  what  I  have  seen 
while  making  several  trips  up  this  stream.  I  say  up, 
but  as  the  St.  Johns  rises  nearly  two  hundred  miles 
south  of  its  outlet,  this  term  will  perhaps  give  an  errone 
ous  idea,  for  this  is  the  only  river  in  the  United  States 
that  flows  directly  north,  and  as  the  peninsula  lies  north 
and  south,  this  stream  runs  parallel  with  the  coast  as  far 
as  Jacksonville  ;  then  turning  directly  east  flows  into  the 
Atlantic  ocean,  within  twenty-five  miles  of  the  northern 
boundary  of  the  State,  thus  traversing  in  its  course 
nearly  two-thirds  of  the  entire  length  of  Florida. 

Jacksonville  is  the  largest  city  in  the  State,  and 
although  of  recent  growth  compared  with  other  towns, 
contains  about  10,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  centre  of 
trade.  Several  lines  of  small  river  steamers  form  the 
means  of  communication  with  the  interior. 

I  found  myself  on  one  of  these  little  steamers  early 
one  December  morning,  gliding  over  the  sun-lit  waters. 
The  river  for  about  a  hundred  miles  is  very  wide,  being 
a  succession  of  lakes,  on  which  account  the  Indians 
named  the  stream  "  Welaka,"  which  in  their  language 
signifies  the  river  of  lakes.  These  lakes  vary  from  two 
to  ten  miles  in  width,  and  as  the  boat  kept  in  the  mid- 


18  BIRD'S-EYE  GLAXCE  AT  FLORIDA. 

die,  we  could  see  but  little  of  the  shores,  excepting  when 
we  called  at  various  towns.  The  small  size  of  these  vil 
lages  surprised  me  much,  for  I  had  long  been  familiar 
with  their  names  on  the  maps,  and  although  some  of 
them  have  been  settled  for  about  three  hundred  years, 
at  the  time  of  my  first  visit,  in  1868,  they  contained  but 
three  or  four  houses.  Of  course,  in  the  days  when  the 
Spaniards  occupied  Florida  these  places  were  much 
larger,  being  important  military  posts,  and  formed  the 
homes  of  many  inhabitants.  They  have  deteriorated 
much  since,  but  are  now  growing  slowly  ;  how  slowly 
may  be  seen  by  the  fact  that  after  an  absence  of  four 
years  I  again  visited  this  section  and  found  that  some 
villages  had  added  only  one  or  two  houses  to  their  num 
ber,  while  others  remained  as  I  had  previously  seen 
them.  I  have  used  the  term  houses  in  speaking  of  the 
inhabited  structures  along  the  upper  St.  Johns,  but 
shanties  would  perhaps  convey  a  better  idea  of  their 
appearance.  It  will  be  a  source  of  much  wonder  why 
the  steamers  touched  at  such  places,  but  it  must  be 
understood  that  they  are  with  a  few  exceptions  represen 
tatives  of  the  towns  in  East  Florida,  and  contained  post- 
offices.  We  stopped  then  to  leave  the  mail,  and  fre 
quently  to  take  on  wood,  or  occasionally  found  a  passen 
ger  waiting.  And  odd  passengers  they  were  too,  many 
of  them  genuine  Florida  "  crackers." 

At  a  wooding-up  station  where  there  was  but  one 
dwelling,  a  queer  looking  specimen  of  humanity  came 
on  board  in  the  shape  of  a  long,  lank  individual,  clad  in 
homespun.  In  one  hand  he  carried  an  old-fashioned 
rifle,  and  with  the  other  led  a  fine  looking  horse,  upon 
which  was  strapped  a  large  saddle,  with  a  saddle-bag 
and  an  axe-handle  hanging  on  either  side.  This  singular 


BIRD'S-EYE  GLAKCE  AT  FLORIDA.  19 

being  had  a  powder-horn  suspended  from  his  brawny 
neck,  and  his  matted  black  hair  hung  down  to  his  shoul 
ders,  while  his  unkempt  beard  reached  nearly  to  his 
waist.  A  pair  of  sinister  eyes  looked  out  from  under 
the  shaggy  brows,  which  were  shaded  by  a  slouched  hat. 
He  was  evidently  a  hunter  by  profession.  At  one  of 
these  stopping  places  we  dropped  a  little  dried-up  man, 
whose  countenance  indicated  an  uncertain  age.  He 
might  have  been  twenty  or  even  fifty,  for  he  was  evi 
dently  one  of  the  Rip  Van  Winkle  type  of  men  who  can 
lie  down  and  sleep  an  age  or  two  in  the  wilderness  with 
out  trouble.  From  this  sleep  they  will  arise  half  awake, 
and  again  plod  through  the  world,  no  more  or  less 
musty-looking  or  dried  up  than  before.  Such  men, 
even  while  in  infancy,  have  scarcely  enough  flesh  to 
cover  their  bones.  As  they  grow  older  this  little  ex 
pands,  until  a  certain  age,  when  it  hardens ;  then  old 
Time  may  shake  his  glass  over  their  heads  without  pro 
ducing  the  slightest  effect,  or  hack  at  them  with  his 
rusty  scythe  in  vain — they  look  not  an  hour  older. 
Such  was  the  bodily  appearance  of  the  man  whom  we 
dropped  at  this  place.  He  was  clad  in  a  very  dirty 
suit  of  homespun  cotton  cloth,  while  a  satchel  of  the 
same  material  hung  at  his  side.  His  not  very  prepos 
sessing  face  was  shaded  by  an  old  palmetto  hat,  from 
beneath  which  his  long  flaxen  hair  hung  in  tangled 
skeins.  His  stockingless  feet,  thrust  into  a  pair  of 
broad-soled  shoes,  proclaimed  him  a  cracker  of  the  lowest 
class. 

The  steamers  move  slowly  against  the  current,  so 
that  in  twenty-four  hours  we  had  accomplished  but  one 
hundred  miles  of  our  journey,  and  on  the  following 
morning  we  were  crossing  Lake  George.  This  is  a  very 


20  BIRD'S-EYE  GLANCE  AT  FLORIDA. 

large  expanse  of  water,  about  ten  miles  in  diameter. 
At  the  southern  extremity  the  river  suddenly  narrows, 
so  that  it  is  but  a  few  rods  across.  Here  the  scenery 
changes  entirely.  The  stately  live-oaks  and  pines  of  the 
more  northern  St.  Johns  give  place  to  the  tropical-look 
ing  palmetto  and  the  gracef  ul-foliaged  sweet  bay.  Vege 
tation  is  also  much  more  advanced,  and  as  the  steamer 
almost  brushed  against  the  luxuriant  foliage,  we  could 
catch  the  odors  of  thousands  of  flowering  shrubs  grow 
ing  in  the  dense  forest  which  lay  on  either  side.  It  was 
indeed  a  scene  of  surpassing  loveliness,  to  which  I  can 
scarcely  do  justice.  One  must  stand,  as  I  stood  that 
morning,  with  every  sense  rapt  in  profound  admiration 
of  the  beautiful  panorama  that  was  passing  before  the 
eyes,  and  with  the  south  wind,  laden  with  those  delight 
ful  odors,  blowing  gently  across  the  face,  to  thoroughly 
appreciate  it.  For  every  turn  of  the  now  winding  river 
disclosed  new  beauties  for  enjoyment. 

At  first  the  brain  is  confused  with  the  multiplicity 
of  objects  that  are  presented  to  the  gaze.  Gradually, 
however,  the  eye  becomes  accustomed  to  the  mass  of 
green,  and  selects  objects  of  greater  interest  from  the 
whole.  From  the  exuberant  growth  of  creepers  and 
shrubs  which  line  the  water's  edge,  the  attention  is 
drawn  to  the  gray,  straight  trunks  of  the  palmettos, 
with  their  stiff  fan-like  fronds.  The  dark  green  of 
these  is  relieved  by  the  paler  foliage  of  the  sweet  gum, 
while  high  over  all  hang  the  giant  branches  of  the  lofty 
black  walnuts  drooped  with  festoons  of  Spanish  moss. 
Large  bunches  of  the  emblematic  mistletoe  are  brought 
out  in  strong  relief  against  the  blue  sky,  with  their 
bright  green  colors  heightened  by  their  more  sombre 
surroundings.  An  occasional  group  of  the  gloomy 


BIRD'S-EYE  GLANCE  AT  FLORIDA.  21 

cypress  might  be  seen  among  this  sea  "of  living  green, 
raising  their  dark  trunks  covered  with  leafless  branches 
from  the  swampy  ground.  As  we  passed  onward  our 
attention  was  attracted  by  numerous  orange  groves, 
which  were  growing  upon  shell  mounds,  with  the  golden 
fruit  relieved  by  the  dark  green  and  shining  leaves. 
This  scene  was  rendered  intensely  interesting  by  the 
multitude  of  birds  which  swarmed  on  all  sides.  Numer 
ous  ducks  and  gallinules  swam  among  the  aquatic  plants 
on  the  river's  margin.  At  one  point  we  saw  a  group  of 
red  and  black-headed  vultures  feeding  upon  the  carcass 
of  some  animal.  Large  numbers  of  wood  ducks  started 
up  everywhere,  flying  but  a  short  distance,  then  tamely 
settling  down  again.  Among  all  this  apparently  peace 
ful  life  the  great  law  of  nature,  which  ordains  that  her 
subjects  shall  live  by  preying  upon  one  another,  was  in 
full  force.  At  every  few  rods  along  the  river  was 
perched  a  hawk.  They  sat  silent  and  apathetic,  but 
were  only  waiting  for  the  coots  and  ducks  to  finish  their 
morning  meal  of  aquatic  life  before  seizing  the  plumpest 
of  them  for  breakfast.  High  overhead  the  osprey  was 
sailing  with  motionless  wings,  in  huge  circles,  gazing 
with  eager  eyes  upon  the  fishes  below.  The  ever-watch 
ful  bald  eagle  was  perched  upon  the  lofty  black  walnuts 
or  cypresses,  intent  upon  the  motions  of  the  fish-hawk. 
This  magnificent  scenery,  in  which  is  mingled  so  much 
of  life  and  animation,  must  attract  the  attention  and 
call  forth  the  admiration  of  the  most  casual  observer. 
What,  then,  must  be  the  sensations  of  the  earnest  stu 
dent  of  nature  ?  Words  fail  to  express  the  intense 
ecstasy  that  he  feels  as  object  after  object  presents  itself 
to  his  bewildered  gaze.  The  brain  is  completely  over 
whelmed,  and  can  simply  grasp  the  mingled  mass  as  it 


22  BIRD'S-EYE  GLANCE  AT  FLORIDA. 

is  seen,  and  in  calmer  moments  arrange  each  in  its 
proper  place. 

The  sun  had  now  reached  a  considerable  height,  and 
was  shining  hotly  on  the  water.  The  captain  of  the 
steamer  informed  us  that  we  might  as  well  be  on  the 
look-out  for  alligators.  About  a  dozen  among  the  pas 
sengers  produced  rifles  or  shot-guns,  and  we  took  our 
stations  on  the  upper  deck.  As  we  stood  near  the 
wheel-house  an  old  negro,  who  was  steering,  exclaimed, 
"  See,  dar's  one  !"  at  the  same  time  pointing  toward  a 
large  object.  His  words  were  followed  by  the  sharp 
crack  of  half  a  dozen  rifles,  and  as  many  voices  excitedly 
shouted,  "I  have  killed  him."  But  the  loud  laugh 
from  some  of  the  experienced  hunters,  and  a  broad  grin 
on  the  black  face  of  the  pilot,  told  these  amateurs  that 
they  had  been  sold.  Their  bullets  had  merely  set  free 
the  gases  contained  in  the  carcass  of  a  dead  alligator. 

A  short  distance  beyond  this  point  we  saw  a  flock  of 
about  twenty  wild  turkeys  on  the  river  bank.  They 
were  beneath  some  orange  trees,  and  were  very  tame. 
As  we  came  in  sight  of  them  there  was  a  simultaneous 
discharge  of  fire-arms  ;  but  in  the  excitement  of  the 
moment  it  was  entirely  without  effect.  The  turkeys 
scattered  right  and  left,  and  were  soon  lost  in  the  thick 
underbrush.  Soon  after  this  the  alligators  became  quite 
numerous,  and  the  deck  of  the  steamer  presented  an 
animated  scene,  resounding  with  the  sharp  crack  of 
rifles.  The  hideous  reptiles  were  in  all  positions  ;  some 
were  sleeping  on  the  banks,  others  half  in  the  water,  and 
some  were  swimming  swiftly  about  with  only  their  ugly 
snouts  and  repulsive-looking  eyes  visible.  Sometimes 
one  would  roll  over  in  his  death  agony,  after  receiving  a 
single  shot.  Then  the  attention  of  the  whole  party 


BIRD'S-EYE  GLAKCE  AT  FLORIDA.  23 

would  be  turned  to  one  individual,  and  lie  would  escape 
beneath  the  water,  pierced  with  a  dozen  balls.  They 
would  die  in  all  positions  ;  some  would  turn  over  upon 
their  backs,  but  of  tener  they  would  lie  as  they  had  been 
shot.  The  most  fatal  place  for  a  ball  to  strike  appeared 
to  be  in  the  head.  The  report  that  a  rifle  bullet  will 
glance  from  the  back  of  an  alligator  is  entirely  un 
founded.  I  have  seen  them  shot  in  every  part  of  the 
body,  and  have  yet  to  meet  with  a  single  instance  of  the 
kind.  The  ball  always  penetrates  easily  if  thrown  with 
ordinary  force.  Many  of  these  reptiles  are  destroyed  by 
the  passengers  of  every  steamboat  which  passes  up  and 
down  the  river,  yet  their  numbers  are  scarcely  dimin 
ished.  The  alligator  grows  to  a  large  size,  some  measur 
ing  seventeen  feet  in  length.  The  large  ones  are  quite 
dangerous,  but  a  closely  allied  species — the  cayman,  of 
South  America,  Avhich  is  occasionally  found  in  Florida 
— is  particularly  noticable  for  its  fierceness.  I  have  met 
with  it  but  once. 

Three  of  us  were  crossing  the  country  which  lies 
between  Lake  Harney  and  Indian  river,  on  foot,  when 
we  came  to  a  dense  swamp.  As  we  were  passing 
through  it  we  discovered  a  huge  reptile,  which  resem 
bled  an  alligator,  lying  in  a  stream  just  to  the  right  of 
our  path.  He  was  apparently  asleep.  We  approached 
cautiously  within  ten  rods  of  him  and  fired  two  rifle 
shots  in  quick  succession.  The  balls  took  effect  just 
before  his  fore  leg,  and  striking  within  two  inches  of 
each  other,  passed  entirely  through  his  body.  As  soon 
as  he  felt  the  wounds  he  struggled  violently,  twisting 
and  writhing,  but  finally  became  quiet.  We  waded  in 
and  approached  him,  as  he  lay  on  a  bed  of  green  aquatic 


24 

plants  with  his  head  toward  us.  It  was  resting  on  the 
mud,  and  one  of  the  party  was  about  to  place  his  foot 
upon  it,  when  a  lively  look  in  the  animal's  eyes  deterred 
him.  Stooping  down,  he  picked  up  a  floating  branch 
and  lightly  threw  it  in  the  reptile's  face.  The  result 
was  somewhat  surprising.  The  huge  jaws  opened 
instantly,  and  the  formidable  tail  came  round  sweeping 
the  branch  into  his  mouth,  where  it  was  crushed  and 
ground  to  atoms  by  the  rows  of  sharp  teeth.  His  eyes 
flashed  fire  and  he  rapidly  glided  forward.  Never  did 
magician  of  Arabian  tale  conjure  up  a  fiercer  looking 
demon  by  wave  of  his  wand,  than  had  been  raised  to  life 
by  a  motion  of  the  branch.  For  a  moment  we  were  too 
astonished  to  move.  The  huge  monster  seemed  bent  on 
revenge,  and  in  another  instant  would  be  upon  us.  We 
then  saw  our  danger,  and  quicker  than  a  flash  of  light, 
thought  and  action  came.  The  next  moment  the  gigan 
tic  saurian  was  made  to  struggle  on  his  back,  with  a 
bullet  in  his  brain.  It  had  entered  his  right  eye,  and 
had  been  aimed  so  nicely  as  not  to  cut  the  lids.  To 
make  sure  of  him  this  time  we  severed  his  jugular  vein. 
While  performing  this  not  very  delicate  operation,  ho 
thrust  out  two  singular-looking  glands  from  slits  in  his 
throat.  They  were  round  and  resembled  a  sea-urchin, 
being  covered  with  minute  projections.  They  were 
about  the  size  of  a  nutmeg,  and  gave  out  a  strong  musky 
odor.  We  then  took  his  dimensions,  and  found  that  he 
was  over  ten  feet  in  length,  while  his  body  was  larger 
round  than  a  flour  barrel.  The  immense  jaws  were 
three  feet  long,  and  when  stretched  open,  would  readily 
take  in  the  body  of  a  man.  They  were  armed  with  rows 
of  sharp  white  teeth.  The  tusks  of  the  lower  one,  when 


BIRD'S-EYE  GLAKCE  AT  FLORIDA.  25 

it  was  closed,  projected  out  through  two  holes  in  the 
upper,  which  fact  proved  to  us  that  it  was  not  a  com 
mon  alligator,  but  a  true  crocodile  (Crocodilus  acurus). 
This  is  the  second  instance  on  record  of  the  capture  of 
this  reptile  in  the  United  States. 

C.  J.  MAYKARD. 


II. 

OUTFIT  FOR  SPORTSMEN". 

IN  preparing  for  a  winter's  campaign  in  Florida,  one 
should  take  with  him,  if  practicable,  a  tent  and 
small  boat.  If  they  can  be  shipped  by  sailing  vessel  two 
weeks  in  advance  of  his  sailing,  they  will  reach  Jack 
sonville  in  season  for  use,  and  at  little  cost.  If  sent  by 
steamer  the  charge  for  freight  will  be  enormous.  A  shot 
gun,  rifle,  ammunition,  and  fishing  tackle  should  be 
taken  from  the  North.  The  tent  should  be  as  light  as 
possible,  and  so  constructed  that  all  the  room  can  be 
utilized.  The  boat  should  be  small,  flat-bottomed  and 
light.  A  large  sail  boat  can  be  hired  in  Jacksonville  at 
a  reasonable  price,  and  a  man  to  sail  it  and  do  the  cook 
ing.  Gun  and  rifle  should  be  breech-loading,  thus 
securing  safety  and  despatch  in  loading.  Revolvers  may 
be  useful.  Big  bowie  knives  are  superfluities.  Every 
body  takes  them,  and  everybody  finds  them  in  the  way. 
Wear  old  clothes  ;  half  the  pleasure  in  camping  out  is 
to  be  able  to  rough  it.  Don't  put  on  fancy  costumes 
expecting  to  "make  a  spread,"  as  no  one  will  appreciate 
the  effort  or  effect.  Wear  woollen  clothing  at  all  times. 
For  the  feet,  take  good  stout  shoes,  lacing  up  tightly 
about  the  ankle.  A  pair  of  tight  (not  tight  fitting) 
boots,  may  be  very  good  for  a  short,  wet  walk,  but  for 
an  all-day's  tram}),  through  swamp  and  pine-woods, 


OUTFIT   FOR   SPORTSMEN.  27 

shoos  are  far  superior.  Two  pairs  good  woollen,  and  one 
rubber  blanket.  A  mosquito  bar  is  indispensable,  as 
many  nights  the  tormenting  insects  call  their  own.  If 
the  country  on  the  coast  be  visited,  the  "  bar  "  should 
be  made  of  thin  cotton  or  lawn,  to  keep  out  the  "sand- 
flies,"  insects  so  small  as  hardly  to  be  discernible,  but 
with  a  bite  like  the  burn  of  a  hot  iron,.  It  would  be 
well  to  take  a  little  salve  and  thin  plaster  for  cuts  and 
bruises.  In  the  line  of  medicine,  one  can  take  a  whole 
apothecary's  shop,  if  so  disposed,  but,  excepting  a  little 
whiskey  and  quinine,  the  former  for  snake-bites,  which 
seldom  occur,  and  the  latter  for  imaginary  fever,  no  med 
icine  will  be  needed,  except  for  particularly  squeamish 
folks  who  think  life  not  worth  the  living  out  of  sight 
of  an  "K,"  or  quack-doctor's  laboratory.  For  light  at 
night,  a  lantern  and  candles  will  be  sufficient,  though  ker 
osene,  where  little  transportation  is  to  be  made,  is  pref 
erable.  Buy  it  in  New  York  in  five-gallon  can,  boxed. 
It  will  always  sell  for  twice  its  cost.  The  keen,  bracing 
air  gives  more  pungency  to  a  haunch  of  venison  or  brace 
of  quail  than  all  the  sauces-piquante  ever  concocted.  A 
bunch  of  Spanish  moss  is  infinitely  superior  to  a  napkin, 
and  the  clear  waters  of  some  spring  to  the  finger-bowl. 
And  here  a  word  as  to  wrater. 

Nearly  all  the  water  in  East  Florida  is  impregnated 
more  or  less  with  lime,  or  some  mineral  or  salt  that  gives 
it  a  "  flat "  taste  to  the  uninitiated,  and  a  drink  of  raw 
unadulterated  water  is  not  always  acceptable.  Some 
people  "  qualify "  it — indeed  the  majority  of  settlers 
"qualify  "  it  so  much  that  the  original  taste  of  the  aqua 
is  lost  in  that  of  the  qualifier.  That  is  all — a  word  to 
the  wise.  We  advise  a  plain  mode  of  living.  Take  hard- 
bread,  "self-raising  flour,"  pork,  salt,  potatoes,  brown 


28  OUTFIT    FOIl    SPOKTSMEX. 

sugar,  rice  or  hominy,  Borden's  condensed  milk,  and 
coffee,  a  little  jelly  for  venison,  butter,  pepper,  and 
mustard.  Venison,  fish,  and  game  birds  may  be  on  the 
bill  of  fare  every  day,  but  again  they  may  not.  No  one 
should  start  down  the  river  depending  upon  a  supply,  as 
the  game  is  regulated  and  controlled  by  a  multitude  of 
laws  that  the  visitor  knows  nothing  about.  Preserved 
fruits,  meats,  etc.,  are  not  necessary,  though  sometimes 
found  acceptable — they  don't  stay  in  camp  long.  Re 
garding  cooking  utensils,  if  cooking  is  to  be  done  in  the 
usual  way  over  an  open  fire,  they  should  be  a  "  bake 
kettle  "  or  oven,  a  foot  in  diameter  ;  frying-pan,  same 
dimensions,  with  a  long  handle  ;  tin  plate,  plated  knives 
and  forks,  pint  tin-cups,  iron  or  tin  spoons,  and  butcher 
knife.  A  regular  camp  kit  is  preferable,  however.* 
If  a  stove  is  preferred,  go  to  the  tin-smith's  and  have 
him  make  a  sheet-iron  box,  two  feet  long,  one  broad, 
open  at  one  end.  The  door  a  sheet  of  iron,  to  slide  in  a 
groove,  perpendicularly,  acting  as  a  draught  regulator. 
The  legs  should  be  flat,  fastened  to  the  box  by  hinges, 
shutting  under  it  when  packed.  The  pipe  small,  and  in 
joints,  to  be  packed  in  the  stove.  A  piece  of  tin  should 
be  taken  to  fasten  to  the  tent  to  run  the  pipe  through. 
AVitli  a  such  stove,  well  supplied  with  "  light  wood  "  or 
pitch  pine,  a  fire  can  be  sustained  that  will  vacate  the  tent 
in  short  metre.  If  the  camper-out  prefers  to  embark 
upon  one  of  the  many  steamers  that  navigate  the  St. 

*  II.  L.  Duncklee  of  Boston,  manufactures  a  very  complete 
ramp  stove  and  kit,  which  packs  into  a  small  space  and  is  quite 
portable.  Lalance  &  Grosjean,  of  Beekman  street,  New  York, 
supply  a  very  desirable  kit  also.  A  camp-kettle  made  by  a  firm 
in  Marquette,  Michigan,  is  much  used  by  the  lumbermen,  and  is 
regarded  as  an  acquisition  to  a  sportsman's  outfit. 


OUTFIT   FOR   SPORTSMEN.  29 

John's,  lie  can  reach  any  point  available  in  East  Florida. 
To  assist  him,  a  list  of  prices  will  be  given  to  the  differ 
ent  places  on  the  river,  as  they  are  reached  in  a  sail 
down  the  stream.  The  steamers  City  Point,  Dictator, 
Nick  King,  and  Lizzie  Baker  make  the  trips  to  Pilatka 
seventy- five  miles  from  Jacksonville),  upon  arrival  from 
Savannah  and  Charleston.  The  Florence,  a  fine  steamer ; 
makes  daily  trips  to  Pilatka.  The  Darlington,  Hattie, 
and  Starlight,  to  Enterprise,  two  hundred  miles,  twice 
a  week,  each.  The  Ocklawaha  and  Silver  Springs  to 
Lake  Harney  and  Salt  Lake,  one  week. 


III. 

HINTS  FOR  SOUTHERN  HUNTING. 


Gulf  States,  with  woodland  in  unlimited  areas, 
JL  with  broad  rivers  of  fresh  water  and  estuaries 
without  end,  with  open  sea  beaches  and  rocky  coral 
harbors,  invite  Northern  hunters  ;  and  if  perchance  he 
meets  the  Southrons  in  their  homes,  or  at  their  camps, 
a  new  and  congenial  companionship  is  assured,  that 
once  enjoyed  will  not  fade  from  memory,  for  Southern 
welcomes  are  as  broad  as  Southern  fields,  and  as  full  of 
sunshine. 

In  going  far  from  home  there  is  usually  an  inclination 
to  carry  many  articles  of  impedimenta  that  are  found 
not  to  repay  the  annoyance  of  their  care.  "\Ve  will  not 
counsel  those  who  would  go  with  much  "duffel,"  as  the 
guides  term  luggage  :  they  will  suit  their  own  abundant 
fancy  ;  nor  will  we  hint  to  the  luxurious  yachtsman  how 
to  store  his  lockers  with  dainties,  although  pleasant 
memories  recall  the  way  it  has  been  bountifully  done, 
but  will  venture  on  a  few  simple  suggestions  that  may 
be  of  some  value  to  persons  going  South. 

First  and  foremost,  as  to  guns  :  For  all  but  boat 
shooting,  guns  to  lie  used  under  the  hot  sun  that,  even 
in  winter,  falls  on  the  Southern  fields  with  a  fierce  heat, 
should  be  light,  and  not  of  too  large  bore,  to  economize 
weight  of  ammunition.  A  riile  should  be  short,  and 
one  chosen  that  will  in  opening  be  free  from  long  levers 


HINTS   FOE  SOUTHERN  HUNTING.  31 

that  may  catch  in  bridle  reins,  will  avoid  annoyance.  For 
alligators,  the  Mead  explosive  ball  is  unequalled,  and  its 
use  increases  very  materially  the  chances  of  so  shocking 
and  stunning  those  tenacious  animals,  as  to  recover 
them  at  once.  As  they  lie  on  logs,  and  on  slimy  banks, 
they  usually  retain  life  enough  to  wriggle  into  the  water, 
when  they  sink  ;  but  we  have  shot  them  with  the  Mead 
bullet,  and  have  seen  them  dash  out  upon  the  land,  and 
be  unable  to  get  any  command  of  their  movements.  All 
the  talk  of  a  ball  glancing  harmlessly  from  their  scales 
may  have  been  true  years  ago,  but  the  modern  rifle 
carries  its  missiles  through  the  scales  and  skull,  and 
penetrates  any  part  of  the  animal,  even  at  a  long  range. 
For  all  but  "  'gaitor,"  the  shot  gun  is  the  convenient 
arm.  Deer  are  usually  "  jumped "  and  shot  bounding 
through  the  large  leaves  of  the  low  palmetto,  and  at  all 
times  one  load  of  fine  shot  is  needed  for  quail,  snipe,  and 
plumaged  birds,  that  are  constantly  fluttering  up. 

Wild  turkeys  are  hard  to  kill,  but  often  an  expert 
caller  will  bring  them  so  near  that  missing  is  needless, 
and  the  use  of  a  wire  cartridge  of  large  shot  in  one  barrel 
will  do  all  that  can  be  done  to  insure  success  in  getting 
this  superb  bird,  which  is  a  far  finer  trophy,  and  more 
difficult  to  obtain  than  any  that  tempts  the  sportsman 
from  his  camp  while  the  day  has  not  dawned.  The 
hen  turkey  should  never  be  shot  (she  can  be  readily 
distinguished  by  her  color),  as  the  broods  will  at  once 
disperse  and  thus  deprive  the  sportsman  of  his  pastime. 
Quail  should  not  be  shot  after  the  1st  of  March. 

No  dainty  split  bamboo  rods,  nor  leaders  of  tinted 
gut  need  be  carried  south  of  the  mountains  of  Carolina ; 
for  the  trout,  grayling,  and  salmo  salar  live  not  in  the 
streams  that  bear  away  the  washings  from  rich  mellow 


32  HIXTS  FOR  SOUTHERN   HUNTING. 

bottom  lands.  The  trout  of  these  rivers  is  a  black  bass, 
and  when  gar-fish,  cat-fish  and  other  heavy-mouthed 
fellows  try  physical  force  with  the  angler,  artful  devices 
are  not  called  for ;  but  one  or  two  stiff  boat  rods,  all 
the  better  if  in  pairs  with  all  the  joints  interchangeable, 
and  some  large  lines,  gimp  and  wire-mounted  hooks, 
strong  spoons,  a  gaff  and  one  or  two  spears  for  torch 
fishing,  and  some  ponderous  sinkers  for  tide-ways,  will 
fit  the  fisherman  for  all  ordinary  work.  If  he  wishes  a 
new  sensation,  it  may  be  obtained  at  the  end  of  a  half- 
inch  rope,  with  shark  hook  and  chain,  but  beware  of 
any  coil  about  the  legs,  and  get  up  anchor  for  a  tow 
seaward,  if  a  large  shark  or  swordfish  accepts  the 
challenge. 

About  Anastasia  Island,  St.  Augustine,  the  Minor- 
cans  capture  huge  swordfish  and  sharks  by  fastening 
the  rope  to  a  post,  and  carrying  the  hook  out  in  a  boat, 
leave  it,  and  retire  to  conduct  their  share  of  the  conflict 
on  terra  firma.  A  boat  is  as  needful  in  Florida  as  a 
horse  on  the  plains.  For  short  trips  from  the  settle 
ments,  nothing  will  be  more  convenient,  and  render  the 
sportsman  more  independent,  than  a  flat-bottomed  boat, 
with  small  sail,  centre  board,  and  a  water-tight  end  with 
tight  trap  to  carry  dry  clothing,  tea,  sugar,  etc.,  to 
protect  from  the  frequent  showers.  Floating  quietly 
with  the  current  or  tide,  a  patient  hunter  may  surprise 
almost  all  the  game  birds  and  animals,  and  he  will  see 
more  of  interest  in  the  little  streams  than  in  miles  of 
the  frequented  channels.  For  exploration  and  travel  a 
boat  eighteen  to  twenty-two  feet  long,  four  and  a-half 
or  five  feet  beam,  with  the  full  width  carried  to  the 
stern,  built  with  a  flat  keel,  and  broad  bearings  to 
insure  light  draft,  fitted  with  centre-board  and  sail,  the 


HINTS   FOR   SOUTHERN"   HUNTING.  33 

Litter  on  sliding  topmast  for  compactness,  will  be  found 
the  best.  When  anchored,  the  bow  will  point  to  the 
wind.  A  tent,  open  aft,  may  be  hung  under  the  boom, 
spread  with  stretchers,  and  furled  sail  ;  and  with  light 
boards  a  bed  for  three  or  four  may  be  arranged,  and 
cooking  by  spirit  lamp  be  done  at  the  wide  stern. 
With  such  a  boat,  and  two  good  negroes,  boatmen 
(cooks  they  generally  are),  more  interesting  trips  can  be 
made  than  with  a  yacht,  and  more  unfrequented  points 
be  reached.  If  cruising  in  the  wide  waters  is  intended, 
some  considerable  shear  to  the  bow  lines  will  make  a 
drier  and  safer  boat,  and  a  canvas  bow  deck  will  do 
good  service.  Air  cushions  will  be  found  very  comfort 
able,  and  in  mishaps  they  are  invaluable  as  life- 
preservers. 

One  of  H.  L.  Puncklee's  stoves  will  fit  out  such  a 
party,  but  a  spirit  lamp  is  very  useful  to  heat  water  for 
a  preventive  punch,  or  for  a  bowl  of  soup  from  Liebig's 
extract  of  beef,  and  with  it  and  an  Old  Dominion  coffee 
pot,  excellent  hot  coffee  may  be  made,  or  Borden's  Ex 
tract  will  give  it  more  simply.  Often  for  miles  no  hard 
ground  is  to  be  found,  and  some  heating  apparatus  is 
indispensable.  No  one  should  brave  the  night  air  of 
the  everglades  without  warm  and  stimulating  food  and 
drinks,  and  a  little  quinine  will  do  no  harm.  Light 
wines  are  of  great  service,  and  the  water  flowing  from 
the  swamps  will  not  harmed  by  a  "  wee  drop,"  and  for 
the  rattlesnake  or  moccasin  bite  that  never  comes,  the 
same  is  needful.  Prudent  ones  usually  do  not  wait  for 
a  bite,  but  show  unbounded  confidence  in  preventive 
measures. 

For  sleeping  in  camp,  in  this  animated  land  of  fleas, 
spiders,  and  the  creeping  things,  so  unfortunately  taken 


34  HINTS   FOR   SOUTHERN   HUNTING. 

into  the  ark,  a  hammock  should  be  used ;  one  arranged 
(as  it  may  easily  be),  with  a  light  canvas  roof,  with  sides 
of  netting.  Two  or  three  rafter-shaped  triangles  hung 
on  a  line  will  spread  such  a  shelter,  and  in  a  canvas 
hammock  under  it,  one  can  rest  free  from  the  compan 
ionship  of  guides  and  dogs,  and  without  vivid  ideas  of 
snakes  and  centipedes.  Sportsmen  are  often  disabled 
by  the  fiercest  animal  in  Florida,  the  flea.  High  boots 
will  be  some  defence,  but  keep  away  from  the  vicinity 
of  domestic  animals,  and  sleep  not  in  any  of  the 
"  cracker  "  houses,  but  camp  in  remote  pine  woods  and 
keep  the  dogs  away  from  the  tent.  Such  forest  is  com 
paratively  free  from  mosquitoes,  and  in  mid-winter  the 
sand-flies  are  not  very  annoying. 

For  minor  details  the  hints  common  to  all  hunting 
will  afford  a  general  idea. 


IV. 


COASTWISE  ROUTES  OF  TRAVEL. 


is  approaching,  and  numbers  are  un- 
VV  doubtedly  looking  forward  with  pleasure  to  the 
period  when  they  will  leave  Old  Boreas  in  the  rear,  and 
bask  in  the  health-promoting  sunbeams  of  Florida  ;  and 
as  the  present  seems  an  opportune  time,  I  propose  fur 
nishing  a  few  statements  for  the  benefit  of  those  who 
contemplate  a  visit  to  this  State. 

As  the  south-west  coast  (the  scene  of  my  last  winter's 
wanderings)  presents  an  attractive  field  for  the  true 
sportsman,  I  shall  refer  to  it  in  this  communication.  I 
fancied  that  my  articles  published  in  the  "Forest  and 
Stream"  were  sufficiently  explanatory,  but  from  the 
large  number  of  letters  I  have  received,  I  find  that 
something  more  is  necessary,  and  I  shall  endeavor  to 
furnish  the  required  information. 

Steamships  leave  Boston  and  Baltimore  regularly  for 
Savannah.  Florida  can  also  be  reached  by  any  of  the 
various  rail  routes,  and  fares  can  be  ascertained  by 
inquiring  at  any  of  the  principal  offices.  Steamships 
leave  New  York  for  Charleston  three  times  weekly,  and 
from  Philadelphia  every  Saturday,  connecting  with  rail 
road,  and  with  the  stanch,  seaworthy,  comfortable,  and 
ably  officered  sea-going  steamers,  the  Dictator  and  City 
Point.  Fare  from  New  York  to  Jacksonville,  including 
state-room  and  meals,  $27.50  ;  excursion  ticket,  $50. 


3G  COASTWISE   ROUTES   OF   TRAVEL. 

Steamships  leave  New  York  for  Savannah  three 
times  weekly,  connecting  with  the  steamers  Dictator, 
City  Point,  and  Lizzie  Baker.  If  travellers  prefer  it, 
they  can  reach  Jacksonville  from  Savannah  by  the 
Atlantic  and  Gulf  railroad.  Coupons  of  excursion 
tickets  will  he  received  by  the  company.  Travellers  will 
find  this  road  supplied  with  excellent  Pullman  cars. 

Gelpcke's  line  from  New  York  to  Fernandina  consists 
of  the  well-known  steamships  Huntsville  and  Montgom 
ery.  The  rates  by  this  line  are  as  follows  :  New  York 
to  Fernandina,  $20,  excursion  ticket  $35  ;  New  York  to 
Jacksonville,  $22.50,  excursion  $40  ;  New  York  to 
Cedar  Keys,  82  G,  excursion  $45  ;  New  York  to  Tampa 
and  Manatee,  $3G  ;  New  York  to  Punta  Rassa,  rate  not 
received,  but  presume  about  $40  ;  New  York  to  Key 
West,  $4G. 

A  direct  line  to  Jacksonville  is  advertised,  but  we 
must  await  results  before  anything  definite  can  be  stated. 
Fare  to  Jacksonville  as  advertised,  $20,  excursion  ticket 
$35.  Jacksonville  or  Fernandina  reached,  the  sports 
man  can  take  railroad,  daily  except  Sunday,  for  Cedar 
Keys.  If  Ilomosassa  is  the  objective  point,  a  boat  can 
be  hired  at  from  eight  to  ten  dollars  for  the  trip,  or  if 
disposed,  the  intending  tourist  or  sportsman  can  com 
municate  with  Alfred  E.  Jones  at  Ilomosassa,  and  if 
timely  notice  is  given,  Mr.  Jones  would  meet  his 
guests  at  Cedar  Keys  and  land  them  at  his  attractive 
home,  free  of  charge.  The  only  difficulty  attending 
Hi  is  arrangement  is  the  fact,  that  there  is  but  one  mail 
per  week  to  Ilomosassa,  arriving  on  Mondays,  llomo- 
sassa  can  be  reached  by  another  route  :  Steamer  from 
Jacksonville  to  Silver  Spring,  a  natural  curiosity  that 
should  be  visited  by  every  tourist.  Hack  from  Silver 


COASTWISE   EOUTES   OF  TRAVEL.  37 

Spring  to  Ocala,  fare  one  dollar.  From  Ocala  to  Homo- 
sassa,  a  distance  of  thirty-six  miles,  over  a  good  road,  in 
comfortable  vehicle  ;  charge  for  carriage  from  eight  to 
twelve  dollars,  dependent  upon  number  of  passengers. 
Board  at  Homosassa,  from  ten  to  twelve  dollars  per 
week ;  accommodations  good,  table  excellent ;  fishing 
and  shooting  superior ;  and  we  may  add,  rooms  large 
and  airy  ;  verandas  spacious  ;  fresh  milk  and  butter  ; 
oysters  and  oranges  ad  libitum. 

Bronson,  a  point  on  the  Fernandina  and  Cedar  Keys 
railroad,  is  thirty  miles  from  Homosassa.  The  ponds 
in  the  neighborhood  afford  fine  bass  fishing ;  quail  and 
duck  are  plenty,  and  the  sportsman  may  succeed  in 
shooting  turkeys  or  deer.  Accommodations :  hotels, 
fifteen  dollars  ;  private  boarding  houses,  twelve  ;  board 
one  dollar  per  day,  or  five  dollars  per  week.  For  infor 
mation  interview  Mr.  G-.  Levet. 

With  the  exception  of  climate,  bathing,  and  fishing, 
Cedar  Keys  presents  but  few  attractions  for  tourists  or 
sportsmen.  We  regret  to  state  that  the  hotel  accom 
modations  cannot  be  recommended  as  Al.  Sportsmen 
arriving  at  Cedaj.'  Keys  and  requiring  information,  need 
but  call  upon  Mr.  Gore,  editor  of  the  local  paper,  or  on 
Willard  and  Roux,  and  mention  that  the  liberty  taken 
was  in  accordance  with  the  suggestion  of  "  Al  Fresco." 

The  steamer  Valley  City,  commanded  by  that  jolly 
sea-dog,  Captain  McKay,  leaves  Cedar  Keys  every  Fri 
day  for  Tampa,  Manatee,  Punta  Rassa,  and  Key  West. 
Parties  desirous  of  ascending  the  Caloosahatchie  river, 
or  of  spending  a  few  weeks  on  the  coast,  could  take 
steamer  to  Punta  Eassa,  and  from  there  ascend  the  river 
or  explore  Charlotte  Harbor.  For  'gaitor  shooting, 
ascend  the  Caloosahatchie  to  the  upper  islands,  six 


38  COASTWISE   ROUTES   OF   TRAVEL. 

miles  above  Fort  Myers,  and  thirty-one  from  Punta 
Rassa,  Above  the  islands  the  disciple  of  Old  Izaak  can 
put  in  all  his  spare  time  in  landing  cavalli  ranging  from 
five  to  fifteen  pounds.  For  fight  and  pluck  we  can  rec 
ommend  this  fish.  They  take  the  spoon  or  spinner 
without  hesitation,  and  we  are  of  the  opinion  that  they 
would  not  object  to  a  salmon  fly.  For  hunting  and  sea 
fishing  we  can  recommend  Tanibel,  Lacosta,  or  Gaspa- 
rilla  islands.  For  a  camping  place  for  the  invalid  who 
requires  a  bracing  sea  breeze,  an  equable  temperature, 
salt  bathing,  and  life-giving  sunbeams,  we  would  say 
camp  on  the  northern  end  of  Gasparilla  island.  The 
island  is  two  miles  in  length,  and  is  well  stocked  with 
deer.  At  the  entrance,  or  Little  Gasparilla  Pass,  the 
fishing  is  unequalled.  On  the  opposite  flats  beach  birds 
are  more  than  plentiful.  The  main  land  is  distant 
about  three  hundred  yards.  In  the  centre  of  the  island 
a  lagoon  with  excellent  water  will  be  found  ;  but  by  dig 
ging  a  hole  in  the  sand  (and  planting  an  empty  barrel 
in  it)  from  twenty  to  eighty  yards  from  the  bay  beach, 
fair  drinking  water  can  be  obtained  at  low  tide.  If  a 
party  landed  at  Punta  Rassa,  a  small  sloop  or  schooner 
could  be  chartered  to  transport  boat,  provisions,  and 
camp  equipage  to  camping  ground.  A  few  weeks  spent 
on  one  of  the  islands  in  Charlotte  Harbor  would  do 
much  to  restore  the  invalid.  Frosts  are  unknown ; 
north-casters  and  north- westers  lose  their  injurious  influ 
ences  before  reaching  these  favored  spots.  A  weekly 
mail  is  received  at  Punta  Rassa,  and  supplies  could  be 
obtained  through  Captain  McKay,  of  the  Valley  City. 
AVe  have  advised  parties  to  camp  on  the  end  of  the 
island,  for,  by  pursuing  this  course,  bushes  and  grass 
would  be  distant  some  hundred  yards,  and  in  conse- 


COASTWISE   ROUTES   OF  TRAVEL.  39 

quence  mosquitoes  would  not  prove  troublesome.  To 
intending  visitors  I  would  say,  secure  coast  survey  charts 
of  this  harbor,  two  in  number,  obtainable  at  any  large 
nautical  store. 

Returning  northward,  sportsmen  could  run  the  coast 
line  from   Little   Gasparilla  Inlet  to  Sarasota  Inlet,   a 
distance   of  thirty-eight  miles.      But  unless  they  are 
familiar  with  sailing,  and  know  how  to  pick  their  way 
between  bars,   and  keep  clear   of   breakers,  we   would 
advise  them  to  take  themselves  and  boat  on  board  the 
Valley  City  and  land  at  Tampa.     At  Tampa  they  would 
find  good  accommodations  by  calling  upon  Lieutenant 
Wall.      Leaving  Tampa  Bay,  with  its  islands  stocked 
with  deer,  and  every  inlet  furnishing  superior  fishing, 
they  would  reach  Clear  Water  Harbor  by  the  Indian 
Pass.     From  Clear  Water  Harbor  they  could  run  along 
within  two  or  three  miles  of  the  main  land  in  from  three 
to  five  feet  of  water.     A  barrier  reef  exists  from  five  to 
seven  miles  from  the  main  land,  and  owing  to  the  shal- 
lowness  of  the  water,  and  the  grassy  nature  of  the  bot 
tom,  the  water  is  smooth.     Bayous,  coves,   and  small 
bavs  will  be  found  in  numbers  along  the  coast  line,  and 
a  good  harbor   can   always  be  made.     The  voyageurs 
could  enter  and  examine  en  route  the   attractive  and 
beautiful  springs   at  the   heads  of  the   Wiccawatchee, 
Cheseowillski,  Homosassa,  and  Crystal  rivers.     During 
the  winter  months  the  gulf  is  usually  as  calm  as  a  mill- 
pond,  and  can  be  safely  navigated  with  a  seventeen-foot 
Whitehall  boat ;  but  for  the  purpose  of  navigating  shoal 
water  and   carrying  plunder,  we   would  recommend  a 
batteau,   such   as   is  used   on   the  Delaware   river.     If 
decked  over  and  supplied  with  a  centre-board  and  sail, 
such  a  craft  would  be  found  admirably  adapted  to  the 


40  COASTWISE    ROUTES    OF   TRAVEL. 

navigation  of  the  south-west.  Arrangements  could  be 
made  for  the  cheap  transportation  of  such  a  boat  from 
New  York  to  Cedar  Keys  by  the  New  York  and  Fer- 
nandina  line  of  steamers.  But  if  money  is  no  object,  I 
would  recommend  intending  sportsmen  to  secure  a  boat, 
with  sailing  master,  at  Cedar  Keys,  Tampa,  or  Manatee, 
at  an  expense  of  from  four  to  five  dollars  per  day.  But 
I  may  remark  that  many  of  the  boatmen  along  the  coast 
have  acquired  a  weakness,  and  if  peace  is  desired  the 
whiskey  bottle  must  be  kept  under  lock  and  key. 

"AL  FRESCO." 


V. 

GAME  ANIMALS  AND   BIRDS  OF  FLORIDA. 

THE  following  quadrupeds  and  birds  have  been  ob 
served  in  Eastern  Florida,  but  the  presence  of  the 
latter  is  only  noted  in  spring  and  winter ;  at  least  we 
have  received  no  account  of  the  fact  that  they  are 
regular  denizens.  The  quadrupeds  embrace  the  Felis 
concolor,  or  panther,  common  in  the  unsettled  part  of 
the  State  ;  the  Lynx  rufus,  also  abundant ;  the  Canis 
Lupus,  or  gray  wolf  (some  nearly  black),  is  rather 
scarce ;  the  Vulpus  Virginianus,  or  gray  fox,  is  abun 
dant,  also  the  Procyon  Lot  or,  or  raccoon,  the  Ursus 
Arctos,  or  common  bear,  and  the  Gariacus  Virginianus, 
or  Virginia  deer ;  this  is  of  a  very  small  size.  The 
Sciurus  niger,  or  Southern  fox  squirrel,  is  abundant, 
but  is  confined  to  pine  woods  ;  also  the  Sciurus  Caroli- 
nensis,  or  gray  squirrel,  which  is  very  tame.  The 
Lepus  sylcaticus,  or  gray  rabbit ;  the  Lepus  Palustris, 
or  marsh  rabbit,  and  the  Didelphys  Virginiana,  or 
opossum,  are  quite  common. 

The  birds  include  the  Meleagris  Gallopavo,  or  wild 
turkey,  which  is  very  numerous  ;  males  often  weigh 
twenty-five  pounds ;  females  six  to  ten  pounds ;  the 
Ortyx  Virginianus,  or  quail  ;  very  abundant ;  Squar- 
tarola  Helvetica,  or  black-billed  plover  ;  the  Charadrius 
Virginicus,  or  golden  plover  ;  the  jEgialitis  vocifcrus, 


42  GAME   ANIMALS   AND   BIRDS   OF   FLORIDA. 

or  killdce  plover ;  the  JEgialitis  Wilsoniiis,  or  Wilson 
plover,  and  the  ^EgiaUtis  mclodius,  or  piping  plover. 
The  plover  were  seen  only  in  spring.  The  Pliiloliela 
minor,  or  woodcock,  is  not  common,  but  the  Gctllinago 
Wilsoni,  or  snipe,  is.  The  latter  go  in  large  flocks  and 
cover  the  whole  country.  The  red-breasted  snipe  ;  the 
Symphemia  semipalmata,  or  willet;  the  Ganibetta  Fla- 
vipes,  or  yellow  legs  ;  the  Ganibetta  Melanolenca,  or 
greater  yellow  legs  ;  Simosa  Fedoa,  or  marbled  god- 
wits,  are  also  common.  The  Numenieus  Iludsonicus, 
or  Iludsonian  curlew,  and  the  Numenieus  Borealis,  or 
Esquimaux  curlew,  are  rare,  but  the  Numenieus  longi- 
rostris,  or  long-billed  curlew  ;  the  Ilimantopus  nigcrcollis 
or  black-necked  stilt ;  the  rails  and  gallinules,  and  the 
herons,  cranes,  and  ibis,  are  abundant ;  the  A  nnas 
boschas,  or  mallard,  is  very  abundant,  also  the  Annas 
obscura,  or  black  duck  ;  the  latter  duck  has  a  lighter 
color  ;  its  neck  is  more  like  a  female  mallard,  and  it  is 
said  to  breed  in  Florida.  The  Dafila  acuta,  or  pintail ; 
the  Ncttion  Carolinensis,  or  green  wingtail ;  the  Quer- 
quedula  Discors,  or  blue  wingtail  ;  the  Spatula  Cly- 
pcata  or  "Shoveller  ;"  the  Marcea  Americana,  or  bald- 
pate  ;  the  Aix  Sponsa,  or  wood  duck  ;  the  Fulcx  Mar  Ha, 
or  scaup  duck  ;  the  Aytliya  Americana,  or  red-head  ; 
the  Aytliya  Vallisneria,  or  canvas-back ;  the  Buce- 
pliala  albeola,  or  butter-ball  ;  the  Erismatura  rulida,  or 
ruddy  duck  ;  the  Bopliodytes  Cucullatus,  or  hooded 
merganser,  and  the  Canada  goose,  arc  all  abundant ; 
the  latter  especially  in  the  north-western  portion  of 
the  State. 

The  following-named  birds  are  found  in   the  Lake 
Okeechobec  region  : 

1.  Wilson's  thrush  ( Turdus  fusccsccns).     Saw  one 


GAME   ANIMALS   AND   BIRDS   OF   FLORIDA.  43 

specimen  on  Lookout  Island  ;  the  only  island  dry  enough 
to  afford  residence  to  birds  of  this  family. 

2.  Cat-bird  (Galeoscoptes  Carolinensis).     Upon   the 
eastern  shore,  saw  several  in  the  elderberry  thickets. 

3.  Blue-gray     gnat-catcher     (Polioptila     ccerulea). 
Abundant  in  the  boxwood  and  ash  on  the  eastern  shore. 

4.  Troglodytes  aedon  (common  wren).     Barely  seen. 

5.  Yellow   redpoll-warbler   (Dendroeca  palmarum). 
The   most   abundant  species   of  the   warblers  here  as 
elsewhere. 

6.  Yellow-crowned  warbler    (Dendroeca    coronata). 
This  species  seemed  to  delight  in  the  maple  swamps, 
and   where  those   trees   were   interspersed   among    the 
cypress,  these  beautiful  little  birds  were  to  be  found  ; 
comparatively  abundant. 

7.  Maryland     yellow    throat    (Geotlilypis    triclias). 
Rarely  seen  in   the   marshy   hammocks  bordering  the 
shore. 

8.  White-bellied     swallow     (Tacliycineta     Ucolor). 
Numerous  ;  flocks   of  them  were  seen  flying  over  the 
marshes  near  Kissimmee  Bay  and  along  the  western  shore. 

9.  The    purple   martin   (Progne  purpured).      Was 
abundant  in  the  pine  woods  near  the  Kissimmee  above, 
though  none  were  seen  near  the  lake. 

10.  White-eyed  vireo  ( Vireo  noveboracensis).     Com 
mon  in  the  cypress  belt,  wherever  there  was  a  thick 
undergrowth.     Its  peculiar  note  was  the  one  most  fre 
quently  heard. 

11.  Savannah  sparrow  (Passerculus  savanna).     Not 
numerous. 

12.  Cardinal    bird   (Cardinalis    Virginianus).     We 
missed  the  pleasing  song  of  this  bright  songster  as  soon 
as  we  left  the  live-oaks  upon  the  Kissimmee,  but  after  we 


44  GAME   ANIMALS   AXD   BIRDS   OF   FLORIDA. 

had  emerged  from  the  desolate  marshes  and  gained  the 
first  maple  island  their  notes  fell  upon  our  ears ;  not 
numerous. 

13.  "Chewink"  (Pipilo  erytlirophthalmus).     Upon 
the  Kissimmee  I  saw  them  in  abundance,  and  a  few  upon 
the  dry  sand  of  Lookout  Island,  scratching  among  the 
dead  leaves.     I  also  detected  the  local  variety,  or  species, 
discovered  by  Mr.   Maynard  on  the   St.  Johns,  having 
the  iris  white  instead  of  hazel. 

14.  Cow  black-bird   (Molothrus  pecoris).      Not    so 
numerous  as  the  red-wing. 

15.  Red-winged     blackbird     (Agelwus    pliceniceus). 
Very  abundant.     Everywhere  seen  in  the  marshes,  en 
livening  us  with  their  presence  and  song. 

1C.  Meadow  lark  (Sturnella  ludovicianci).  The  pine 
woods  near  the  Kissimmee  contained  this  species  in 
abundance,  but  none  were  observed  near  the  lake,  owing 
to  the  swampy  character  of  the  shore. 

17.  Purple    grakle    (Quiscalus    purpureus).     Very 
numerous,  this  and  the  Florida  species,  Q.  laritus. 

18.  Boat-tail  grakle  (Quiscalus  major}.     Extremely 
abundant,  associating  in  flocks  with  the  red-wings  and 
purple  grakles. 

19.  Common  crow  (Corvus  Amcricanus).     Very  few 
seen. 

20.  Fish  crow  (Corvus  ossefragus).     Abundant  eve 
rywhere  ;  made  sad  havoc  with  the  eggs  in  heron  rook 
eries  wherever  we  landed. 

21.  Blue  jay  (Cyanurus  cristatus).     None  seen  ;  few 
heard  on  the  east  shore. 

22.  Pewee  (ftayorius  fuscus).     Very  few  seen  in  the 
larger  hammocks, 


GAME   ANIMALS   AND   BIRDS   OF   FLORIDA.  45 

23.  Kingfisher  (Ceryle  alcyon}.    Comparatively  abun 
dant  along  the  Kissimmee  and  all  sides  of  the  lake. 

24.  Chuckwill's  widow  (Antrostomus  Carolinensis).  A 
few  heard  at  the  deserted  Indian  village  on  the  east  shore. 

25.  Ivory  bill  woodpecker  (Picusprincipalis).     None 
satisfactorily  identified,  though  I  caught  a  glimpse  of 
several  which  I  then  thought  to  be  this  species. 

26.  Pileated     woodpecker     (Hylotomus     pileatus). 
Abundant ;  its  noisy,  rattling  note  could  be  heard  in 
all  the  cypress  belts. 

27.  Red-bellied  woodpecker    (Centurus  Carolinas). 
Numerous  ;  the  most  abundant  of  the  picidca  here,  as 
well  as  all  over  Florida. 

28.  Golden-winged  woodpecker,  (Golaptes  auratus). 
Not  numerous. 

29.  Paroquet  (Conurus    Carolinensis).     Few  flocks 
seen.     Along  the  upper  portion   of  our   route  on  the 
Kissimmee  they  were  abundant.     I  think  they  breed  in 
the  cypress  belt  of  the  east  shore. 

30.  Turkey  vulture  (Cathartes  aura).     Seen  every 
where  sailing  high  over  the  lake,  or  suddenly  flapping 
out  of  some  thick  cypress. 

31.  Black  vulture   (Cathartes  atratus).     Rare. 

32.  Caracara   eagle  (Polyborus  Brasiliensis).     Not 
numerous.     Regarding  this  species,  and  the  sacred  vul 
ture  of  Bartram,  I  shall  have  some  notes  in   a  future 
number. 

33.  Falco    sparrerius,    (sparrow-hawk).     Abundant 
along  the  Kissimmee  ;  rare  on  the  lake. 

34.  Buteo   lineatus    (red-shouldered    hawk).     Most 
numerous  species,   having  young  in  nearly  every  large 
collection  of  trees. 

35.  Fish-hawk     (Pandion     lialietus).     Everywhere 


46  GAME   AXIMALS   AXI)   BIRDS   OP   FLORIDA. 

abundant  in  the  lake.  None  of  the  white-headed  eagle 
were  seen  in  the  whole  trip,  though  the  osprey  had  nests 
everywhere. 

36.  Barred  owl  (Symium  tiebulosum).     Numerous ; 
young  found  a  week    old.     Its  hootings  filled  the  air 
every  night. 

37.  Great  horned    owl    (Bubo    Virginianus).     Saw 
none,  but  heard  several. 

38.  Wild   turkey  (Meleagris  gallopavo).     The  shore 
of  the  lake   is  not  suited  to  the  habits  of  the  turkey, 
though  we  saw  feathers  at  the  old  Indian  camps,  pro 
bably  brought  there  from  the  hammocks  above  on  the 
Kissimmee,  where  it  is  comparatively  abundant. 

39.  Quail  (Ortyx   Virginianus).     None  seen  on  the 
lake,  though  bevies  met  with  above. 

40.  Killdee  plover  (^Egialitis  vociferus).     Abundant 
on  the  Kissimmee  ;  none  seen  on  the  lake. 

41.  Snipe  (Gallinago   Wilsoni).     Abundant  on  Kis 
simmee. 

42.  Yellow-legs  (Gamlctta  flavi^^es).     Very  numer 
ous  on  the  Kissimmee. 

43.  Red-breasted     snipe    {Macrorliamplms  griseus). 
Abundant  at  the  ford  on  the  Kissimmee. 

44.  Sand-hill  crane    (Grus    Canadensis).     But   one 
seen  on  Okcechobee  ;  abundant  on  the  prairie    of  the 
Kissimmee. 

45.  Clapper  rail  (Rallus   crepitans).     Many  heard ; 
none  seen. 

46.  Purple  gallinule   (GalUnula    Martinica).     Not 
numerous  ;  in  the  lily  pads  of  the  lake  border. 

47.  Coot  (Fidica  Americana).     Abundant. 

48.  Louisiana  heron  (Dcmigretta  hidoviciana).     Not 
very  abundant. 


GAME   ANIMALS   AND   BIRDS   OF   FLORIDA.  47 

49.  Snowy    heron    (Garzetta    candidissima).      Not 
numerous. 

50.  White  heron  (Herodias  egretta).     Very  numer 
ous.     Along  the  river  and  in  several  places  in  the  lake 
I   found   them   breeding  in  large  numbers.     The  eggs 
were  laid  about  February  15th  and  20th  ;  no  young  then 
hatched. 

51.  Great  blue  heron  (Ardea  herodias).     Abundant ; 
not  near  so  many  as  of  white  ;  breeding. 

52.  Blue  heron  (Florida  cceruka).     Not  common. 

53.  Least  bittern  (Ardetta  exilis).     Karely  seen. 

54.  Green  heron  (Butorides  virescens).     Very  plen 
tiful,  and  breeding. 

55.  Night  heron  (Nycticorax  griseus).     Common. 

56.  White  ibis  (Ibis  alia).     Exceedingly  numerous, 
especially  along  the  river.     They  had  not  commenced 
breeding  to  all  appearances. 

57.  Roseate  spoonbill  (Platalea    ajaja).     Two  pairs 
found  breeding  on  an  island  in  the  lake  ;  several  seen 
there.     The  Indians  say  they  breed  abundantly  on  Fish- 
eating  Creek. 

58.  Crying  bird  (Aramus  giganteus).     Very  numer 
ous  along  the  Kissimmee  and  western  lake  shore.     Eggs 
had  been  taken  a  month  before  our  arrival,  February 
22d,  according  to  a  resident  on  the  river. 

59.  Green-wing   teal.     Abundant    along    the    Kis 
simmee. 

60.  Wood  duck  (Aix  sponsa).     The  most  abundant, 
in  fact  the  only  resident  species  I  saw  on  the  lake.     They 
were  apparently  breeding,  as  they  were  occupying  holes 
in  the  dead  cypress  of  the  east  shore. 

61.  Florida     cormorant     (Graculus      Floridanus). 
Abundant,  and  breeding  on  the  shore  bordering  the  Ever- 


48  GAME   ANIMALS   AKD   BIRDS   OF   FLORIDA. 

glades.  The  custard  apple  trees  there  were  filled  with 
their  newly  bnilt  nests. 

62.  Snake  bird  (Plotus  anliingci).  The  most  abun 
dant  species,  with  the  exception  of  the  white  heron,  on 
the  lake  or  river.  It  had  both  eggs  and  young  as  early 
as  February  23d  ;  everywhere  abundant.  No  mammals 
were  seen  about  the  lake,  and  signs  only  of  rabbit  and 
raccoon.  Deer  occurred  on  the  Kissimmee  prairie,  but 
in  small  numbers. 

Game  and  fish  are  abundant  in  the  vicinity  of  St. 
Augustine  during  the  winter.  Besides  English  snipe, 
the  brown-winged  curlew,  mallard  ducks,  blue  and  green- 
wingcd  teal,  there  are  the  summer  duck,  spoonbill,  wid 
geon,  shag-pole,  sprig-tail,  black-head,  blue-head,  Eng 
lish  diver,  canvas-back,  and  the  raft  duck,  which  is  found 
only  in  salt  wrater.  These  ducks  infest  the  rivers  in 
thousands,  and  are  considerably  hunted.  The  sports 
men  do  not  exhibit  a  great  amount  of  desire  to  fish, 
although  fish  are  plentiful  and  large.  Not  long  since,  a 
number  of  boys,  while  casting  their  fishing  lines  from  off 
the  old  fort  battery  here,  hooked  several  large  channel 
bass,  the  largest  one  weighing  as  high  as  thirty-four 
pounds.  Trout  also  are  freely  caught.  Then  there  is 
the  mullet,  whiting,  black-fish,  sheepshead,  and  other 
varieties,  all  in  season.  The  oysters  which  line  the 
river  banks  are  delicious,  and  are  gathered  with 
out  any  difficulty  and  to  any  amount.  We  recently 
gathered  a  good  mess  just  along  the  city  sea  wall,  not  fifty 
yards  from  the  streets.  The  deer,  wild  turkey,  and  bear, 
are  successfully  hunted  in  close  proximity  to  St.  Augus 
tine.  The  hotels  are  kept  in  bountiful  supply  with  ven 
ison  and  wild  turkey,  killed  by  our  old  hunters.  One 
of  them,  and  undoubtedly  the  most  experienced  in  the 


GAME  ANIMALS  AtfD   BIRDS  OF  FLORIDA.  49 

neighborhood,  is  John  Canova.  He  tells  us  the  game  is 
handy,  especially  the  deer.  The  bear  is  hunted  but 
little,  as  few  or  no  good  bear  dogs  are  to  be  brought  into 
requisition.  When  they  are  available  the  bear  is  then 
molested,  and  very  often  old  bruin  succumbs.  Mr.  Can- 
ova,  while  in  the  woods  alone  one  day  the  past  summer, 
encountered  a  monster  black  bear.  His  "  old  reliable  " 
double-barrel  gun  was  convenient,  and  Mr.  Bear  quietly 
expired.  Its  weight  was  400  pounds.  Sportsmen  hunt 
considerably  some  few  miles  south  of  here,  on  the  Hali 
fax  river,  as  they  like  the  idea  of  spending  a  few  weeks 
of  camp  life.  They  general  go  by  way  of  the  Matanzas 
river,  running  south  about  twenty-five  miles ;  thence 
they  are  hauled — boat  and  all — over  a  strip  of  land  nine 
miles  in  width  to  the  Halifax  river. 
3 


VI. 

GAME  FISH  OF  FLORIDA. 

I  HAD  always  supposed  that  the  fishes  of  the  northern 
coasts  were  of  better  quality  than  those  of  southern 
waters,  but  an  experience  of  three  winters  on  the  east 
coast  of  Florida  has  convinced  me  of  my  error.  In  a 
day's  fishing  at  Mosquito  Inlet,  on  the  Indian  river,  we 
often  took  six  or  eight  species  of  edible  fish,  all  of  which 
were  quite  equal  to  those  of  the  North.  They  are  also 
very  abundant,  and  not  being  much  pursued  are  easily 
caught.  This  is  particularly  the  case  in  the  Indian 
river,  where  the  angler  might  say — 

"  They  are  so  unacquainted  with  man, 
Their  tameness  is  shocking  to  me." 

The  Indian  river  country  is  mostly  wilderness,  and 
can  only  be  fished  and  hunted  by  camping  out,  which, 
however,  in  a  Florida  winter,  is  delightful,  the  weather 
being  much  like  the  finest  October  days  in  the  Northern 
States.  At  New  Smyrna,  near  the  Mosquito  Inlet, 
there  is  also  good  fishing,  and  there  is  an  excellent 
hotel,  kept  by  E.  K.  Dowd  (the  Ocean  House),  mostly 
frequented  by  anglers  and  hunters  from  the  North. 
Here  you  are  near  the  fishing  grounds,  and  behind  the 
house  stretches  away  to  the  south  an  immense  forest 
and  swamp,  containing  bears,  panthers,  deer,  wild 


GAME   FISH   OF  FLORIDA.  51 

cattle,  turkeys,  quails,  squirrels,  and  all  kinds  of  ducks 
and  water  fowl.  The  house  is  clean,  the  table  very 
good,  the  host  and  hostess  obliging  and  friendly,  and 
the  charges  moderate — about  $14  per  week.  The  route 
is  as  follows  :  From  Savannah,  by  rail,  to  Jacksonville, 
ten  or  twelve  hours ;  fare,  $8.  From  Jacksonville  to 
Enterprise,  on  the  St.  John,  per  steamer  in  two  days ; 
two  hundred  miles  ;  fare,  $9.  At  Enterprise  you  hire  a 
wagon  to  take  you  through  the  pine  woods  thirty  or 
forty  miles  to  New  Smyrna  ;  time,  twelve  hours  ;  per 
haps  more  if  the  swamps  are  full  of  water ;  fare,  $7. 
You  can  employ  a  day  or  two  at  Enterprise  (Brock 
House),  in  fishing  for  black  bass  (here  called  trout)  in 
Lake  Munroe,  or  in  hunting  deer  or  wild  turkeys  in  the 
woods.  The  expenses  of  a  trip  to  Florida  will  be  from 
$100  to  $150  per  month,  according  to  the  habits  of  the 
traveller. 

During  parts  of  three  winters  spent  in  this  region  I 
made  some  notes  of  the  food  and  game  fishes,  from 
which  I  have  prepared  the  following  sketches  : 

SIIEEPSHEAD  (Sargus  ovis).  DEKAY. — This  is  one 
of  the  most  abundant  species,  as  well  as  one  of  the 
most  valuable  as  food.  Though  much  more  numer 
ous  than  on  the  coasts  of  the  Middle  States,  they  are 
of  smaller  size,  averaging,  at  Mosquito  Inlet  and  in  the 
Indian  river,  about  three  pounds.  A  six-pound  fish  is 
large,  and  a  seven-pound  one  is  rare.  The  baits  gener 
ally  used  are  clams  (better  boiled,  being  tougher),  crabs, 
fiddlers,  and  conchs.  The  latter  bait  is  very  tough, 
well  resists  the  strong  teeth  of  the  sheepshead,  but  is,  I 
think,  less  attractive  than  the  others.  AVe  find  the  best 
fishing  usually  in  the  channels  which  run  along  the 
banks,  upon  which  is  a  thick  grove  of  mangrove  bushes  ; 


52  GAME   FISH   OF  FLORIDA. 

the  roots  of  these  are  in  the  water,  and  are  covered 
with  barnacles,,  which,  attract  the  sheepshead.  From 
half  flood  to  high  water  they  usually  bite  most  eagerly, 
though  here,  as  elsewhere,  there  sometimes  comes  a  day 
on  which  fish  do  not  feed — affected,  probably,  by  the 
wind  or  weather. 

I  am  disposed  to  believe,  with  [Morris,  that  the 
sheepshead  found  on  the  northern  coast  are  the  surplus 
production  of  more  southern  waters.  In  April,  the 
sheepshead  on  the  coast  of  Florida  become  heavy  with 
spawn,  and  lose  their  fine  flavor.  I  think  they  spawn 
in  May.  We  often  take  them  quite  small,  only  a  few 
ounces  in  weight.  Most  fishermen  use  a  hand  line, 
with  two  hooks  resting  on  the  bottom,  but  anglers  find 
more  sport  in  the  use  of  rod  and  reel.  A  four-pound 
sheepshead  will  make  a  strong  fight,  and  a  pair  of  them 
will  try  the  angler's  skill  to  save  both.  Owing  to  the 
hard  pavement  of  enamelled  teeth  in  the  mouth,  it  is 
difficult  to  hook  this  fish,  and  when  hooked  his  jaws  are 
so  strong  that  few  hooks  can  resist  their  power.  After 
trying  many  kinds  I  have  found  but  two  that  I  could 
depend  upon.  One  is  the  hook  used  at  Newport  for 
tautog,  and  the  other  is  figured  in  Norris'  book  under 
the  name  of  the  Virginia  hook.  It  is  the  best  of  the 
two,  having  a  sharp  cutting  edge  to  the  barb,  which 
gives  a  better  penetration.  Sinkers  of  different  weights 
are  required  to  suit  the  force  of  the  tide  at  different 
times,  the  sheepshead  being  a  bottom  fish.  Two,  four, 
and  six  ounces  will  be  found  sufficient.  AVe  usually 
averaged  a  dozen  fish  to  a  line  in  one  tide,  even  when 
half  a  dozen  persons  were  fishing  from  the  boat,  most  of 
whom  were  unskilled.  I  have  taken  twenty-live  shecps- 
hcad  in  a  tide  to  my  own  rod,  and  I  have  known  two 


GAME   FISH   OF   FLORIDA.  53 

anglers  to  kill  a  hundred  in  a  day.  We  used  generally 
to  fill  a  two-bushel  bag,  hanging  over  the  boat's  side  in 
the  water,  so  as  to  bring  the  fish  home  alive,  and  then 
put  them  in  a  car  anchored  in  the  creek  in  front  of 
the  hotel. 

RED-FISH,  OR  CHAXXEL BASS  (Corvina  ocellata).  Cu- 
VIER. — This  is  a  very  common  and  numerous  species  on 
the  Florida  coasts,  and  is  a  fish  much  resembling  in  habits 
its  congener,  the  striped  bass  of  more  northern  waters. 
It  is  taken  with  similar  baits,  such  as  shrimp,  crab,  or  a 
piece  of  mullet ;  it  fights  long  and  hard  on  the  hook, 
and  in  the  proper  season  is  an  excellent  table  fish,  boiled, 
cut  in  steaks,  and  broiled,  or  even  fried.  I  consider  it, 
after  the  month  of  March,  to  be  equal  to  the  striped 
bass.  In  the  fall  and  winter  the  red-fish  is  lean  and 
without  flavor,  but  improves  in  March,  and  in  January 
it  is  the  best  of  the  coast  fishes,  as  well  as  the  most 
abundant.  At  that  season  it  swarms  in  the  river  mouths 
and  sounds,  and  can  be  taken  with  almost  any  bait.  It 
is  also  found  of  large  size  in  the  surf  on  the  sea-beaches, 
and  can  be  readily  taken  by  casting  a  baited  hook  with 
a  hand  line  from  the  shore. 

Xorris  represents  the  red-fish  as  "  stringy,  and  lack 
ing  flavor,"  while  Herbert  calls  it  excellent.  Both  are 
right,  since  its  quality  varies  with  the  season.  Mr. 
Norris,  quoting  Holbrook,  describes  the  red-fish  as  of  a 
beautiful  silvery  color,  and  iridescent  when  taken  from 
the  water,  adding  that  in  the  Gulf  they  are  invariably 
red.  I  have  found  that  specimens  under  seven  or  eight 
pounds'  weight  have  the  back  of  a  steel-blue,  sides  golden, 
and  belly  white — the  larger  fish  are  of  a  brilliant  golden 
red  on  back  and  sides.  All  have  the  black  spot  near  the 
tail,  from  which  the  specific  name  is  derived.  Some- 


54  GAME   FISH    OF    FLORIDA. 

times  there  are  two  or  more  spots.  The  cut  in  Norris' 
book  gives  a  correct  figure  of  the  red-fish,  or  channel 
bass.  It  comes  into  the  rivers  with  the  tide,  and  is  best 
taken  in  the  channel  near  the  shore  at  half  flood.  As 
in  sheepshead  fishing,  most  persons  use  the  hand  line, 
with  the  bait  on  the  bottom,  but  I  have  found  better 
sport  with  a  brass  rod  and  reel  to  hold  sixty  or  seventy 
yards  of  line,  using  a  float  to  keep  my  bait  within  three 
feet  of  the  bottom.  The  same  hook  as  for  striped  bass  ; 
this  fish  has  a  tough,  but  not  very  bony  mouth,  and  is 
easily  hooked  and  held.  In  March  and  April  we  get 
them  in  the  rivers  and  inlets  of  from  five  to  ten  pounds 
weight ;  later  in  the  season  of  larger  size,  say  from  fif 
teen  to  thirty  pounds.  My  largest  was  taken  by  trolling 
with  a  hand  line  from  a  boat  in  the  Indian  river,  and 
weighed  twenty-five  pounds.  I  have  known  a  dozen  to  be 
taken  by  one  rod  in  the  spring,  averaging  eight  pounds, 
but  in  summer  a  wagon  load  could  be  hauled  out  of  the 
surf  with  a  hand  line  almost  anywhere  along  the  coast 
from  Mosquito  Inlet  to  the  Indian  river. 

SALT-WATER  TROUT  (Otolitus  Carolinensis).  Cu- 
VIER. — This  belongs  to  the  same  genus  as  the  weak-fish, 
or  squeteague  of  the  Middle  States  (0.  regalix),  differing 
chiefly  in  this,  that  the  southern  species  has  rows  of 
black  spots  on  the  back,  like  the  lake  trout  of  the 
Adirondacks,  which  it  much  resembles  in  figure.  It  is, 
however,  not  a  salmon,  but  rather  allied  to  the  perches 
of  the  order  Ctenoid,  of  Agassiz.  Our  southern  species 
is  not  much  esteemed  as  food,  becoming  soft  and  flavor 
less  soon  after  capture.  It  is  a  game  fish,  and  affords 
good  sport  to  the  rod  fisher ;  a  very  handsome  and 
lively  fish,  from  two  to  ten  pounds  in  weight,  and  is 
taken  usually  with  mullet  bait.  It  is  of  very  rapacious 


GAME  FISH   OF  FLORIDA.  55 

habits,  and  on  a  still  night  in  spring  and  summer  the 
snapping  of  their  jaws  may  be  distinctly  heard  as  they 
chase  the  mullets  and  small  fry  in  the  creeks.  Hoi- 
brook  gives  a  good  figure  of  this  species. 

THE  DRUM  (Pogonias  cromis).  CUVIEE.  (P.  fas- 
ciatus).  HOLBROOK. — There  seem  to  be  two  species  on 
the  southern  coast.  Pogonias  cromis  is  the  black  drum, 
the  larger  and  coarser,  sometimes  weighing  fifty  or  sixty 
pounds.  P.  fasciatus,  the  striped  drum,  of  ten  or  twelve 
pounds,  is  the  better  fish.  They  appear  at  Mosquito 
Inlet  about  April,  and  spawn,  I  think  at  that  season. 
The  roe  of  the  drum,  salted,  is  a  favorite  dish  on  the 
coast,  and  was  formerly  exported  in  large  quantities  to 
Cuba.  In  Charleston,  Savannah,  and  St.  Augustine  the 
drum  is  the  common  dinner  fish  when  in  season,  though 
I  think  it  much  inferior  to  the  sheepshead  or  the  red-fish. 
It  is  taken  in  the  same  way  as  its  cousin,  the  sheepshead, 
and  with  the  same  bait,  and  behaves  in  the  same  way 
when  hooked,  though  from  its  greater  size  and  strength 
its  capture  is  more  difficult.  This  fish  derives  its  name 
from  its  habit  of  emitting  a  hollow,  drumming  noise, 
principally,  I  think,  in  the  spawning  season.  This 
sound,  like  the  drumming  of  the  partridge,  is  difficult 
to  trace,  as  it  appears  to  diffuse  itself  in  space. 

THE  WHITING,  BARB,  OR  KINGFISH  ( Umbrina  neb- 
idosa).  STORER. — The  whiting  is  considered  one  of 
the  best  of  the  southern  fishes,  and  is  prized  higher  by 
the  natives  than  even  the  sheepshead  ;  perhaps  because 
it  is  a  scarcer  fish.  We  seldom  get  more  than  six  or 
eight  of  them  in  a  tide.  The  flesh  is  both  rich  and  deli 
cate,  and  the  average  weight  about  a  pound  ;  but  its  re 
sistance  is  greater  than  would  be  expected  from  the  size 
of  the  fish.  They  are  taken  in  rather  deep  water  on  the 


5G  GAME    FISH    OF    FLORIDA. 

bottom,  with  cither  clam,  crab,  or  mullet  bait.  The 
iigure  in  Norris'  book  is  accurate. 

RED  SXAPPEH,  OR  GROUPER  (Serranus  erythogaster). 
CUYIER. — This  fish  seems  to  be  called  by  both  names  in 
different  localities.  In  East  Florida  it  goes  by  the  name 
of  "  snapper,"  and  is  known  by  the  large  canine  teetli 
and  by  its  rapacious  habits  ;  when  put  with  other  fish  alive 
in  a  car  it  proceeds  to  devour  those  smaller  than  itself. 
It  has  large  scales,  with  spines  in  the  dorsal  fin,  and  has 
been  placed  by  Cuvicr  among  the  perches.  At  Mos 
quito  Inlet  they  are  small — from  one  to  three  pounds, 
but  in  the  Indian  Ilivcr  Inlet  I  have  taken  them  of  ten 
or  twelve  pounds'  weight,  and  I  have  seen  them  brought 
in  from  the  Gulf  of  double  that  size.  The  snapper 
seems  to  be  a  wary  fish,  and  requires  finer  tackle  and 
more  careful  fishing  than  most  of  the  coast  species.  I 
have  found  that  a  rather  small  hook,  fine  line,  with  mul 
let  bait  cast  from  a  reel,  using  a  float  so  as  to  let  the 
line  run  off  down  the  current  thirty  or  forty  yards  from 
the  boat,  was  the  most  successful  way  to  delude  the 
snapper.  It  bites  sharply,  fights  hard,  and  is  good  eat 
ing,  either  boiled  or  fried.  Color,  reddish  brown  on 
the  back  and  sides,  growing  darker  after  death  ;  belly 
silvery.  Ilolbrook,  in  his  figure  of  this  fish,  gives  it 
rows  of  black  spots  on  the  back. 

BLACK  GROUPER  (Serranus  nigritus).  HOLBROOK. 
— Commonly  known  on  the  Florida  coast  as  the 
"grouper";  it  is  a  perch  also,  and  is  of  the  very  best 
quality  on  the  table,  being  rich  and  well  flavored — ti 
better  fish  than  the  preceding,  in  my  opinion.  It  is 
shaped  something  like  the  black  bass  of  fresh  water,  the 
color  tin  olive  brown,  with  dark  mottled  lines,  resem 
bling  tortoise  shell.  At  Mosquito  Inlet  it  is  taken  from 


GAME   FISH   OF   FLORIDA.  57 

two  to  eight  pounds  in  weight,  with  mullet  bait,  on  the 
bottom.  The  grouper  has  a  stronghold  under  the  man 
grove  bushes,  or  in  a  hole  in  the  bank,  to  which  it  re 
treats  when  hooked,  and  being  a  vigorous  fish  often  suc 
ceeds  in  reaching  its  fortress,  from  which  it  can  with 
difficulty  be  dislodged,  and  the  loss  of  fish  and  tackle  is 
the  result.  More  hooks  are  lost  by  the  grouper  than  by 
any  other  fish,  but  as  it  affords  good  sport  and  excellent 
food,  it  is  a  favorite  object  of  the  angler's  pursuit.  A 
bass  rod  and  reel,  with  a  strong  line  and  Virginia  hook, 
with  lead  enough  to  keep  the  bait  on  the  bottom,  is  the 
best  rig  for  the  grouper,  and,  after  all,  the  prospect  of 
getting  him  is  uncertain.  He  fights  so  hard  that  you 
have  to  give  him  line,  and  if  you  give  him  too  much  he 
is  sure  to  escape  into  his  hold. 

COBIA,  CRAB-EATER,  OR  SARGEANT  FISH  (Elacate 
Atlanticus).  CUYIER. — This  fish  I  have  never  seen,  ex 
cept  in  the  Indian  river,  where  it  is  a  common  species, 
lying  under  the  mangrove  bushes  in  wait  for  prey  like  a 
pike,  which  it  much  resembles  in  form,  and  in  the  long 
under-jaw,  full  of  sharp  teeth.  It  derives  its  trivial 
name  from  a  black  stripe  running  along  its  silvery  sides 
from  head  to  tail,  like  that  on  the  trowsers  of  a  sergeant. 
I  found  it  rather  coarse  and  indifferent  food,  in  that 
also  resembling  the  fresh- water  pike.  Size  from  two  to 
three  feet  long. 

THE  POMPAXO  (Bothrolcemus  pampanus).  HOL- 
BROOK. — Most  persons  who  have  been  in  Mobile  or  New 
Orleans  have  heard  of  the  pompano.  Perhaps  few  have 
seen  or  tasted  it,  though  it  has  the  reputation  of  being 
the  finest  fish  in  the  world,  and  brings  in  the  southern 
markets  three  or  four  times  the  price  of  any  other  fish. 
It  is  a  rare  fish,  which  may  in  part  account  for  its  high 
3* 


58  GAME   FISH    OF   FLORIDA. 

reputation,  though  having  had  the  good  fortune  to 
catch  and  eat  a  pompano  in  Florida  I  am  prepared  to 
admit  its  claims  for  merit  of  the  highest  order.  IIol- 
brook  is  the  only  writer  who,  to  my  knowledge,  gives  a 
scientific  description  of  this  fish,  and  he  apparently  con 
founds  it  with  the  cavalli  or  crevalle,  which  much 
resembles  it  in  appearance.  In  his  "  Fishes  of  South 
Carolina,"  he  heads  his  description  "  The  Pompano, 
Bothrolcemus  pampanus.  Synonyms — Licliia  Carolina, 
(Dekay  and  Storer;)  Trachinotus  pampanus  (Cuvier 
and  Val)  ;  vulgo,  cavalli  or  crevalle  ;  known  in  New 
Orleans  as  pompynose." — Page  11. 

The  fish  known  on  the  coast  of  Florida  as  the  cavalli 
or  crevalle,  I  take  to  be  Caraux  defensor  (Dekay),  which 
belongs  to  the  same  family  as  B.  pampanus f  but  is  of 
different  habits  and  merit,  and  has  important  structural 
distinctions. 

The  pompano  has  a  truncated  snout,  rather  a  small 
mouth  without  teeth,  jaws  strong  and  massive,  eye  of 
moderate  size,  body  much  compressed  and  deep,  about 
one-third  the  length  ;  first  dorsal  fin  represented  by  six 
spines ;  second  dorsal  soft  and  extending  to  the  tail ; 
anal  fin  extending  to  the  tail  also.  The  pompano  is  a 
bottom  fish,  and  is  found  singly.  My  specimen  was 
taken  in  the  Hillsboro  river,  near  New  Smyrna,  with 
clam  bait,  wrhile  fishing  on  the  bottom  for  sheepshead. 
It  weighed  only  two  and  a  half  pounds,  but  made  so 
furious  a  resistance  that  I  thought  I  had  a  large  sheeps 
head  hooked  foul.  It  ran  in  circles,  darted  under  the 
boat,  fouled  our  lines,  and  made  fuss  enough  for  a  fish 
of  three  times  it  size.  As  soon  as  our  boatman  saw  it  he 
shouted,  "  A  pompano  !  and  the  first  I  ever  saw  caught 
with  a  hook  in  this  river  !  "  This  man  had  fished  on  the 


GAME   FISH   OF   FLORIDA.  59 

coast  all  his  life,  and  knew  every  fish  in  the  waters. 
He  had  been  with  us  when  we  caught  the  cavalli  in 
the  Indian  river,  and  named  both  species  at  once.  My 
specimen  was  a  splendid  creature.  His  colors  were  as 
brilliant  as  those  of  a  fresh-water  salmon,  but  instead  of 
bright  silver  lie  was  like  a  bar  of  frosted  silver.  This 
changed  after  death,  to  dark  blue  above  and  lemon-yel 
low  beneath.  We  had  him  cut  in  slices  and  fried,  and 
even  under  that  treatment,  which  I  suspect  was  not  the 
most  appropriate,  he  was  superb.  A  combination  of 
richness  and  delicacy  of  flavor  quite  unique — like  a 
New  Brunswick  salmon  and  Lake  Superior  whitefish, 
which,  of  all  the  fishes  on  this  Continent,  I  hold  to 
be  the  best. 

This  specimen  measured  eighteen  inches  long  and 
six  in  depth. 

THE  CAVALLI,  or  CEEVALLE  (Caraux  defensor). 
DEKAY. — Belongs  to  the  same  family  as  the  last,  and 
much  resembles  it  in  appearance*  The  cavalli  has  a 
more  pointed  head  and  snout,  with  moderately  large 
conical  and  pointed  teeth.  The  mouth  is  larger  than 
in  the  pompano,  the  body  not  as  deep  in  proportion  to  the 
length,  the  eye  is  larger,  has  two  dorsal  fins,  and  at  the 
junction  of  the  tail  with  the  body  it  is  smaller  than  the 
pompano.  In  color  it  is  olive  green,  and  silvery  above  and 
yellow  beneath.  I  found  it  quite  numerous  at  the  Indian 
Eiver  Inlet.  It  goes  in  schools,  swims  near  the  surface, 
and  takes  readily  a  trawl,  either  bait  or  red  rag.  It  is  an 
active,  sporting  fish,  but  of  indifferent  quality  on  the 
table,  being  dry  and  tasteless,  like  the  dolphin  of 
tropical  seas.  Those  I  caught  were  of  about  two 
pounds'  weight,  but  I  am  told  that  it  grows  to  five  times 
that  size. 


GO  GAME   FISH   OF   FLORIDA. 

It  would  appear  that  these  two  species,  from  their 
strong  resemblance  to  each  other,  are  often  confounded, 
and  I  think  it  very  probable  that  specimens  of  the  pom- 
pano  reported  to  have  been  taken  this  year  in  Buzzard's 
Bay  were  in  reality  cavalli,  this  being  a  more  roving  as 
well  as  a  more  numerous  species  than  the  pompano. 

BLACKFISH,  OK  SEA  BASS  (Centropistes  niyr leans). 
CUVIER. — This  seems  to  be  the  same  species  which  is 
known  in  New  York  as  the  sea  bass,  and  at  Newport  as  the 
blackfish.  Like  the  sheepshcad,  those  in  northern  waters 
are  much  larger  than  we  find  them  in  Florida  waters,  so 
that  I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  they  breed  here  and 
go  North  in  the  summer.  At  Mosquito  Inlet,  they  are 
very  abundant,  and  being  voracious  feeders  can  be  taken 
almost  at  will,  and  with  any  bait.  Usually  under  a 
pound,  while  olf  the  reefs  at  Newport  I  had  taken  them 
of  six  or  seven. 

SAILOR'S  CHOICE,  on  HOGFISII  (Ilemulon  falcoma- 
culatus).  DEKAY  ;  CHOKER  (Micropoyon  undulatus). 
CUVIER  ;  BLACK  GRUXT  (Hcmulon  arcuatum).  HOL- 
BROOK  ;  SKIP  JACK,  YOUXG  OF  BLUEFISII  (Temnodon 
saltator).  Lixx. — The  above  are  small  pan  fish,  which 
can  be  taken  in  vast  numbers  in  the  bays  and  creeks, 
but  the  larger  species  being  numerous  few  persons 
seek  for  these,  though  they  are  all  nice  eating.  The 
fullgrown  bluefisli  arc  numerous  on  some  parts  of 
the  coast  at  certain  seasons,  as  I  am  informed,  as 
arc  also  the  Spanish  mackerel,  but  I  have  never  met 
with  them. 

MULLET  (Mayil  Hneahix).  DEKAY. — I  think  there 
arc  several  species  of  the  mullet  here.  They  are  found 
everywhere  in  the  bays  and  sounds  in  immense  shoals, 
und  are  taken  in  seines  and  cast  nets  in  size  from  half  a 


GAME   FISH   OF   FLORIDA.  61 

pound  to  six  pounds.  It  is  a  very  valuable  fish  to  the 
inhabitants,  since  it  takes  salt  better  than  any  other 
southern  species,  being  equal  to  the  mackerel  in  that 
respect.  It  also  furnishes  a  valuable  food  in  its  spawn, 
which  is  salted  and  smoked.  It  is  also  used  extensively 
as  bait  for  most  other  fishes.  The  mullet  appears  to 
subsist  upon  the  minute  animals  found  in  the  mud, 
with  which  substance  its  stomach  and  intestines  are 
usually  found  to  be  filled.  Eaten  fresh,  the  mullet 
affords  a  rich  and  savory  food. 

SALT-WATER  CATFISH  (Galeiclitliys  marinus).  Cu- 
TIER. — Much  resembles  the  fresh-water  catfish,  but  is 
a  handsomer  fish,  both  in  form  and  color.  It  has  the 
barbels  dependent  from  the  mouth,  and  strong  spines  in 
the  pectoral  and  dorsal  fins,  capable  of  inflicting  painful 
wounds  upon  careless  hands.  As  to  its  value  as  an 
edible  species,  I  cannot  say  ;  they  are  numerous,  and 
greedy  biters,  but  are  generally  thrown  away,  or  left  for 
the  coons  and  buzzards.  Size  in  the  Indian  river,  ten 
or  twelve  pounds. 

SHARKS  AKD  THEIR  COXGEXERS. — Sharks  are  very 
numerous  in  these  waters,  from  six  to  nine  feet  long — 
probably  the  mackerel  shark,  Lamna  punctata — Storer. 
There  is  a  species  here  called  the  nurse  shark,  Somni- 
osus  boeirpinna,  De  S.,  which  is  sometimes  taken  with  a 
hook ;  it  is  about  five  or  six  feet  long,  and  its  teeth  are 
very  small. 

Other  members  of  this  family  are  the  garfish,  angel 
fish,  rays,  skates,  etc.  The  garfish,  Pristis  antiquorum 
(Dekay),  is  shark-like  in  form,  with  a  cruel  weapon  pro 
jecting  from  its  snout  one-third  the  length  of  its  body. 
This  is  studded  with  sharp  spines  on  either  side,  and  is 
used  to  kill  other  fishes.  The  sawfish  has  a  large 


C2  GAME   PISH    OF   FLORIDA. 

mouth,  hut  no  teeth  in  it,  so  lie  slushes  his  saw  among  a 
school  of  mullets,  killing  half  a  dozen  at  a  blow,  which 
he  then  gobhles  up  at  his  leisure.  He  is  dreaded  by 
fishermen,  who  disable  him  hy  a  hlow  on  the  saw. 

The  angel-fish  is  a  very  had  angel  indeed,  judging 
from  his  appearance,  which  is  between  a  shark  and  a 
TH\ — a  hideous  combination. 

The  rays  or  skates  belong  also  to  this  class,  and  they 
are  of  large  size  and  numerous  on  this  coast,  particularly 
the  sting  ray,  Trygon  hastata  (Storer),  which  is  a  terror 
to  fishermen.  In  wading  to  cast  their  nets  they  are  in 
danger  of  treading  on  this  creature,  which  lurks  in  tho 
mud  or  on  the  sandy  bottom,  and  when  touched  strikes 
with  his  terrible  barbed  weapon,  making  ragged  wounds 
so  difficult  to  heal  that  they  are  popularly  supposed  to 
be  poisoned.  These  rays  are  often  six  feet  long,  includ 
ing  the  tail,  and  three  feet  across.  They  appear  to  live 
upon  the  small  mollusks  so  numerous  in  these  waters. 
I  have  seen  a  ray,  when  hauled  ashore,  disgorge  a  pint 
or  more  of  these  small  bivalves. 

The  torpedo  ray,  or  crawfish,  is  also  found  on  this 
coast,  which  animal  carries  with  him  an  electrical 
battery  of  250,000  plates  as  described  by  naturalists, 
capable  of  giving  a  very  severe  shock  to  the  incautious 
fisherman. 

Cephaloptera  vampirus.  MITCHELL. — The  great  ray, 
vampire  of  the  ocean,  or  devil-fish,  is  found  also  in  these 
waters,  although  it  seldom  enters  the  rivers.  This  is 
often  fifteen  feet  in  length,  and  the  same  in  breadth, 
and  is  strong  enough  to  drag  off  a  small  vessel,  when  it 
becomes  entangled  with  the  cable,  as  sometimes  hap 
pens.  In  Charleston  harbor  they  are  pursued  in  whale- 
boats,  and  captured  with  harpoons,  affording  great 


GAME   FISH   OF   FLORIDA.  03 

sport.  In  Victor  Hugo's  romance,  the  name  devil-fish, 
which  belongs  to  this  ray,  is  wrongly  bestowed  upon  the 
octopus,  or  cuttle-fish.  This  great  ray,  when  propelling 
itself  through  the  water  with  its  immense  pectoral  fins, 
which  look  like  the  wings  of  a  bat,  is  a  wonderful  sight. 
On  its  head  are  two  horns,  which,  with  its  long  tail, 
complete  the  resemblance  to  his  satanic  majesty.  This 
is  a  fish,  and  the  cuttle  is  not. 

I  hear  often  from  the  natives  of  two  large  and  valua 
ble  fishes  of  these  waters,  which,  from  their  great  size 
and  activity,  are  seldom  caught — the  jew-fish  and  the 
tarpum.  The  jew-fish  seems  to  be  a  near  relative  of  the 
grouper,  and  to  belong,  like  it,  to  the  perch  family.  It  is  a 
ehort,  thick-set  fish,  with  large  fins,  and  looks  like  a  giant 
black  bass  or  a  tautog  ;  color,  olive  brown  ;  scales  small, 
head  large,  with  well  developed  mouth  and  numerous 
small  teeth.  The  first  dorsal  fin  has  eleven  spines ; 
second  dorsal,  soft ;  anal  fin  long,  like  the  esocidae. 
When  hooked  it  runs  for  a  hole,  like  a  grouper.  Speci 
mens  have  been  taken  in  these  waters  on  a  shark  line, 
which  weighed  two  or  three  hundred  pounds,  so  that  I 
think  it  must  be  the  larger  of  the  percoids.  The  flesh 
is  rich  and  well  flavored,  and  as  I  have  only  seen  this 
one  specimen  in  four  winters'  fishing  here,  I  think  it 
must  be  a  rare  fish. 

The  tarpum  I  have  not  seen.  It  also  is  rare,  and  is 
described  to  belong  to  the  mackerel  family,  growing  to 
the  weight  of  80  to  100  Ibs.  A  surface  fish,  very  active 
and  strong,  with  brilliant  silvery  scales  the  size  of  a 
dollar.  It  is  rarely  taken  with  hook  and  line,  as  it 
generally  carries  away  the  tackle,  however  strong.  It 
goes  in  schools,  and  leaps  from  the  water  when  struck, 
either  with  hook  or  spear.  The  only  successful  way  of 


C4  GAME    FISH    OF   FLORIDA. 

killing  the  tarpum,  I  am  told,  is  to  strike  it  with  a  har 
poon,  to  which  is  attached  by  ;i  strong  line  a  small 
empty  cask  ;  the  lish,  hy  struggling  with  this  buoy, 
exhausts  itself  so  that  it  may  he  approached  in  a  boat 
and  killed  with  a  lance.  I  lately  hooked  a  mysterious 
fish  or  fishes  (for  the  same  thing  happened  to  me  three 
times  within  an  hour)  which  ran  out  50  or  GO  yards  of 
line  with  a  single  dash,  and  then  breached  on  the  sur 
face,  taking  away  my  hooks.  It  was  so  strong  and  swift 
that  in  trying  to  check  it  a  thumbstall  of  thick  buckskin 
was  cut  through  by  the  line  as  if  by  a  knife,  and  my 
thumb  burned  by  the  friction.  This  was  either  a  shovel- 
nosed  shark,  which  runs  off  in  this  way,  not  turning 
like  a  common  shark,  or  a  tarpum,  and  as  a  school  of 
these  fishes  has  been  often  seen  near  the  spot  where  I 
hooked  my 'fish,  I  am  inclined  to  think  it  was  this  species 
which  I  then  encountered.  The  rush  was  more  like 
that  of  a  fresh  run  salmon  than  of  any  other  fish  I 
know,  except  that  this  one  did  not  leap  out  of  the  water 
like  the  salmon. 

Not  having  access  to  any  works  on  icthyology,  I  am 
unable  to  give  the  scientific  names  of  these  fishes. 
They  are  mentioned  under  the  above  names  by  Captain 
Romans,  who  wrote  a  "  Concise  Natural  History  of 
Florida,"  about  1773.  Xew  York  anglers,  who  kill  30 
or  40  Ibs.  striped  bass  with  the  rod,  would  find  in  the 
jew-fish  and  tarpum  foemen  worthy  of  their  steel. 

The  variety  of  species  which  one  meets  with  in  these 
waters  in  a  few  days'  fishing,  while  it  adds  much  to  the 
variety  and  interest  of  the  sport,  causes  a  great  loss  of 
hooks  and  lines. 

Perhaps  you  rig  will)  small  hooks  for  pigfish  or  whit 
ing,  and  a  red-fish  of  twenty  pounds  takes  away  your 


GAME   FISH   OF   FLORIDA.  65 

hooks  ;  or  you  arc  fishing  with  larger  tackle  for  redfish 
and  a  giant  ray  takes  your  hooks  to  the  bottom  and  stays 
there,  or  a  furious  shark  of  200  Ibs.  cuts  oil  your  line  at 
the  first  turn  he  makes.  I  succeeded  in  capturing  a 
nurse  shark  five  or  six  feet  long,  with  rod  and  reel. 
This  is  a  shark  of  rather  sluggish  habits  (whence  its 
name,  Somniosus  brevipe?ina),  with  teeth  too  small  to 
allow  it  to  cut  off  the  line.  After  15  or  20  minutes'  play 
it  was  gaffed  by  our  boatman. 

THE  FRESH- WATER  FISHES  OF  FLORIDA. — Of  these 
I  have  less  knowledge  than  of  the  sea  fishes.  The 
species  most  widely  diffused,  and  also  the  most  valued, 
is  the  black  trout,  or  bass  (Grystes  salmoides).  This 
species  is  also  found  in  the  western  lakes  and  rivers,  but 
in  Florida  it  grows  to  a  larger  size  ;  specimens  of  eight, 
ten,  and  twelve  pounds  being  sometimes  taken.  The 
native  method  is  with  a  bob,  which  is  a  bunch  of  gay- 
colored  feathers,  with  two  or  three  large  hooks  concealed 
in  it.  This  is  fastened  to  a  yard  or  two  of  strong  line, 
and  this  to  a  stout  reed  pole.  The  fisherman  sits  in  the 
bow  of  a  canoe,  which  is  paddled  by  one  in  the  stern, 
and  kept  at  such  a  distance  from  the  weedy  shore  that 
the  bob  may  be  skittered  along  the  margin.  Out  rushes 
the  bass,  and  cannot  well  escape  being  hooked  ;  he  is 
either  hauled  in  by  main  force,  or  breaks  away.  North 
ern  fishermen  use  the  spoon,  or  sometimes  cast  with  a 
long  line  and  gaudy  flies.  Once  on  the  Upper  St.  Johns, 
near  the  Everglades,  two  of  us  took,  with  spoons,  trawling 
from  the  stern  of  a  steamer,  twenty  or  thirty  black  bass 
in  an  hour  or  two  ;  they  were  from  two  to  six  pounds 
weight.  Parties  who  go  out  from  Enterprise  upon  Lake 
Munroe  in  small  boats  often  bring  in  great  strings  of 
bass. 


66  GAME    FISH    OF    FLORIDA. 

In  the  lakes  and  rivers  are  also  found  the  yellow 
perch,  P.  flavescens  (Cuvior)  ;  sunfish,  Pomotis  vulgar  is 
(Cuvier)  ;  blue  bream,  Iclithetis  incisor  (Val.)  ;  red- 
bellied  perch,  Ichflietis  ruUcanda  (Storer)  ;  goggle-eyed 
perch,  Pomoxis  rhomboides  (Linn). 

S.  C.  CLAKKE. 


VII. 

THREE  MONTHS  IN  FLORIDA  FOR  A  HUN 
DRED  DOLLARS. 

IT  is  a  pity  that  people  other  than  rich,  should  be 
afflicted  with  sickness  or  devices  that  spring  from  a 
craving  for  a  change  of  climate.  So  wide  a  difference 
exists  between  the  climatic  conditions  of  the  Northern 
States  and  those  of  the  southernmost,  that  it  is  quite  prac 
ticable  for  one  possessed  of  means  to  remedy  any  defect 
in  his  constitution,  pulmonarily,  if  this  expression  be 
allowable,  merely  by  a  change  of  residence.  It  is  so  well 
known  that  it  needs  no  further  showing,  that  consump 
tion,  that  scourge  of  the  North,  can  be  cured  (if  not 
radically,  at  least  its  fatal  consequences  postponed),  if 
the  patient  is  taken  in  hand  in  the  early  stages  of 
the  disease,  and  treated  to  a  dose  of  the  bland  and 
health-renewing  climate  of  Florida.  It  is  so  well  known 
that  thousands  seek,  and  gain,  relief  by  a  temporary 
residence  in  that  land  of  the  "Fountain  of  Youth." 

Perhaps  that  term,  "  the  Land  of  the  Fountain  of 
Youth "  has  not  already  been  used  several  thousand 
times  ;  but  no  matter,  it  is  very  telling,  when  one  would 
attract  the  attention  by  the  use  of  sonorous  phrases. 
But  Florida  deserves  all  such  flattering  titles  as  the  above, 
and  that  of  the  "  Land  of  Flowers,"  no  matter  how  much 
her  defamers  may  say  to  the  contrary.  There  are  thou- 


Ob  THREE    MONTHS    IX    FLORIDA 

sands  more  who  would  bo  but  too  glad  to  avail  themselves 
of  the  advantages  accruing  from  the  winter's  stay  there, 
could  they  but  afford  it.  Consumption  is  so  insidious 
in  its  approach  that  its  victim  is  lulled  by  a  fatal  sense 
of  security  to  postpone  the  day  of  departure  until  too 
late,  and  he  departs  only  for  the  shadowy  land.  Any 
well-informed  physician  can  prognosticate  the  result  at  a 
sufficiently  early  stage  of  the  disease  to  warn  the  patient, 
and  then — then  only,  is  the  time  to  profit  by  the  knowl 
edge,  and  leave  a  place  of  death  for  a  country  of  health. 

To  those  who  are  suffering,  who  are  hesitating,  dread 
ing  the  annoyance  and  expense  incident  to  a  voyage  to 
Florida ;  feeling  that  they  would  rather  face  the  certain 
dangers  of  another  winter  at  the  North,  I  address  myself. 
To  another  class  of  citizens  the  information  to  be  given 
here  will  not  come  amiss — to  those  who,  though  in  good 
health  and  strength,  have  unsatisfied  longings  for  the 
game  region  of  the  South.  It  cannot  be  denied  that  many 
sportsmen  suffer  from  a  plentiful  lack  of  money,  and  any 
suggestion  tending  to  furnish  a  moderate  supply  of  game 
at  slight  expenditure  will  be  acceptable.  To  them,  then, 
as  well  as  to  the  invalid,  the  following  notes  may  be  of 
service  ;  though  in  fact,  as  may  be  expected,  the  invalid 
will  drop  his  role  of  sick  man  and  assume  that  of  sports 
man,  at  an  early  period  of  his  stay  in  a  land  whose  cli 
mate  is  so  gloriously  rejuvenating  as  that  of  Florida. 

To  fulfil  the  expectations  aroused  by  my  announce 
ment  at  the  head  of  this  paper  to  treat  one  to  a  thrce- 
montlis'  trip  to  Florida  for  a  hundred  dollars,  I  must 
assume  that  the  tourist  be  tolerably  strong,  and  able  to  en 
dure  a  sea  voyage  in  a  sailing  vessel.  Fifteen  dollars  will 
cover  the  cost  of  a  "  cabin  "  passage  from  New  York  to 
Jacksonville,  in  Florida.  Fifteen  dollars  and  two  weeks' 


FOR,   A   HUNDRED   DOLLARS.  CO 

time.  Perhaps  three  weeks  ;  may  not  consume  but  eight 
days  ;  but  two  weeks  is  a  fair  average.  Assume,  then,  that 
$15  is  expended  for  passage  down,  twice  fifteen  (coming 
back)  makes  thirty  dollars,  leaving  a  balance  of  seventy 
dollars  for  other  expenses  for  two  months,  one  month 
supposed  to  have  been  passed  on  the  briny  deep.  Ke- 
garding  the  joys  and  delights  of  an  ocean  voyage  in 
winter,  I  remain  silent ;  that  is  a  matter  of  taste,  and 
individual  taste  does  not  come  within  the  scope  of  this 
article.  There  are  people  who  revel  in  the  beauties  of 
an  ocean  storm  ;  who  climb  out  upon  the  bowsprit  as 
the  vessel  rises  and  falls,  to  get  the  full  benefit  of  the 
plunge.  To  such,  a  trip  to  Florida  in  a  schooner  would 
be  unalloyed  bliss,  provided  cabin  accommodations  were 
good,  and  "grub"  well-cooked  and  varied.  Again, 
there  are  those  to  whom  the  dreary  monotony  of  sailing 
on  and  on  is  horrible,  and  to  whom  a  storm  but  represents 
so  much  racking  of  bones,  and  so  many  dinners  lost  for 
ever.  These  seek  consolation  within  themselves,  and 
draw  upon  their  reserve  fund  of  vitality  fearfully. 

Other  routes  are  at  the  disposal  of  one  not  confined 
to  a  limited  amount  of  cash,  and  for  thirty-five  dollars 
he  can  reach  Florida  by  one  of  the  many  steamers  that 
ply  between  New  York  and  the  South.  These  steamers 
run  to  Charleston  and  Savannah,  and  connect  with 
other  steamers  that  enter  Florida.  The  accommodations 
are  very  good  upon  the  majority  of  them,  and  the  time 
consumed  in  the  entire  trip  generally  less  than  five  days. 
All-rail  routes  there  are,  for  those  who  dread  the  ocean, 
which  make  the  distance  in  about  a  day  less,  and  at  a 
cost  of  about  forty-five  dollars.  The  most  preferable 
route,  in  my  opinion,  is  by  steamer  to  Savannah,  and 
thence  by  the  new  road  direct  to  Jacksonville.  Pro- 


70  THREE   MONTHS   IN    FLORIDA 

yided  time  is  not  an  object,  the  "  inside  route,"  among 
the  sea-islands  of  Georgia,  is  very  pleasant. 

There  are  but  throe  ports  directly  accessible  by  sail 
ing  vessel  upon  the  cast  coast  of  Florida,  Commencing 
with  the  northernmost,  these  are,  Fernandina,  Jackson 
ville,  and  New  Smyrna.  The  two  first  named  have  a 
large  lumber  trade  with  the  North,  and  frequent  oppor 
tunities  are  offered  for  passage  and  freight  upon  the 
vessels  engaged  in  the  business.  They  go  down  light,  in 
ballast,  and  are  but  too  glad  to  receive  any  quantity  of 
freight.  This  is  why  Jacksonville  can  furnish  provisions, 
and  nearly  everything  else,  at  New  York  prices. 

Fernandina  has  many  inducements  to  offer  in  the 
matter  of  out-door  life.  It  has  a  magnificent  ocean 
beach,  pure  air  and  delightful  bays,  harbors,  creeks  and 
rivers  to  sail  and  fish,  close  at  home.  In  many  things 
it  out-ranks  its  lower  neighbors,  but  in  the  way  of  game 
it  cannot  approach  some  places  on  the  lower  coast 
and  St.  Johns.  It  has  direct  rail  communication  with 
the  west  coast  at  Cedar  Keys,  fare  about  $7,  and  steam 
boat  communication  with  Savannah  and  Charleston 
both  the  inside  and  outside  lines.  The  town  itself 
is  orderly,  pleasant,  and  well  supplied  with  markets 
and  stores. 

As  a  place  from  which  one  may  reach  the  most 
attractive  portions  of  the  State,  Jacksonville  should  be 
selected.  Situated  upon  the  St.  Johns,  it  has  steam 
communication  with  every  settlement  upon  that  interest 
ing  river,  and  witli  St.  Augustine,  New  Smyrna,  and  In 
dian  rive.r,  upon  the  coast,  It  has  direct  rail  connec 
tion  with  Tallahassee,  the  capital  of  the  State,  with 
Cedar  Keys  upon  the  west  coast,  and  thence  with  all 
the  Gulf  ports,  the  keys,  and  Cuba,  and  with  Sayan- 


FOR   A   HUNDRED   DOLLARS.  71 

nali,  via  the  old  circuitous  route,  and  a  more  direct  new 
one.  Being  naturally  so  centrally  and  commandingly 
situated,  drawing  the  trade  and  productions  of  the  St. 
Johns,  with  its  countless  tributaries  and  lakes,  it  is  the 
place  of  all  places  to  obtain  a  first  glimpse  of  Florida  in 
its  most  flourishing  condition.  The  climate  of  Jackson 
ville  is  not  all  that  could  be  desired,  for  it  does  not  pos 
sess  that  remarkable  softness  and  warmth  generally 
supposed  to  belong  to  Florida.  It  is  subject  to  extremes 
of  temperature,  and  in  winter  will  chill  a  sensitive 
invalid  to  the  bones  with  its  nocturnal  frosts.  It  has 
much  that  is  desirable,  however,  in  its  bright  warm  days, 
and  possesses  a  grand  birthright  in  the  St.  Johns  alone. 
Here  the  camper-out  had  better  procure  his  outfit,  except 
tent  and  personal  effects.  From  Jacksonville  to  Enter 
prise,  200  miles  up  the  St.  Johns,  the  fare  by  steamer  is 
$12,  and  of  proportionable  price  to  intervening  landings. 
To  Salt  Lake,  the  farthest  point  reached  by  steamers 
(curious  stern- wheelers),  it  is  about  $6  more  ;  all  freight 
at  the  rate  of  about  $1  per  barrel  ;  a  small  boat  up 
the  St.  Johns  pays  $5  for  passage  upon  the  steamers. 
Indian  river,  the  great  game  section,  is  reached  via  Salt 
Lake,  from  the  St.  Johns,  the  distance  across  land  at 
that  point  being  but  six  miles. 

New  Smyrna,  one  hundred  miles  south  of  the  mouth 
of  the  St.  Johns,  has  more  inducements  in  fish  and  game 
and  real  enjoyable  camping  life,  but  lacks  the  many 
conveniences  of  diet  and  travel  that  the  other  places 
possess.  Few  vessels  visit  it,  and  these  for  lumber, 
chartered  by  live-oak  contractors.  For  a  party  in  good 
health,  with  plentiful  supplies,  it  is  the  best  point  one 
can  choose  for  a  few  months'  stay,  when  the  object  is 
merely  to  gain  flesh  and  have  a  good  time  hunting  and 


72  THREE   MONTHS   IN   FLORIDA 

fishing.  Two  largo  lagoons,  thirty  miles  in  length, 
enter  the  ocean  at  this  point,  and  via  the  south,  or 
Mosquito  lagoon,  can  be  reached  the  famous  Indian 
river. 

St.  Augustine,  though  claiming  attention  from  its 
delightful  climate  and  the  interest  attached  to  its  ruins, 
is  not  especially  referred  to,  as  not  being  in  direct  com 
munication  with  the  North.  It  has  small  sailing  vessels, 
as  well  as  has  New  Smyrna,  connecting  it  with  Jackson 
ville,  and  a  rail  connection  with  the  St.  Johns,  but  is  a 
dear  place  to  visit. 

When  to  go  depends  upon  so  many  things  that  it 
is  not  an  easy  matter  to  advise  correctly.  If  one  wished 
merely  to  get  rid  of  cold  weather,  then  the  first  of 
December  would  be  the  time,  being  sufficiently  early, 
and  in  season  to  catch  a  parting  touch  of  the  hot  season. 
The  months  of  January,  February,  and  March  are  prob 
ably  the  best  to  spend  in  Florida ;  being  the  pleasant- 
est  there,  as  well  as  the  most  trying  to  the  invalid  at 
the  North. 

Perhaps  a  few  facts  as  to  climate  will  be  pertinent  to 
the  subject,  and  are  accordingly  produced.  By  reference 
to  my  note  book  of  three  years  ago  I  find  that  the  temper 
ature  in  January  ranged  from  28  to  80  deg.  ;  was  more 
equable  in  February  and  March,  with  less  extremes, 
though  growing  warmer.  The  mean  temperature  of 
January  was  about  CO  degrees.  According  to  the  only 
tables  at  present  accessible,  the  mean  temperature  in 
Jacksonville,  for  January,  for  20  years,  was  55  degrees, 
for  February,  58  degrees,  and  for  March,  C3  degrees. 
In  Augustine,  for  the  same  time  and  months,  the  means 
were,  respectively,  57,  50,  and  G3  degrees,  thirty  degrees 
warmer  than  the  mean  temperature  of  West  Point  dur- 


FOR   A    IIUXDRED    DOLLARS.  73 

ing  the  same  period  and  months.  At  Key  West,  the 
extreme  southern  port  of  Florida  and  our  Union,  the 
range  of  the  thermometer  was  nine  degrees  higher. 
At  New  Smyrna  the  temperature  is  essentially  modified, 
and  on  Indian  river  the  change  is  much  greater,  temper 
ature  being  several  degrees  warmer. 

With  the  object  in  view  of  spending  two  or  three 
months  in  Florida  at  an  expenditure  of  no  more  than  a 
hundred  dollars,  the  only  mode  of  living  practicable 
will  be  in  the  open  air.  To  many  of  our  readers,  whose 
camp-fires  have  gleamed  in  every  corner  of  the  Union, 
the  proposition  to  camp  in  such  a  wild  and  delightful 
climate  as  that  of  Florida  would  be  hailed  as  likely  to 
give  the  "substance  of  things  hoped  for."  Let  those 
who  wish,  patronize  the  hotels  at  a  monthly  expense 
exceeding  our  total  outlay  for  the  winter's  trip.  Camp 
ing  out,  then,  is  to  be  the  manner  of  living,  and  to  do 
that  successfully  a  tent  is  needed.  If  desired,  this 
luxury  can  be  dispensed  with  and  a  shelter  constructed 
with  the  stalks  and  leaves  of  the  palmetto.  To  one 
"  handy "  with  an  axe  and  knife,  and  an  old  cam 
paigner,  this  house-building  would  be  a  small  matter. 
It  is  assumed,  however,  that  the  party  be  ignorant  of  all 
that  pertains  to  camp  life,  and  needs  to  go  provided 
with  a  shelter  from  the  elements.  Now  tents  can  be 
bought  in  any  variety,  but  what  is  really  needed  is — 
first,  strength  to  withstand  the  weather,  and  the 
greatest  amount  of  room  consistent  with  weight  and 
bulk.  A  tent,  large  enough  for  a  party  of  four,  with 
room  for  "  traps,"  and  provisions  for  two  months,  can 
be  made  at  an  expense  of  about  $15,  if  made  by  the 
party,  and  of  light,  waterproof  drilling.  It  should  be 
about  twelve  feet  long,  with  walls  about  four  feet  high, 
4 


7-i  TIIKKE    MONTHS    IX    FLORIDA 

and  slanting  roof,  with  ridge-pole  six  or  seven  feet  from 
the  ground.  Should  be  made  so  that  it  can  be  tightly 
closed  at  times.  Fifteen  dollars  for  a  tent,  and  thirty 
dollars  for  passage  down,  amount  to  forty-five  dollars 
already  expended.  Can  we  provision  and  provide  for 
the  welfare  of  the  party  with  the  remainder  ?  Let 
us  see. 

After  the  tent-poles  are  cut,  at  the  place  of  camping, 
which  should  be  upon  fresh  ground,  in  a  rather  airy 
situation  and  tolerably  near  wood  and  water,  the  tent  is 
pitched,  and  we  have  a  habitation.  If  a  party  of  four 
start  together  something  is  saved  to  each  individual,  as 
the  labor  and  expense  of  freight,  etc.,  is  much  less,  borne 
individually.  While  one  is  driving  tent-pins,  and 
another  cutting  wood  for  fire,  another  can  be  preparing 
the  food  for  cooking,  while  the  fourth  is  hunting  for  the 
long  Spanish  moss  (Tillandsia),  for  bedding.  Provis 
ions  demand  the  first  attention,  and,  in  this  matter 
alone,  much  will  depend  upon  the  tastes  of  the  camper- 
out.  Having  but  fifty  odd  dollars,  and  having  many 
wants  to  supply,  some  very  close  skirmishing  must  ensue 
between  actual  and  imaginary  wants.  It  will  be 
admitted  that  we  must  have  pork.  Without  that  the 
camper-out  could  hardly  exist.  It  fries  his  potatoes 
(provided  there  be  a  fire),  cooks  his  flapjacks  (if  he  has 
any),  and  spatters  and  sizzles  over  a  "  light-wood  "  fire 
in  a  w;iy  that,  in  itself,  is  refreshing  to  a  hungry  hunter. 
Pork,  then,  must  be  taken,  say  fifty  pounds  ;  this  may 
be  enough  and  it  may  not  ;  there  may  be  an  abundance 
of  venison,  when  the  pork  will,  of  course,  be  consigned 
temporarily  to  solitary  confinement  ;  but  the  chances 
are,  that  pork  will  appear  upon  the  table,  or  palmetto 
leaf,  three  times  and  more,  a  day.  Pork  $5  ;  dry  salted 


FOR  A   HUNDRED   DOLLARS.  75 

is  best  for  transportation,  and  a   coarse   bag,  denom 
inated  "gunny-bag,"  the  best  receptacle  for  it. 

Flour,  some  persons  may  need  to  be  told,  is  some 
times  called  the  staff  of  life.  That  depends  wholly 
where  it  is.  In  some  places  it  is  made  of  secondary 
importance  to  whiskey,  and  the  true  Floridian  regards 
the  fluid  that  cheers,  likewise  inebriates,  as  the  real  staff 
and  mainstay  of  his  existence.  When  the  whiskey  is 
gone  he  is  gone.  When  the  popularly  known  "staff"  is 
gone,  he  can  repair  to  the  nearest  hammock  and  cut  a 
"palmeeter  cabbage; "but  no  satisfactory  substitute 
exists  indigenous  to  Florida  for  the  much-loved  whiskey. 
Flour  for  one  person,  two  months,  sixty  pounds.  Bet 
ter  take  the  self-raising  flour,  either  Hecker's  or  Jewell 
Brothers'  ;  being  in  convenient  packages,  and  ready  for 
use  by  the  addition  of  a  little  water,  and  a  stick  (not 
the  metaphorical  "stick"),  it  is  much  prized,  and  saves 
a  great  deal  of  labor.  With  the  flour  costing  about  $3, 
and  a  box  of  good  crackers  (better  than  flour,  because 
always  ready  cooked),  costing  as  much  more,  one  will  be 
prepared  with  all  the  farinaceous  food  he  needs  during 
his  stay.  A  few  pounds  of  meal,  costing  nothing  worth 
calculating,  should  be  added.  A  bushel  or  a  barrel  of 
good  potatoes  is  necessary,  and  if  those  give  out,  sweet 
potatoes  can  be  purchased  at  a  dollar  per  bushel  or  less. 
Out  upon  the  man  who  would  exclude  the  potato  as  a 
luxury  dispensable.  We  can  afford  it  in  the  quantity 
desired,  even  with  so  small  a  balance  remaining  of  our 
hundred  dollars.  Who  does  not  remember  the  delicious, 
delicate,  fragile  conceptions  of  potatoes  sliced  and  pre 
pared  at  the  highest  class  restaurants  ?  At  least,  who 
does  not  remember  reading  of  them  ?  Two  dollars  fifty 
for  potatoes,  and  as  much  more  for  coffee.  Nothing  so 


76  THREE   MOXTHS   IX   FLORIDA 

helps  to  strengthen  one  after  a  heavy  tramp,  or  long 
hunt,  as  a  cup  of  good  coffee.  Carry  it  whole,  brown  it 
in  the  frying-pan  and  pound  it  in  a  shot-bag  with  a 
axe.  Thus  it  will  be  kept  until  needed,  of  refreshing 
strength  and  aroma.  The  condensed  coffee  is  liked  by 
some,  and  if  it  suits  the  taste,  should  be  taken,  as  it 
saves  much  in  bulk  and  preparation.  A  dollar  more 
needs  to  be  added  for  this  substitute.  A  little  sugar,  of 
course,  unless  one  prefers  "long  sweetening,"  which 
latter  is  more  liable  to  loss,  being  un-pick-up-able  when 
spilt.  A  dozen  cans  of  condensed  milk,  costing  about 
three  dollars,  will  last  a  single  person  a  long  time.  If 
this  is  taken,  the  sugar  may  be  dispensed  with  ;  if  it  is 
not,  then  take  three  dollars'  worth  of  cu  t  loaf  sugar.  In 
a  land  of  sugar-cane  one  need  not  be  without  sweetening 
for  his  coffee.  Salt  and  pepper,  a  few  pickles,  or 
pickled  onions,  and  a  little  condensed  beef,  in  all  not 
exceeding  three  dollars  ;  to  which  may  be  added,  very 
gratefully,  a  choice  list  of  delicacies,  but  they  will  not 
be  allowed  in  this  bill,  as  we  haven't  got  any  further 
than  the  larder,  and  have  expended  sixty-eight  dollars 
already.  The  indispensable  cooking  utensils  are  few. 
First,  as  the  chief  friend  of  the  camper-out,  is  the  fry 
ing-pan.  Never  omit  it.  Let  it  receive  early  attention. 
It  should  be  a  foot  in  diameter,  well  made  of  wrought 
iron,  and  with  a  IOIKJ  handle.  The  handle  is  especially 
marked  long  in  italics  for  the  benefit  of  the  novice  in 
cooking  over  an  open  fire. 

Next  in  order  is  the  bake  kettle,  an  article  once  in 
use  among  our  ancestors  a  hundred  years  ago,  or  so,  in 
the  good  old  times  ;  and  to  be  found  in  every  ' '  cracker  " 
family  at  the  South  at  the  present  day.  The  camper- 
out  cannot  do  without  it.  It  should  be  at  least  a  foot 


FOR  A  HUNDRED  DOLLARS.  77 

in  diameter,  and  cost,  with  the  frying-pan,  not  over  $3. 
A  quart  tin  cup,  a  tin  plate,  a  knife  and  fork,  and 
spoon,  will  be  seen  only  to  be  appreciated  by  the  know 
ing  one.  These  may  be  duplicated,  as  the  loss  of  either, 
though  not  wholly  irreparable,  might  occasion  discom 
fort.  They  cost  but  little,  say  a  dollar  or  so.  A  sharp 
knife  should  be  in  camp,  but  we  are  not  Yankees  if  we 
do  not  have  a  jack-knife  in  our  pocket.  An  axe  or 
hatchet  should  certainly  be  taken,  say  $1  for  a  hatchet. 
A  few  matches,  candles,  a  little  soap,  salve  for  bruises, 
and  liniment  perhaps,  should  be  taken,  and  two  dollars 
will  cover  the  whole  bill. 

As  no  extra  expense  is  entailed  in  respect  to  clothing, 
nothing  will  be  allowed  for  its  purchase.  If  anything, 
there  should  be  credit  given  for  the  amount  saved  by 
wearing  old  clothes  the  entire  winter.  Aim  to  dress 
comfortably,  and  be  able  at  times  to  dress  warmly. 
Take  a  good  stock  of  old  cast-off  clothing,  and  remember 
to  donate  it  when  you  leave,  for  the  benefit  of  some  one 
— you  are  sure  to  meet  him — poorer  than  yourself. 
Wear  woollen  shirts  and  stockings,  old  trousers  and 
boots,  and  light,  broad-brimmed  felt  hat.  Take  one 
pair  water-proof  leather  boots,  but  rely  mainly  upon 
easy  fitting  shoes.  An  old  overcoat  is  most  acceptable 
at  times,  for,  though  the  temperature  will  rarely  descend 
below  35  or  40  degrees,  it  will  certainly,  at  times,  reach 
to  28  degrees,  and  then  the  unprotected  ones  shiver. 
It  is  at  night,  however,  that  it  is  cold,  and  good  blan 
kets  are  necessary.  At  least  one  pair  army  blankets, 
costing  about  $6.  Rubber  blanket,  or  better,  a  good 
"  poncho,"  costing  $2.  A  mosquito  net,  or  bar,  of  fine 
lawn  or  mosquito  netting,  is  absolutely  necessary,  as 
mosquitoes  and  sand-flies  fairly  revel  at  times,  and  at 


78  THREE   MONTHS  Itf   FLORIDA 

such  times — generally  when  the  camper-out  most  desires 
repose — commit  insufferable  depredations.  Make  the 
bar  of  fine  lawn  or  cotton  cloth  six  feet  long,  four  broad, 
and  three  high.  This  will  shelter  two  persons,,  or  ought 
to,  and  will  cost  about  $2.  A  pocket  compass  is  some 
times  very  valuable  to  one  travelling  in  the  woods,  and 
as  he  will  not  want  to  remain  at  all  times  in  close 
vicinage  to  camp,  and  as  the  faculty  of  direction  is  not 
generally  sufficiently  developed  in  an  amateur  to  enable 
him  to  wander  far  into  the  swamps  without  getting  lost", 
one  had  better  be  taken.  Expend  a  few  dollars  in  fish 
lines  ;  good,  strong  bass  lines  and  hooks,  and  some 
smaller  ones  for  shecpshead  and  smaller  fish.  These, 
with  the  expense  of  freight,  will  take  at  least  five  dol 
lars,  making  a  total  expense  for  the  whole  trip  of  ninety 
dollars.  This  leaves  $10  for  contingent  expenses,  which, 
by  a  judicious  expenditure,  may  be  made  to  conduce 
materially  to  the  comfort  of  the  camper-out.  I  flatter 
myself  that  the  amount  would  not  have  remained  had  I 
not,  by  very  careful  calculation,  reduced  his  wants  to 
the  minimum.  Do  not  cast  about  for  some  means  of 
spending  this  sum,  though  it  may  burn  the  pocket ;  it 
is  best  to  retain  a  grip  upon  it,  at  least  until  the  very 
last  week  of  camping.  By  the  addition  of  a  few  dollars 
one  can  secure  a  most  convenient  arrangement  called  a 
"  camp  kit,"  containing  everything  desirable  for  cooking 
in  a  small  space.  In  a  large  pail  is  packed  frying-pan, 
plates,  knives,  forks,  etc. — in  fact,  everything  necessary 
to  the  wants  of  a  party  of  six,  for  the  sum  of  a  dozen 
dollars.  And  then  there  is  the  portable  stove,  which, 
weighing  but  little  and  small  in  compass,  will  prove  a 
blessing  in  any  camp.  A  kerosene  stove  is  very  con 
venient,  but  will  necessitate  carrying  fuel,  while  for 


FOR  A   HUNDRED   DOLLARS.  79 

the  camp  stove,  the  fuel  is  at  hand,  only  needing  to  be 
cut.  I  speak  of  these  things  lest  any  one  should  think 
me  regardless  of  their  comfort.  It  is  possible  that  some 
desiderata  may  be  omitted,  but  the  main  desires  and 
wants,  at  least,  are  provided  for.  In  provisions  there 
may  not  be  quite  enough,  but  I  think  what  I  have  enu 
merated  will  cover  the  wants  of  a  winter's  stay.  Fish 
and  game  will  very  likely  aid  greatly  in  providing  for 
your  wants  ;  but  then  fish  are  sometimes  very  perverse 
and  will  not  bite,  and  turkeys,  quail,  and  deer  will  per 
sist  in  secluding  themselves  in  inaccessible  places.  That 
ten  dollars  should  be  sufficient  to  cover  all  extra  outlay 
for  provisions.  Now  I  expect  some  cavilling  person 
will  say,  "  You  haven't  provided  gun  or  boat,  nor  many 
other  things  necessary  to  one's  comfort  in  a  land  un 
known  to  him." 

I  know  that.  I  didn't  agree  to  ;  merely  promised  to 
take  you  to  Florida  and  back,  giving  a  month  on  the 
water,  two  on  land,  for  one  hundred  dollars.  I  have 
done  more  than  that.  I  have  provided  for  your  wants 
for  that  period,  not  taking  into  consideration  the  fact  that 
your  bare  board  at  the  North  would  cost  you  twice  the 
amount  it  will  to  camp.  You  haven't  allowed  for  the 
value  of  the  cooking  utensils,  blankets,  etc.,  after  they 
have  served  your  purpose,  and  you  do  not  consider, 
though  it  is  true  as  gospel,  that  you  have,  if  an  ordi 
nary  man,  saved  at  least  half  the  expense  of  clothing 
a  winter's  residence  at  the  North  would  necessitate. 
Really  the  trip  to  Florida  has  cost  you  nothing,  and  with 
a  little  more  time  and  "  figgerin'  "  I  might  perhaps 
show  that  you  had  made  money  by  the  venture.  Any 
way,  you  will  come  back  with  a  renewed  lease  of  life,  and 
rejoicing  in  regained  strength,  which  of  themselves,  are 


80  THEEE   MONTHS   IX   FLORIDA 

inestimable  and  incalculable.  A  gun,  by  all  means, 
should  be  taken,  and  if  the  choice  lies  between  shot  gun 
and  rifle,  take  the  former.  With  a  shot  gun  one  can 
secure  a  greater  variety  of  game  than  with  a  rifle,  and 
should  be  able  to  supply  the  camp.  Do  not  get  a  muzzle, 
if  you  can  procure  a  breech-loader.  There  is  no  com 
parison  between  them,  and  it  is  universally  conceded 
that  the  breech-loader  surpasses  in  safety,  and  rapidity  of 
loading  and  firing.  There  is  little  choice  in  the  various 
kinds,  except  in  price  ;  they  are  all  generally  safe  enough, 
and  the  choice  of  selection  will  depend  mainly  upon 
the  length  of  the  purchaser's  purse.  Eifles  are  of  all 
prices,  from  the  cheapest  second-hand  at  $10  to  the  latest 
and  best  Remington.  A  revolver  is  sometimes  useful, 
but  not  necessary,  unless  one  is  expert  enough  to  kill 
small  game  with  it.  My  word  for  it,  there  will  be  no 
occasion,  unless  one  visits  the  wilder  portions  of  Florida, 
for  its  use  upon  larger  game,  if  I  may  except  an  infre 
quent  chance  at  deer  or  turkey.  Take  a  few  steel  or 
brass  shells  for  the  breech-loader,  but  let  the  bulk  of 
them  be  paper,  which,  costing  but  $1  per  hundred,  can 
be  thrown  away  after  discharged,  and  thus  much  weight 
of  carriage  and  annoyance  avoided.  By  oiling  them 
well  they  will  not  stick  in  the  breech,  and  will  prove 
everyway  serviceable.  Carry  a  quarter-keg  (6^  Ibs.)  of 
good  powder,  as  it  can  be  readily  exchanged  for  other 
tilings,  if  not  all  needed.  In  shot,  take  three  sizes  :  a 
few  pounds  of  buck  ;  ten  pounds  No.  2,  and  ten  of  No. 
G  or  8.  This  will  give  sufficient  variety  without  too 
great  weight.  If  caps  arc  taken,  choose  the  best  Eley's. 
The  cheaper  grade  of  water-proof,  at  about  $1  per  m.,  is 
good  enough. 

And  now,  if  one  would  enjoy  himself  to  the  fullest 


FOR  A  HUNDRED   DOLLARS.  81 

extent,  let  him  take  a  boat.  Whether  he  camp  on  the 
coast  or  the  St.  Johns,  he  will  find  himself  sadly  at  loss 
for  means  of  conveyance,  unless  he  has  a  boat  of  his  own. 
Good  boats  are  scarce  in  Florida,  out  of  the  cities,  and 
cannot  be  obtained.  It  is  not  necessary  that  it  be  valu 
able  or  fast  sailing,  but  it  should  combine  safety  with 
lightness  and  buoyancy.  For  merely  coasting  about  the 
creeks  and  quiet  portions  of  the  inlets,  a  light  boat,  like 
a  "  dory,"  or  gunning  skiff,  is  all  that  is  needed.  But 
for  more  extended  trips,  a  larger  one,  built  upon  the 
same  pattern,  is  what  is  wanted.  When  not  in  use,  it 
should  be  drawn  upon  the  sand  and  covered  with  pal 
metto  leaves  to  keep  the  sun  from  warping  it.  A  coat 
of  copper  paint  is  necessary  to  prevent  the  worms,  in  the 
brackish  waters  of  the  coast,  from  riddling  it  with  holes. 

It  is  thought  that  everything  is  now  provided  for  a 
three  months'  trip,  and  after  a  few  words  regarding  the 
drawbacks  to  enjoyment  to  be  met  in  Florida,  as  else 
where,  this  paper  will  be  brought  to  a  close. 

Of  the  many  annoyances  incident  to  a  camp  life  in 
Florida,  the  insects  take  first  rank.  In  fact,  there  are 
no  other  real  causes  for  complaint.  Mosquitoes  undoubt 
edly  take  precedence  of  all  others  as  the  most  blood 
thirsty,  persistent,  and  numerous.  They  cannot  be 
entirely  avoided,  though  they  may  be  kept  at  bay  by  the 
use  of  a  good  mosquito  bar,  large  enough  to  cover  blank 
ets  and  bedding  at  night ;  in  the  day  time  their  depreda 
tions  are  confined  to  SAvamps  and  dark  places.  The 
sand-flies,  which  sometimes  appear  in  clouds,  bite  like  a 
bull-terrier,  and  sting  like  a  red-hot  iron.  They  will 
crawl  into  your  hair,  nose,  ears,  unless  much  care  is 
used,  and  withal,  are  undesirable  neighbors.  They  bite 
principally  in  early  morning  and  evening,  but  are  very 
4' 


82  THREE   MONTHS   IN   FLORIDA 

uncertain,  and  put  in  an  appearance  when  least  expected 
or  desired.  The  mosquito  is  bad,  the  sand-fly  is  worse, 
but  neither  can  hold  a  candle  (figuratively  speaking),  to 
the  flea.  In  many  things  the  flea,  the  wicked  flea,  is 
wholly  unapproachable.  He  can  jump  farthest,  hold 
his  wind  longest,  and  bite  the  cussedest  of  any  members 
of  his  tribe.  Of  all  things  the  most  annoying,  he  holds 
on,  hits  hard,  and  his  persecutions  end  only  with  his 
death.  He  is  a  regular  hard-shell  Baptist ;  and  if  there 
is  no  place  of  future  punishment  in  his  creed,  his  victim 
fervently  hopes  there  is  one  for  fleas.  If  one  of  these 
crustaceans  take  up  his  abode  with  you,  it  is  for  life, 
and  should  at  once  be  hunted  down.  But  the  flea  is  not 
indigenous  to  Florida,  as  is  well  known,  and  he  has  no 
particular  State  for  habitat,  though  dwelling  only  in 
certain  places.  If  the  camp  be  pitched  in  an  old  plan 
tation,  or  near  a  family  of  crackers,  where  canine  and 
porcine  quadrupeds  do  abound,  then  look  out  for  fleas. 
Camp  on  fresh  ground,  near  no  plantation,  deserted  or 
occupied  ;  allow  no  dogs,  hogs,  or  flea-haunted  men  near, 
and  you  may  be  exempt  from  their  ravages.  Should  a 
flea  obtain  a  lodgment  in  your  garments  (you  will  know 
it  at  once),  lose  no  time  in  doffing  your  clothes  and  insti 
tuting  a  thorough  and  vigorous  search.  Remain  out  a 
week  rather  than  carry  him  to  camp.  These  are  extreme 
measures,  not  recommended — only  suggested. 

Scorpions  sometimes  alarm  the  camper  by  suddenly 
appearing  from  under  an  overturned  piece  of  bark,  or 
perhaps  from  under  a  blanket.  They  are  not  very  com 
mon,  and  their  sting,  though  painful,  is  not  fatal. 
There  is  no  danger  from  them  unless  suddenly  grasped  or 
confined  in  the  clothing.  They  are  very  disagreeable 
visitors,  however,  and  one  that  I  happened  to  take  in  my 


FOR  A   HUNDRED   DOLLARS.  83 

•* 

hand  once,  gave  a  rude  shock  to  my  nerves,  though  it 
did  not  bite.  'Tis  said  that  salt  and  vinegar,  or  ammo 
nia,  are  antidotes,  placed  upon  the  sting.  As  prevent 
ives  for  bites  of  mosquitoes  take  tar  and  oil  and  smear 
the  face,  and  hands,  though  there  is  a  feeling  against 
such  a  remedy.  Ammonia  is  recommended,  though  of 
little  use.  Fear  of  snakes  is  almost  wholly  groundless. 
Though  many  varieties  exist  in  Florida,  there  are  but 
two  to  be  feared,  the  moccasin  and  rattlesnake.  The 
former  is  in  great  abundance  in  the  swamps,  though  the 
rattlesnake  is  not  common.  Both  are  exceedingly  veno 
mous,  and  their  bites  speedily  prove  fatal.  There  is  lit 
tle  clanger  to  be  apprehended,  except  from  snakes  in 
the  grass  ;  the  danger  being  in  stepping  upon  one  un 
awares.  There  are  many  remedies,  which  may  be  spoken 
of  in  the  next  article,  but  the  one  surest  in  effect  and 
most  generally  in  use  is  whiskey  in  large  doses  and  soon 
taken.  This  may  account  for  the  general  and  wide-spread 
use  of  that  article,  as  it  is  in  great  demand,  and  there 
are  many  who  believe  that  a  pound  of  prevention  is 
worth  an  ounce  of  cure,  and  act  accordingly. 

Healthfullness  of  the  country  is  the  first  considera 
tion.  It  has  been  abundantly  and  conclusively  shown 
that  Florida  is  tolerably  free  from  any  endemic  disease. 
The  climate  of  the  coast  is  remarkably  salubrious  and 
conducive  to  health.  Except  in  the  near  vicinage  of 
swamps,  and  along  the  rivers  and  fresh-water  lakes 
in  summer,  there  is  no  cause  for  alarm,  and  one  can 
preserve  his  health  with  tolerable  care.  A  winter's  resi 
dence  in  any  section  of  Florida  is  not  likely  to  give  one 
what  is  so  universally  and  justly  dreaded — the  "shakes." 
I  have  camped  in  swamps  and  marshes  night  after  night, 
and  passed  weeks  upon  the  banks  of  rivers  and  lakes, 


84  THREE   MONTHS   IN   FLORIDA. 

with  no  covering  over  me  at  night  except  my  blanket 
and  mosquito  bur,  and  have  yet  to  feel  the  slightest 
touch  of  fever.  I  have  known  of  instances  of  fever  the 
first  season,  but  do  not  think  the  disease  was  contracted 
there.  So  far  as  my  observation  extends,  I  am  inclined 
to  agree  fully  with  one  better  qualified  to  judge  than 
myself,  that  "  Florida  possesses  a  much  more  agreeable 
and  salubrious  climate  than  any  other  State  or  Territory 
in  the  Union." 

FRED  BEVERLY. 


VIII. 

SUPPLEMENTARY  HINTS  FOE  CHEAP 
RECREATION. 


first  consideration  to  the  winter  visitor  to 
JL  Florida,  is  the  climate,  which  is  delightful.  I  do 
not  think  so  agreeable  a  place  can  be  found  in  the  United 
States.  I  am  not  so  good  a  judge  of  the  winter  climate 
of  California,  having  spent  but  one  winter  there,  and 
think  the  climate  of  Florida  much  more  dry,  five  days 
out  of  six  bright  and  cloudless  ;  three,  four,  and  five 
weeks  at  a  time,  clear  and  bright,  and  of  most  agree 
able  temperature,  and  even  as  far  north  as  Palatka  there 
are  generally  but  two  or  three  nights  in  the  whole 
winter  that  ice  is  formed.  Rain  rarely  falls,  and  this  is 
the  great  charm  of  winter  climate,  and  enables  the 
sportsman  to  be  comfortable  in  his  tent,  when  in  Georgia, 
Texas,  or  California,  he  would  wish  himself  in  the  hotel. 
The  whole  coast,  east  and  west,  swarms  with  fish,  and 
of  a  very  fine  quality  ;  pompano,  sheepshead,  grouper, 
red-fish,  king-fish,  Spanish  mackerel,  mullet,  turtle,  and 
such  oysters  —  for  flavor  and  size  they  beat  anything  to 
be  found  North.  The  St.  Johns  river  is  also  full  of  fish. 
Shad  are  plenty  all  winter,  and  in  the  upper  parts  of 
the  river  black  bass  were  so  plenty  as  to  often  jump 
into  our  boats,  and  eight  to  ten  pounders  are  very  com 
mon.  Game,  except  quail,  is  getting  scarce  about  the 


86  SUPPLEMENTARY   IIIXTS 

larger  places  ;  but  you  have  only  to  go  into  the  country 
to  find  abundance  of  deer  and  turkey. 

When  I  commenced,  I  intended  from  my  experience 
to  tell  of  a  more  pleasant  way  to  spend  winters  in 
Florida  than  Mr.  Beverly's  (provided  you  have  money 
enough),  and  without  costing  near  as  much  as  to  live  at 
the  hotels,  have  a  better  table,  and  lots  of  fine  sport, 
and  withal  the  most  comfortable  and  pleasant  way  a 
company  of  gentlemen  can  spend  winters  in  Florida. 
Let  a  half  dozen  good  fellows  get  up  a  light-draft  stera- 
wlieel  steamer,  to  draw  about  twenty  inches  of  water — 
just  such  a  boat  as  the  little  Clifton,  so  well  known  on 
the  St.  Johns  river  for  several  years.  The  writer  was  on 
board  of  her  for  two  winters.  She  cost  about  $4,000, 
built  and  fitted  up  at  Philadelphia,  was  used  four  or  five 
winters  as  a  pleasure-boat,  and  then  sold  for  a  ferry-boat 
without  much  loss.  Three  men  made  up  the  crew. 
The  whole  expense  was  about  $15  each  day,  which, 
divided  among  six,  was  not  high  for  such  fishing  and 
hunting  as  we  used  to  get  ;  and  such  bird  suppers  as 
Keuben  could  get  up  I  never  expect  to  see  again.  This 
boat  was  built  by  a  party  of  gentlemen  from  Clifton 
Springs,  New  York,  and  run  down  from  Philadelphia. 
One  could  be  got  up  much  cheaper  now,  in  Jacksonville. 
Such  a  boat  can  go  to  the  upper  waters  of  the  St.  Johns, 
above  where  hunters  go,  and  where  game  is  plenty. 
The  St.  Johns  is  a  wonderful  river,  and  one  of  great 
magnitude,  and  it  has  always  been  a  wonder  to  me  where 
so  much  fresh  water  conies  from.  It  runs  from  south 
to  north,  is  over  300  miles  long,  and  in  many  places  is 
very  near  the  coast.  It  appears  more  like  a  beautiful 
chain  of  lakes,  for  more  than  a  hundred  miles  from 
its  mou tli,  and  will  average  nearly  two  miles  Avide, 


FOR  CHEAP  RECREATION.  87 

for  that  distance.  The  tide  is  felt  as  far  up  as  Pilatka, 
and  what  appears  singular,  when  it  is  high  water  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river  it  is  low  tide  at  Jacksonville.  Visi 
tors  should  always  go  up  as  far  as  Enterprise,  to  see  the 
beautiful  lakes  and  wonderful  springs.  We  could  not 
get  the  Clifton  much  above  Lake  Winder.  A  floating 
island  covered  with  willows  had  drifted  across  the  chan 
nel,  and  we  could  only  get  up  in  small  boats  to  Lake 
Washington.  We  found  Lake  Winder  a  fine  place  for 
game  ;  deer  and  turkeys  where  very  abundant,  and  more 
snipe  than  we  had  seen  in  Florida.  We  also  found 
many  birds  which  we  did  not  see  about  Lakes  Harney  and 
Jessup.  The  carrocca  eagle,  in  full,  light  plumage,  was 
common  ;  also  the  purple  gallinule,  coast  bittern,  yellow- 
crowned  night  heron ;  and  we  found  many  extensive 
breeding  places.  This  is  the  home  of  the  alligators,  and 
they  used  to  trouble  us  by  getting  our  birds  as  they  fell 
into  the  water,  before  we  could  get  to  them.  Sport  can 
be  had  with  alligators  by  bating  a  shark  hook  with  a 
coot,  or  some  other  bird.  Fasten  the  end  of  the  rope  to 
the  top  of  a  small  tree  that  bends  well,  and  in  the  morn 
ing  you  are  almost  sure  to  find  one  hooked.  If  a  large 
one,  you  can  only  pull  him  into  the  bank  ;  if  a  small  one, 
keep  away  from  his  tail,  or  teeth,  and  to  get  your 
hook,  after  you  are  done  playing  with  him,  you  must 
shoot  him.  In  their  stomachs  you  will  most  always  find 
a  roll  of  feathers,  fish,  and  often  large  moccasin  snakes, 
and  they  sometimes  eat  one  another.  I  have  seen  one, 
eight  feet  long,  in  a  large  one's  mouth.  Favorite  birds 
for  our  party  to  shoot  were  the  white-plumed  cranes, 
egrets,  snowy  herons,  for  their  plumes ;  and  we  could 
make  quite  good  collections  of  Florida  bird  skins.  The 
steamer  had  two  small  boats,  so  we  could  go  up  the 


88  SUPPLEMENTARY   HINTS 

small  creeks  ;  and  we  explored  most  every  lake  and 
stream  on  the  river.  Although  we  were  so  far  south,  we 
had  no  trouble  with  insects.  All  the  windows  had  wire 
gauze,  and  we  were  careful  to  keep  the  doors  shut.  Our 
sleeping  accommodations  and  our  dining  room  were  very 
good.  The  boat  would  run  about  ten  miles  an  hour, 
and  we  could  change  our  location  very  easily.  We 
found  moccasin  snakes  very  abundant  in  the  upper 
country,  but  had  no  trouble  with  them.  One  day  wo 
lost  a  rowlock  from  the  boat,  and  proposed  to  the  black 
man,  Bill,  to  take  off  his  clothes  and  get  it  up  with  his 
feet.  As  he  reached  the  bottom  he  stepped  on  a  large 
snake,  which  coiled  about  his  leg.  He  went  ashore  with 
a  yell,  and  one  of  our  party  said  he  was  the  whitest  man 
in  the  lot.  lie  was  sure  he  was  bit,  and  kept  hold  of 
his  pulse  to  see  if  he  was  not  dying ;  but  was  not  hurt. 
The  snake  appeared  as  much  frightened  as  Bill.  We 
saw  very  few  rattlesnakes.  One  of  our  party,  Mr.  Rice, 
at  Lake  Jessup,  shot  a  white  heron  that  fell  into  the 
water  near  the  shore,  lie  saw  a  large  alligator  start 
for  the  bird,  and  Rice  thought  he  could  get  the 
bird  before  the  alligator,  which  he  did,  and  threw  the 
bird  over  his  shoulder,  the  alligator  following ;  and  as 
lie  reached  the  bank  the  alligator  struck  his  legs,  but  did 
him  no  damage.  I  have  made  this  paper  too  long,  and 
can  recommend  for  real  comfort  such  a  cruise.  Such 
a  steamer,  after  going  up  the  St.  Johns  river  could  be 
taken  around  to  St.  Augustine,  and  so  down  to  Indian 
river,  and  the  expense  less  than  to  live  at  the  hotels. 

.  A.  BOARDMAN. 


FOR  CHEAP  RECREATION.  89 


ANOTHER  PLAN   FOR  CHEAP  RECREATION. 

It  has  been  stated  that  the  trip  to  Enterprise  from 
Jacksonville  will  cost  $12,  and  to  return  $12 ;  entire 
trip,  $24.  A  large  portion  of  this  expenditure  can  be 
advantageously  saved  by  the  tourists  making  the  trip  in 
a  small  boat.  If  the  seeker  for  pleasure  camps  out  at  a 
particular  point  on  the  river,  he  will  soon  tire  of  a  daily 
view  of  the  same  objects,  and  crave  for  pastures  new.  A 
person  who  proposes  spending  several  months  in  the  State 
would  find  a  boat  journey  pleasant,  as  well  as  instructive. 

Let  two  or  three  excursionists  unite  and  purchase  a 
second-hand  batteau  about  eighteen  feet  long,  which  can 
be  obtained  at  from  twenty  to  thirty  dollars  in  any  of 
our  Northern  cities ;  supply  her  with  centreboard, 
rudder,  and  a  sprit,  or  leg-of-mutton  sail,  costing  in  the 
aggregate  from  thirty-five  to  forty-five  dollars.  We  vis 
ited  Jacksonville  a  few  days  since,  and  made  inquiries 
regarding  the  price  of  boats,  and  we  have  reason  to 
believe  that  the  boat  would  prove  a  safe  investment,  and 
bring  cost  price  ;  if  the  boat  was  even  abandoned  at  end 
of  trip,  her  purchase  would  prove  a  more  profitable  in 
vestment  than  paying  for  passage  up  and  down  the  river. 
From  Jacksonville  to  Pilatka,  and  at  other  points  along 
the  river,  a  sail  can  be  used  as  a  means  of  effecting  a 
change  of  base  :  and  when  old  Boreas  fails  in  his  atten 
tions,  an  "  ashen  breeze  "  can  be  used  ad  libitum,  and  the 
river  ascended  at  from  two  to  three  miles  per  hour. 
With  a  boat,  the  tourists  could  examine  the  various 
tributaries  and  lakes  en  route,  and  visit  unfrequented 
localities,  where  excellent  hunting  and  fishing  can  be  se 
cured.  At  Enterprise  the  tourists  could  secure  a  stock 


90  SUPPLEMENTARY   JIIXTS 

of  provisions,  ascend  the  river  to  Lakes  Winder  and 
Washington,  and  enjoy  hunting  and  fishing  in  localities 
seldom  visited  by  sportsmen. 

Having  lived  in  tents  in  more  than  one  portion  of 
the  world,  I  Hatter  myself  that  I  am  an  authority  on 
nomadic  subjects,  and  must  dill'er  with  your  correspond 
ent  regarding  the  construction  of  tents,  lie  recom 
mends  one  "  with  walls  four  feet  high,"  but  trampers  will 
find  an  A -shaped  tent,  seven  feet  to  ridge,  nine  feet  deep 
and  seven  feet  wide,  the  most  portable,  easiest  to  pitch, 
best  to  shed  rain,  coolest  under  a  hot  sun,  and  last,  though 
not  least,  the  cheapest  and  easiest  to  make  by  the  unin 
itiated.  The  cost  of  the  material,  at  eighteen  cents  per 
yard,  would  be  about  five  dollars,  and  the  trampers 
could  make  it  on  board  of  the  vessel  before  reaching 
Jacksonville. 

Food  is  an  important  item,  and  a  proper  fit-out  in 
the  way  of  fishing  tackle  and  sporting  appliances  would 
add  to  the  culinary  department  as  well  as  curtail  expen 
diture  for  eatables.  If  unsupplied  witli  strong-jointed 
rods,  we  would  advise  the  excursionists  to  provide  them 
selves,  before  leaving  the  North,  with  four  strong  Japan 
cane  rods  (not  bamboo,)  a  few  spinners  and  spoons,  and 
some  strong  lines  and  Virginia,  Limerick,  or  Chcstertown 
hooks.  A  mess  of  trout  (bass)  can  be  captured  at  any 
time  by  trolling  with  a  spinner  and  line  from  GO  to  120 
feet  in  length,  in  open  water.  But  as  lily  puds  exist  in 
many  lakes,  ponds,  and  rivers,  a  bob  must  be  used.  A 
very  useful  bob  can  be  made  by  tying  a  few  scarlet  feath 
ers  to  a  strong  hook.  Line  to  be  about  three  feet  in 
length,  and  attached  to  the  end  of  a  long  and  stout  pole. 
One  must  cautiously  row  the  boat,  and  another  skitter 
the  open  pluccs  between  the  lily  pads.  When  a  fish  is 


FOR   CHEAP  RECREATION".  91 

hooked,  the  fisherman  must  haul  in  his  rod  hand  over 
hand,  for  if  a  large  fish  is  allowed  to  play  among  the  lily 
pads,  and  foul  the  line,  the  excursionists  will  be  apt  to 
retire  to  roost  supperless.  The  above  has  not  been 
written  for  the  benefit  of  experts  ;  but  for  those  whose 
larder  may  require  replenishing.  The  artistic  mode  of 
fishing  for  trout  (bass)  is  with  rod,  reel,  float,  and  min 
now  in  open  water.  The  uninitiated  will  ask,  How  am  I 
to  capture  minnows  in  the  wilderness,  where  earth-worms 
cannot  be  secured  for  bait  ?  I  am  disposed  to  aid  the 
greenhorn,  and  would  advise  him  to  examine  the  stems 
of  the  lily  pads,  and  in  many  of  them  he  will  discover  a 
small  hole.  If  the  stem  is  split  open  a  borer  will  be 
discovered ;  and  if  these,  with  small  hooks,  are  used  in 
shallow  water,  a  supply  of  minnows  can  be  captured. 
But  by  using  a  bob,  a  spinner,  or  spoon,  a  supply  of  fish 
can  be  secured  at  almost  any  point  above  Pilatka. 

If  three  should  unite  in  an  excursion  to  Florida,  the 
cost  of  trip  by  sailing  vessel  and  return  would  be  $90 
(and  as  a  majority  of  vessels  go  out  light,  transportation 
could  be  secured  for  boat  free  of  charge).  Expense  of 
boat,  $40  ;  small  stove  and  cooking  utensils,  $10  ;  fishing- 
rods  and  tackle,  $8  ;  ammunition,  $12  ;  tent,  $6.  Leav 
ing  $13-4  for  provisions  and  incidental  expenses.  We 
have  reason  to  believe  that  the  boat  would  bring  $20,  if 
not  prime  cost,  which  would  be  placed  to  the  credit  of 
the  provision  account.  By  the  use  of  a  boat  the  trip 
eau  be  made  for  a  very  small  sum. 

"AL  FRESCO." 


IX. 

UP  THE  ST.  JOHNS  RIVER. 

FOUR  winters  ago  the  writer  was  one  of  a  merry 
dozen  who,  on  pleasure  bent,  helped  swell  the 
overwhelming  stream  of  tourists  who,  fleeing  from  the 
Northern  cold,  sought  shelter  in  the  Sunny  South. 
After  various  incidents  of  travel  we  found  ourselves  in  the 
crowded  parlors  of  the  St.  James  at  Jacksonville,  and 
planned  our  trip.  Two  years  have  wrought  great 
changes  since  then,  even  in  that  sleepy  land,  and  I  am 
pleased  that  this  winter's  flock  of  tourists  will  find  better 
hotel  accommodations  everywhere  than  fell  to  our  lot  on 
that  day.  Even  as  it  was — Tocoi  railroad  and  all — 
that  trip  is  one  to  be  remembered  a  life-time  ;  and  all 
who  can  make  it  should  do  so. 

We  left  Jacksonville  on  a  bright  warm  morning,  in 
the  Florence,  a  comfortable  boat,  with  courteous  and 
obliging  officers ;  and  comfortably  seated  on  deck  en 
joyed  the  trip  exceedingly  from  Jacksonville  to  Tocoi. 
Every  mile  carried  us  farther  from  the  frosty  North. 
The  St.  John  is  a  magnificent  stream.  Originating 
among  the  Everglades  in  the  south  of  Florida,  it  flows 
northward  nearly  three  hundred  miles,  when  it  bends 
sharply  to  the  east,  and  empties  into  the  ocean  twenty- 
three  miles  from  Jacksonville,  which  is  at  the  bend. 
For  over  one  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth  it  will  aver- 


UP  TIIE   ST.    JOHXS   RIVER.  93 

age  three  miles  in  breadth,  expanding  occasionally  into 
beautiful  lakes.  Thus  the  first  day  of  our  trip  we  were 
in  such  wide  waters  that,  except  as  we  approached  the 
landings,  we  did  not  get  the  benefit  of  the  semi-tropical 
scenery  of  the  banks.  But  the  air  was  soft  and  balmy, 
the  sky  blue,  water  smooth  and  clear,  and  we,  just 
started  and  fresh,  were  in  high  spirits  and  enjoyed  every 
moment. 

Our  first  landing  was  at  Mandarin,  where,  amid  an 
orange  grove  and  splendid  group  of  water-oaks,  Mrs. 
Stowe  has  built  herself  a  home.  The  place  is  but  a  ham 
let,  and  after  delivering  our  mail  we  hurry  along  ;  but 
not  until  they  have  rounded  a  point  and  shut  in  the  view 
do  the  tourists  relinquish  their  gaze  upon  this  sunny 
Southern  home.  Twelve  miles  farther  carries  us  to  Mag 
nolia.  At  this  point  we  found  a  goodly  assemblage  of 
guests.  The  hotel  accommodations  are  the  best,  the 
hotel  itself  is  beautifully  situated,  and  a  good  table,  with 
good  attendance,  insure  a  good  time.  Black  Creek  is  a 
navigable  stream  for  fishermen  and  sportsmen.  On  a 
sunny  day  its  banks  are  lined  with  alligators,  while  fish 
and  game  of  all  descriptions  are  plentiful.  Two  miles 
above  Magnolia  is  Green  Cove  Springs,  where  are  also  a 
good  hotel  and  boarding  house.  This  is  a  great  resort 
for  invalids,  who  can  enjoy  daily  a  bath  in  a  sulphur 
spring,  which  has  given  the  place  its  importance.  This 
famous  spring  is  situated  about  a  hundred  yards  from  the 
landing,  amid  a  group  of  great  water-oaks  which,  covered 
with  hanging  festoons  of  gray  moss  and  mistletoe,  add  to 
its  beauty  more  than  any  artificial  setting  could  to  this 
emerald  gem.  The  spring  boils  up  in  great  lumps  from 
a  deep  crevice,  and  fills  a  pool  some  twenty  feet  in  diame 
ter  with  its  bright  but  greenish-hued  water,  clear  as  a 


94  UP  THE   ST.    JOHNS   RIVER. 

crystal — a  green  crystal.  Every  little  speck  on  the  bot 
tom  is  distinctly  visible,  even  in  the  deep  crevice,  which 
is,  I  should  judge,  about  twenty  feet  in  depth.  The 
outlet  forms  quite  a  little  river,  and  over  it  a  bathing 
house  has  been  built ;  and  here  those  suffering  witli  rheu 
matic  or  kindred  complaints  luxuriate  in  its  warm  em 
brace.  Seventy-six  degrees  is  the  average  temperature 
summer  and  winter,  seldom  varying  from  this  point  more 
than  a  degree  or  two.  The  water  is  slightly  sulphurous  ; 
more  perceptibly  so  in  the  odor  than  in  the  taste,  but 
sufficiently  to  banish  any  form  of  animal  or  reptile  life 
from  its  proximity.  This,  in  a  country  which  snakes  are 
said  to  frequent,  is  in  itself  a  great  inducement,  but  I  am 
inclined  to  think  that  the  snake  crop  of  Florida  is  vastly 
overrated.  An  old  hunter  told  me  that  lie  had  been  out 
for  deer  at  least  three  times  a  week  since  Christmas,  and 
had  not  encountered  a  snake.  On  the  other  hand,  one 
of  the  natives  informed  me  that  "there  was  a  right 
smart  chance  of  moccasins."  But  wherever  else  they 
may  locate,  the  Green  Cove  Spring  is  exempt,  and  the 
invalid  may  enjoy  his  bath  without  a  nervous  tremor. 

About  noon  we  arrived  at  Tocoi — or,  as  we  afterward 
dubbed  it,  Decoy — forty-five  miles  from  Jacksonville. 
This  miserable  apology  for  a  place  contains  one  old 
tumble-down  house,  and  two  rough  board  shanties, 
which  latter  constitute  the  depot  at  the  western  ter 
minus  of  the  St.  Augustine  railroad.  This  road  is 
fifteen  miles  in  length,  and  should  make  an  easy 
approach  to  St.  Augustine.  We  thought  we  were 
nearly  there,  but  we  knew  more  about  it  soon  after 
ward.  Could  we  have  but  foreseen  the  hardships  we 
were  to  go  through,  we  might  have  decided  not  to 
proceed.  Two  hours'  strolling  about  or  sitting  on  logs 


UP  THE   ST.   JOHNS   RIVER.  95 

under  the  sliadeless  pines  used  up  our  time,  while  a 
little  asthmatic  tea-kettle  of  a  steam-engine  was  being 
tinkered  into  going  condition.     Finally,  ready  for  its 
task,  it  was  hitched  to  two  dilapidated  boxes  on  wheels, 
into  which,  by  tight  crowding,  we  succeeded  in  squeez 
ing  ourselves.     The   day  was   chilly,   the   cars  full  of 
cracks    and    drafts ;    where    there    should    have    been 
windows  but  the  holes  remained  ;  and  water-proofs  and 
capes  had  to  be  substituted  for  glass.     We  needed  but  a 
rain  to  complete  our  discomfort.     The  road  itself  is,  if 
possible,  more  disgraceful  than  the  cars,  the  rails  of  pine 
and  cypress  (no  iron)  were  worn,  chipped,  shivered,  and 
rotten.     We  smashed  one  flat  to  the  ties,  and  had  a 
narrow  escape  from  being  capsized  into  the  swamp  ;  and 
had  our  engine  the  power  to  have  bumped  us  along  a 
few  feet  further,  we  should  have  had  a  serious,  perhaps 
fatal,  accident  to  wind  up  our  pleasure  trip.     As  it  was, 
all  hands  turned  out,  and  lifting  our  crazy  vans  again 
upon  the  track,  we  crawled  along  for  nearly  five  hours, 
delaying  at  times  to  put  a  new  rail  on  the  track,  to  dip 
a  few  bucketf uls  of  muddy  water  from  the  ditch  into  tho 
boiler,  or  to  cut  up  a  log  to  furnish  nutriment  to  our 
wheezy  little  engine.     At  last,  the  fifteen  miles  accom 
plished,  we  reached  St.  Augustine  tired  and  worn-out. 
May  we  never  have  to  go  over  that  road  again.     The 
road  leads  through  a  swampy  country,  and  some  of  the 
scenery  was   almost  grand  :  great   cypress  trees,  with 
their  swollen  feet  standing  in  murky  pools,  and  draped 
with  huge  "weepers"  of  gray  moss  hanging  from  every 
branch  three  to  six  feet  in  length  ;  foul  turkey-buzzards 
resting  upon  the  lofty  trees,  or  sailing  about  in  muffled, 
noiseless  flight,  gave  a  funereal  character  to  the  scenery 
from  which  Dante  might  have  drawn  his  inspiration.     I 


96  UP   THE   ST.    JOHNS   RIVER. 

am  sure  we  saw  the  counterpart  of  the  Stygian  pool. 
And  yet  it  was  not  all  so  gloomy.  Bright-hued  flowers, 
green  parasites  entwining  whole  groups  of  adjacent  trees, 
great  bunches  of  mistletoe  on  the  oaks,  and  now  and 
then  a  bright  cardinal  bird  or  blue  jay  flitting  among 
the  branches,  gave  us  plenty  to  admire,  and  almost 
whiled  away  the  time ;  and  we  had  our  own  internal 
resources — songs,  stories,  and  hard-boiled  eggs. 

In  the  morning,  after  our  arrival  at  St.  Augustine, 
our  first  trip  was  to  the  Old  Fort.  This  venerable 
pile  of  coquina  is  interesting  principally  because  of 
its  antiquity,  and  from  the  historical  associations 
connected  with  it.  Started  three  hundred  years  ago, 
it  was  a  hundred  years  in  building.  It  was  owned 
and  garrisoned  successively  by  Spanish,  English, 
United  States,  and  Confederate  troops.  It  was  bom 
barded  by  Sir  Francis  Drake's  fleet,  the  marks  of 
whose  balls  are  still  visible  on  its  sea  face.  It  has 
gloomy  dungeons,  in  one  of  which,  ,  discovered  some 
years  since  by  accident,  two  chained  skeletons  were 
found.  It  has  an  old  vaulted  chapel,  with  its  altar  and 
niches  for  images,  now  all  defaced,  and  the  floor  marred 
and  scarred  as  though  it  had  been  used  to  chop  wood  on. 
Our  irreverent  member  thought  that  the  old  monks 
must  have  had  sharp  knees,  from  the  looks  of  the  floor. 
The  "  old  sergeant,"  who  acted  as  our  cicerone,  is  a 
character,  and  relieved  his  dry  statistics  with  a  drier 
humor  peculiarly  his  own.  lie  showed  us  a  dungeon 
where  two  Seminole  chiefs — I  forget  their  names — had 
been  confined,  and  a  slit  in  the  wall  through  which  one 
of  them  escaped.  They  must  have  starved  that  Indian 
very  successfully  before  he  could  have  accomplished  it. 
A  subterranean  passage  is  popularly  supposed  to  exist, 


UP  Till:   ST.    JOHXS   RIVER.  97 

connecting  the  fort  with  the  convent,  but  it  has  not  been 
found.  In  one  of  the  dungeons  the  "old  sergeant" 
sprang  upon  us  what  was  evidently  a  pet  joke.  Paus 
ing  in  his  tale  until  the  loiterers  were  collected  around 
him,  and  standing  in  chilly  reverence,  he  told  us  of  some 
prisoners  who,  from  that  very  dungeon,  had  attempted 
to  escape  by  burrowing  under  the  walls.  He  told  us  of 
the  great  distance  to  be  undermined  before  reaching  the 
moat  and  liberty — some  thirty  yards,  I  believe.  Stand 
ing  with  his  back  to  the  wall  he  slowly  lighted  half  a 
dozen  dips  as  he  talked,  then  turning  suddenly  aside  he 
threw  the  concentrated  rays  into  a  hole  about  two  feet 
deep,  and  curtly  remarked,  "They  didn't  succeed." 
With  this  coup  de  theatre  the  old  gentleman,  satisfied 
that  he  had  ended  well,  left  us  to  find  our  way  to  the 
outer  air  and  to  stroll  through  the  narrow  streets  of 
the  town,  between  the  high  dead  walls  and  under  the 
projecting  balconies  that  characterize  the  Spanish  style 
of  building  and-  give  to  St.  Augustine  an  aspect  so  dif 
ferent  from  anything  to  be  seen  elsewhere  in  the  United 
States.  The  names  of  the  streets,  and  the  signs  over 
the  stores,  show  the  Spanish  origin  of  the  inhabitants  ; 
for  instance,  our  party  were  domiciled  at  Mrs.  Mer 
cedes',  Mrs.  Hernandez',  and  Mrs.  Seguis',  and  we 
shopped  at  Madame  Oliveros'.  The  Spanish  cast  of 
feature  prevails,  too,  and  a  dark-eyed,  black-haired 
brunette,  whom  I  saw  leaning  over  a  balcony,  carried  me 
back  to  days  gone  by,  when,  in  old  Spain  herself,  I 
have  seen  her  counterpart.  A  walk  along  the  sea  wall, 
built  of  coquina  (a  concrete  of  shells),  which  fronts  the 
town,  where  the  fresh  sea-breeze  brought  new  vigor  to 
our  tired  steps,  and  a  cruise  among  the  establishments 
devoted  to  the  manufacture  of  palmetto  hats,  brought 
5 


98  UP   THE   ST.    JOIIXS   RIVER. 

our  day  to  a  close.  These  hats  arc  being  manufactured 
and  sold  in  immense  numbers.  One  lady — Madame 
Oliveros — who  has  the  most  extensive  establishment, 
employs  fifty  women,  and  her  sales  in  one  season,  I  was 
told,  amounted  to  seven  thousand. 

We  left  St.  Augustine  with  mixed  emotions  ;  while 
we  had  received  the  utmost  kindness  and  hospitality 
from  private  individuals,  hitherto  strangers  to  us,  and 
were  delighted  at  the  quaint  old-fashioned  town,  and 
charmed  with  the  warm,  pleasant  climate  tempered  by  a 
bracing  sea-breeze,  we  had  nothing  pleasant  to  remember 
of  those  whose  duty  it  was  to  look  out  for  the  comfort 
of  guests  ;  and  WTC  felt  that  until  good  hotels,  large 
enough  and  well  enough  conducted  to  furnish  some 
comforts,  could  be  added  to  its  present  stock,  and  until 
some  method  of  getting  there  free  from  the  discomfort, 
anxiety,  and  danger  of  the  Tocoi  railroad  can  be  de 
vised,  the  invalid  should  avoid,  and  the  pleasure-seeker 
ilee  from  it. 

Our  trip  to  Tocoi  was  made  in  the  same  comfortless 
boxes,  and  a  good  hard  rain  was  added  to  the  previous 
discomforts.  We  got  over  without  serious  accident,  but 
the  pleasure  of  the  rest  of  the  trip  was  alloyed  by  the 
illness  of  some  of  the  more  delicate,  brought  on  by  the 
hardship  of  the  trip. 

At  Tocoi  we  found  the  Hattie  awaiting  us — a  small 
steamer,  but  necessarily  so,  as  the  rest  of  our  trip 
was  to  be  made  in  narrow  streams  and  shoal  water. 
We  were  very  comfortable  on  board  of  her.  The  table 
Avas  good,  quarters  clean,  and  the  captain — Charley 
Brock — a  good  fellow.  Our  first  stopping  place  was 
Pilatka,  ten  miles  beyond,  and  here  we  remained  until 
some  time  in  the  night,  to  enable  us  to  pass  over  the 


UP  THE   ST.   JOHNS   RIVEK.  99 

entrance  to  Lake  George  by  daylight.  This  gave  us 
opportunity  for  a  stroll  about  the  town,  and  to  enjoy 
a  most  delicious  supper  at  a  well-kept  hotel,  the  Putnam 
House. 

Pilatka  is  the  head  of  navigation  for  the  larger 
steamers  plying  on  the  river,  and  has  considerable  com 
merce.  Leaving  at  midnight,  we  awoke  the  next  morn 
ing  in  the  midst  of  scenery  ever  to  be  remembered. 
The  river  is  narrow,  the  banks  but  a  few  feet  off,  as  the 
channel  neared  one  shore  or  the  other,  and  are  densely 
covered  with  a  tropical  vegetation.  Palms,  palmettos, 
water-oaks,  and  pines  are  the  principal  large  trees,  all 
festooned  with  gray  moss.  The  stream  is  so  crooked 
that  at  no  one  time  can  we  see  half  a  mile  in  advance  ; 
thus  gliding  along  with  our  visual  limit  constantly  cir 
cumscribed,  we  seem  to  be  in  the  centre  of  an  ever- 
advancing  and  ever-changing  panorama  :  herons,  cranes, 
ducks,  and  other  birds  of  all  descriptions  give  animation, 
and  if  the  day  be  sunny,  countless  alligators  dozing  upon 
the  banks  furnish  rare  sport  to  the  sportsman.  Some 
times  great  monsters,  twelve  to  fourteen  feet  in  length, 
are  seen,  and  eagerly  shot ;  and  if  a  large  one  be  shot, 
the  obliging  captain  will  stop  the  boat  to  secure  the 
head,  which,  when  reduced  to  the  condition  of  skull 
alone,  is  considered  quite  a  curiosity,  while  the  teeth  are 
of  beautiful  ivory,  and  are  carved  into  all  sorts  of  trin 
kets.  Our  day,  though,  was  cold  and  rainy,  and  alligators 
scarce  ;  few  were  seen,  and  none  killed.  At  first  the 
more  timid  of  our  lady  companions  objected  shrinkingly 
to  our  firing  from  their  midst,  but  after  a  few  palpable 
misses  they  became  convinced  that  our  rifles  were  not 
dangerous,  even  to  the  game,  and  from  protesting 
against  it  became  rather  fond  of  the  sport ;  and  they 


100  UP   THE    ST.    JOHNS    RIVER. 

all  forgot  that  it  was  Sunday  till  a  sharp  rain  drove  us 
in  and  broke  up  the  shooting  match  ;  then  they  expressed 
themselves  ! 

Just  before  sunset  we  entered  Lake  Munroe,  where 
the  river  expands  into  a  noble  lake,  over  six  miles  in 
diameter.     On  its  western  side  is  situated  the  town  of 
Mellcnville,  where  we  got  such  beauties  of  lemons,  ten 
to  twelve  ounces  each,  and  cheap — four   cents  apiece. 
Thence  we  crossed  over  to  Enterprise.     This  little  place 
consists  of  a  hotel,  a  store,  and  two  or  three  houses,  and 
has  a  population  of  perhaps  forty.     It  is  the  farthest 
point  to  which  a  regular  line  of  steamers  plies,  but  to  the 
sportsman  there  is  still  another  hundred  miles  of  narrow 
river,  deep  lagoons,  gloomy  bayous,  and  wild,  untrodden 
land,  where  all  sorts  of  game,  such  as  bears,  wild  turkeys, 
deer,  and  ducks  are  plentiful,  and  the  waters  teem  with 
great  varieties  of  fish.     Splendid  black  bass,  ten  pounds 
in  weight,  abound — they  call  them  trout  here — besides 
bream,  perch,  and  great  catfish,  from  three  pounds  up 
to   incredible   figures.     For  the  benefit  of  travellers,  I 
would  state  that  the  story  of  the  bears  here  being  web- 
footed  is  not  strictly  in  accordance  with  fact.     There  is 
a  fair  hotel  at  Enterprise.     It  is  clean,  beautifully  situ 
ated  near  an  orange  grove,  with  a  fine  outlook  on  the 
lake,  a  fine  sulphur  spring  near  by,  and  a  little    lake 
two  miles  inland,  where  our  fishermen  secured  a  fine 
string    of   black   bass  in  an  afternoon's  fishing,  and  a 
woody  back  country,  which,  when  Tyson  goes  out  with 
his  hounds,  will  always  yield  at  least  one  deer,  and  gen 
erally    more.     From    here   parties   penetrate   into   the 
Indian  river  country,  where  a  bag  of  a  dozen  alligators 
is    but    an   ordinary   day's   work.     The   little   steamer 
Silver    Spring,    with    an    experienced    captain,     takes 


UP  THE   ST.   JOHKS  BIVEE.  101 

charge  of  this  part  of  the  ceremony.  At  Enterprise  we 
succeeded  in  getting  a  few  oranges.  The  crop  had  all 
been  picked  and  sold,  and  oranges  were  not  so  plentiful 
in  Florida  as  in  New  York.  Although  we  saw  none  of 
the  sweet  oranges  on  the  trees  (March  20th  to  30th),  yet 
we  were  fully  as  much  pleased  with  the  sight  of  the  wild 
orange.  This  fruit,  although  uneatable,  is  larger  and 
of  a  more  golden  hue  than  the  eatable  orange  ;  the  leaf 
is  nearly  the  same,  but  of  a  darker,  glossier  green,  and 
the  flower  identical.  These  we  saw  in  profusion.  A 
great  drawback  to  the  success  of  agricultural  pursuits  in 
Florida  is  the  latinia,  or  scrub  palmetto,  growing  as  a 
bush  from  three  to  five  feet  in  height.  Its  roots  extend 
in  all  directions  near  the  surface,  like  great  cables  three 
inches  in  diameter,  and  form  an  impervious  network 
through  which  a  plough  cannot  be  forced. 

Leaving  Enterprise  at  one  A.  M.,  we  again  had  a 
cold  and  rainy  day.  Wise  through  experience,  we  did 
not  waste  our  time  watching  for  alligators  that  would 
not  come  out,  so  made  ourselves  happy  in  the  cabin. 
At  Green  Cove  our  party  broke  up ;  all  who  could  re 
maining  at  that  lovely  spot,  and  the  rest  of  us  parting 
here  and  there,  as  our  roads  homeward  diverged. 

L.  A.  BEAKDSLEE. 


INDIAN  RIVER. 

BEGINNING  some  thirty  or  thirty-five  miles  to  the 
southward  of  St.  Augustine,  and  extending  along 
the  coast  of  Florida  about  one  hundred  and  seventy-five 
or  eighty  miles,  are  two  salt  water-lagoons,  separated 
from  the  ocean  by  a  mere  narrow  fringe  of  sand.  The 
larger  and  more  southward  of  these  is  known  as  Indian 
river,  and  the  other  as  Mosquito  lagoon.  They  are  sepa 
rated  by  a  low  belt  of  sand,  resting  upon  a  bed  of  shell 
conglomerate  scarcely  two  miles  broad. 

It  is,  however,  with  Indian  river  that  I  have  present 
concern,  as  it  is  possessed  of  peculiar,  extraordinary,  and 
little  known  attractions  and  resources,  which,  if  properly 
developed,  would  make  it  an  unequalled  sanitarium  for 
pulmonary  subjects.  With  its  northern  extremity  near 
Cape  Canaveral,  this  sheet  of  water  stretches  southward 
for  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  with  but  one  narrow 
communication  with  the  ocean — Indian  River  Inlet,  lati 
tude  27  deg.  30  min.  north.  The  long,  narrow  strip  of 
sand  on  either  side  of  the  inlet,  which,  as  I  have  said, 
separates  the  lagoon  from  the  ocean,  is  nowhere  broader 
than  one  mile.  Here  and  there  the  winds  and  waves 
have  heaped  up  the  sand  into  clusters  of  low  dunes,  but 
next  to  the  waters  of  the  lagoon  there  is  a  dense  growth 
of  the  mangrove  (Ithizophomcea),  wood  of  small  diameter, 


RIVEE.  103 

but  of  a  beautiful  red  color,  and  takes  a  very  fine  polish, 
and  the  whole  zone  is  thickly  dotted  with  the  graceful, 
picturesque,  and  useful  cabbage  palmetto  tree,  which  is 
valuable  as  a  timber  for  many  purposes,  and  its  leaves 
also,  while  its'unexpanded  young  foliage  is  a  delicious 
vegetable.  Other  and  even  more  valuable  trees  of  the  same 
(palm)  species  might  be  largely  introduced,  as,  for  ex 
ample,  the  cocoanut,  which  has  been  shown  to  flourish 
there.  It  is  in  part  this  low-lying  skirt  of  luxuriantly 
wooded,  dry  sandy  soil,  breaking  the  force  of  tempestuous 
winter  winds,  met  at  times  on  the  southern  Atlantic 
coast,  which  makes  the  western  shore  of  Indian  river  so 
highly  favorable  as  a  winter  residence  for  invalids. 

Near  Indian  River  Inlet,  upon  the  main  land,  a  mili 
tary  post  (Fort  Capron)  was  established  in  November, 
1849,  and  careful  meteorological  observations  were  taken 
for  a  series  of  years,  which  show  rare  cliinatological 
characteristics  peculiarly  favorable  for  pulmonary  pa 
tients,  that  is  to  say,  a  singularly  equable  temperature 
with  comparative  dryness.  For  example,  during  a  period 
of  five  years  ending  with  1854  the  mean  temperature  of 
the  winter  months  was  63  deg.  20  min.,  with  a  relatively 
small  rain-fall  during  the  late  autumn,  winter,  and  early 
spring  months,  or  217  fair-weather  days  for  the  year. 

The  lagoon  has  a  coralline  bed,  and  is  free  from 
marshes.  Communicating  with  the  sea  by  Indian 
River  Inlet,  as  I  have  stated,  it  likewise  receives  a 
good  deal  of  fresh  water  through  Santa  Lucia  river, 
which  is  an  outlet  of  the  Everglades.  It  teems  to  an 
almost  incredible  degree  with  fish  of  the  finest  and  most 
palatable  varieties,  including  that  most  delicate  and 
toothsome  of  all  American  fish,  the  pompano.  Never, 
indeed,  on  either  the  Atlantic,  Gulf,  or  Pacific  coast 


104  INDIA X    KIYEK. 

have  I  seen  fish  so  fat  and  well  flavored.  The  ordinary 
mullet,  here  very  fine,  is  found  in  extraordinary  shoals  at 
certain  seasons,  and  nowhere  else  is  the  sheepshead  so 
line  and  dainty  a  fish  as  in  Indian  river.  As  for  the 
oyster,  it  is  worth  a  visit  to  Indian  river  to  eat  those 
found  there,  especially  those  which  have  been  trans 
planted  ;  their  flavor  is  the  finest  in  the  United  States. 

Some  four  miles  southward  of  the  inlet,  the  western 
shore  rises  some  thirty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  into 
a  bluff  of  compact,  broken,  or  decomposed  shell,  for  some, 
distance.  Here  there  are  fine  situations  for  building, 
with  the  necessary  space  for  small  plantations  of  tropical 
fruits  and  plants,  which  thrive  so  wrell  in  all  that  region. 
There  are  already  orange  orchards  which  have  been 
planted  for  a  quarter  of  a  century.  The  pineapple, 
found  in  most  of  its  numerous  varieties,  and  other  inter- 
tropical  fruits,  do  as  well  here  as  in  the  Antilles.  North 
ward  the  shore  is  skirted  in  large  part  by  narrow  reaches 
of  dry  hammock  land,  covered  with  the  live-oak.  This 
soil  is  shallow,  but  underlaid  by  a  marl,  which  keeps 
fresh  its  virgin  fertility,  and  is  found  particularly  well 
adapted  to  the  growth  of  sugar-cane,  which  comes  to 
flower  or  tassel  on  Indian  river  as  in  Cuba,  but  not  hab 
itually  in  Louisiana.  Therefore,  the  cane  of  Indian 
river  is  richer  in  saccharine  matter  to  the  pound  than 
that  of  Louisiana. 

Immediately  back  of  these  arable  tracts,  the  very  tim 
ber  of  which  is  so  valuable  in  ship-building,  there  runs  a 
sand  ridge,  which  here  and  there  abuts  directly  upon  the 
water  of  the  lagoon,  and  is  everywhere  covered  with  noble 
pines,  affording  an  exhaustlcss  supply  of  accessible  build 
ing  timber,  liearward  of  this  ridge  the  country,  some 
what  lower  than  the  ridge,  stretches  out  into  great  spaces 


INDIAN   RIVER.  105 

of  pine  barrens,  which  afford,  however,  a  fine  range  and 
pasturage  for  cattle,  and  abound  in  game,  such  as  deer 
and  wild  turkey,  while  in  winter  the  lagoon  is  alive  with 
wild  duck.  On  the  slope  of  this  ridge,  toward  the  lagoon, 
by  digging  wrells  of  ten  or  fifteen  feet,  an  abundance  of 
pure,  delicious  water  is  developed,  being  simply  the 
rain-water  of  the  great  pools  in  its  rear,  filtered  through 
the  sand  ridge. 

A  glance  at  the  map  discloses  the  fact  that  for  more 
than  thirty  miles  of  its  upper  course,  the  St.  Johns  river, 
flowing  northward,  is  parallel  with  Indian  river  lagoon, 
at  an  average  distance  of  not  more  than  ten  miles.  At 
several  points,  indeed,  the  distance  is  reduced  to  eight 
miles,  so  that  a  canal  of  that  length,  through  ground 
peculiarly  favorable  for  cheap  and  easy  construction, 
would  give  water  communication  by  steam  with  Jack 
sonville,  and  in  fact  with  Charleston.  At  the  same  time, 
during  the  late  fall,  winter,  and  early  spring  tides,  the 
inlet  affords  passa-ge  to  steamers  drawing  from  eight  to 
ten  feet  of  water,  with  a  completely  sheltered  harbor  im 
mediately  within  the  bar.  Beside  fish  to  so  marvellous 
a  degree  in  variety,  numbers,  and  excellence  for  food, 
Indian  river  is  likewise  the  resort  for  turtle.  The  vege 
tation  and  flora,  by  no  means  so  luxuriant  as  that  of 
inter-tropical  regions,  are,  however,  largely  of  the  same 
description.  The  trees  are  covered  with  beautiful  air- 
plants,  and  other  parasitic  plants,  which  open  a  broad 
field  of  interesting  investigation.  The  tree  yielding  gum- 
caoutchouc  by  exudation,  for  example,  is  there,  although 
not  in  quantities  for  commercial  purposes,  and  is  an  in 
teresting  feature  of  the  landscape  from  its  peculiar  growth 
or  habit  of  climbing  and  staying  itself  by  the  trunk  of 
another  tree,  which  it  finally  envelops,  crushes,  and  de- 
5* 


106  INDIAN   RIVER. 

stroys.  Several  species  of  very  closely  grained,  heavy, 
high-colored  woods,  susceptible  of  fine  polish,  and 
adapted  to  the  uses  of  the  cabinet-maker,  are  there  in 
abundance.  Undoubtedly,  the  Campeachy  or  logwood, 
would  thrive,  if  introduced  upon  the  beach  or  seaward 
•shore  of  the  lagoon,  or  would  soon  so  multiply  (as  in 
Santo  Domingo,  where  it  was  first  planted  for  hedges)  as 
to  become  a  valuable  product. 

And  so  I  might  go  on  enumerating  what  nature  has 
planted  or  supplied  in  forest  and  stream,  and  what  man 
might  easily  do  to  make  at  least  a  charming  health  resort 
of  Indian  river,  but  I  will  only  add  that  I  have  myself 
seen  some  remarkable  evidences  of  the  benefits  which 
persons  of  both  sexes,  having  diseased  lungs,  have  re 
ceived  there — benefits  that  proved  lasting — with  some 
yet  more  remarkable  instances  of  persons  so  diseased 
that  elsewhere  they  were  in  constant  pain,  who  yet  were 
able  to  live  a  prolonged  and  comfortable  life  in  that 
singularly  equable  temperature.  I  likewise  passed  one 
summer  upon  the  lagoon,  and  never  found  the  heat  op 
pressive,  as  it  was  habitually  tempered  by  a  soft,  gentle 
breeze.  The  only  discomfort  was  the  mosquito,  against 
which,  however,  it  was  not  difficult  to  guard  by  proper 
precautions. 

It  is  a  misfortune  that  the  real  climate  and  general 
sanitary  advantages  of  Indian  river  are  not  widely  known 
to  the  thousands  who  suffer  from  weak  lungs  and  bron 
chial  affections  in  the  New  England  and  Middle  States. 

THOS.  JORDAN. 


XI. 


FLORIDA,  THE  PROMISED  LAND. 

A  FEW  months  since,  we  resolved  to  leave  our 
native  State,  and  settle  on  the  banks  of  Indian 
river.  Our  chosen  route  led  us  overland,  and  journeying 
along  in  primitive  style,  we  enjoyed  rare  opportunities 
of  seeing  Florida  in  many  of  her  different  phases. 
Her  scenery  is  of  an  exceedingly  variegated  character  ;  in 
some  places  picturesque,  even  grand  ;  in  others,  dull  and 
dreary  beyond  description.  Those  who  paint  Florida 
wholly  in  radiant  hues  and  flowery  terms  of  praise, 
doubtless  remember  only  some  beauteous  scenes  which 
fill  the  memories  with  such  fair  pictures  that  other  im 
pressions  are  overshadowed  and  forgotten.  One  can 
scarcely  fancy  a  more  lonely,  deserted-looking  region 
than  that  we  often  traversed,  our  road  sometimes  wind 
ing  many  miles  through  a  barren  pine  section,  offering 
nothing  new  to  our  curious  eyes  except  some  hundreds 
of  salamander  beds,  whitening  the  woods  as  far  as  we 
could  see.  Except  at  long  intervals,  no  signs  of  other 
life,  animal  or  human,  enlivened  the  dull  monotony  of 
such  scenes.  But  sometimes  we  came  unexpectedly 
upon  something  attractive.  After  journeying  many  miles 
through  what  seemed  to  us  an  endless  stretch  of  narrow, 
sandy  road,  winding  through  a  limitless  extent  of  pine 
woods,  we  were  prepared,  by  force  of  contrast,  to  enjoy 


103  PLORIDA,    THE    PFvOMISF.D    LAN  P. 

the  magnificient  view  which  met  our 'delighted  eyes  as 
we  crossed  the  Suwanee  river — the  old  stream  so  inter 
woven  with  recollections  of  the  song,  heard  so  often  in 
days  gone  by.  As  far  as  we  could  see,  the  hanks  were 
crowned  with  majestic  water-oaks,  whose  rich  dark- 
grceii  foliage  was  beautifully  silvered  over  with  long  gray 
moss  drooping  low  to  the  water's  edge.  The  slanting 
sunbeams  lent  a  golden  glory  to  the  tree-tops,  and  we 
crossed  the  strongly  flowing  current,  gazing  in  silent 
admiration  at  this  new  loveliness  displayed  by  ever- 
yaricd  nature.  During  our  journey  thence  to  Newnans- 
yille  we  passed  many  thrifty-looking  farms,  but  the  town 
itself  seems  fast  going  to  decay.  No  new  buildings 
attested  prosperity  and  progress,  and  in  most  cases, 
the  original  ones  were  sadly  in  need  of  repair.  The  route 
onward  to  Gainsville  seemed  far  less  monotonous.  AVe 
found  it  a  thriving  town,  its  main  streets  thronged  by 
pedestrians  and  vehicles,  while  the  coming  and  going  of 
the  railway  trains  imparted  a  sensation  of  nearness  to,  and 
connection  with,  the  great  busy,  bustling,  outside  world. 
In  passing  from  there  to  Orange  Spring,  we  noticed 
many  snug  little  farms,  most  of  them  new,  and  now 
we  began  to  realize  that  we  had  entered  the  orange  region 
of  Florida,  as  there  was  scarcely  a  house  not  surrounded 
by  orange  trees  in  various  stages  of  growth.  Orange 
Spring  appears  to  have  once  been  a  place  of  some  note. 
The  ruins  of  a  large  hotel  mutely  attest  its  former 
popularity  as  a  place  of  resort,  while  its  numerous  com 
fortable  dwellings,  and  some  new  stores,  show  there  is  life 
in  that  region  yet.  Its  situation  is  charming,  crowning 
a  considerable  eminence,  and  considering  its  attractions, 
one  does  not  wonder  at  its  former  fame.  Its  name  is 
probably  derived  in  part  from  a  large  sulphur  spring 


FLORIDA,    THE    PROMISED   LAND.  1C9 

near  by,  a  favorite  resort  in  summer,  when  its  waters  arc 
said  to  be  delightfully  cool  and  refreshing.  This  spring 
is  nearly  circular,  about  forty  or  fifty  feet  in  diameter, 
and  of  a  dark-green  color.  We  spent  a  night  in  the 
village,  with  the  widow  of  a  Baptist  minister,  and  shall 
not  soon  forget  her  hospitality,  nor  her  quaint  anecdotes. 
The  kindness  extended  us  during  our  long  journey  con 
vinced  us  that,  in  spite  of  the  cant  about  the  "  cold,  selfish 
world,"  there  is  much  good-will  throbbing  in  the  great 
heart  of  humanity.  The  difficulty  usually  lies  in  not 
knowing  just  how  to  rouse  it  into  action.  In  the  vicin 
ity  of  Orange  Spring  we  noticed  quite  a  number  of 
ponds,  but  not  the  muddy,  swamp-encircled  ones  usually 
seen  in  Florida.  These  lay  here  and  there,  looking 
"like  mirrors  framed  in  green."  The  waving  pines  and 
luxuriant  wire-grass  grew  to  the  water's  edge.  The  sight 
of  the  St.  Johns  revived  legendary  memories  of  the  dusky 
youths  and  maidens  who  doubtless  once  sailed  gayly  over 
its  beloved  waters  in  their  light  canoes.  But  they  have 
long  since  passed  into  the  "  Land  of  Shadows." 

Not  far  eastward  of  Enterprise  we  passed  the  ruins  of 
Spring  Garden,  once  a  farm  of  unusual  dimensions.  It 
was  saddening  to  ride  through  the  deserted  fields,  whose 
fences  have  long  since  disappeared,  now  being  rapidly 
overgrown  with  a  species  of  scrubby  oak  and  pine.  A 
lake  of  moderate  extent,  and  abounding  in  fine  mullet, 
is  found  within  its  borders. 

The  strip  of  land  lying  immediately  between  the  St. 
Johns  and  Indian  rivers  is  a  dismal-looking  region, 
abounding  in  swampy  fiats  and  cabbage  sloughs,  and  of 
necessity  thinly  inhabited.  On  arriving  at  Sand  Point, 
however,  we  found  a  community  of  intelligent  thorough 
going  people,  one  good  hotel,  and  one  excellent  boarding- 


110  FLORIDA,    THE   PROMISED   LAND. 

house,  furnishing  very  acceptable  accommodations  to  vis 
itors.  The  proposed  railway  from  there  to  Lake  Harnee 
will  add  considerably  to  the  interests  of  this  country, 
and  render  Indian  river  far  more  easily  and  comfort 
ably  accessible  to  the  settler,  to  the  invalid,  and  to 
pleasure  seekers  wishing  to  explore  its  far-famed  waters. 
This  river,  more  correctly  an  arm  of  the  sea,  has  been  un 
duly  extolled  by  its  friends,  and  proportionably  defamed 
by  its  enemies.  Thus  many  have,  on  arrival,  been  sur 
prised  agreeably  or  disagreeably,  according  to  their  pre 
conceived  ideas  of  its  merits  or  demerits.  Many  regard 
this  as  a  remote  frontier  country,  almost  inaccessible,  pos 
sessing  few  or  no  advantages,  and  as  scarcely  habitable.  It 
seems  not  generally  known  that  there  are  families  scat 
tered  all  along  from  Sand  Point  to  Fort  Capron,  houses 
in  many  places  being  less  than  half  a  mile  apart.  Merritt's 
Island,  too,  is  attracting  considerable  attention,  and  in  a 
few  years  there  will  probably  be  an  extensive  population 
in  this  section.  As  to  the  character  of  society,  I  have  met 
as  well-bred  ladies  and  gentlemen  here  as  I  ever  saw  in 
any  community.  Many  of  the  citizens  represent  some 
of  the  best  families  of  Georgia,  Alabama,  and  other  States. 
A  few  objectionable  characters  will  be  found  anywhere, 
and  our  country  doesn't  claim  to  be  entirely  exceptional 
in  that  respect. 

Two  or  three  ministers  having  now  located  among  us, 
we  can  thus  once  more  hear  the  Gospel  proclaimed,  and 
as  settlers  are  moving  in  so  rapidly,  there  is  good  reason 
to  suppose  that  we  will,  before  a  great  Avhile,  see  flour 
ishing  schools  and  churches  established. 

Indian  river  is  always  beautiful  ;  when  its  waters  are 
placid  as  some  inland  lake,  or  when  its  waves  are  crested 
with  foam,  and  furiously  lashing  its  rocky  shore.  The 


FLORIDA,    THE   PROMISED   LAND.  Ill 

roar  of  the  ocean  is  distinctly  audible  at  our  home,  and 
since  living  here,  I  can  form  some  faint  conception  of 
the  emotions  which  stirred  the  soul  of  the  author  of  the 
"Murmuring  Sea."  I  cannot  better  describe  the  cli 
mate  of  this  favored  land  than  to  use  Moore's  words, 
"  Its  air  is  balm,"  and  for  the  most  part,  the  atmosphere 
is  pure  and  refreshing  to  a  delightful  degree.  On  the 
western  shore  the  scenery  has  quite  a  tropical  air,  owing 
to  a  profusion  of  cabbage  palmettoes,  resembling  palms. 
The  eastern  side  presents  a  decided  contrast,  the  high 
white  and  yellow  bluif  being  crowned  principally  with 
the  pine. 

In  this  semi-tropical  region,  the  principal  occupation 
of  the  people  is  fruit-growing.  The  orange,  of  course, 
takes  precedence  over  other  fruits,  and  we  believe  there 
will  be  a  great  demand  for  Indian  river  oranges,  when 
once  their  superior  sweetness  and  flavor  shall  become 
generally  known.  Many  of  us  expect  to  make  the  citron 
and  guava  profitable.  And  judging  from  the  growth  of 
young  fig-trees  here,  we  expect  to  eventually  "reap  our 
reward  "  for  the  attention  .bestowed  on  them.  By  a  lit 
tle  judicious  pains-taking  we  can  gather  fresh  vegetables 
from  our  gardens  all  the  year  round.  Northern  invalids 
are  beginning  to  test  the  benefits  of  our  winter  climate, 
and  in  some  cases  with  happy  effect ;  some,  however, 
defer  coming  until  some  fell  disease  has  sapped  their 
vital  powers  too  strongly  for  them  ever  to  be  renovated  ; 
and  so  they  come  too  late. 

Many  of  the  Indian  river  residents  are  enlarging 
their  dwellings,  for  the  purpose  of  accommodating  visi 
tors  during  another  season.  Lack  of  necessary  means  is 
the  grand  difficulty  which  cripples  the  efforts  and  ener 
gies  of  many  who  might  other  wise  get  up  elegant  hotels 


112  FLORIDA,    THE    PROMISED    LAND. 

and  private  boarding  houses.  However,  there  are  some 
rough,  uninviting  looking  buildings,  where  the  travelling 
public  will  iind  within,  neat,  comfortable  bed-rooms, 
and  good,  wholesome  fare.  The  "finest  oysters  in  the 
world  "  can  be  had  in  abundance  during  the  winter  sea 
son  ;  fish  can  be  had  all  the  year  round,  venison  is  abun 
dant,  and  a  great  variety  of  fruits  flourish,  while  there 
are  countless  other  objects  to  please  the  eye  and  gratify 
the  taste  for  what  is  truly  beautiful. 

Many  varieties  of  pretty  shells  can  be  found  on  the 
ocean  beach.  Sometimes  one  finds  a  sort  of  spiral  case 
containing  hundreds  of  diminutive  shells.  These  make 
pretty  necklaces,  resembling  white  coral.  The  delicate 
flesh  tint  of  these  shells  makes  them  beautiful,  while 
their  frailty  insures  their  being  carefully  cherished. 
Just  now,  we  Indian  river  citizens  are  compelled  to  live 
in  a  style  not  according  to  our  former  habits  of  life,  or 
present  desires,  but  we  trust  the  day  is  not  far  distant 
when,  instead  of  rude  dwellings  situated  in  the  native 
wilds,  the  visitor  here  will  behold  handsome  residences 
in  the  midst  of  grounds  tastefully  and  lavishly  adorned 
with  all  the  different  fruits,  flowers,  and  evergreens  which 
this  climate  is  capable  of  producing. 

C.  B.  MAGRUDER. 


XII. 
FORT   CAPRON. 

HAVING  served  about  two  years  in  South  Florida 
during  the  last  Seminole,  or  "Billy  Bowlegs" 
war,  I  think  I  may  safely  assert  that  Fort  Capron,  op 
posite  Indian  River  Inlet,  is  the  very  place  for  a  sports 
man's  hotel.  Its  mild  and  salubrious  climate,  together 
with  the  abundance  of  fruit,  game,  and  fish  to  be  found 
in  its  immediate  vicinity,  render  it  a  place  of  unsur 
passed  attractions  for  both  sportsman  and  invalid. 
There  is  absolutely  no  endemic  disease  at  this  place. 
Its  mild,  genial  climate  banishes  all  coughs,  colds,  and 
rheumatisms,  while  a  line  of  hills  in  its  rear  effectually 
intercept  the  malarial  exhalations  of  the  fresh-water 
swamps  of  the  interior.  The  chlorinated  vapors 
brought  by  the  trade-winds,  which  are  constantly 
blowing  from  the  sea,  also  exercise  their  powerful 
sanitary  influence.  The  abundance  of  game  and  fish  in 
the  vicinity  of  Fort  Capron  is  truly  astonishing.  Dur 
ing  the  prolonged  period  that  I  was  stationed  at  that 
fort  we  were  never,  in  the  proper  season,  without  game, 
fish,  oysters,  or  green  turtle.  The  fish  found  in  the 
vicinity  are  red-fins  (a  species  of  drum,  commonly  called 
"red  bass,"  the  "rouge  "of  the  Creole  French  about 
New  Orleans),  red-snapper,  sheepshead,  cavalli,  sea 
trout,  sea-mullet,  and  the  far-famed  pompano.  These 


114  FOIIT  cArnox. 

two  last-mentioned  fish  do  not  take  a  bait.  There  are 
also  two  other  remarkable  fish  inhabiting  Indian  river 
and  the  adjacent  coast,  whose  scientific  names  I  am 
unaware  of.  These  arc  called  by  the  natives  the  jew- 
fish  and  the  tarpnm.  The  former  sometimes  at 
tains  a  weight  of  two  or  three  hundred  pounds,  and 
resembles  a  bass  in  its  general  contour,  while  the  latter 
presents  more  the  appearance  of  a  dace.  The  tar- 
pum,  owing  to  its  graceful  outlines  and  lustrous  color 
ing,  is  a  fish  of  most  surpassing  beauty.  The  scales  on 
its  sides  are  about  the  size  and  the  brilliancy  of  a  silver 
dollar,  out  of  which  the  native  females  fabricate  beauti 
ful  baskets.  When  a  school  of  these  fish  are  disporting 
themselves  upon  the  surface  of  the  waves,  as  is  their 
frequent  habit,  the  bright  reflections  from  their  sides 
produce  an  effect  not  unlike  that  presented  by  the  bur 
nished  arms  of  a  squad  of  soldiers  at  drill.  This  fish 
attains  a  length  of  about  five  or  six  feet,  but  is  not  so 
heavy  as  the  jew-fish.  The  bar  at  Indian  River  Inlet  is 
an  unrivalled  locality  for  short  spearing,  for  those  who 
are  fond  of  that  thrilling  amusement.  I  have  myself, 
in  a  common  "  Whitehall "  boat,  aided  in  harpooning 
fifteen  or  twenty  in  a  morning.  The  rivers  and  creeks 
emptying  into  Indian  river  are  filled  with  black  bass 
(miscalled  "  black  trout  "  by  the  natives).  This  species 
of  black  bass  reach  a  much  greater  size  than  any  other 
species  of  this  fish  I  have  ever  met  with.  I  have  taken 
them  weighing  in  the  neighborhood  of  ten  pounds,  and 
I  have  seen  others  swimming  in  the  water,  that  seemed 
to  be  almost  as  large  again.  Like  the  bass  of  the  Upper 
Mississippi  and  lakes  of  Minnesota,  and  unlike  the  bass 
at  present  inhabiting  the  Potomac  and  its  tributaries,  it 
will  readly  rise  to  spoon  or  fly.  They  are  apt  to  have  a 


FORT   C APRON".  115 

grassy  taste  during  the  summer,  but  as  winter  ap 
proaches  they  have  as  fine  a  flavor  as  any  other  fish  of 
the  genus.  The  streams  which  they  inhabit,  flowing  as 
they  do  through  the  sandy  soil  of  the  "pine  barrens," 
which  contains  but  little  sediment,  are  almost  as  trans 
parent  as  the  celebrated  trout  brooks  of  New  England. 
Indian  river,  so  called,  is  not  properly  a  river ;  but 
rather  a  sound  or  salt-water  lagoon,  being  separated 
from  the  ocean  by  a  narrow  strip  of  sandy  land  over 
grown  with  palmettoes  and  mangroves.  It  is  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  long,  and  ranges  from  several 
miles  to  forty  yards  in  width.  On  the  east  it  is  fed  by 
several  inlets  from  the  sea,  through  which  the  tide  ebbs 
and  flows  freely.  Several  large  rivers  enter  it  from  the 
west,  the  principal  of  which  are  the  San  Sebastian, 
Santa  Lucia,  and  Locha  Hatchee.  No  country  that  I 
have  ever  visited  affords  as  great  a  variety  of  game  and 
fish  as  South  Florida.  Besides  large  game,  such  as 
bear,  deer,  turkeys,  etc.,  this  region  literally  swarms 
with  snipe  and  ducks,  at  least  during  the  winter  months. 
Partridges  (bob  whites)  are  also  sufficiently  numerous  to 
afford  sport ;  but  I  have  never  seen  a  woodcock  in  that 
section.  The  snipe  shooting  on  the  savannahs  is  simply 
superb.  These  savannahs  (or  natural  meadows)  afford 
sufficient  moisture  to  attract  the  birds,  without  being 
so  miry  as  to  render  the  walking  difficult  or  fatiguing, 
as  is  so  often  the  case  at  points  further  north.  On  one 
of  these  snipe  grounds  of  many  hundred  acres  in  ex 
tent,  several  miles  in  rear  of  Fort  Capron,  I  used  to 
enjoy  most  delightful  sport,  seldom  returning  without 
a  full  bag. 

I  would  advise  sportsmen  desirous  of  snipe  shooting 
in  that  section,  to  take  pointers  instead  of  setters,  for 


116  FORT   CAPROX. 

the  long  hair  of  these  latter  is  likely  to  harbor  the 
numerous  sanguinivorous  insects  which  there  abound  ; 
its  mild  climate  is  also  more  suitable  to  the  nature  of 
the  pointer. 

Your  correspondent  Fred  Beverly  makes  honorable 
mention  of  a  gallant  exploit  of  one  of  his  followers  whom 
he  calls  Jim.  Now,  if  he  alludes  to  "  Jim"  Russell, 
of  Fort  Capron  (and  I  am  pretty  sure  he  does),  I  am 
happy  to  state  that  I  am  well  acquainted  with  "  Jim/' 
and  have  had  many  a  jolly  day's  sport  in  his  company. 
During  a  sail-boat  trip  to  Merrit's  Island,  in  company 
with  Lieutenant,  now  General,  Jeff.  0.  Davis,  of  Captain 
Jack  notoriety,  and  several  others,  among  whom  was 
our  hero,  we  had  occasion  to  take  along  a  famous  pointer 
of  mine,  Old  Nat  by  name,  for  the  purpose  of  vary 
ing  our  amusement  by  a  little  snipe  shooting.  Now, 
although  Old  Nat's  moral  status  was  none  of  the  best, 
for  he  would  "  steal  like  a  quartermaster,"  yet  his 
admirable  hunting  qualities  made  him  a  great  favorite 
with  all.  Like  most  of  his  species,  he  was  very  fond  of 
consulting  his  own  comfort  and  convenience.  At  the 
fort  he  was  accustomed  to  sleep  in  a  nice  shady  spot  on 
my  porch,  and  seeing  a  similar  locality  on  the  boat, 
produced  by  the  shadow  of  the  main-sail,  he  soon 
ensconced  himself  therein.  After  getting  through  with 
his  snooze,  and  thinking  himself,  no  doubt,  still  in  his 
accustomed  spot  at  home,  he  suddenly  got  up,  and, 
much  to  our  surprise  and  dismay,  leaped  overboard.  As 
there  was  a  violent  gale  blowing  at  the  time,  the  "  white 
caps  "  running  angrily,  and,  furthermore,  as  the  dog's 
chain  soon  became  entangled  with  his  legs,  his  peril 
became  extreme.  AVc  luffed  up  promptly  ;  but  in  spite 
of  all  our  efforts  the  fate  t)f  the  dog  seemed  sealed, 


FORT   CAPROX.  117 

when  "Jim,"  throwing  off  his  coat,  boldly  plunged  into 
the  seething,  surging  waves.  A  few  strokes  brought 
him  near  enough  to  lay  hold  of  the  collar  of  the  drown 
ing  dog,  but  owing  to  the  helpless  condition  of  the 
latter  he  could  not  make  much  progress  on  his  return  to 
the  boat.  Owing  to  the  increased  violence  of  the  storm, 
we  now  became  aware  of  the  alarming  fact  that  we 
were  slowly  but  surely  falling  to  leeward,  and  our 
fears  now  became  excited  for  Jim's  safety  also.  We 
shouted  to  him  to  abandon  the  dog  and  save  himself ; 
but  the  gallant  fellow  would  not  do  it.  By  letting  the 
sail  fall  and  using  the  oars  writh  desperate  energy,  we 
were  enabled  to  hold  the  boat  in  a  stationary  position, 
so  that  Jim,  swimming  with  one  arm  and  aided  by  the 
waves,  succeeded,  after  a  desperate  struggle,  in  coming 
alongside  with  the  dog.  I  soon  pulled  them  both  in, 
and  we  all  applauded  "Jim"  for  his  manly  daring; 
but  to  this  day  "  Jeff: "  swears  that  I  pulled  the  dog  in 
first ;  but  this  however,  I  can  never  bring  myself  to 
agree  to. 

ASA  WALL. 


XIII. 

FISHING  AT  ST.  AUGUSTINE. 

ST.  AUGUSTINE  is  a  quaint  old  Spanish  city,  for  a 
long  time  dull  and  quiet,  but  now  waking  up  with 
the  influx  of  Northern  people,  many  of  whom  have  built 
stately  and  beautiful  residences  for  their  winter  sojourn. 
For  real  enjoyment,  St.  Augustine  far  surpasses  any 
other  part  of  Florida.  You  avoid  the  bustle  of  business 
in  Jacksonville,  as  well  as  its  sharp  frosts  and  hot  days  ; 
you  are  not  "  out  of  the  world,"  as  at  Enterprise,  nor  is 
it  so  warm.  The  climate  is  charming  ;  a  happy  medium  ; 
nor  is  it  so  variable  as  at  most  other  places  in  Florida. 
Frost  is  almost  unknown ;  also,  extreme  heat.  You 
have  good  hotels,  your  daily  mail,  and,  though  the 
"  morning  papers  "  do  not  reach  you  until  the  afternoon, 
still,  you  are  "in  the  world,"  while  the  facilities  for 
boating,  hunting,  and  fishing  are  unsurpassed.  The  bay 
is  beautiful,  and  affords  a  fine  opportunity  for  sailing. 
Whether  your  party  tries  the  Osceola,  or  belle  of 
the  bay,  of  Mr.  Ivanowski  (m  Sweeney),  the  Water 
Witch  "  of  Captain  Walton,  or  any  of  the  smaller  craft 
in  the  harbor,  you  can  enjoy  a  pleasant  and  comfortable 
sail  under  safe  pilotage.  While  for  fishing,  one  lias  but 
to  go  to  the  sea-wall,  or  the  long  wharf,  or  take  a  skiff 
or  a  canoe  and  push  out  in  the  bay,  and  there  will  be 
no  want  of  sport.  The  only  drawback  is  the  universal 


FISHING   AT   ST.    AUGUSTINE.  119 

prevalence  of  the  catfish,  which  is  of  all  sizes,  from  the 
tiny  youngster  of  three  inches  to  the  full-grown  pater 
familias  of  two  feet  or  more.  These  are  of  a  gray  color, 
and  shaped  like  their  Northern  brethren,  but  covered 
with  a  thick,  tough  slime,  just  as  the  eels  of  the  North 
are,  and  the  result  is,  your  hook,  line,  and  fingers — and 
often  clothes — get  covered  with  this  sticky  substance. 
Your  hook  and  line  must  be  thoroughly  cleansed,  or  no 
other  fish  will  touch  it ;  your  hands  and  clothes  are  at 
your  option.  Another  favorite  fishing  place  is  from  the 
bridge  over  the  San  Sebastian,  just  at  the  back  of  the 
town.  At  any  or  all  of  these  places  you  can  catch  bass, 
trout,  sheepshead,  mullet,  flounders,  sharks,  and  many 
other  varieties. 

One  of  the  pleasantest  amusements  is  fishing  in  the 
surf  for  bass.  The  modus  operandi  of  this  sport  is  some 
what  as  follows  : 

Remember  that  I  am  giving  the  custom  of  the  coun 
try,  and  shall  not  be  surprised  if  the  scientific  bass-fishers, 
who  rejoice  in  forty-dollar  reels  and  sixty-dollar  rods  with 
agate-mounted  tips  and  rings,  are  somewhat  disgusted. 
The  line  ordinarily  used  is  nearly  as  thick  as  a  cod-line, 
and  about  50  yards  long.  A  sinker,  weighing  about  a 
half  or  three-quarters  of  a  pound — with  a  hole  through 
it — is  strung  on  the  line,  and  is  kept  there  by  a  large 
knot  on  its  end.  Below  this  knot,  and  attached  to  the 
line  proper  by  a .  somewhat  smaller  cord,  is  the  hook — a 
cod-hook  being  generally  used,  or  one  a  little  smaller. 

The  fisherman  is  usually  clad  in  an  old  flannel  shirt, 
woollen  trousers,  and  old,  loose  boots — with  a  broad-leaved 
straw  or  felt  hat.  The  bait  used  is  a  string  of  mullet, 
procured  at  the  early  market  (price  five  cents),  which 
is  cut  into  chunks  about  an  inch  square.  Thus  equipped, 


120  FISHING    AT   ST.    AUGUSTIXE. 

and  with  the  end  of  the  line  tied  around  the  waist,  or  to 
his  wrist  to  prevent  its  escape  as  it  flies  out,  and  neatly 
coiled  in  his  left  hand  to  run  off  easily,  and  with  a  yard 
or  two  above  the  sinker  hanging  from  his  right  hand, 
the  fisherman  wades  into  the  surf,  about  waist  deep,  and 
swinging  the  sinker  around  his  head,  launches  it  out  as 
far  as  he  can,  and  then  draws  it  gradually  in,  so  as  to 
keep  the  bait  moving.  When  he  feels  a  bite  he  gives  a 
jerk,  to  hook  the  fish,  and,  if  successful,  he  puts  the 
line  over  his  shoulder,  and  starts  for  the  beach,  going  as 
fast  as  he  can — for  if  he  lets  the  line  slack,  he  will  proba 
bly  lose  his  fish.  On  emerging  from  the  water  he  runs  out 
on  the  beach  and  drags  the  fish  upon  the  sand,  where  he 
secures  it — and,  re-baiting  his  hook,  starts  for  another 
throw.  The  hook,  or  hooks — sometimes  two  or  more  are 
used — are  put  on  a  smaller  piece  of  line,  on  account  of 
the  abundance  of  small  sharks,  which  literary  swarm  in 
the  breakers,  where  the  bass  and  other  fish  most  do  con 
gregate,  and  are  very  apt  to  seize  the  bait  and  break  the 
line,  carrying  off  sinker  and  all,  if  it  breaks  above  it. 
The  sinker  is  perforated  so  that  the  bite  can  easily  be 
felt,  the  line  readily  slipping  through  it.  The  surf  is 
about  fifty  yards  from  the  edge  of  the  beach,  there  being 
a  line  of  shoal  about  that  distance,  over  which  the  waves 
break.  Between  this  and  the  shore  the  water  is  shallow; 
about  thigh-deep  at  low  tide,  and  the  fisherman  wades  out 
to  the  bank.  As  the  tide  rises  he  is  obliged  to  conic  in, 
the  surf  breaking  all  the  way  to  the  shore  when  the  water 
is  two  or  three  feet  deep  on  the  bar.  It  is  not  a  very 
comfortable  feeling  to  turn  when  on  the  shoal,  and  see  a 
shark  or  two  swimming  up  and  down  between  you  and 
the  shore — especially  if  you  have  a  bite  and  are  making 
for  the  beach.  But  they  are  very  shy,  and  quickly  get 


FISHING   AT   ST.    AUGUSTINE.  121 

out  of  the  way.  I  never  heard  of  any  one  being  bitten. 
They  are  usually  about  three  or  four  feet  long,  and  are 
often  caught.  Still  they  are  unpleasant  neighbors.  I 
remember  one  day,  before  a  storm,  when  the  water  was 
dark  and  I  could  not  see,  while  standing  about  waist-deep 
in  this  "  middle  ground,"  and  fishing  busily,  feeling  a 
sudden  sharp  nip  on  the  ankle.  I  sprang  clear  of  the 
water,  for  I  thought  it  was  a  shark.  But  it  was  only  a 
large  sea-crab,  which  pinches  powerfully.  Fortunately, 
I  had  on  very  heavy  pantaloons,  so  110  damage  was  done 
— but  the  shock  was  tremendous,  for  sharks  are  very 
bold  in  dark  water. 

There  are  many  large  sharks  and  sword  or  saw-fish 
in  the  bay,  and  during  the  summer  they  are  caught  for 
the  oil  contained  in  their  livers.  From  ten  to  twenty 
fish  is  about  a  fair  afternoon's  catch  "  during  the  season" 
— so  they  say. 

Speaking  of  the  bass-fishing  in  the  surf  reminds  me 
of  a  somewhat  ludicrous  incident  which  is  said  to  have 
occurred  to  one  of  our  distinguished  generals,  just  after 
the  war.  It  seems  a  party  were  fishing  at  Brazos,  in 
the  Gulf,  somewhat  in  the  manner  I  have  just  described, 
and  the  General  feeling  a  bite,  started  with  the  line  over 
his  shoulder  in  orthodox  style  for  the  beach,  and  ran 
out  hauling  his  line.  In  course  of  time  the  fish  was 
drawn  out,  and  to  the  amazement  of  the  General  and 
the  amusement  of  the  rest  of  the  party,  proved  to  be  only 
about  six  inches  long.  It  is  needless  to  say  that  the 
General's  champagne  suffered  that  evening,  but  the  story 
leaked  out  nevertheless.  So  much  for  the  fish. 

Quail  are  plenty  in  the  neighborhood  of  St.  Augus 
tine,  and  within  a  few  miles  deer  and  wild  turkey  are 
abundant ;  while  occasionally  one  gets  a  chance  for  a 
G 


122  FISHING   AT   ST.   AUGUSTINE. 

"  scrimmage  "  with  a  bear  or  panther.  As  to  wild  fowl, 
"  their  name  is  legion  "  ;  shore  birds  of  all  kinds,  ducks, 
geese,  herons,  et  id  omne  genus,  can  be  had  with  a  rea 
sonable  degree  of  trouble.  Enough  sport  can  be  found 
in  the  neighborhood  of  St.  Augustine  to  reward  the 
most  ardent  sportsman ;  and  I  know  of  no  place  this 
side  of  Humboldt  Bay,  in  California,  where  so  many 
facilities  for  hunting  and  fishing  are  offered,  or  where  the 
variety  of  game,  fish,  flesh,  and  fowl,  is  so  great,  or  where  a 
few  weeks  may  be  more  agreeably  passed  by  the  sportsman. 


XIV. 

BASS  FISHING  ON  SPRUCE   CREEK. 

HEARING  great  stories  of  the  size  of  the  black  bass, 
or  trout,  as  they  are  called  by  the  Floridians,  in 
Spruce  creek,  a  tributary  of  the  Halifax  river,  I  left 
New  Smyrna  with  a  boat  and  guide  on  the  23d  of  April, 
at  9  A.  M.,  to  test  the  truth  of  these  fish  stories.  We 
sailed  down  the  Hillsboro  with  a  westerly  breeze  to  the 
inlet,  called  Mosquito  from  the  abundance  of  that 
familiar  insect,  and  passing  through  a  narrow  gut 
between  two  sand-bars,  we  saw  a  large  turtle  of  the 
loggerhead  kind,  which  having  been  crippled  by  the 
attack  of  a  shark  which  had  bitten  oif  half  of  one  hind 
nipper,  had  crawled  upon  the  sand.  It  weighed  proba 
bly  one  hundred  pounds,  and  could  have  easily  been 
captured,  but  we  had  no  use  for  it  at  the  time.  Cross 
ing  the  inlet,  we  laid  our  course  up  the  Halifax,  into 
which,  near  its  mouth,  Spruce  creek  flows.  At  this 
place  it  is  wide  and  shallow,  winding  through  extensive 
marshes  and  mangrove  islands,  and  much  encumbered 
by  oyster  banks,  many  of  which  stretch  across  the 
stream.  These  oysters  are  large  and  well  flavored,  and 
so  abundant  that  hundreds  of  vessels  could  be  loaded 
with  them.  Sailed  up  the  creek  for  two  miles,  meeting 
only  one  boat,  which  was  shark  fishing.  Then  we 
stopped  to  get  bait,  and  Lewis,  my  guide,  with  a  few 
casts  of  his  net,  procured  for  me  a  dozen  mullet,  the 


124  BASS   FISIIIXG   OX   SPRUCE   CREEK. 

usual  bait  for  all  fishes  iu  this  region.  Sailed  on  four 
miles  further,  when  the  banks  began  to  be  higher,  and 
wooded,  and  the  water  grew  fresh,  when  I  put  out  a 
trolling  line  with  mullet  bait,  and  caught  a  red  fish  or 
channel  bass  of  five  pounds,  and  two  salt-water  trout  of 
two  pounds  each  (Corvina  ocellata  and  Otolitus  Caroli- 
nensis).  Here  on  the  east  side  of  the  creek  we  found  a 
bluff  of  coquina  rock,  some  fifty  feet  high,  covered  with 
forest  trees,  and  with  its  sides  washed  by  water  into 
curious  forms.  The  river  at  its  base  is  very  deep,  and  is 
said  to  contain  large  fish,  especially  snappers  and 
groupers.  About  a  mile  above  this  bluff,  having  put 
out  a  second  line  with  a  spoon,  I  took  with  it  my  first 
black  bass  ;  it  was  of  about  two  pounds'  weight,  and  made 
the  leaps  characteristic  of  the  species.  Next  I  got  a  red- 
fish  of  about  the  same  size.  I  observe  these  fish  caught 
in  fresh  water  are  higher  colored  than  those  of  salt 
water,  the  back  being  of  a  rich  dark  brown,  and  the 
sides  of  bright  copper  color.  The  salt-water  trout  taken 
here  are  also  of  deeper  colors,  with  larger  spots  than 
those  taken  in  the  salt  water.  Three  miles  further,  rain 
coming  on,  we  stopped  and  camped,  about  4  p.  M.,  at  a 
bluff  on  the  west  side,  where  the  King's  road,  one  hun 
dred  years  ago,  ran  from  St.  Augustine  down  the  coast. 
After  the  shower  we  rowed  up  the  river  a  mile,  and  got 
half  a  dozen  more  black  bass,  and  lost  several  by  their 
habit  of  shaking  out  the  hook  as  they  leap.  I  got  two 
dogfish  (Amia  calva),  a  western  acquaintance,  and  not  a 
valued  one,  as  this  fish,  though  interesting  to  naturalists 
from  being  the  only  representative  of  an  old  world 
family,  is  worthless  as  food,  and  makes  himself  so  odious 
by  cutting  lines  and  breaking  hooks,  that  the  angler 
regrets  that  it  should  have  survived  its  kindred. 


BASS   FISII1XG   0^"   SPRUCE   CREEK.  125 

We  swung  our  hammocks  between  two  trees  by  the 
fire,  and  after  a  supper  of  bass,  with  bread  and  coffee, 
should  have  slept  sweetly  but  for  a  band  of  hungry 
mosquitoes  which,  lighted  by  the  moonbeams,  found  us 
out  and  sung  in  our  ears  their  detestable  song.  Next 
morning  we  started  at  sunrise,  and  trolled  up  the  creek 
with  hand  line  and  rod  and  reel,  both  having  spoons 
attached.  On  the  hand  line  BuePs  propeller,  in  white 
metal ;  and  on  the  reel  line  two  brass  fliers  revolving 
round  a  brass  wire  ;  the  latter  seemed  to  be  the  favorite, 
and  took  more  and  larger  fish.  Got  back  to  camp  at 
8  A.  M.,  with  twenty-five  black  bass  and  four  red-fish. 
The  former  were  from  one  to  three  pounds'  weight,  and 
the  latter  of  about  the  same  size  ;  we  lost  three  bass  by 
shaking  loose  the  hook.  As  the  weather  looked  threat 
ening,  we  broke  camp  and  returned  down  the  river,  tak 
ing  four  more  bass  by  the  way.  We  got  entangled 
among  the  oyster  banks  at  low  tide,  and  lost  an  hour, 
the  rain  falling  heavily.  When  we  got  out  of  these  shal 
lows,  we  set  our  sail  to  the  breeze,  and  went  down  the 
river  flying,  almost  running  over  a  large  alligator  which 
lay  on  the  mud,  as  we  rounded  a  point.  As  we  emerged 
into  the  broad  Halifax,  we  saw  two  objects  on  the  further 
bank  which  looked,  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile,  like 
bears,  but  being  quite  near  a  house,  Lewis  thought  they 
must  be  black  hogs  feeding  along  the  beach,  though  they 
looked  too  large  for  hogs  of  this  region.  We  learned 
afterward  that  bears  had  repeatedly  been  seen  on  this 
very  spot,  and  had  carried  off  hogs  from  the  man  who 
lived  there.  So  that  if  we  had  sailed  down  upon  them, 
my  guide  having  his  rifle  and  hound  in  the  boat,  might 
probably  have  killed  one  or  both. 

Having  caught  these  black  bass  (Grystes  salmoides)  in 


126  BASS   FISHING   OK   SPRUCE   CREEK. 

three  rivers  in  Florida,  the  St.  John,  the  Tomoka,  and 
Spruce  creek,  I  find  them  to  be  of  about  the  average 
size  of  the  same  species  in  the  western  waters,  viz.,  from 
two  to  three  pounds  ;  and  although  they  may  grow 
larger  here  than  in  the  western  lakes  and  rivers,  yet  I 
am  inclined  to  think  that  those  weighing  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  pounds,  said  to  have  been  taken  here,  were  esti 
mated  rather  than  weighed. 

S.  C.  CLARKE. 


XV. 


HUNTING    THE  PANTHEK. 

TO  the  average  Florida  tourist,  who  sails  luxuriously 
up  the  St.  John's,  or  stays  idling  at  the  hotel,  the 
idea  that  there  are  predatory  animals  in  the  State  rarely 
occurs.  It  is  only  to  the  camper-out  that  the  privilege 
of  making  their  acquaintance  is  vouchsafed.  If  he 
camp  in  a  place  sufficiently  remote  from  civilization  he 
will  probahly  be  favored  with  a  sight  at  the  animal  men 
tioned  above.  It  is  more  than  likely  that  he  will  be 
favored  with  its  moaning  cry,  or  see  its  signs  about  his 
camp.  The  panther  is  so  rarely  seen,  however,  that  it 
is  regarded  as  mythical  by  many  men  professing  to  be 
hunters.  It  has  been  my  rare  good  fortune  to  meet 
with,  and  be  in  at  the  death  of  one,  and  soon  after  the 
demise  of  several  others.  There  is  a  vast  difference 
existing  between  this  panther,  tiger,  or  puma,  and  the 
wild-cat,  or  lynx.  The  latter  animal,  and  another,  the 
catamount,  occur  in  Florida,  but  are  not  half  the  size  of 
the  panther.  The  latter  has  been  found  measuring  nine 
feet  from  tip  to  tip.  I  have  seen  one  measuring  eight 
feet  four  inches,  and  have  the  skin  of  one  measuring 
eight  feet  good.  In  color,  the  panther  is  a  yellowish- 
brown,  darker  on  the  back,  growing  to  a  yellowish- 
white  on  the  belly.  It  has  great  strength,  and  no  pack 
of  dogs  can  successfully  attack  one.  It  frequents  the 


128  HUNTING   TIIE    PANTHER. 

swamps  and  hammocks  during  the  day,  and  seeks  its 
prey  by  night.  Old  hunters  say  it  remains  concealed  in 
the  large  trees,  ready  to  drop  upon  unwary  travellers. 
Its  tracks  may  be  frequently  seen  in  the  woods  back  of 
Indian  river,  or  interior.  I  have  been  told  that  an 
animal  larger  than  this,  spotted  and  striped — in  fact, 
the  regular  tiger — was  seen  near  New  Smyrna,  but  this 
is  the  only  related  instance,  and  not  likely  to  prove 
correct.  This  animal  is  more  generally  known  by  the 
name  of  tiger  than  any  other,  and  as  such  is  spoken  of 
with  dread  by  the  "crackers."  The  only  panther  I 
ever  had  a  hand  in  killing  was  a  goodly  sized  one  near 
Hope  Sound.  I  was  camped  at  St.  Sebastian  creek,  and 
having  with  me  the  prince  of  boatmen,  Jim  E.,  lacked 
not  in  either  fish  or  game.  But  duck  and  fish  were  not 
enough  to  satisfy,  even  in  the  abundance  provided  there 
by  a  lavish  nature,  and  I  cast  about  for  some  new 
diversion. 

It  was  at  this  period  that  Jim  suggested  we  should 
go  down  the  river  and  secure  the  skeleton  of  a  manatee 
we  had  discovered  a  month  previous.  It  was  just  the 
thing,  and  we  were  soon  sailing  down  river  with  a  fair 
wind.  It  was  about  fifty  miles,  and  we  camped  that 
night  a  dozen  miles  from  our  destination.  When  we 
awoke  next  morning  we  discovered  that  our  whole  stock 
of  pork  was  missing.  Further  search  revealed  the 
tracks  of  a  panther,  and,  connecting  the  circumstances, 
we  were  at  no  loss  to  account  for  the  absence  of  the 
pork.  The  most  aggravating  circumstance  was,  that 
the  theft  had  been  committed  while  we  had  a  dog  in  the 
camp,  whose  sole  purpose  was  to  guard  our  property.  It 
was  useless  to  follow  up  the  trail,  as  it  was  soon  lost,  and 
wo  left  cam})  and  entered  the  Narrows,  beneath  the 


HUNTING   THE   PANTHER.  129 

shade  of  India  rubber  and  palm.  The  manatee  we 
were  in  search  of  had  been  discovered  in  a  decomposed 
state,  so,  as  it  was  securely  lodged  in  a  bend  of  the 
channel,  we  had  left  it  to  the  tender  mercies  of  a 
coroner's  jury  of  vultures,  intending  to  return  for  it 
later.  Now  we  had  returned,  and  making  our  boat  fast 
over  the  spot  where  we  supposed  the  ivory  lay,  we  pro 
ceeded  to  business.  As  the  only  method  of  getting  it 
was  by  diving,  and  the  water  swarmed  with  the  ugliest 
alligators  ever  seen  by  mortal  man,  there  was  no  rivalry 
between  Jim  and  myself — in  fact,  Jim  desired  to  give 
me  precedence  ;  he  was  perfectly  willing  I  should  take 
the  lead  in  the  way  of  diving,  and  developed  a  new 
feature  in  his  disposition.  Around  our  camp  fire  he 
always  manifested  a  disposition  to  secure  a  front  seat 
when  the  pork  and  flapjacks  came  along,  but  now  a 
change  had  come  over  him,  and  my  impetuous  Jim 
seemed  inclined  to  resign  the  role  of  leader,  and  be 
content  with  that  of  follower.  But  I  was  not  at  all 
desirous  of  securing  glory  at  his  expense,  and  so  he 
went  overboard  first  and  I  followed.  The  water  was 
about  neck  deep,  and  rather  cold.  Our  mode  of  opera 
tion  was  to  wade  about,  feeling  the  mud  beneath  us  with 
our  feet  for  the  ivory.  Occasionally  we  would  assume 
the  position  of  ducks  feeding  in  shallow  water,  groping 
about  the  mud  with  our  hands.  With  our  heads  under 
water  we  might  have  reminded  a  disinterested  spectator 
— though  there  was  not  another  white  man  in  a  radius 
of  a  dozen  miles — of  the  ostrich  who  thought  so  long  as 
his  head  was  covered  his  extremities  were  secure.  But 
we  didn't  think  so,  for  we  were  constantly  thinking  of 
our  unprotected  parts,  and  we  often  wondered  whether 
6* 


130  HUNTIKG   THE   PANTHER. 

the  saying  that  an  alligator  wouldn't  bite  a  white  man 
were  true. 

It  was  upon  coming  up  from  such  a  position  as  I 
have  described  that  I  heard  a  low  growl  from  our  dog,  a 
huge  old  mastiff,  whom  we  had  left  aboard  the  boat. 
Following  the  direction  of  his  fixed  and  eager  gaze,  I 
saw,  as  soon  as  the  water  had  cleared  from  my  eyes,  a 
huge,  cat-like  animal  stealthily  moving  among  the  man 
groves  on  shore.  I  remember  getting  a  glimpse  of  a 
burning  pair  of  eyes,  and  then  I  imitated  the  ostrich 
before  alluded  to,  and  stuck  my  head  under  water  and 
started  for  the  boat.  Jim  had  seen  the  animal  at  about 
the  same  time,  and  although  I  started  first  for  the  boat, 
he  had  reached  it  first,  being  much  nearer. 

Snatching  my  double-barrelled  breech-loader,  and 
slipping  in  a  couple  of  buckshot  cartridges,  he  jumped 
into  his  breeches  and  then  jumped  ashore,  and 
was  far  on  the  trail  of  panther  and  dog  before  I  had 
equipped  myself  for  the  race.  Putting  on  pants  and 
moccasins,  I  took  a  large  bowie  knife,  the  only  available 
weapon,  and  insanely  followed  on  the  trail.  It  was  long 
and  circuitous,  but  I  finally  found  them — Jim  and  the 
dog — a  mile  or  so  from  the  boat.  I  knew  from  the 
silence  of  the  dog,  some  time  before  I  reached  them, 
that  the  panther  was  treed,  and  did  not  need  Jim's 
information  to  that  effect.  It  was  in  a  small  hammock 
of  an  acre  or  so  that  they  had  brought  him  to  bay,  and 
after  closely  reconnoitring  we  concluded  he  would  be 
likely  to  stay  till  dark,  and  that  it  would  be  best  for 
one  of  us  to  return  and  get  some  more  ammunition  and 
the  rest  of  our  clothes.  Accordingly,  I  remained  guard 
ing  the  hammock  until  Jim  returned  with  the  necessary 
articles.  Taking  courage,  from  a  small  stock  we  had 


HUNTING  THE   PANTHER.  131 

by  us  in  a  small  bottle,  we  proceeded  to  make  a 
thorough  and  systematic  search  for  the  panther. 

The  hammock  was  in  the  pine  woods,  and  was  just 
such  a  one  as  is  common  in  the  Florida  pine  barrens — a 
collection  of  oaks  and  other  deciduous  trees,  with  an 
abundance  of  vines  and  undergrowth. 

We  proceeded  but  slowly,  for  neither  of  us  cared  to 
meet  the  animal  without  an  introduction,  and  it  was 
late  in  the  afternoon  when  we  approached  the  centre  of 
the  clump  toward  which  we  had  been  steadily  working. 
We  had  held  the  dog  back  all  this  time,  for  fear  he  would 
cause  the  beast  to  take  refuge  in  another  hammock,  but 
but  no  sooner  had  we  reached  this  central  clump  of  old 
oaks  and  tangled  briers,  than  he  dashed  madly  forward 
and  wildly  clawed  at  the  bark  of  a  huge  old  oak  some 
forty  yards  away.  A  panther  in  a  tree  is  a  trouble 
some  thing  to  see,  especially  after  the  sun  has  dipped 
below  the  horizon  ;  and  again,  the  color  of  a  panther  so 
assimilates  with  that  of  the  rough  brown  bark  that  it 
takes  a  sharp  eye  to  detect  one,  even  when  you  know 
he  is  there. 

Guided  by  Jim's  finger,  I  saw  two  fiery  eyes  gleaming 
from  over  a  large  limb,  close  to  the  trunk  of  the  tree. 
Ugh  !  how  they  pierced  me.  They  seemed  to  burn  me 
through  and  through.  Following  down  I  soon  saw  the 
animal's  tail,  nervously  working  from  side  to  side.  His 
body  was  hidden  behind  the  tree. 

"There"  said  Jim,  "you  take  the  gun  and  shoot 
just  below  his  eyes.  If  you  do  that  you'll  likely  hit  him 
in  the  throat." 

"  No,  Jim,  I  think  you  can  do  this  business  best ; 
you  see  I  am  not  not  much  in  the  panther  line,  anyhow." 

"No,  you  be  hanged  !  you  can  shoot  better'n  I  can 


132  HUNTING   THE   PANTHER. 

with  that  gun,  and  besides,  you  can  hit  him  as  he  jumps, 
for  you're  good  on  the  wing,  you  know.  I'll  stand  ready 
to  stick  him  when  he  falls,  old  boy,  an'  I'll  fix  him  if 
you  don't." 

So  saying,  he  handed  me  the  gun  and  took  the  bowie. 
I  always  had  thought  I  should  like  to  kill  a  panther,  and 
had  often  pictured  to  myself  a  panther  in  my  clutches, 
with  my  left  hand  hold  of  his  tongue  and  my  right  in  the 
act  of  plunging  a  knife  into  his  throat.  But  now  the 
supreme  moment  had  arrived  I  was  actually  shaking  with 
fear,  or  something  akin,  and  refusing  the  high  honor  of 
killing  one.  But  I  knew  that,  as  Jim  had  said,  it  was 
best  that  I  should  start  the  panther  up  and  leave  to  him 
the  coup  de  grace.  Settling  myself  to  tins,  I  tried,  by  a 
desperate  effort,  to  quiet  my  nerves.  Securing  a  posi 
tion  behind  the  trunk  of  a  palmetto,  I  rested  the  gun 
against  it  and  sighted  just  below  those  blazing  orbs.  It 
was  an  eventful  moment.  It  was  to  fire  or  not  to  fire — 
to  leave  the  panther  unprovoked,  or  arouse  a  terrible 
destructive  power  that  nothing  but  death  would  allay. 
My  hand  yet  trembled,  and  I  let  the  barrels  fall  ;  but, 
with  a  powerful  effort,  I  held  the  sight  upon  the  panther's 
throat  again  and  fired.  With  the  report  came  a  howl  of 
anguish  and  a  rushing  noise  as  the  huge  animal  launched 
himself  into  the  air.  There  were  no  shaking  limbs  now, 
but  with  nerves  and  muscles  tense,  I  held  my  gun  upon 
him,  and  stopped  him  midway  his  leap,  as  it  were.  I 
have  shot  birds  when  their  flight  was  so  swift  that  their 
wings  seemed  a  misty  film,  but  never,  it  seemed  to  me, 
had  I  such  speed  and  velocity  to  overcome  before. 

lie  fell  nearly  at  my  feet,  and  the  dog  was  upon  him 
ere  he  had  hardly  touched  the  ground.  The  growling, 
snarling,  and  snapping  that  ensued  was  horrible  beyond 


HUNTING   THE    PAXTHER.  133 

description,  but  it  struck  no  terror  to  the  heart  of  my 
guide,  for,  watching  his  opportunity,  he  rushed  in  and 
plunged  the  long  bowie  almost  to  the  hilt  in  the  pan 
ther's  side.  Groaning  and  gasping  for  breath,  the  ani 
mal  tottered,  fell  upon  his  side  and  yielded  at  last,  over 
come  by  superior  numbers.  We  skinned  him  that  night 
by  the  light  of  a  fire  of  light  wood.  The  skull,  with  two 
broken  fangs,  a  paw  and  the  claws,  are  in  my  cabinet 
now,  and  they  are  ready  to  vouch  for  this  story,  even  as 
the  man  was  willing  to  show  the  pen  he  wrote  the  letter 
with.  My  first  shot  had  broken  two  of  his  fangs,  and  the 
second  had  broken  a  fore-leg,  besides  wounding  him 
internally. 

The  panther  is  a  cowardly  animal,  and  will  not  attack 
man.  This  refers  to  the  Southern  panther — but  in 
stances  are  well  authenticated  where  it  has  followed 
women  and  children,  evidently  with  murder  in  its  heart. 
Indeed,  I  remember  now  an  incident  related  by  a  settler, 
of  a  negro  child  being  devoured  by  a  panther,  but  cannot 
recall  the  locality  of  the  occurrence.  They  are  fond  of 
hogs,  however,  and  will  often  risk  considerable  to  cap 
ture  a  good  porker — a  rarity,  by  the  way,  in  Florida. 
The  day  before  my  arrival  at  the  Kissimmee  river  a 
panther  came  up  to  a  settler's  cabin  in  broad  daylight, 
and  carried  of  a  full-grown  sow,  the  mother  of  a  large 
family,  before  the  eyes  of  the  settler's  wife  and  children. 
The  next  day  dogs  were  gathered,  and  a  hunt  instituted 
that  resulted  in  the  death  of  the  panther,  a  huge  eight- 
footer. 

Near  Fort  Drum,  in  the  interior  of  Florida,  panthers 
have  been  very  troublesome  of  late  years,  and  are  often 
killed  there.  That  they  will  kill  dogs,  I  have  the  testi 
mony  of  an  old  guide  and  hunter,  who  described  to  me 


134  HUNTING  THE   PANTHER. 

an  "accident "  happening  to  his  dog  upon  the  very  place 
where  we  then  camped.  He  said  he  was  camped  there, 
had  his  mosquito  bar  pitched,  and  had  gone  to  sleep. 
Something,  he  knew  not  what,  awoke  him,  just  in  time  to 
see  a  dark  body  leap  over  his  bar  and  pounce  upon  the 
dog.  There  was  a  short  struggle,  and  then  the  worthy 
guide  was  minus  a  good  dog.  He  didn't  take  part  in 
the  fight,  but  was  a  quiet,  if  not  disinterested,  spectator. 
Sometimes  they  will  manifest  the  utmost  contempt 
for  man,  and  will  seem  to  take  delight  in  keeping  him  in 
suspense.  An  old  "live-oaker"  told  me  that  he  came 
upon  two  panthers  in  a  narrow  trail,  and  that  they 
walked  ahead  of  him  to  the  shore  of  the  river,  where 
one  of  them  sat  down  and  refused  to  move.  Upon  his 
companion  throwing  a  "chunk  of  light  wood,"  at  it,  it 
merely  started  a  little,  and  snarled  in  a  way  that  con 
vinced  the  two  live-oakers  that  it  "wasn't  goin'  to  stan' 
no  nonsense."  They  left  him  there.  Another  live-oaker, 
a  chopper,  was  engaged  in  squaring  a  fallen  tree,-  when  a 
full-grown  panther  came  up  and  quietly  carried  away  his 
dinner,  which  lay  upon  the  other  end  of  the  log.  This 
act,  though  very  gracefully  and  daintily  done,*eo  alarmed 
the  man  that  he  dropped  his  axe  and  ran  into  camp,  a 
mile  or  more.  But  the  panther  devoured  his  dinner. 

FRED  BEVERLY. 


XVI. 
THE  ENVIRONS   OF  TALLAHASSEE. 


City  of  Tallahassee,  the  capital  of  the  State 
of  Florida,  is  situated  in  Leon  county,  about  thirty 
miles  north  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  half-way  between 
the  eastern  and  western  limits  of  the  State.  Tallahassee 
is  an  Indian  word,  and  signifies,  "old  fields."  The 
present  site  of  the  city  was  perhaps  long  ago  the  corn 
fields  of  the  savages.  It  is  situated  upon  the  broad,  flat 
top  of  a  hill,  and  is  about  a  mile  in  length,  by  three- 
eighths  in  breadth.  Its  people  are  hospitable,  refined, 
polite,  and  very  sociable  ;  and  the  stranger  visiting  there 
will  receive  more  attention  than  at  any  other  city  in  the 
South.  It  is  a  very  paradise  for  bachelors,  011  account 
of  the  number,  the  beauty,  and  the  charming  manners 
of  the  ladies.  The  climate  is  very  pleasant,  and  the 
number  of  soft,  warm  "Indian  summer  "days  during 
the  winter,  is  very  great  —  and,  though  a  fire  is  necessary 
in  the  evenings,  yet,  during  the  day  the  visitor  can  re 
main  almost  entirely  in  the  open  air  with  comfort  and 
pleasure. 

To  the  sportsman,  the  prospect  is  admirable.  In 
every  direction,  for  miles  from  the  town,  are  wide  fields, 
which  swarm  with  quail.  A  fair  day's  shooting  —  allow 
ing  the  sportsman  to  take  his  breakfast  at  a  reasonable 
hour,  and  start  leisurely,  returning  for  supper  at  dark  — 


136  Tin-;  KXYIKOXS  OF  TALLAHASSEE. 

for  a  good  shot,  und  wiili  a  good  dog,  is  not  less  than 
from  sixty  to  one  hundred  and  forty  birds.  The  coveys 
are  all  large,  and  often  two  or  more  are  found  in  one 
field.  In  the  neighborhood  of  the  town  are  many  small 
lakes,  in  which  duck  and  other  wild  fowl  are  plentiful, 
while  at  Lakes  Lafayette  and  Jackson,  six  miles  distant, 
and  some  miles  in  extent,  there  is  good  fishing  as  well 
as  good  shooting.  About  two  miles  from  town,  and 
on  a  high  hill,  which  lies  between  several  small  lakes,  is 
a  favorite  resort  for  duck-shooters — as  the  birds  are 
continually  passing  and  repassing  from  lake  to  lake. 
There  is  abundance  of  accommodation  in  the  city,  and 
the  young  gentlemen  take  pleasure  in  giving  the  sports 
man  all  necessary  information  and  assistance.  Horses 
and  vehicles  are  readily  obtained.  Deer  are  often  killed 
within  a  few  miles  of  the  town,  as  well  as  wild  turkeys. 

St.  Mark's,  but  an  hour's  ride  from  the  city  by  rail, 
is  on  the  Gulf  ;  and  the  fishing  and  wild  fowl  shooting 
is  of  the  best.  Boats  and  assistants  are  easily  had. 

One  of  the  pleasantest  trips,  is  a  visit  to  the  famous 
\Vakulla  Spring — which  lies  about  sixteen  miles  from 
Tallahassee,  almost  due  south — and  out  of  which  flows 
the  Wakulla  river,  a  stream  a  hundred  feet  wide,  and 
three  feet  deep,  with  a  two-mile  current  where  it  leaves 
the  spring.  The  route,  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
miles  near  Tallahassee,  is  through  the  pine  woods,  which 
extend  to  the  very  edge  of  the  spring  ;  though,  as  the 
ground  begins  to  fall,  there  is  a  considerable  intermixture 
of  other  varieties  of  timber,  and  a  heavy  undergrowth. 
The  AYakulla  Spring  is  about  fifty  yards  long,  by  seventy- 
five  broad,  and  is  famous  for  the  transparency  of  its 
waters.  Floating  in  a  boat  on  its  surface,  one  seems 
suspended  in  mid  air — and,  when  the  day  is  perfectly 


THE   EX VI RONS   OF  TALLAHASSEE.  137 

calm,  the  water  smooth  and  the  sun  bright,  the  illusion 
is  perfect.  The  ordinary  depth  of  the  spring  is  eighty- 
five  feet,  and  objects  on  its  bottom  can  be  seen  almost 
as  plainly  as  if  held  in  the  hand.  Visitors  usually  take 
with  them  small,  round,  bright  pieces  of  tin,  which 
appear  like  tiny  mirrors  lying  on  the  bottom,  which  is 
smooth  and  covered  with  a  fine  white  sand.  On  the 
western  side  is  a  broad  ledge  or  cliif  of  rock,  the  top 
of  which  is  sixty-five  feet  below  the  surface.  At  the 
edge  of  this  cliff  the  water  is  black,  and  I  found  bottom 
at  a  little  over  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet.  Out 
of  this  Gulf  the  stream  seems  to  gush,  and  one  can  see 
the  fish  floating  over  in  front  of  it,  steadily  maintaining 
their  position — though  the  somewhat  quick  motion  of 
the  fins  and  tail  show  the  resistance  they  are  obliged  to 
overcome. 

The  water  is  impregnated  with  limestone,  and  is  icy 
cold.  One  or  two  persons  who  have  experimented  in 
swimming  in  this  spring,  after  a  few  seconds'  immersion, 
became  so  benumbed  as  to  require  assistance  to  get  back 
into  the  boat.  The  sides  of  the  spring  are  very  steep  ; 
being  almost  perpendicular  for  some  distance  below  the 
surface.  The  river  leading  from  the  spring  is  full  of 
grass,  and  among  this  lie  the  fish.  Fishing  with  a  line  is 
out  of  the  question — but  many  are  caught  with  a  "gig." 

There  is  a  legend  connected  with  the  spring,  which 
goes  on  to  say  that  many  years  ago,  long  before  the  white 
man  trod  the  shores  of  America,  this  spring  was  a  little 
fountain,  and  was  the  favorite  resort  of  a  pair  of  masto 
dons.  One  day  while  standing  at  the  spring,  cooling 
themselves  by  throwing  over  their  backs  "trunkfuls" 
of  the  icy  water,  the  ground  suddenly  gave  way  beneath 
their  feet — and  the  ill-fated  pair  found  themselves  swim- 


138  THE   EXVIROXS   OF   TALLAHASSEE. 

ming  in  a  lake  of  ice-cold  water.  Terrifically  they 
"trumpeted,"  and  frantically  they  strove  to  clamber 
out  upon  the  bank — but  the  steep  sides  afforded  no 
foot-hold — until  benumbed  and  overcome  with  the  cold, 
and  feebly  struggling,  they  sank,  with  their  trunks  lov 
ingly  entwined,  to  rise  no  more.  As  my  fair  informant 
remarked  :  "  lovingly  they  had  spent  their  lives  together, 
and  in  death  they  were  not  divided."  The  bones  of  the 
ill-fated  pair  remained  long  at  the  bottom  of  the  spring 
— a  memento  of  their  fidelity  and  their  fate.  Some 
years  ago,  some  enterprising  individuals  succeeded  in 
getting  out  their  skeletons,  which  were  large  and  per 
fect,  and  shipped  them  to  Kew  York.  The  vessel  was 
wrecked  during  the  voyage  and  they  were  lost.* 

The  country  around  Tallahassee  is  attractive  and 
beautifully  undulating.  There  are  many  fine  views,  and 
pleasant  drives  in  almost  any  direction.  All  the  varieties 
of  forest  vegetation  peculiar  to  the  country  are  abun 
dant.  The  superb  magnolia,  with  its  glossy  deep-green 
leaves  and  large  cream-white  flowers,  the  bay-tree,  the 
live-oak,  so  famed  for  ship  timber,  the  scarlet  oak,  the 
sweet  gum,  the  sycamore,  the  long-leaved  pine,  the  ca- 
talpa,  the  hickory,  the  beech,  the  wild  plum  and  crab- 
apple,  of  size  almost  incredible  until  seen  ;  the  dogwood, 
whose  large  white  flowers,  and  berries  of  vivid  scarlet, 
far  exceed  in  size  those  of  its  northern  compeer ;  grape, 
and  other  vines  of  every  variety  and  size  ;  the  yellow 
jessamine,  which  climbs  the  trees  and  overspreads  their 
tops  with  its  clusters,  and  hangs  in  graceful  festoons 
from  every  branch,  in  a  wealth  of  floral  profusion  which 

*  Chas.  Lanman,  Esq.,  in  his  "  Wilds  of  America,"  says  that 
the  bones  referred  to  were  sent  to  Philadelphia  by  Qeo.  S.  King, 
of  Florida,  and  deposited  in  the  museum  there. — ED. 


THE  ENVIRONS  OF  TALLAHASSEE.  139 

illumines  its  surroundings,  and  covers  its  forest  sup 
porters  with  a  crown  of  glory.  Along  the  fences  and 
hedges  the  Cherokee  rose — I  may  tell  you  its  legend 
some  day — clambers  in  wild  luxuriance,  its  fair  snow- 
white  blossoms  shining  like  stars  in  the  dusk  of  the 
evening,  as  you  ride  along.  The  oleander,  the  Cape  jes 
samine  and  the  crepe-myrtle,  puny  shrubs  and  hot-house 
plants  at  the  North,  here  are  trees,  that  grow  to  the 
height  of  twenty  feet.  The  camellia,  too,  reaches  the 
height  of  ten  feet  or  more,  and  living  in  the  open  air, 
blossoms  with  a  luxuriance  unknown  to  its  sisters  of  the 
northern  conservatory. 

But  why  say  more.  The  lover  of  the  rod  and  gun 
keenly  appreciates  all  of  nature's  loveliness — and  where 
is  the  beauty  and  delicacy  of  God's  handiwork  more 
manifest  than  in  the  "  Land  of  Flowers  "  ? 

AUG.  K.  EGBERT. 


XVII. 
PRIVATE  DOUGHERTY  AND   THE  BASS. 

I  CHEERFULLY  contribute  at  this  opportune  season 
the  following  data,  showing,  first  where  big  bass 
have  been  caught  by  me,  and  secondly,  why  I  am  sure 
they  can  be  caught  again. 

First :  Every  steamboat  captain  who  goes  up  the  St. 
Johns  river,  Florida,  will  be  able  to  point  out  where  old 
Fort  Butler  was  situated,  some  fifteen  miles  above  Lake 
George,  and  on  the  south  side  of  the  river.  About  five 
miles  above  this  spot,  and  on  the  south  side  of  the  river, 
another  small  river  will  be  found  emptying  into  it, 
between  marked  embankments,  having  a  wild  orange 
grove  on  the  one  side  and  on  the  other  small  trees  and 
bushes.  This  river  was  called  the  Little  Weekiwa  when 
I  fished  in  it  ;  its  mouth  is  quite  open  and  prominent, 
and  I  think  about  eight  rods  across  ;  its  waters  are  clear 
and  cool,  and  pass  out  into  the  St.  Johns  over  a  smooth 
aud  shelly  bottom.  Its  depth  is  some  ten  feet  or  more, 
and  its  western  bank  good  for  camping,  and  landing 
heavy  fish  with  pole  and  line.  Fish  directly  across  its 
mouth,  and  if  you  hit  the  proper  time,  I  will  warrant 
you  fish  that  will  make  your  arms  ache  to  handle. 

Second  :  Why  I  am  sure  they  can  be  caught  now.  The 
reader  will  at  once  see  from  my  description  of  the  place 
that  here  at  the  mouth  of  this  fine  river  must  be  a  mag- 


PRIVATE   DOUGHERTY   A^D  THE  BASS.  141 

nificent  place  for  the  big  bass  of  the  great  St.  Johns, 
some  four  hundred  miles  in  length,  in  places  miles  broad, 
deep,  abounding  in  small  fish,  lily  pads,  etc.,  to  congre 
gate  annually  for  spawning  and  other  purposes.  But 
the  proof  of  good  fishing  lies  not  in  appearances  always, 
for  these  are  often  very  deceptive,  as  the  fisherman  well 
knows.  No— better  proof  lies  in  the  actual  trials  made 
here  by  myself  and  one  other — Private  Dougherty,  of 
K  company,  second  United  States  dragoons.  He  was 
the  "  Peter  "  of  his  company,  and  fished  for  over  sixty 
men ;  and  when  I  think  of  these  times  and  recall  the 
facts,  it  almost  makes  my  now  old  gray  hairs  stand  on 
end.  This  may  be  a  weakness,  'tis  true,  but  yet  the  tales 
lose  none  of  their  interest  with  me.  I  trust  younger 
sportsmen  will  at  least  admire  my  veneration.  If  not,  I 
am  but  the  mirror  of  their  fate,  and  true  to  life. 

And  now  to  my  story,  which  is  short,  sweet,  true, 
and  very  conclusive.  With  a  slight  preface,  so  as  to 
reveal  the  scene  behind  the  curtains,  I  will  say,  that  in 
1838,  during  the  Florida  war,  I  doffed  the  ever-memor 
able  "gray  and  bullet-buttoned  coat,"  for  the  more 
envied  long-tailed  blue.  I  was  at  once  ushered  into  ser 
vice  by  being  stationed  that  fall,  winter,  and  spring  at  the 
above-named  post ;  then  two  days'  time  from  any  other 
civilized  place,  steamboat  time  at  that,  and  as  for  "com 
mon  time,"  in  which  I  had  been  drilled,  why,  we  had 
no  logarithmic  tables  there  to  calculate  it.  Suffice  it  we 
were  seventy  strong  right  in  the  heart  of  Florida,  and 
about  ten  days'  travel  from  all  signs  of  civilization,  I 
landed  here  by  (-(  walking  the  plank  "  from  a  small  steam 
boat,  thence  into  the  pine  barren.  Glorious,  indeed  ! 
Story  !  your  story,  anon  ! 

Well,  one  morning  I  went  to  inspect  the  company's 


142  PRIVATE   DOUGHERTY  AND  THE  BASS. 

mess  and  rations,  when  to  my  astonishment  I  found  the 
sides  of  the  mess  room  all  covered  over  with  bass  split 
down  on  the  back,  and  as  large  as  codfish,  besides  the 
mess  tables  for  sixty  men  were  smoking  with  hot  fish. 
What  !  thought  I,  am  I  on  the  coast  of  Newfoundland, 
among  the  cod  fisheries  of  New  England,  or  am  I  in 
Florida  ?  I  will  inquire,  perhaps  I  am  in  a  dream. 
"Sergeant,"  said  I,  "you  seem  to  have  plenty  of  fish 
here  ;  where  did  you  get  them  ?  "  He  replied  :  "  Dough 
erty  is  a  fisherman,  and  he  goes  up  the  river  every  few 
days  and  catches  what  fish  the  men  can  eat."  "Tell 
him  I  wish  to  see  him."  "Yes,  Lieutenant,"  replied 
the  sergeant,  touching  his  cap.  (Enter  Dougherty) 
"  Dougherty,  where  do  you  catch  all  these  fish,  and  how 
do  you  do  it?"  "I  catch  them,"  said  he,  "up  the 
river,  with  a  line  and  hook  ;  I  troll  for  them.  I  first 
use  a  piece  of  white  fat  pork  rind,  cut  thin,  for  a  bait, 
and  after  this  I  use  a  white  strip  cut  out  of  the  belly  of 
the  fish,  and  about  three  inches  long ;  these  last  longer 
and  save  the  pork,  and  are  just  as  good,  if  not  better,  I 
think."  This  was  good  news,  as  well  as  economy  in 
pork  rind.  I  decided  to  try  them.  The  next  day 
Dougherty  and  myself,  armed  with  hook  and  line  only 
sixty  feet  long,  and  a  piece  of  pork  rind  sliced  from  the 
pork  barrel,  started  off  for  the  fishing  grounds.  Soon 
after  passing  a  long  line  of  lily  pads  on  the  right,  we 
came  to  the  mouth  of  the  river  above  described,  and  took 
up  a  place  in  the  centre  of  it.  "  Now,  hold  on,"  said  I, 
"  while  I  cut  off  a  piece  of  this  rind  and  bait  my  hook." 
Tliis  done,  by  hooking  it  at  one  end  so  it  would  play  in 
the  water,  "  Now,"  said  I,  "  you  row  across,"  and  away 
went  my  line  by  a  cast  at  the  same  time,  no  sooner  strik 
ing  the  water  than — splash  !  up  you  go  !  about  two  feet 


PRIVATE   DOUGHEBTY  AtfD  THE  BASS.  143 

into  the  air,  white  belly,  tail,  fins,  and  all  a-flying  down 
you  come,  shaking  and  dangling  with  a  twitch.  "  Pull 
him  in,"  said  Private  Dougherty,  for  I  was  a  novice 
now,  and  had  never  caught  a  fish  before  by  trolling.  I 
obeyed  his  orders  and  soon  had  a  big  bass  in  the  boat. 
The  bait  yet  good,  away  I  cast  it  again.  No  sooner 
done  than — up  she  goes  again  !  and  into  the  boat  I  haul 
him — a  monster  bass,  the  boat  meeting  him  full  half 
way  ;  and  soon  over  it  goes  again,  and  in  comes  another, 
and  still  over  again,  and  still  in  another,  and  so  on  and 
so  forth  to  the  end  of  the  chapter,  with  no  change  ex 
cept  to  use  the  piece  of  belly  for  bait  when  my  other  was 
all  gone.  This  sport  continued  for  less  than  two  hours, 
when  finding  my  boat  nearly  loaded  down,  and  my  little 
fingers  well  cut  and  sore  by  hauling  them  in,  I  concluded 
to  stop  at  the  round  number  of  fifty,  and  returned  to  the 
post.  When  I  weighed  my  fish,  or  at  least  one  of  the 
smallest  and  largest,  the  smallest  weighed  four  and  one- 
half  pounds  and  the  largest  fourteen  and  one-half 
pounds,  giving  a  fair  average  of  ten  pounds,  or  five  hun 
dred  pounds  in  all.  This  looks  like  large  bass  in  the 
St.  Johns  river. 

I  was  not  then  particularly  fond  of  fishing,  and  never 
went  to  the  place  again,  but  Dougherty  told  me  that  he 
continued  to  catch  them  in  this  way  for  some  time 
afterward,  and  until  the  weather  got  warmer,  when 
they  ceased  biting  there  and  went  out  into  the  main 
river,  where  he  caught  them,  though  much  less  abun 
dantly. 

I  visited  the  place,  I  think  about  the  10th  of  March, 
when  the  oranges  were  yellow  and  ripe,  and  lying  on  the 
ground.  Here,  in  my  opinion,  is  the  spot  for  Florida 
sportsmen.  I  think  the  bass  spawn  here  annually,  and 


144  PRIVATE    DOUGHERTY    AND    THE    BASS. 

the  few  that  may  be  caught  will  make  no  difference.  I 
do  not  learn  that  any  settlers  live  near  this  spot.  Land 
from  the  steamer,  pitch  your  tent,  and  throw  the  fly  or 
pull  the  trigger  at  your  option.  I  am  sure  you  will  have 
rare  sport,  and  to  your  full  satisfaction. 

H.  W.  MEKRILL. 


XVIIL 
THE  PET   BIRDS   OF  ST.    AUGUSTINE. 

THIS  is  a  lovely  day.  The  sun  is  bright  and  the  air 
balmy — neither  too  warm  nor  too  cool,  I  am 
writing  by  the  open  window.  Everything  is  as  still  as 
if  it  were  the  Sabbath,  Far  out  in  the  bay  is  a  boat,  in 
which  sits  a  man,  lazily  fishing.  A  querulous  crow  flies 
by,  hoarsely  croaking,  and  the  white  wing  of  a  gull 
gleams  distantly  in  the  sunlight.  The  old  flag  is  gently 
floating  in  the  soft  south  wind.  The  sky  is  blue,  the 
waves  are  bright  and  glancing,  and  a  general  sense  of 
laziness  seems  to  pervade  the  air,  and  one  feels  like 
leaning  on  the  sill  and  gazing  out  on  the  quiet  beauty  of 
the  scene  forever.  In  the  distance,  above  the  belt  of 
dark- green  trees,  is  the  lighthouse,  with  its  pure  white 
tower  pointing  heavenward,  like  a  tall  church  spire,  and 
its  blessed  star  of  hope  on  the  summit.  Right  below  it 
and  cresting  the  sand  hills  of  Anastasia  Island,  is  the 
long  line  of  evergreen,  with  an  occasional  palm-tree, 
whose  feathery  fronds  wave  above  the  general  mass  of 
foliage,  the  very  emblem  of  grace.  To  the  south  are  the 
storehouses  and  buildings  for  the  workmen  engaged  in 
erecting  the  new  lighthouse,  which,  when  completed, 
will  stand  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet  above  the  water, 
with  a  light  of  the  first  order  visible  twenty-eight  miles 
at  sea.  To  the  north  extend  the  long  line  of  breakers 


146  THE    PET    BIRDS    OF    ST.    AUGUSTINE. 

with  their  white-capped  crests  surging  over  the  bar. 
Further  north  yet,  the  snow-white  sand  of  the  heach  and 
the  interminable  line  of  verdureless  "  dunes"  glisten  in 
the  sun.  Nearer  are  the  wide  marshes,  so  infested  with 
rattlesnakes  that  cattle  cannot  graze  there.  Here  and 
there  a  few  clumps  of  scrub  relieve  the  brownish  yellow 
of  the  marsh.  Nearer  yet  is  the  bay,  shimmering  in  the 
sun.  On  the  shore  near  the  sea-wall,  the  tide  is  down. 
A  little  gray-coated  sand-piper  comes  tripping  along  the 
beach,  "  peeking  "  softly  to  itself,  as  if  it  enjoyed  the  sun, 
and  perches  upon  a  warm  stone,  dressing  its  feathers. 
Then  comes  the  sea-wall — a  monument  of  governmental 
patronage,  and  the  favorite  Sabbath  evening  promenade 
of  Minorca's  dark-eyed  beauties.  At  its  terminus,  far  to 
the  north,  loom  up  the  massive  towers  and  frowning 
battlements  of  Fort  San  Marco,  the  pride  of  the  "  ancient 
city."  How  peaceful  the  scene,  for  peaceful  looking  it 
is,  notwithstanding  the  old  fort  looms  in  the  distance, 
with  racks  full  of  great  cannon-balls  and  field-pieces  on 
the  parade  in  the  foreground.  The  day  was  so  lovely 
that,  having  a  few  hours'  leisure,  I  thought  I  would  go 
and  see  "  the  birds,"  so  I  called  on  the  Colonel,  who  is 
a  capital  sailor,  and  finding  him  disengaged,  we  started 
in  his  skiff  (ycleped  by  the  jokers  the  Snorting  Sea 
horse),  and  sailed  up  the  bay  about  a  mile  beyond  the 
town,  passing  the  Old  Fort  and  running  in  among  the 
bayous  which  intersect  the  wide  marshes. 

Have  you  ever  heard  of  the  birds  ?  I  copy  a  slip 
from  the  St.  Augustine  "Press"  which  will  explain  the 
matter  : 

"  We  witnessed  a  novel  and  beautiful  sight  a  few 
days  ago  at  the  farm  of  Mrs.  II.,  situated  on  the  Xorfch 
river,  about  two  miles  above  the  city.  Mrs.  II.,  in  the 


THE   PET   BIRDS   OF   ST.    AUGUSTINE.  147 

course  of  a  few  months,  lias  succeeding  in  taming  the  wild 
birds  that  fly  about  the  place.  While  we  were  in  the 
house,  Mrs.  H.  went  out  to  the  door  and  called  to  the 
birds,  which  were  then,  in  the  middle  of  the  'day,  in  the 
adjoining  forest.  In  a  few  moments  a  dozen  or  more 
blue-birds  and  mocking-birds  came  flying  around  her. 
She  then  came  into  the  house  and  handed  each  of  our 
party  a  raisin,  which  we  were  requested  to  hold  out  in 
our  fingers.  We  remained  still  for  a  few  minutes,  when 
the  birds  hopped  in  at  the  door,  flew  upon  our  hands, 
and  picked  the  raisins  from  our  fingers.  We  were 
astonished,  and  could  not  help  wondering  the  more  when 
we  were  informed  that  none  of  these  birds  had  been 
caged,  but  were  thus  tamed  by  the  gentleness  and  art  of 
this  lady. " 

As  it  may  interest  some  of  your  readers,  and  conduce, 
perhaps,  to  both  pleasure  and  profit,  and  aid  the  cause 
of  the  feathered  tribes  by  inducing  some  of  our  gentle 
and  fair  friends  to  aid  in  their  civilization  and  domesti 
cation,  I  will  give  the  result  of  my  trip,  which  will  show 
the  power  of  continued  gentleness  and  kindness  with 
these  beautiful  denizens  of  our  woods. 

After  landing,  a  pleasant  drive  of  a  mile  or  two,  over 
sandy  roads  and  through  a  thick  chaparral,  brought  us 
to  the  little  farm,  but  we  found  its  occupants  absent,  so 
missed  seeing  the  birds,  which,  as  it  afterward  turned 
out,  would  have  been  the  case  even  had  Mrs.  H.  been  at 
home,  for  her  feathered  visitors  were  of  those  varieties 
which  migrate  from  the  north  and  had  not  yet  returned. 
We  were  driving  back,  a  good  deal  disappointed,  when 
on  the  road  we  met  the  old  lady  and  her  son,  so  we 
stopped  and  held  some  pleasant  talk.  I  told  her  I  had  a 
dear  friend  in  the  distant  North  who  had  read  of  her 


148  THE   PET   BIRDS   OF   ST.    AUGUSTINE. 

birds  with  interest,  and  was  anxious  to  know  how  she 
tamed  them.  I  added  that  my  friend  loved  the  birds, 
but  could  not  succeed  in  winning  them  in  their  wild 
state  to  feed  from  the  hand  as  she  had  done.  Mrs.  II. 
seemed  much  pleased  at  this,  and  smilingly  began  to 
tell  me  how  it  had  been  brought  about.  She  is  a  placid 
looking  old  lady  about  sixty-five,  but  young  and  active 
for  her  years.  She  and  her  son,  a  young  man  of  twenty- 
five,  had  bought  a  tract  of  land  about  two  miles  north 
of  this  city  (St.  Augustine),  put  up  a  shingle  house,  and 
there  they  lived.  They  are  farmers,  sell  berries,  corn, 
potatoes,  poultry,  etc.,  and  thus  obtain  a  comfortable 
livelihood.  Their  house  is  on  the  edge  of  a  bayou  lead 
ing  to  the  North  river,  just  between  the  marshes  and  the 
woods,  on  comparatively  high  ground  ;  a  pretty  site,  with 
a  fine  outlook  toward  the  sea.  They  were  very  lonely 
there,  however,  no  near  neighbors  and  but  few  passers  by. 
"  It  all  came  of  my  being  so  lonely,"  said  Mrs.  II., 
"  and" — I  give  her  own  words  as  nearly  as  I  remember— 
"  for  the  sake  of  company  I  began  to  make  friends  with 
the  birds,  though  the  beginning  of  our  friendship  was 
rather  accidental,  too.  I  always  threw  out  the  crumbs 
from  the  table,  and  as  I  did  so  I  noticed  a  great  many 
birds  would  come  and  pick  them  up.  They  were  so 
pretty  and  trusting,  I  thought  it  would  be  a  pleasant 
thing  to  have  them  round  me,  so  I  determined  to  make 
a  regular  habit  of  feeding  them  every  day,  and  I  began 
to  throw  my  crumbs  and  handsful  of  grain  far  from  the 
house  toward  the  grove,  each  day  a  little  nearer  and 
nearer  till  I  got  them  right  'round  the  door.  All  this 
time  I  was  very  careful  not  to  frighten  my  little  friends. 
I  had  no  children  about  the  house,  and  did  not  keep 
either  a  dog  or  cat,  so  the  quiet  could  not  be  broken — 


THE  PET  BIRDS  OF  ST.    AUGUSTINE.  149 

there  was  nothing  to  alarm  or  startle,  and  the  birds  soon 
became  fearless.  Then/'  she  added,  "  my  son  noticed 
what  I  was  doing  and  joined  me,  and  by  degrees,  the 
birds  learned  to  know  him  and  trust  him  as  they  did  me. 
After  they  had  been  feeding  'round  the  door  for  some 
time,  I  put  some  of  the  crumbs  in  my  hand  and  held  it 
perfectly  still.  Then  they  hopped  up  and  began  to  eat 
from  my  fingers.  I  knew  I  had  their  hearts  then. 
Finding  I  never  tried  to  catch  them,  they  came  into  the 
house,  twittered  about  and  fed  without  fear.  I  now 
began  to  call  them,  and  as  the  little  creatures  knew  this 
meant  food  (for  I  never  disappointed  them),  they  learned 
to  know  my  voice  and  came  readily  at  my  call." 

Mrs.  H.  informed  me  that  this  continued  for  some 
time,  when  strangers  heard  of  it,  and  began  to  drive  out 
to  see  her  pets  ;  perfect  quiet  was  enjoined,  and  the  touch 
ing  or  catching  of  any  bird  was  carefully  prohibited. 
The  little  creatures  were  perfectly  fearless,  coming  at 
her  call,  no  matter  who  was  there,  and  fluttering  and 
twittering  about  her.  Many  people  had  been  there  and 
seen  it,  and,  said  she,  "I  have  received  many  letters 
inquiring  my  method  of  so  completely  taming  wild  wood 
birds,  but  there  is  nothing  about  it,  no  charm,  only 
kindness  and  perfect  freedom  from  harm  or  annoyance." 
The  birds  went  north  in  the  spring,  and  this  had  been 
the  first  year  Mrs.  H.  tried  feeding  them,  and  accident 
and  loneliness  had  brought  about  this  pleasant  friendship. 
"  I  do  hope  it  won't  be  broken  off,"  she  added  earnestly, 
"  I  want  the  birds  to  come  back.  I  have  learned  to 
love  them,  so  I  could  not  bear  them  to  forget  me." 

Such  was  her  story.  I  assured  her  that  many,  if  not 
all  her  birds,  would  return,  and  very  likely  bring  their 
little  ones  with  them,  that  such  were  their  habits,  and 


150  THE   PET   BIRDS   OF   ST.    AUGUSTINE. 

if  my  friend  came  to  this  land  of  flowers,  we  would  be 
sure  to  remember  and  come  to  see  both  herself  and  her 
birds.  I  must  not  forget  to  add  that  I  asked  her  what 
kind  of  birds  were  her  guests.  "  I  can  hardly  tell  you," 
she  said,  "there  are  so  many  that  I  do  not  know  ;  but  I 
see  plenty  of  mocking-birds  among  them,  blue  jays,  blue 
birds,  robins,  and  little  brown  birds,  which  are  very 
sociable."  By  these  last  I  recognized  the  friendly  little 
sparrows  so  familiar  to  us  at  home.  She  also  told  me  they 
expected  to  build  a  new  house,  and  she  wondered  if  the 
birds  would  consider  that  a  safe  home,  and  come  there  too. 

So  we  parted,  she  to  her  lonely  home  and  we  to  the 
barracks.  But  the  memory  of  that  scene  returns  pleas 
antly  to  me — the  quiet  road- side  shaded  by  the  tall  Flor 
ida  pines — the  rough-cast  and  shaggy  horse — and  the 
gentle  old  lady  sitting  among  her  baskets,  with  her  son 
by  her  side.  I  seem  to  see  now  her  face  lit  up  and  shin 
ing  with  sweetness  and  peacefulness  as  she  talked  of  her 
pets.  That  countenance,  radiant  with  the  beauty  of  a 
serene,  kindly  spirit,  that  gentle  voice  I  vividly  recall ; 
and  as  I  do  so,  I  do  not  wonder  that  the  very  birds  of 
the  air  learned  to  trust  and  love  her.  For  all  this  told  a 
story  that  even  they  could  not  fail  to  read. 

But  I  have  not  taken  my  friend  there  yet,  nor  do  I 
know  whether  the  hope  of  the  good  old  lady  has  ever 
been  realized,  and  her  friends  (the  birds)  returned  to 
brighten  and  cheer  her  declining  years,  and  meet  their 
kindly  welcome.  Long  before  I  shall  be  able,  in  this 
ever-changing  army  life,  to  revisit  "  the  ancient  city,"  the 
old  lady  will  doubtless  have  gone  to  her  rest.  May  the 
birds,  as  in  the  sweet  nursery  tradition  of  "the  Babes 
in  the  Wood,"  hover  over  her  grave  and  lovingly  scatter 
leaves  above  her  peaceful  breast. 

A.  K.  EGBEHT, 


XIX. 
STEAM- YACHTING   ON  THE   ST.   JOHNS. 

THERE  is  a  combination  of  pleasure  in  boat  life  that 
is  unrivalled,  and  it  is  a  matter  of  regret  that,  with 
our  magnificent  inland  waters,  some  among  them  attrac 
tive  at  every  season,  so  little  effort  has  been  made  to 
render  more  simple  and  economical  the  methods  for 
enjoying  them.  Our  steamboats  are  perfection,  and  he 
who  will  go  by  time  card,  and  with  half  the  population 
of  a  city  as  companions,  may  be  wafted  along  like  a 
prince,  and  find  at  hand  every  luxury  of  life  ;  but  if  he 
will  go  or  tarry  at  will,  hasten  or  linger  as  tempted  at 
the  moment,  there  is  less  chance  to  do  it,  with  any  pres 
ent  arrangements,  than  on  the  Nile  or  Amazon. 

Fleeing  a  year  ago  from  the  cold,  your  correspondent 
found  himself  steaming  rapidly  away  from  one  of  the 
long  wharves  of  the  lower  St.  Johns,  on  a  small,  impet 
uous  little  yacht,  one  of  the  busy,  bustling  kind,  imbued 
with  the  restless  spirit  that  small  things  usually  possess 
and  exhibit,  to  show  that,  after  all,  size  is  not  everything. 

It  was  a  day  for  idling,  and  the  rapid  puff  was  not  in 
harmony  ;  so,  leaning  over  the  small  bow  deck,  that  just 
held  a  bell  and  two  easy  chairs,  the  order  was  given  to 
old  Paul,  the  well-known  pilot,  to  slow  up,  and  Paul 
conveyed  the  same  to  the  engineer,  when  the  sharp  rip 
ple  at  the  bow  lost  its  rustle,  the  engine  breathed  more 


152  YACHTING   ON   THE   ST.   JOHNS. 

comfortably,  and  with  a  wide,  lazy  wake  spreading  far 
behind  on  the  golden  river,  we  laid  back  in  our  scats, 
and  determined  to  abandon  Northern  haste,  and  learn 
laziness  in  earnest — in  fact,  to  do  nothing  as  hard  as 
possible.  And  the  lesson  was  yery  easy.  The  slow- 
drifting  clouds,  the  currentless  river,  the  gentle  wind, 
and  all  about  was  peaceful  and  free  from  suggestion  of 
haste  ;  and  coming  fresh  from  driven  clouds  and  hurry 
ing  storms,  it  was  enough  to  take  in  sunshine  and  re 
pose,  leaving  for  another  time  action  and  progress. 

All  that  surrounds  one  at  the  South  is  suggestive  of, 
and  in  unison  with,  rest ;  and  nothing  is  more  grateful. 
At  the  North  it  is  not  so  ;  energy  and  haste  seem  the 
spirit  of  animate  and  inanimate  life.  The  wind  blusters 
and  frets  in  an  eager  way,  while  the  clouds  drive  on  as 
if  their  haven  was  not  yet  found.  The  surf  on  the 
rocky  shores  is  not  the  low,  long  tone  of  the  strand  ;  it 
essays  the  conquest  and  crumbling  of  the  rock-bound 
coasts,  while  the  streams  hasten  on  their  way  to  the  sea, 
cutting  corners  like  messengers,  and  turning  a  whirl  here 
and  there  with  an  expression  of  relief  at  getting  away 
from  a  temporary  delay  in  the  quiet  pond.  And  are  we 
not  too  much  the  same  ?  Do  not  Northern  men  wear 
away  in  efforts  to  save  time,  and  never  command  leisure  ? 
Are  not  brains  mazed  by  efforts  to  save  and  systematize 
that  only  increase  complexity  ?  Do  not  our  women 
assume  care  to  preserve  and  protect  their  beautifully  fur 
nished  homes,  until  their  chairs  and  fragile  china  out 
last  their  weary  lives  ?  Can  minds  always  engrossed 
really  see  what  is  laid  broadcast  of  beauty  and  interest  any 
more  than  rufilcd  waters  can  reflect  the  sky  or  beautiful 
shores  ;  and  does  not  our  laboriously  assumed  discipline 
of  habit  finally  become  a  power  that  cannot  be  shaken 


YACHTIXG   ON  THE   ST.    JOHNS.  153 

off,  even  if  weakened  vitality  warns  that  it  must  be 
done  ?  But  onr  bows  were  unbent,  and  our  surrender 
to  the  peaceful  influences  was  unconditional.  The 
broad,  quiet  river  bore  no  evidence  of  the  centuries  that 
have  passed  since  the  first  adventurers  explored  it  for  the 
fountain  of  youth — a  fountain  that,  undiscovered  for 
man,  assuredly  maintains  the  evergreen  vigor  of  this 
remarkable  stream.  Known  longer  than  any  river  on 
the  continent,  it  is  the  same  to  the  eye  as  when  the  first 
boat  passed  over  it.  At  hardly  any  point  are  there 
breaks  in  the  line  of  foliage  that  crowds  to  the  water's 
edge;  and  miles  and  miles  did  we  pass  on,  seeing  no  evi 
dence  that  the  swells  from  our  boat  were  not  the  first 
that  set  the  water-lilies  nodding  a  friendly  welcome. 

The  lower  river  is  too  wide  for  game,  being  often  ten 
miles  from  shore  to  shore — quite  sea-room  enough  for  a 
yachtman's  skill,  and  water  enough  for  a  good  sized  craft 
on  nearly  all  stretches.  From  this  wide  water  we  turned 
into  Black  creek,  where  we  were  promised  shots  at  alli 
gators.  This  is  a  very  beautiful  stream,  about  one  hun 
dred  yards  wide.  The  alligator  is  very  much  like  our 
northern  turtles  in  his  manner  of  life  ;  and,  like  them, 
enjoys  sunshine  on  his  scaly  form.  We  slowed  the 
engine  and  went  on  very  quietly,  keeping  near  the  sunny 
bank  of  the  river,  and  half  forgetting,  at  times,  our  pur 
pose,  in  admiration  of  the  same.  The  alligator  is  not 
easily  seen  by  a  novice  among  so  many  new  forms  to 
catch  the  eye.  Their  scaly  backs,  when  dry,  are  pre 
cisely  the  color  of  bark,  and  lying  on  or  by  fallen  trees, 
their  form  assimilates  so  closely  to  the  decaying  trunks, 
that  we  were  unable  to  distinguish  them  at  first,  even 
when  our  small  imp-of-all-work  would  grimace  like  a 
monkey  in  efforts  to  point  them  out.  We  did  not  admit 


154  YACHTING   OX  THE   ST.    JOH^S. 

with  candor  that  we  did  not  see  them,  but  bravely  fired 
away,  and  kept  up  an  expression  of  entire  wisdom,  even 
when,  in  response  to  hurried  shots,  chips  flew  from  logs 
that  were  not  very  near  the  splash  made  by  the  escaping 
saurian.  One  or  two  were  hit,  and  when  wounded  gave 
a  display  of  power  that  increased  our  respect  for  them. 
Smashing  about,  they  made  the  foam  and  water  fly  like 
a  propeller  wheel  on  a  tear,  but  almost  invariably  re 
tained  enough  vitality  to  get  to  the  bottom,  where  the 
body  remains  in  the  mud  and  grass  until,  expanded  by 
decomposition,  it  rises  to  be  food  for  swarms  of  turkey- 
buzzards.  We  continued  this  rifle  practice  for  some 
time,  until  the  long  shadows  covered  both  banks,  when 
the  alligators,  as  dependent  upon  sunshine  as  butterflies, 
went  into  their  slimy  homes.  Then  we  turned,  to  reach 
the  open  river  before  dark,  let  on  more  steam,  and  laid 
aside  our  rifles  to  enjoy  the  scene.  It  was  wonderfully 
fair.  Foliage  of  new  forms  pressed  out  over  the  water  ; 
vines,  laden  witli  bloom,  hung,  like  Narcissus  over  the 
flood,  lost  in  their  reflections ;  ducks  swam  hastily  on 
before  us,  drawing  a  wake  that  became  long  rays  of  light, 
and,  overtaken,  took  long  circles  back  to  the  quiet  scenes 
we  were  leaving  ;  while,  on  the  topmost  branches  of  tall 
trees,  turkey-buzzards  sat  in  rows,  waiting  like  ghouls 
for  death  and  decay  to  lure  them  down.  They  were  un 
mindful  of  rifle-balls  ;  safe  in  worthlessness  they  sur 
veyed  the  scene  their  repulsive  forms  marred,  and  when 
the  shadows  were  almost  as  dark  as  their  sable  wings, 
we  were  glad  to  enter  the  open  river.  Over  the  bar,  with 
full  steam,  we  pressed  on  as  long  as  we  could  see ;  and 
then,  tied  to  a  deserted  wood  wharf  for  the  night,  lighted 
up  our  little  cabin,  had  our  supper,  a  few  glasses  of  social 
wine,  and  turned  in  to  dream  of  semi-tropical  life. 


YACHTIXG   OH   THE   ST.   JOHNS.  155 

These  piers  are  often  carried  a  long  way  into  the 
broad  river  before  reaching  water  of  sufficient  depth  for 
a  steamboat,  so  shallow  are  many  of  the  bays,  and  they 
do  not  endure  long  in  a  climate  where  heat  and  moisture 
expedite  deca}r,  and  where,  under  water,  various  borers  are 
ever  at  work  running  their  galleries  through  and  through 
even  the  gummy  pitch-pine  logs. 

"With  some  ingenuity  very  comfortable  beds  were 
improvised  from  cushions,  rugs,  etc.,  and  despite  the  hot 
breath  and  loud  respirations  of  the  furnace  and  boiler, 
very  near  our  heads,  we  made  out  a  comfortable  night  on 
our  steam  tug.  At  daybreak  a  fog  hung  over  the  stream, 
and  we  were  forced  to  await  its  clearing.  It  did  not 
delay  long,  but  rolled  away  like  a  curtain,  and  opened  a 
morning  view  of  the  scenes  that  we  were  so  reluctant  to 
have  overshadowed  the  night  before.  Our  cook  was 
busy  in  a  caboose  a  little  smaller  than  a  watch-box,  from 
which  drifted  a  fragrant  odor  of  Java  as  we  came  on 
deck  and  freshened  up  in  pails  of  clear  water,  and  ate 
our  fruit  before  breakfast.  We  were  drifting  along,  with 
summer  all  around — air,  water,  and  sky  all  full  of 
warmth.  Our  will  our  law,  to  go,  to  stop,  hasten  or 
linger  as  we  fancied  at  the  moment,  and  in  unison  with 
the  soothing  influences  of  the  scene  we  gave  ourselves  up 
to  vigorous  idleness.  After  our  meal,  as  our  crew  was 
small,  your  correspondent  took  the  wheel  while  the  cap 
tain  enjoyed  his  breakfast.  The  pilot-house  was  low 
and  open.  Just  in  front,  in  easy  camp-chairs,  sat  the 
rest  of  our  little  party  smoking,  with  their  guns  on  a 
cable  box  in  front,  all  of  us  feeling  little  interest  in  get 
ting  anywhere,  the  one  fact  of  gliding  along  amid  slowly 
varied  scenes  being  sufficient.  It  was  indeed  luxurious. 
Our  black  imp  was  at  hand  to  respond  to  every  wish  and 


15 G  YACHTING    OX   THE   ST.    JOIIXS. 

attend  to  every  want  that  might  have  caused  greater 
exertion  than  winking,  and  we  were  convinced  that-  man's 
natural  bent  was  laziness,  from  the  very  rapid  and  com 
plete  surrender  of  three  hurrying,  worrying,  nervously 
active  Northerners  to  the  abandon  of  the  Sunny  South. 

There  was  but  little  game  in  sight  as  yet.  We  were 
on  the  highway,  where  from  the  forward  decks  of  every 
steamer  a  fusillade  of  small-arms  is  kept  up  on  every  liv 
ing  thing,  from  alligators  to  the  useful  buzzards  that 
clustered  upon  the  floating  carrion.  Every  man  and 
boy  feels  called  upon  to  do  some  ''sporting"  in  Florida, 
and  all  are  armed  with  as  varied  a  lot  of  guns  and  pistols 
as  would  adorn  an  arsenal.  The  rapid  movement  of  the 
river  boats  prevents  any  very  serious  results  to  the  ani 
mals  and  birds,  unless  when  now  and  then  the  ricochet 
of  a  ball  kills  a  cow  in  the  woods  ;  but  it  amuses  all  but 
the  timid  people,  and  is  a  customer  of  very  great  value 
to  the  Union  Metallic  Cartridge  Company. 

The  birds  seem  well  informed  as  to  the  range  of 
modern  arms.  The  stately  and  beautiful  snowy  herons 
spread  their  white  wings  only  when  rifles  are  raised,  and 
the  less  beautiful  alligator  seems  to  know  just  when  to 
launch  himself  to  save  his  scaly  sides  from  harm.  The 
animal  life  of  the  lower  St.  Johns  is  not  of  the  simple 
kind,  but  the  denizens  of  this  Broadway  know  a  tiling 
or  two,  and  are  not  to  be  taken  in  by  any  cheap  tricks. 
Consequently  our  guns  were  idle,  and  nothing  aroused 
us  from  the  (jiiiet  state  of  enjoyment  that  is  so  valuable 
to  the  strained  minds  that  have -been  keeping  puce  with 
the  restlessness  of  Northern  life. 

The  afternoon  found  us  at  Pilatka,  where  (he  larder 
was  reinforced,  ice  purchased,  and  a  boat  obtained.  At 
twilight  we  pushed  on,  turning  into  the  narrower  and 


YACHTING   OX  THE   ST.    JOHNS,  157 

more  picturesque  channels,  where  the  forest  crowded  out 
to  the  water's  edge,  and  sprays  of  flowering  vines  hung 
far  over  the  flood,  lost  in  vain  admiration  of  their  mir 
rored  beauty  and  grace. 

The  water  was  deep  even  to  the  shore,  and  we  cut 
the  bends  of  the  stream  close  under  the  foliage  that 
rustled  with  the  breeze  made  by  our  motion,  while  views 
of  remarkable  beauty  opened  every  moment  before  us, 
each  in  deeper  shade  and  more  mysterious  beauty  as  the 
rapid  darkness  came  on.  As  later  every  form  on  shore 
was  lost  in  the  dense  blackness  of  night,  it  became  a 
wonder  to  us  how  old  Paul  could  thread  the  devious 
arid  narrow  channel ;  but  on  we  sped,  only  halting  inshore 
once  to  let  one  of  the  great  river  boats  go  by.  The  huge 
thing  came  panting  like  a  leviathan  breathing  flame  ;  and 
writh  wride-open  furnaces  casting  broad  bars  of  light  over 
the  water,  and  rows  of  colored  signal  lamps  far  above 
the  bright  cabin  windows,  she  made  a  striking  scene 
against  the  night  as  she  sped  on,  bearing  a  gay  throng 
of  pleasure-seekers  to  the  upper  river. 

We  were  not  anxious,  howrever,  to  get  on.  There 
was  a  wealth  of  beauty  by  the  way,  that  few  on  the 
great  stream  would  see,  and  after  feeling  our  way  for  a 
time,  old  Paul  rang  to  "stop  her!"  "back  her,"  and 
our  little  boat  drifted  against  a  wood  wharf,  that  no  one 
but  our  pilot  could  have  found,  with  no  sign  to  mark  it 
under  the  forest  blackness  ;  and  here,  tied  up  to  a  decayed 
dock,  we  did  not  envy  the  passengers  going  "  on  time." 

Former  experience  told  how  there  would  be  a  rush 
for  seats,  and  a  scramble  for  food,  and  a  long  cue  of  tired 
men  and  women  waiting  to  learn  from  a  patient  purser 
that  there  were  no  more  state-rooms,  no  more  beds  on 
the  floor,  and  no  more  blankets  for  a  curl  up  under  the 


158  YACHTIXQ   OX   THE   ST.    JOHNS. 

dining  tables.  We  were  not  '  at  the  mercy  of  negro 
stewardesses,  nor  to  be  snubbed  by  magnificent  waiters  ; 
we  were  as  independent  as  chimney-sweeps  in  a  crowd. 
Your  correspondent  was  admiral  of  the  licet  (steamer 
and  two  skiffs),  sailing-master,  "  bo' sun  tight  and  mid- 
shipmite,"  and  chief  of  ordnance  (one  Scott  and  one 
Remington),  while  Madame  was  in  command  of  our  cabin 
passengers  (maid  and  one  child),  and  reigned  supreme 
over  a  culinary  department  consisting  of  two  spirit-lamps 
at  night  and  a  fire  on  shore  in  the  day  time. 

Just  at  the  time  we  tied  up,  hot  tea  was  singing  on 
one  lamp,  hot  soup  (thanks  to  Liebig),  on  the  other  ; 
and  with  rolls,  devilled  meat,  and  canned  luxuries,  there 
was  a  good  supper  laid  away,  and  the  events  of  the  day 
came  in  pleasant  retrospect  through  the  cheering  medium 
of  sparkling  wine. 

At  dawn  we  clambered  on  to  the  old  wharf.  A  wood 
road  ran  back  from  it  through  the  forest  to  a  settler's 
home.  Birds  were  singing  gayly,  among  them  our 
familiar  summer  friends  ;  but  many  strange  notes  came 
from  the  low  growth.  Following  what  seenued  to  be  the 
sound  of  an  axe,  a  woodpecker  was  found,  an  earlier  work 
man  than  the  lazy  "crackers."  It  was  one  of  the  large 
fellows  that  are  sometimes  seen  on  southern  trees  ;  as 
large  as  a  teal  duck,  a  gay,  handsome  bird,  with  a  bill 
like  iron  and  a  head  that  enables  them  to  exercise  the 
feat,  long  considered  impossible,  of  sawing  wood  with  a 
hammer.  Ducks,  herons,  water  turkeys,  ospreys,  and 
other  birds  followed  the  narrow  water  in  their  ilight,  shy 
ing  above  the  tree  tops  as  they  found  us  occupying  their 
solitude,  and  saying  hard  things  of  us  in  their  own  way, 
while  high  up  on  a  venerable  cypress  limb  sat  several 
ducks,  rather  an  unusual  sight,  and  there  they  sat  while 


YACHTING   ON   THE   ST.   JOHKS.  159 

we  made  a  fire  and  cooked  our  breakfast,  and  only  moved 
off  when  a  ball  went  very  near  them. 

Nothing  can  equal  this  mode  of  enjoying  the  south 
ern  rivers.  From  the  lofty  decks  of  the  steamers  a  great 
deal  is  seen,  but  every  moment  one  is  hurried  ruthlessly 
away  from  some  spot  where  there  is  every  temptation  to 
linger,  and  then  left  to  while  away  hours  at  some  land 
ing  where  preceding  crowds  have  gathered  every  flower, 
and  alarmed  every  bird  with  pistols  and  parasols. 

After  a  leisurely  breakfast  on  shore,  as  free  from  care 
as  gypsies,  we  went  on  board ;  put  easy  chairs  on  deck, 
laid  our  guns  before  us,  and  steamed  on  through 
scenes  of  great  beauty  and  variety,  now  and  then  getting 
a  duck,  which  was  picked  up  and  enjoyed  by  our  men, 
who  cooked  them  in  the  furnace  under  the  boiler. 

Above  Pilatka  the  river  becomes  less  lake-like. 
There  is  more  perceptible  current,  and  it  bends  and 
drifts  by  islands,  when,  the  channel  being  nearer  the 
shore,  more  of  the  forest  is  seen.  Unbroken  woods  and 
ranks  of  tall  stems  come  quite  to  the  water's  edge ; 
indeed  the  huge  cypress  trees  stand  in  the  margin,  and 
surrounded  by  the  upward  pointed  roots,  rising  from  one 
to  four  feet  high,  called  knees,  they  give  a  novel  appear 
ance  to  the  ground,  while  overhead  the  long  gray  drapery 
of  Spanish  moss  adds  an  impression  that  these  are  bearded 
woods  of  unknown  age,  hoary  and  ancient  as  Druid  oaks. 
Fresh  and  bright  are  the  grand  magnolias,  every  dark- 
green  leaf  polished  until  it  is  silver  in  the  sunlight ; 
and  as  a  new  form  to  the  Northern  eye  the  tall  palmettoes 
raise  their  tufted  crowns  of  huge  leaves.  On  dry  ground 
the  live-oak  assumes  superb  proportions,  its  low  spread 
ing  form  and  broad  shade  being  in  grateful  contrast  to 
the  rigid  formality  and  upright  lines  of  the  southern 


1GO  YACITTIXG    OX   THE    ST.    'JOTIXS. 

pines,  so  abundant  and  so  monotonous.  Beneath  these 
trees  is  a  varied  and  interesting  growth  of  forms  very 
strange  in  contrast  with  the  small  thin  undergrowth  of 
the  North.  The  huge  leaves  of  the  cabbage  palmetto, 
five  or  six  feet  in  diameter,  are  very  handsome,  with  their 
crimped  fan-like  radiating  form,  and  the  saw-palmetto 
shrub  is  very  similar.  A  wealth  of  small  growth  and 
vines  is  mingled  in  the  green  tangle,  while  parasitic 
plants,  mistletoe,  and  air-plant,  form  mid-air  clusters 
foreign  to  any  our  hardwood  hills  present. 

About  noon  we  reached  Lake  George  and  found  it 
very  rough,  but  leaving  the  channel  we  followed  an 
unusual  route  through  the  islands  and  ventured  out,  our 
yacht  rolling  a  good  deal,  but  we  soon  came  under  the 
west  shore  and  found  shelter.  About  midway  on  the 
shore  is  one  of  the  wonderful  springs  that  are  so  beauti 
ful.  Leaving  the  yacht,  we  poled  in  a  flat  skiff  over  a 
shallow  bar,  and  up  the  stream  that  ilows  from  the 
spring.  The  entrance  was  among  lilies  called  bonnets 
by  the  natives,  and  they  were  swarming  with  duck  and 
rail  ;  while  in  the  water,  that  was  as  clear  as  air,  were 
shoals  of  fish,  bass,  mullet,  long,  savage-looking  gar-iish 
and  huge  cat-fish.  They  would  not  bite,  but  were  easily 
punched  with  an  oar,  and  with  a  spear  numbers  could 
have  been  obtained.  Here  and  there  lay  alligators,  eye 
ing  us  wickedly,  and  they  were  far  more  bold  than  in 
the  main  river.  On  the  low  points — resembling  the 
spirituelle  as  completely  as  the  alligators  represent  the 
infernal — were  stately,  snowy  herons,  the  most  beautiful 
feature  of  all  this  sunny  land.  Following  the  dark 
thread  of  water  through  a  profusion  of  semi-aquatic 
growth,  we  entered  the  forest  until  it  overreached  the 
narrow  water,  and  was,  in  all  its  beauty,  repeated  in  the 


YACHTING   OX  THE   ST.   JOHNS.  1G1 

calm  flood  below.  The  long  gray  moss  hung  almost  to 
its  reflection,  and  in  the  long  vista  all  mingled  into  a 
confusion  of  waving  form  and  shadow  that  concealed 
the  water  line,  making  a  scene  as  indefinite  and  unreal 
as  a  dream.  All  kinds  of  birds  and  animals  fluttered  on 
before  us  or  stole  away  into  the  woods.  The  grotesque 
snake-birds,  or  water  turkeys,  wriggled  and  stared,  and 
tumbled  off  their  perches  with  a  helpless  splash  into  the 
water,  as  if  overcome  with  astonishment,  and  would  next 
be  seen  with  two  or  three  inches  of  snake-like  head  and 
neck,  going  rapidly  by.  Precisely  do  they  resemble  a 
small  swimming  snake,  and  one  can  hardly  believe  that 
there  is  so  large  a  bird  under  the  surface.  In  the  dim 
light  that  found  its  way  through  the  huge  leaves,  we 
came  upon  a  congress  of  owls,  assembled,  beyond  doubt, 
in  the  mysteries  of  some  ancient  order  of  Minerva,  and 
never  was  so  much  wisdom  so  solemnly  arrayed.  Silent, 
dignified,  and  conservative,  doing  nothing  lightly,  com 
mitting  themselves  to  no  miniatured  ideas,  even  and 
temperate,  what  body  could  equal  them  ?  I  had  seen 
less  manifest  self-respect  in  the  great  and  august  men 
who  eat  peanuts  in  the  beautiful  chambers  at  "Washing 
ton.  Silently  we  gazed  mutually  ;  on  my  part  a  con 
viction  of  trespass  became  uncomfortable,  and  I  was 
about  framing  an  apology  in  long  words  of  Greek  deri 
vation  when  the  gray  wings  opened  and  the  whole  party 
flitted  silently  away,  merging  into  the  smoke-colored 
moss  like  a  transformation  scene. 

Life  abounds  in  these  retreats.  Here  the  wood  duck 
winters  in  solitude,  curlew  sweep  along  in  flocks,  coot 
and  rail  run  among  the  sedge,  deer  come  shyly  down  to 
drink,  or,  frightened  by  the  puma,  plunge  in  and  seek 
refuge  in  swimming.  Under  the  bonnets  are  voracious 


162  YACHTING    OX   THE   ST.    JOHXS. 

wide-mouthed  bass,  culled  trout  by  the  natives,  who 
know  not  our  clear  northern  waters  nor  the  bright-lined 
fish  that  enliven  them  ;  and  when  the  sun  is  bright,  huge 
gar-fish,  or  alligator  gar,  long-nosed  fellows,  bask  near 
the  surface.  Near  springs  where  the  waters  are  clear 
the  study  of  aquatic  life  is  very  interesting.  In  one  such 
stream,  with  a  bright  sandy  bottom,  I  saw  more  varieties 
of  fish  than  I  can  describe  or  name.  Among  them,  in 
groups,  were  fish  like  pike,  from  one  to  two  and  three 
feet  long.  The  gar  were  abundant,  and  four  to  six  feet 
in  length,  going  oft'  like  arrows,  leaving  a  swirl  like  a 
propeller.  In  deeper  spots  clustered  bass,  a  spotted  fish 
I  could  not  learn  the  name  of,  and  fish  called  silver  fish, 
while  flitting  along  like  bats,  raising  little  clouds  of 
sand  at  each  stroke  of  their  liver-colored  wings,  were 
electric  rays,  or  stingarees.  Under  our  boat,  too,  undu 
lated  the  water  moccasin,  eyeing  us  angrily,  and  darting 
out  a  forked  tongue  most  viciously.  At  another  time, 
in  one  of  these  bayous  near  Enterprise,  while  paddling 
along,  I  shot  a  small  alligator,  some  four  feet  long. 
The  ball  tipped  and  cut  his  skull,  and,  as  my  excel 
lent  boatman  July  said,  killed  him.  Poking  him  up 
from  the  bottom  we  took  him  guardedly  aboard.  He 
was. seemingly  very  dead,  so  his  shiny  form  was  placed 
under  the  bow  deck,  over  which  I  stood,  shooting  at  gar 
fish,  hoping  to  get  one,  I  had  forgotten  the  fellow, 
when  I  was  astonished  by  a  smashing  under  my  feet, 
and  with  a  jump  over  July  made  my  escape  into  the 
stern,  where  a  lady  was  sitting,  just  in  time  to  save  my 
legs  from  a  rasp  of  his  well-aimed  tail.  Out  he  came, 
smashing  and  spoiling  for  a  muss,  his  long  mouth  open, 
and  an  unpleasant  look  of  mischief  in  his  bloody  head 
and  eyes.  There  were  just  then  some  amazing  ideas 


YACHTIXG   ON   THE   ST.    JOHNS.  163 

suggested.  Jumping  overboard  was  going  from  the 
alligator  frying-pan  into  a  fire  of  sting  rays,  electric  eels, 
and  moccasins.  Shooting  him  was  a  pleasant  and  re 
vengeful  idea,  but  it  meant  blowing  a  hole  in  the  bottom 
of  the  boat.  The  old  story  of  the  natural  histories 
reminded  me  that  it  was  the  proper  thing  to  jump  on 
his  back  and  hold  up  his  fore  legs ;  but  I  was  at  the 
wrong  end  of  him,  and  riding  one  without  a  saddle  is 
not  a  thing  to  do  even  with  the  spur  of  necessity.  It 
was  rather  close.  The  boat  was  not  as  long  as  we  wished 
it  was,  and  we  had  exhausted  our  retreat,  but,  master 
of  the  situation,  he  waddled  on  with  an  air  of  conquest 
and  extermination  until  July  met  him  bravely  and  pun 
ished  him  with  the  butt  of  an  oar  until  he  was  again 
stunned.  We  had  lost  confidence  in  killing  him,  and  to 
be  safe  tied  him  overboard  and  towed  him  to  a  landing, 
where  he  recovered  his  fine  disposition  under  a  system  of 
annoyance  from  all  the  visitors,  and  finally  gave  evidence 
of  it  by  biting  a  man.  When  I  heard  this  I  said  nothing 
of  his  being  my  pet,  and  due  justice  was  meted  him. 

Injury  from  alligators  is  very  uncommon,  but  they 
are  at  times  very  fierce.  A  gentleman  going  to  recover 
a  duck,  shot  on  the  upper  St.  Johns,  saw  an  alligator  seiz 
ing  it,  and  poured  a  charge  of  shot  into  his  head,  when 
the  injured  and  infuriated  beast  turned  and  bit  a  large 
piece,  gunwale  and  all,  from  the  skiff.  Their  power  is 
very  great,  and  when  wounded  they  give  evidence  of  it, 
thrashing  and  crushing  all  about  them.  I  shot  one 
through  the  head  on  Six  Mile  creek,  and  he  leaped  from 
the  ground  until  he  looked  as  high  as  a  horse.  Heavy 
and  awkward  as  they  seem,  they  are  not  to  be  approached 
unguardedly,  and  although  always  ready  to  escape,  if 
prevented  they  are  very  vicious. 


164  YACHTING    ON    THE   ST.    JOHNS. 

Half  a  mile  from  the  lake,  the  stream  ended  in  a 
curve  under  a  high  bank,  and  here  by  hard  rowing  we 
found  the  spring,  and  looked  down  into  a  white  walled 
chasm  through  water  that  seemed  too  ethereal  to  support 
our  skiff.  It  was  a  dizzy  overlook  down  into  this  deep 
pool,  where  long  weeds  writhed  and  swayed  forty  or  fifty 
feet  below  us  in  the  swell  of  the  current,  and  Avhere 
shoals  of  huge  fish  would  sweep  out  from  under  rocks 
and  be  swept  rapidly  about  like  shadows.  The  water 
rose  with  such  force  as  to  make  a  high  boiling  centre, 
where  skilful  rowing  could  poise  a  boat,  only  to  slide 
away  with  a  rapid  balloon-like  motion  that  wras  not  at 
all  pleasant.  Fine  palmettoes  had  surrounded  this  won 
derful  pool  with  a  fit  and  beautiful  shade,  but  they  were 
just  then  a  heap  of  smouldering  ashes,  having  been  cut 
away  for  cotton  ground  that  might  better  have  been 
taken  from  the  unlimited  forest  beyond  the  small  clear 
ing.  Vandal  hands  have  rarely  marred  a  more  weird 
scene,  nor  ignorance  more  surely  damaged  the  value  of  a 
rare  possession  ;  but  so  it  is  in  Florida  ;  all  hands,  from 
the  jewelled  one  that  wrote  its  owner's  name  in  a  font  at 
St.  Augustine,  to  the  "cracker's  "  horny  palm,  are  against 
the  ancient,  the  curious,  and  the  beautiful ;  and  ere  long 
the  cliffs  will  bear  quack  medicine  names,  and  the  old 
walls  will  fall  before  want  of  taste,  and  give  away  to 
pine  fences,  as  lias  the  old  and  mysterious  "  Treasury 
wall"  at  St.  Augustine.  (A  disgraceful  fact.) 

The  tropical  character  of  this  noble  river  is  chiefly 
seen  above  Lake  George.  North  of  this  lake  the  north 
west  winds,  the  cold  storm  winds  of  the  country,  pass 
only  overland  from  the  frozen  north,  and  in  mid-winter 
sometimes  bring  a  very  unpleasant  chill,  one  that  renders 
orange  culture  precarious,  blighting  in  some  years  the 


YACHTING    ON  THE   ST.    JOHNS.  165 

new  buds  ;  but  south  of  this  the  winds  having  any  west 
erly  direction  pass  over  more  or  less  of  the  Gulf,  and  are 
disarmed  by  the  warmth  and  .moisture  of  that  body  of 
water  of  their  blighting  chill  and  dryness,  and  about 
Enterprise  snow  and  frost  are  practically  unknown ; 
palms,  palmettoes,  bananas,  and  orange  trees  assume 
forms  of  vigor  that  render  them  very  beautiful  to  the 
Northern  eye,  and  the  refugee  from  winter  finds  an 
assured  promise  of  gentle  air  and  golden  sunshine. 

The  river  is  very  crooked,  bending  sharply  around 
points,  cutting  deeply  into  the  banks,  forming  deep 
boiling  pools,  where  fish  are  seen  breaking  constantly. 
The  shores  are  usually  low ;  a  point  ten  feet  high  is 
known  as  a  bluff,  and  such  are  sought  by  settlers  for 
homes,  possessing  all  the  freedom  from  miasma,  insects, 
and  dampness  that  can  be  expected  where  the  sun  of 
almost  perpetual  summer  breeds  during  many  months  a 
full  crop  of  annoyances.  The  driest  and  most  desirable 
places  are  found  upon  the  shell  mounds,  where  one  strata 
upon  another  of  shells  form  elevations  of  very  consider 
able  extent.  These  shell  formations  are  of  great  interest, 
and  puzzle  the  keenest  minds  with  their  layers  of  differ 
ent  shells,  each  distinctly  defined  in  character,  and 
differing  in  a  marked  form  from  the  next. 

The  water-worn  river  banks  show  long  and  perfect 
sections  of  this  character,  and  the  strata  are  plainly  seen 
in  even  and  distinctly  marked  lines,  not  always  level, 
but  extending  in  long,  unbroken  elevations  and  depres 
sions  ;  showing  that  some  disturbing  upheavals  have 
raised  and  lowered  the  deposited  shells  after  they  were 
imbedded  in  their  present  order. 

Some  of  the  strata,  lying  perhaps  six  inches  in  thick 
ness,  are  composed  of  bivalve  shells  almost  exclusively, 


166  YACHTING    CW   THE   ST.    JOHXS. 

mucli  crushed  and  broken,  but  cemented  quite  firmly  ; 
other  strata  are  without  shells  of  this  form,  being  com 
posed  of  conical,  convolute  shells  of  about  one  inch  on 
each  angular  side  ;  but  these  differ  again — in  some  the 
shells  are  fresh,  but  little  broken,  and  not  firmly 
cemented  ;  in  others  crushed  in  line  fragments,  and 
strongly  united  with  the  lime  made  by  their  partial 
decomposition.  All  these  varieties  may  be  seen  over 
lying  one  another  in  a  vertical  height  of  four  or  five  feet, 
and  the  different  bands  of  color  form  lines  that  are  visi 
ble  as  far  as  the  face  of  the  formation  is  exposed. 

Upon  these  shell  lands  there  are  found  numerous 
conical  mounds,  regular  in  form,  rising  from  ten  to 
thirty  feet,  evidently  of  human  origin,  supposed  to  have 
been,  like  the  pyramids  of  Egypt,  burial  places  for  the 
distinguished  dead  of  some  race  that  has  left  no  other 
record.  The  arrow-heads,  axes,  and  other  works  of  rude 
art,  found  in  these  mounds,  are  those  of  the  Stone 
Age,  which  on  this  continent  is  extended  to  the  present 
time  among  some  remote  Indian  tribes  ;  but  some  of 
these  implements  are  found  imbedded  in  a  conglomerate 
so  firm  and  stone-like  that  they  convey  to  the  mind  of 
the  ethnologist  an  impression  of  as  remote  antiquity  as 
surrounds  the  bone  caves  and  gravel  deposits  of  France. 

A  great  deal  of  learning  has  been  exhausted  upon 
these  remains  ;  but  full  examination  has  not  yet  been 
made,  and  many  links  in  the  chain  of  unwritten  history 
may  be  supplied  when  a  full  comparison  of  these 
mounds,  and  the  works  they  contain,  is  made  with  tlio 
corresponding  discoveries  of  the  Old  World. 

As  the  more  minute  peculiarities  of  our  pro-historic 
ancestors  are  learned,  there  is  no  safe  limit  to  assume  of 
the  unravellings  of  the  maze  that  surrounds  the  deeply 


YACHTING   ON   THE   ST.    JOHNS.  167 

interesting  questions  of  unity  or  diversity  of  races  ;  and 
it  is  not  unlikely  that  secrets  are  hidden  in  the  shell 
mounds  of  Florida  that  may,  when  discovered  and  inter 
preted  in  the  broad  light  of  future  knowledge,  tell  many 
a  curious  tale  of  wandering  tribes  and  far-fetched  arts 
and  customs. 

Half  lost  in  vain  theories  and  surmises,  aroused  by 
these  peculiar  remains,  gun  and  rod  were  not  unfre- 
quently  laid  aside,  and  our  minds  given  up  to  the  ro 
mantic  associations  of  the  first  voyagers  who  here  sought 
the  fountain  of  youth,  carrying  so  much  of  woe  and 
cruelty  with  them  that  it  is  fortunate  for  the  present 
that  they  did  not  find  any  elixir  of  the  kind  ;  and  to  the 
more  vague  but  pleasant  fancies  of  the  race  that  still 
earlier  possessed  this  alluring  land,  and  roamed  freely, 
with  no  more  idea  of  a  coming  and  overcoming  race  than 
occurs  to  us  now  in  our  period  of  supremacy. 

But  this  is  drifting,  and  we  would  not  be  left  with 
out  anchorage  in  the  realms  of  speculation.  We  really 
went  rapidly  against  the  stream,  and  after  a  long  day  of 
full  enjoyment  tied  our  craft  to  a  bank,  and  in  our 
small  but  snug  cabin  made  pleasant  plans  for  the 
morrow. 

Our  third  day  on  the  little  steamer  found  us  among 
the  prairies  that  lie  on  either  side  of  the  river,  below 
Lake  Monroe.  They  were  low  plains,  with  groups  of 
trees  like  islands,  and  long  rows  of  stately  palmettoes  de 
fining  the  curves  and  retracings  of  the  idle  river,  remind 
ing  us  of  the  pictures  of  Eastern  scenes  of  desert  and 
palms.  Herds  of  half- wild  cattle  were  seen  upon  them, 
and  sometimes  a  wild  turkey  would  seek  cover,  not  by 
flight,  but  by  running  like  the  wind.  A  little  back  from 
the  river,  on  wet  places  out  of  rifle-range,  were  groups 


1G8  YACHTIXCf   OX   THE   ST.    JOHNS. 

of  white  herons,  the  most  stately  and  beautiful  of  birds, 
and  great  flocks  of  large  curlew,  while  now  and  then  gan- 
ncts  would  spread  their  huge  black-and-white  wings,  and 
seek  quiet  further  apart  from  the  river.  No  bird  is  so 
showy  and  conspicuous  as  the  gannet,  and  it  was  long 
our  ambition  to  get  one  for  the  plumage,  but  they  were 
very  wary,  and  only  settled  down  in  wet  places,  remote 
from  any  cover  of  trees  or  brush.  Fortune,  however,  at 
last  did  better  for  me  than  patience  or  perseverance  (par 
don  any  imputation  in  favor  of  the  fickle  goddess),  for, 
while  rowing  in  a  skiff,  a  flock,  alarmed  by  a  steamer, 
came  laboring  over  the  river,  urging  their  way  with 
powerful  pinions  against  a  gale  of  wind.  They  saw  us, 
and  tried  to  steer  clear  by  turning  their  course  several 
points  into  the  wind,  but  they  made  too  much  leeway  to 
save  their  distance,  and  one  fellow  came  down  before  my 
gun,  and  sent  up  a  cloud  of  spray  from  the  river  in 
his  fall. 

"  Get  'um  quick  !  "  exclaimed  old  July,  my  faithful 
boatman,  "  or  an  alligator  may  carry  him  clown  ;  "  and 
get  'um  quick  we  did,  bringing  in  as  magnificent  a  mass 
of  green,  black,  and  white  plumage  as  nature  ever 
adorned  a  bird  with,  arousing  some  speculations  as  to 
what  a  great  economy  would  result,  and  what  a  vast 
amount  of  envious  and  toilsome  strife  and  ambition 
would  be  saved,  had  poor  bare  humanity  been  as  com 
fortably  and  superbly  clothed,  without  the  toil  of  the 
needle,  or  the  costly  fabrics  of  fashion.  These  reflec 
tions  did  not  impress  July,  who  at  once  explained  his 
"get  'um  quick"  counsel,  as  inspired  by  an  experience 
that  hud  impressed  him  very  deeply.  A  gentleman 
hunting  from  Enterprise,  shot  a  duck  which  fell  in  the 
water.  As  he  was  about  taking  it  in,  a  large  'gator 


YACIITIXG   OX  THE   ST.    JOIIXS.  169 

Appropriated  the  bird.  The  gentleman  in  turn  gave  the 
beast  a  peppering  of  shot  for  his  sauce,  enraging  him, 
without  any  serious  injury,  when  he  turned  on  the  boat 
and  took  out  a  piece  of  the  side,  gunwale  and  all,  so  damag 
ing  it  that  they  only  made  their  way  home  in  it  by  careen 
ing  the  broken  side  high  out  of  water.  These  ill-man 
nered  fellows  often  deprive  the  hunter  of  game  that  falls 
in  the  water,  and  the  foregoing  incident  teaches  the  im 
prudence  of  irritating  them  with  shot. 

The  fishing  about  the  outlet  of  Lake  Monroe  is  very 
good,  but  gar  and  catfish  play  the  mischief  with  trolling 
gear,  and  carry  away  spoons  most  annoyingly.  Bass  are 
the  best  fish  obtained.  In  one  of  the  eddying  pools  I 
ixjok  bass  so  rapidly,  that  in  less  than  half  an  hour  the 
bottom  of  the  skiff  was  alive  with  them,  which,  to  avoid 
waste,  were  given  to  the  steward  of  a  steamboat,  and 
abundantly  supplied  the  table  for  a  hungry  crowd  of 
tourists, 

In  the  spring  time  the  herons  assume,  to  adorn  their 
season  of  love-making,  a  plumage  of  remarkable  beauty. 
It  commences  at  the  base  of  the  neck,  and  extending 
backward  between  and  over  the  wings,  the  long,  airy 
plumes  of  dainty  feathery  sprays  hang  down  gracefully 
behind  the  bird,  and  give  a  very  stylish  addition,  a  la 
panier,  to  a  bird  that  never  saw  a  fashion-plate,  and 
has  no  trouble  with  any  laundress.  To  obtain  these  ex 
quisite-  decorations  for  the  race  so  sadly  neglected  by 
nature  in  regard  to  the  adornments  so  lavished  on  the 
inferior  creations,  these  "  angel  birds  "  are  assiduously 
hunted,  and  are  consequently  so  wild,  that  only  by  strat 
egy  can  they  be  shot  on  any  of  the  borders  of  the  river. 
From  our  deck  we  noticed  that  numbers  of  blue,  white, 
and  lesser  herons  alighted  very  constantly  upon  two  iso- 
8 


170  YACHTING   OX   THE   ST.    JOHNS. 

latcd  trees,  standing  at  the  end  of  a  shallow  water-way 
that  extended  from  the  river  into  the  prairie  ;  so,  with 
the  hope  of  gaining  some  shots,  we  ordered  a  halt. 
The  steamer  was  tied  to  a  tree,  and  we  launched  a  skiff 
and  paddled  through  the  water-lilies,  or  "bonnets"  (as 
the  huge  leaves  are  called),  starting  flocks  of  duck,  rail, 
and  birds,  and  disturbing  the  siestas  of  numerous  alliga 
tors  and  turtles.  The  only  shelter  was  under  some  small 
water-growing  bushes,  where  we  hid  ourselves  as  well  as 
we  could,  draping  our  hats  with  Spanish  moss,  and  dis 
posing  it  about,  for  concealment.  After  a  time  all  the 
turmoil  we  had  caused  ceased.  The  ducks  came,  one  by 
one,  and  dodged  about  under  the  reeds  and  lily  leaves, 
while  inquisitive  blackbirds  flitted  near  with  impertinent 
airs,  and  chaffed  our  ideas  of  concealment  with  un 
bounded  slang.  An  alligator,  that  had  been  out  sun 
ning  himself  where  our  boat  laid,  came  up  without  a 
ripple,  and  eyed  us  with  long  curiosity  as  interlopers,  and 
drifted  almost  against  the  boat.  But  we  were  after  her 
ons,  and  would  only  shoot  them,  after  the  manner  of  the 
AVestern  man,  who,  "when  he  went  a  cattin'  went  a  cat- 
tin',"  and  would  not  accept  a  bass  or  pike  in  lieu  of  the 
wide-mouthed  bull-head.  Animal  life  was  abundant  all 
about,  with  little  evidence  of  fear,  and,  watching  it,  it 
was  easy  to  realize  how  deeply  engrossed  such  naturalists 
as  Audubon  became  in  thus  studying  birds  and  animals 
when  free  in  their  own  haunts.  Nothing  seemed  aware 
of  us  but  the  herons.  They  came  from  remote  points, 
and  seemed  about  to  perch  on  the  old  trees,  where  so 
many  were  seen,  but  swept  by  and  went  on  to  other  re 
treats.  It  was  hardly  possible  for  them  to  discover  us, 
and  we  could  not  divine  any  cause  for  their  wary  move 
ments  unless  they  were  warned  by  the  angry  scolding  of 


YACHTING   ON  THE   ST.    JOHNS.  171 

the  blackbirds  that  hovered  about  with  incessant  sharp 
cries.  A  shot  or  two  reduced  these  pests  to  comparative 
silence,  when  a  blue  heron  sailed  up,  poised  for  a  mo 
ment  on  a  bare  limb,  and  then  fell  lifeless  into  the  pool 
below.  Hoping  for  other  shots,  we  did  not  gather  it  in, 
but  it  was  not  long  before  an  alligator  slowly  swam  to 
ward  the  dead  bird,  and  would  probably  have  carried  it 
away  but  for  the  arrival  of  a  Mead  explosive  ball  in  his 
head.  He  churned  the  water  for  a  moment  like  a  pro 
peller  wheel,  and  then  sought  the  bottom  to  die  among 
the  weeds  ;  and  again  all  was  quiet.  But  we  waited  in 
vain  ;  herons  sailed  about  over  the  marshes,  but  none 
came  near,  until,  weary  and  sunburned,  we  poled  back 
to  the  yacht,  glad  to  get  claret  and  ice. 

Our  plan  was  to  go  above  Lake  Monroe,  but  the 
water  was  too  low  on  the  bar,  and  our  boat  could  not  get 
over.  We  visited  Mellonville,  where  shad  were  being 
taken  in  enormous  quantities  ;  and  then  anchored  abreast 
the  site  of  the  old  Enterprise  Hotel,  and  landed,  to  visit 
once  more,  after  several  years'  absence,  the  Blue  Spring, 
than  which  none  can  be  more  beautiful.  It  has  been 
often  described,  but  it  is  not  easy  to  convey  an  idea  of 
the  deep  opaque  tint  of  the  water,  nor  of  the  picturesque 
effect  of  the  round  pool,  and  its  overhanging  shade  of 
live-oak,  palmettoes,  and  vines.  It  is  about  eighty  feet  in 
diameter,  and  very  deep.  There  is  no  motion  to  the 
blue  water,  but  a  large  stream  flows  away  from  it,  show 
ing  the  volume  of  the  spring.  The  water  leaves  traces 
of  white  sulphur  along  the  brook,  which  falls  some  twenty 
or  thirty  feet  to  the  lake,  affording  a  perfect  place  for 
running  water  and  shower  baths.  A  small  tent  over  the 
stream  was  the  only  bathing  convenience,  but  in  time 
this  will  undoubtedly  be  developed  into  one  of  the  most 


172  YACIITIXG    OX   THE   ST.    JOIIXS. 

beautiful  resorts  on  the  river,  and  prove  one  of  the  most 
healthful  and  agreeable. 

We  remained  over-night  at  the  Mellonville  wharf, 
visited  some  gardens  conducted  by  people  of  taste 
and  skill,  and  saw  many  evidences  of  the  capacity  of 
this  soil  and  climate  to  produce  almost  every  luxury. 
Potatoes  were  grown  in  February  for  the  table,  oranges 
and  bananas  flourished  free  from  danger  of  frost,  and 
beautiful  flowers  rewarded  very  little  care  with  profuse 
bloom.  The  geranium  was  a  small  tree  in  the  open  air, 
and  the  oleander  made  shade  for  a  party.  Strawberries 
were  ripe  while  ours  were  under  deep  snow,  and  it  was 
not  easy  to  put  faith  in  the  idea  that  the  cold  March 
winds  were  heaping  drifts  that  would  for  many  a  day 
resist  the  sun  that  fell  with  such  force  upon  us. 

Turning  northward,  we  gave  ourselves  to  the  current, 
and  went  rapidly  on.  At  times  we  would  tie  to  a  tree, 
and  leaving  the  yacht,  row  quietly  up  some  of  the  small 
and  unfrequented  streams  that  join  the  river.  Here  all 
was  as  wild  as  when  the  Indians  pursued  game  with  their 
stone  arrow-heads,  and  took  fish  with  bone  spears  ;  and 
nature  seemed  to  revel  in  her  own  power  and  beauty, 
and  cast  her  glories  of  golden  sunlight  and  varied  foliage 
on  every  hand.  The  huge  serried  leaves  of  the  palmet- 
toes  swayed  and  glistened  like  shields  hiding  a  woodland 
host.  Cypress  trees  held  their  light  foliage  high  against 
the  sky,  and  graceful  vines  hung  in  long  curves  from 
them  to  the  dense  undergrowth  of  novel  form.  Creep 
ing  plants  held  their  bloom  over  the  water  on  dead 
trunks,  and  air-plants  and  ferns  found  resting  places  on 
the  old  oaks,  in  whose  upper  branches  balls  of  mistletoe 
shone  with  their  polished  leaves.  All  this  would  be 
doubled  in  reflection,  while  the  dividing  line  between  the 


YACHTIKG  (XN"   THE   ST.    JOH^S,  173 

beautiful  reality  and  the  no  less  beautiful  image  below, 
was  so  hidden  by  trailing  yines  and  aquatic  plants  that 
the  vistas  of  the  narrow  streams  became  dreamy  and  in 
distinct  as  they  extended  far  away  into  an  uncertainty  of 
waving  moss  and  deceptive  shadows. 

Again  we  would  go  on  miles  in  advance  of  the  yacht, 
drifting  noiselessly  with  the  stream,  often  stealing  upon 
game,  and  frequently  getting  a  few  fish.  When  tired, 
we  could  wait  until  overtaken,  tie  our  skiff  behind  the 
steamer,  and  enter  the  snug  cabin  to  find  shelter,  rest, 
and  all  the  comforts  needful.  No  life  could  be  more 
enjoyable.  We  were  not  confined  to  a  limited  district,  as 
when  in  camp,  and  yet  there  was  the  same  freedom,  and 
the  same  opportunities  for  seeing  and  sharing  wild-wood 
pursuits.  There  was  variety  in  every  day,  fresh  scenes 
each  hour,  and  new  temptations  and  anticipations  lead 
ing  on  and  on  from  one  point  to  another,  all  with  little 
or  no  fatigue. 

This  steam  yachting  must  develop  as  one  of  the  most 
popular  of  all  indulgences.  With  our  great  lakes,  con 
nected  by  safe  and  navigable  routes,  and  rivers  of  endless 
extent  and  unlimited  variety,  through  which  one  may 
wander  from  the  tropics  to  the  far  north,  and  find  all 
climates  and  the  fruits  and  game  of  each,  there  are  un 
paralleled  opportunities  for  this  luxurious  life.  What 
ever  taste  or  fancy  may  impel  one  to  wandering,  in  a 
yacht  all  the  comforts  and  conveniences  can  be  carried. 
The  botanist  can,  at  leisure  and  undisturbed,  unfold  his 
cases  of  plants  ;  the  artist  can  sketch  and  not  have  to 
gather  up  the  disorder  of  easel  and  studio  ;  the  geologist 
may  ballast  his  craft  with  stone,  and  the  ichnologist 
gather  relics  and  form  a  museum  en  route.  For  the 
naturalist  and  sportsman  it  is  perfection.  His  rods 


174  YACHTING   ON  THE   ST.    JOHNS. 

need  not  be  unjointed,  or  his  guns  uncased.  He  can 
stuff  his  specimens,  load  shells,  and  tie  dainty  flies  by 
a  window  before  which  new  and  varied  scenes  are  pass 
ing  ;  and  after  a  hard  day's  tramping  come  back  to 
abundant  comforts.  As  yet  there  are  but  few  of  these 
dainty  craft  afloat,  and  few  are  aware  of  the  charming 
life  they  offer.  The  fleet  and  dainty  private  yacht  Fal 
con,  on  the  St.  Johns,  was  a  pleasant  exponent  of  a 
sportsman's  craft,  and  in  time  many  more  will  follow  in 
her  wake. 

Of  course  there  is  a  good  deal  of  expense  inseparable 
from  steam  yatching,  but  very  complete  launches  and 
small  yachts  are  now  put  afloat  in  perfect  trim  for  hardly 
any  greater  cost  for  purchase  or  maintenance  than  is 
represented  by  each  of  hundreds  of  fine  carriages  that  are 
to  be  met  with  on  the  fashionable  avenues  of  our  great 
cities,  and  the  writer  is  confident  from  personal  experi 
ence  that,  abandoning  all  ambition  for  the  luxuries  of 
cuisine,  and  seeking  only  plain  and  needful  arrange 
ments,  a  small  family  or  a  few  gentlemen  may  make  sum 
mer  or  winter  trips  with  no  more  cost  than  is  incurred 
by  hundreds  of  pleasure  parties  who  find  far  less  of  com 
fort  and  independence  than  they  would  commanding 
their  owrn  yacht  and  their  own  movements.  A  man 
of  as  much  skill  as  is  required  to  make  a  successful 
sportsman,  can  do  a  great  deal  in  attending  to  his 
own  boat,  so  that  the  cost  and  annoyance  of  having 
too  many  men  may  be  avoided  ;  but  unless  our  inspection 
laws  are  made  more  liberal,  he  must  provide  himself  and 
his  men  with  expensive  licenses,  and  be  sometimes  com 
pelled  to  take  his  men  from  a  guild  or  union  commanding 
needlessly  high  wages.  All  this,  however,  is  in  course 


YACHTING  Otf  THE  ST.    JOHNS.  175 

of  revisal,  and  beyond  doubt,  boats  that  do  not  carry 
for  hire  will  be  set  free  from  all  needless  restrictions.  * 

The  trip  described  in  these  notes  \vas  made  in  a  small 
yacht  chartered  by  the  day.  She  was  about  48  feet  long, 
and  carried  captain,  pilot,  engineer,  and  fireman,  yet  the 
cost  for  a  party  of  four  was  only  about  the  same  as  the 
daily  hotel  board  and  passage  tickets  over  the  route ; 
while  the  ability  to  visit  many  points  without  remaining 
until  another  boat  should  permit  moving  on,  was  a  very 
great  economy  of  time  and  money.  Of  course  much  was 
seen  and  enjoyed  that  the  tourist  is  usually  hurried  past, 
or  only  seen  in  company  with  a  crowd  that  does  away 
with  all  the  romance  and  characteristic  quiet  of  the 
wilderness.  The  captain  was  a  useless  party,  and  did  no 
service.  The  pilot  was  needful.  The  fireman  was  a 
luxury,  a  mere  attendant  upon  a  lazy  engineer  ;  one  man 


*  The  attention  of  owners  of  steam  yachts  is  called  to  the  importance  of 
embodying  in  the  new  steamboat  inspection  laws  some  exemptions  in  favor  of 
steam  yachts  and  launches.  As  the  law  now  stands,  they  are  liable  to  severe 
penalties  for  not  complying  with  requirements  that  neither  their  size  nor 
character  render  proper,  and  in  the  Southern  States  a  number  of  small  explor 
ing  and  pleasure  boats  have  been  abandoned  because  of  the  oppressions  of  a 
law  designed  for  large  vessels,  carrying  for  hire.  An  immediate  effort  will 
undoubtedly  secure  such  amendments  as  will  encourage  the  use  of  steam 
launches,  and  enable  explorers  and  sportsmen  to  use  them  with  a  reasonable 
economy,  and  free  them  from  needless  legal  red  tape  and  embarrassment.  For 
instance,  the  requirement  that  a  boat,  however  small,  must  carry  an  engineer, 
captain,  and  pilot — no  one  man  to  hold  two  licenses,  and  these  licenses  cost 
ing  $10  each,  and  a  good  deal  of  trouble — is  one  that  is  unreasonable  when 
applied  to  a  small  boat,  where  one  man  is  competent  to  do  all  about  the  engine, 
and  the  owner  can  steer,  taking  his  own  risk  now  and  then  of  getting  on  a 
sand  bar.  There  is  no  real  reason  why  a  boat  carrying  no  persons  for  hire 
should  be  under  any  more  restrictions  than  a  sail  boat,  in  which  people  are 
permitted  to  drown  themselves  with  the  main  sheet  tied,  and  no  licensed 
sailor  on  board.  Sportsmen  cannot  carry  BO  many  men  on  small  yachts  and 
launches.  There  is  neither  need  nor  room  for  them,  and  it  may  be  presumed 
that  any  person  owning  a  craft  of  the  kind  will,  for  his  own  comfort  and 
safety,  exercise  the  same  high  degree  of  care  and  skill  that  distinguish 
sportsmen,  yachtmen,  and  horsemen,  in  their  guns,  boats,  and  equipage. 


17G  YACHTING   OX   THE   ST.    JOJIXS. 

could  easily  feed  the  fire,,  and  ran  the  engine  with  less 
trouble  than  he  could  get  out  of  the  fireman's  way,  so 
that  two  men,  one  a  competent  and  careful  engineer, 
and  the  other  a  pilot  well  acquainted  with  the  channels, 
could  run  a  launch  or  small  yacht  with  ease,  and  keep 
her  under  way  as  many  hours  per  diem  as  would  be 
desirable. 

Not  only  are  the  rivers  and  lakes  of  Florida  attractive 
cruising  grounds,  but  the  inlets  and  estuaries  of  the 
southern  coasts  offer  great  inducements  for  the  invalid, 
the  naturalist,  the  antiquarian,  and  the  sportsman.  In 
the  spring,  when  the  sim  begins  to  fall  with  a  fierce  heat 
on  the  rivers,  and  despite  all  said  to  the  contrary,  docs 
render  too  much  exposure  imprudent,  the  sea  coast  is 
perfect.  The  finer  kinds  of  fish  are  in  season,  and  many 
beach  and  bay  birds  are  to  be  obtained.  In  April  the 
sea-bathing  is  safe  and  pleasant,  and  invalids  and  well 
•people  will  do  a  prudent  thing  who  halt  alongshore  and 
delay  their  return  until  such  birds  as  the  bobolinks  and 
orioles  arc  with  them,  and  not  risk  the  loss  of  all  the 
benefit  of  a  long  and  costly  trip  by  coming  on  with  the 
robins  and  blue-birds,  who  are  beguiled  by  a  few  warm 
days  into  shivering  through  many  a  long,  bleak  storm. 

Your  correspondent  was,  later  in  the  spring,  one  of  a 
party  to  cruise  about  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Johns  and  the 
Sisters'  Islands,  and  during  the  trip  we  landed  on  Fort 
George  Island,  where  we  were  kindly  driven  about  by 
the  owner,  who  is  engaged,  with  a  number  of  gentlemen 
of  taste,  in  forming  a  little  paradise.  The  island  is  not 
large,  about  eleven  hundred  acres.  The  St.  Johns  out 
let  is  on  the  south,  Fort  George  Inlet  on  the  north,  and 
the  Sisters'  Inlet  on  the  west.  Seaward  a  densely 
wooded  bluff,  eighty  feet  high,  shelters  from  the  ocean 


YACHTING   ON  THE  ST.   JOHNS.  177 

gales,  and  beyond  is  a  superb  beach  for  driving,  bathing, 
cricket,  or  croquet.  From  the  bluff  the  view  is  of  course 
very  fine,  and  all  the  commerce  of  the  St.  Johns  river 
passes  near  at  hand.  The  cleared  part  of  the  island  has 
a  palmetto  avenue  that  has  no  equal,  and  the  forests  are 
more  varied  than  any  that  are  accessible  by  drives. 
Shell  mounds  supply  material  for  fine  roads,  and  many 
drives  are  being  laid  out  that  are  wonderfully  beautiful. 
There  is  but  little  of  the  dreary  formal  pine  ;  but  huge 
bearded  oaks  that  are  worthy  of  druidical  homage,  and 
stately  palmettoes,  cast  deep  wide  shadows,  while  orange 
trees  and  flowering  vines  and  shrubs  fill  in  the  scene  with 
luxuriant  bloom  and  foliage.  At  St.  Augustine  the 
beaches  are  inaccessible  to  carriages,  and  distant  by 
boats,  but  here  they  are  where  one  can  turn  to  them 
from  the  shaded  avenues.  The  fishing  is  fine,  to  my 
knowledge,  as  my  fisherman  took  a  thirty-five  pound 
bass  from  my  skiff. 

For  lingering  places  for  late  March,  April,  and  May, 
these  islands  supply  just  what  all  feel  the  need  of.  No 
arrangements  are  yet  made  for  general  accommodation, 
but  plans  are  maturing  that,  when  executed,  will  supply 
a  new  and  valuable  resort  to  already  attractive  Florida, 
and  more  tempting  to  yachtmen  than  any  now  existing. 

Eeturning  from  this  rambling  disquisition  upon  drift 
ing  in  one's  own  craft,  we  come  back  to  our  own  for  the 
time,  and  tie  her  to  the  wharf  at  Orange  Bluff,  above  Lake 
George.  Night  has  fallen,  and  we  light  a  pitch-pine  fire, 
rind  cook  thereon  while  enjoying  the  picturesque  effect 
of  the  rich,  mellow  light  that  illumines  our  boat  against 
the  dark  river,  and  brings  out  here  and  there  a  tree  in 
bright  relief.  Some  hunters  join  us,  light  their  pipes, 
and  take  their  nightcap  from  our  flask.  The  stories  of 
8* 


178  YACHTING   OK  THE  ST.   JOHNS. 

a  real  backwoodsman  arc  always  amusing,  and  awaken 
the  common  interest  of  all  the  craft.  So  it  is  late  before 
we  mature  plans  with  our  new  friends  for  a  hunt  to 
gether,  and  they  call  their  dogs  and  go  to  their  cabin, 
and  we  turn  in  in  the  yacht. 

L.  W.  LEDYAED. 


XX. 


AMONG  THE  SEMINOLES. 

BY  the  treaty  of  1842,  the  few  Seminoles  remaining 
in  Florida  after  the  war,  were  confined  to  the  south 
ern  portion  of  the  peninsula.  There  they  still  remain, 
between  two  and  three  hundred  in  number,  leading  a 
peaceful  life,  cultivating  their  fields,  and  hunting.  They 
are  governed  by  two  chiefs  ;  those  around  the  southern 
shore  of  Lake  Okeechobee  by  Tustenuggee,  and  those 
east  of  that  great  lake  by  Tiger  Tailee.  Their  inter 
course  with  white  men  is  limited  to  occasional  trad 
ing  visits  to  Indian  river  and  the  Keys.  Though  they 
have  existed  as  a  nation  for  one  hundred  years,  very  lit 
tle  is  known  regarding  their  language,  customs,  and 
social  life. 

It  was  with  the  avowed  object  of  studying  the  Indian 
in  his  native  wilds  that  I  left  Indian  river  one  beautiful 
spring  morning  in  '72.  I  had  provided  myself  with  an 
ox-cart,  oxen  of  course,  and  a  guide — though  just  what 
he  was  a  guide  of,  and  to  where,  I've  not  satisfactorily 
determined  to  this  day — and  the  usual  amount  of  hunters' 
traps.  There  was  also  a  colored  individual,  who  had 
charge  of  the  frying-pan  and  coffee  pot.  "Well,  we  pro 
gressed  favorably  enough,  till  the  second  night  out  found 
us  fifteen  miles  from  my  camp  on  Indian  river,  thirty 
miles  from  Okeechobee,  and  further  travel  apparently 


180  AJIOXG   THE   SEMIXOLES. 

stopped  by  a  long  line  of  cypress  swamp.  So  we  camped 
on  the  Alpattiokee.  Alpattiokee  is  Seminole  for  Alli 
gator  creek.  Game  was  abundant ;  deer  in  herds  on 
the  savannas  ;  turkeys  in  flocks  in  the  hammocks  ;  the 
half-dry  creek  bed  swarmed  with  ibis  and  heron  of 
every  hue,  and  alligators  were  in  abundance.  They 
crawled  upon  the  banks  of  the  creek,,  reposed  upon  its 
sand  bars,  and  swam  its  waters.  They  made  night  hid 
eous  with  their  bellowings,  and  kept  our  mastiff  in  per 
petual  dread  of  being  devoured  by  assailing  him  while 
he  reposed  by  our  camp-lire.  Every  inducement  for  the 
stay  of  hunter  or  naturalist  was  offered,  and  every  tramp 
and  hunt  would  bring  new  additions  of  rare  plants  and 
birds  to  my  collection. 

While  hunting  along  the  various  creeks  I  discovered 
signs  of  Indians — in  the  sand  of  the  dry  creek-bed  the 
impressions  of  moccasined  feet ;  on  its  banks  a  "cabbage 
.palm"  with  its  terminal  bud  torn  out  and  the  leaves 
scattered.  An  old  Indian  camp,  strewn  with  bones  of 
deer,  turkey,  and  tortoise,  showed  that  the  place  was  a 
favorite  hunting  ground.  There  were  fresh  tracks  of 
three  Indian  hunters,  besides  fainter  ones  of  a  woman 
and  child.  One  day  Jim  came  in  with  the  pickaninny's 
playthings — an  alligator  tooth,  two  or  three  grotesquely- 
shaped  pieces  of  brier  root,  and  a  walnut.  While  we 
were  examining  them  we  heard  a  faint  tinkling  in  the 
distance,  and  a  preliminary  reconnoisance  revealed  three 
Indians  approaching  the  ford  in  the  creek  near  our  cam]). 
Affecting  to  be  employed  with  our  duties,  we  only  looked 
up  as  they  appeared,  and  they,  taking  no  notice  of  us, 
inarched  on  with  heads  erect  till  brought  to  a  halt  by 
Jim,  who  ran  forward  with  extended  hand  and  a  hearty 
"Howdy."  Then  their  swarthy  faces  displayed  grins 


AMONG  THE   SEMINOLES.  181 

which  grew  broad  and  loud  as  we  summoned  unhappy 
Tom  to  prepare  a  repast  for  the  weary  aborigines.  Re 
moving  from  their  pony  a  huge  pack,  upon  which  was  a 
tin  kettle,  which  had  made  the  tintinnabulation  \ve  had 
heard,  they  hobbled  his  feet  and  sat  down.  While  they 
were  demolishing  the  huge  pile  of  flapjacks  which  Jim 
set  before  them,  I  had  an  opportunity  for  studying  their 
dress  and  features. 

"Tiger,"  the  oldest,  was  about  seventy  years  old, 
and  had  fought  in  the  Seminole  war.  He  was  rather 
above  the  medium  height,  broad  shouldered,  massive 
arms,  and  legs  like  mahogany  pillars,  worn  smooth  and 
polished  by  many  a  brush  with  thicket  and  brier.  His 
nose  and  lips  indicated  a  trace  of  negro  blood.  His  iron- 
gray  hair  straggled  over  a  greasy  bandana  bound  about 
his  temples.  His  broad  shoulders  were  artistically 
draped  in  two  ragged  shirts  of  "hickory,"  or  striped 
homespun,  the  inner  one  about  a  foot  longer  than  the 
outer,  and  reaching  nearly  to  his  knees.  A  breech  cloth 
and  moccasins  completed  his  attire.  Charley  Osceola 
was  a  young  man  of  twenty,  claiming  to  be  a  descendant 
of  the  famous  chief  Osceola.  Over  six  feet  high,  with 
broad  shoulders  and  finely-shaped  limbs,  erect  and 
straight,  he  was  my  beau  ideal  of  an  Indian  brave.  His 
eyes  were  small,  black,  and  keen,  his  voice  was  musical, 
and  he  spoke  in  a  firm,  gentle  manner  that  won  my  heart 
at  once.  His  hair  was  thick,  coarse,  and  black,  with  the 
changeable  purple  of  the  raven's  wing.  It  was  shaved 
close  at  the  sides,  leaving  a  ridge  on  the  crown,  spread 
ing  toward  the  neck,  and  hanging  in  braids  over  the 
shoulders.  His  dress  was  similar  to  Tiger's.  The 
pickaninny  was  hardly  worth  a  description.  Each  car- 


182  AMO^G   THE   SEMIXOLES. 

ried  a  rifle,  a  reserve  supply  of  bows  and  arrows,  and 
a  pouch  for  ammunition,  etc. 

They  obstinately  refused  to  talk  "  Yankaistahadka," 
or  Yankee  talk,  but  used  their  own  language.  It  was  a 
long  time  before  I  could  be  made  to  understand  that 
"  shatokanowa  humkin"  meant  one  dollar,  the  price  of 
n  set  of  bows  and  arrows,  but  after  much  labor  I  mas 
tered  their  system  of  numeration  up  to  a  thousand, 
though  I  will  now  admit  that  I  was  much  exercised  at 
"  chopkakolehokolin,"  and  gave  it  up. 

While  Osceola  was  making  me  some  talipikahs,  or 
moccasins,  Jim  was  endeavoring  to  extract  from  Tiger 
the  proper  route  to  Lake  Okeechobee,  and  whether  we 
could  reach  it  with  our  ox-cart.  Jim  had  mingled  with 
the  Indians  in  his  youth,  and  prided  himself  upon  his 
accomplishments  in  the  manner  of  dealing  with  them, 
and  speaking  their  language.  Tiger  sat  upon  his 
haunches  beneath  the  spreading  branches  of  a  live-oak, 
looking  like  some  ragged  Turk. 

Jim  (in  a  loud  voice) — "  Okeechobee  ;  you  savez  ?  " 

Tiger— "  Eucah  "  (yes). 

Jim — "  Okeechobee  ;  me  go  ;  walkah  (oxen)  go  ; 
Yankaistahadka  go  ;  hey  ?" 

Tiger — "Eucah  ;  walkah,  me  eatum  ;  good  !  " 

Jim — "  No,  you  old  fool  (emphasized)  ;  you  know 
more'n  you  portend  ;  walkah  no  slumpy,  slumpy,  no 
sticky,  icky  in  the  mud  ;  that's  what  I  mean." 

Tiger—  "Haigh  !" 

Jim — "  Oh,  you  old  blackleg  ;  you  consarned  old 
manatee  !  Can't  you  talk  Istachatta  (Indian),  or  do  yer 
mean  to  go  back  on  yer  native  tongue  ?  Come,  now, 
talk  Yankee  talk  ;  none  of  your  dog-goned  nonsense  and 
hog  Latin.  Okeechobee,  me  go;  walkah  go;  cartah  go; 


THE   SEMItfOLES.  183 

Istalusta  (mulatto)  go  ;  110  get  stuckah,  no  have  to  come 
backah  ;  hey  ?  " 

[This  in  fearful  tones,  for  Jim  held,  with  many 
others,  that  you  could  make  any  foreigner  understand, 
provided  you  spoke  loud  enough]. 

Tiger — "  Istalusta ;  shookah,  me  give  um  ;  pahlen  ! " 
and  he  looked  wistfully  at  Tom. 

Jim — "  Ten  hogs  for  that  nigger  !  There,  I'll  give 
up  ;  the — something — heathenish  old  chattymico  don't 
know  Injun  no  more'n  a  cracker  !  " 

A  peculiar  twinkle  of  Tiger's  eyes  convinced  me  that 
he  "  knew  more'n  he  portended,"  but  what  his  reasons 
were  for  baffling  Jim's  curiosity  I  didn't  know  till  later. 

That  night  we  left  our  camp  on  the  Alpattiokee,  and 
made  our  fire  at  the  foot  of  the  "  forked  cabbage,"  on  a 
branch  of  the  Alpattie.  The  Indians  accompanied  us, 
though  unasked.  It  seems  that  Tiger  had  divined  Jim's 
meaning,  and  had  determined  to  prevent  us  from  reach 
ing  our  destination.  He  had  concocted  a  fearful  scheme 
to  prevent  our  departure — it  was  to  eat  us  out.  I  didn't 
know  it  at  the  time,  or  I  shouldn't  have  aided  them  as 
I  did. 

The  shades  of  night  and  the  time  for  our  evening  re 
past  drew  near.  In  honor  of  our  guests,  Tom  had 
cooked  just  four  times  the  usual  quantity  of  flapjacks, 
besides  our  last  steak  of  venison.  I  had  devoured  but 
one  flapjack,  and  was  about  securing  another,  when,  lo  ! 
they  were  not.  Tiger  sat  dignified  and  sad  ;  Charley 
dignified  and  serious;  "  Fistilokeen  "  dignified  and  dirty. 
The  corners  of  their  mouths  ran  hog  juice,  their  faces 
and  hands  were  unctuous  with  it,  yet  there  they  sat, 
patiently  waiting,  sad  and  serious ;  grieved  even,  judg 
ing  from  their  countenances. 


AMONG    THE    SEMIXOLES. 

Tom  refused  to  cook  any  more. 

"  Is-ta-lus-ta  lazy;  ho-la-wan-gus  !"  said  Tiger. 

Thus  taunted,  Tom  broke  open  our  last  package  of 
flour,  and  busied  himself,  cursing  the  Indians  the  while, 
till  they  all  united  in  a  satisfied  "  me  full!"  These 
untutored  "sons  of  the  forest"  soon  left  us,  with  their 
customary  "  me  hiepus  j  "  (me  go),  and  AVC  were  -not 
very  sorry  that,  to  use  their  own  expression,  they  were 
"  sui-cus-j  "  (gone).  From  Tom's  quarters,  that  night,  I 
heard  a  muttered  blessing  upon  the  "  Is-ta-chat-tas." 
In  the  morning  they  brought  us  a  peace-offering  of 
venison,  and  that  night  we  had  an  alligator  hunt  by 
moonlight. 

I  shall  never  forget  the  weird  aspect  of  the  scene 
spread  out  before  us,  as  we  assembled  silently  upon  the 
banks  of  the  creek.  The  creek  bed  could  be  traced 
through  the  vast  plain  by  the  occasional  clumps  of 
palms,  till  lost  in  the  swam})  far  beyond.  The  bright 
plumaged  herons,  that  told  of  its  meanderings  as  they 
hovered  over  it  by  day,  were  now  gone,  and  silence,  as 
of  the  grave,  reigned  over  us.  The  creek-bed  was  dry 
and  exposed,  except  at  intervals  there  were  great  holes 
full  of  alligators — rightly  called  "  alligator  holes. "  Here, 
crowded  together,  they  were  patiently  awaiting  the  set 
ting  in  of  the  rainy  season,  which  would  set  them  free 
from  their  narrow  prisons. 

The  "  'gators "  seemed  to  have  had  notice  of  our 
coming,  as,  when  we  gathered  upon  the  steep  bank,  not 
a  head  was  visible.  "Ump,  ump,  ump  !"  said  Fistilo- 
kecn,  imitating  the  grunting  of  a  young  alligator.  Soon 
a  dozen  knotty  heads  showed  themselves,  peering  anxi 
ously  above  the  water.  At  the  slightest  motion  they 
would  disappear. 


THE  SEMINOLES.  185 

"Ump,  limp,  ump,  ump,  limp  !" 

The  evil-looking  eyes  again  appeared,  and  the  round 
noses  gave  utterance  to  similar  though  louder  sounds. 
Up  they  came,  silently,  cautiously,  till  I  counted  twenty- 
seven  above  the  water  of  the  little  pond.  Giving  me 
the  line,  Jim  launched  the  harpoon  at  the  side  of  the 
largest.  True — as  his  aim  always  was — the  sharp  head 
pierced  the  reptile's  side  in  its  most  vulnerable  part,  just 
behind  the  fore-leg.  A  rush,  a  roar,  as  though  all  the 
bulls  of  the  prairie  had  united  in  one  grand  outburst, 
and  this  king  of  Alpattiokee  sped  from  one  end  to  the 
other  of  his  small  kingdom,  making  the  water  boil,  and 
leaving  a  bloody  wake  behind  him.  I  have  seen  the 
dolphin  and  porpoise  cross  and  recross  the  bow  of  a 
steamer  at  full  speed,  I  have  seen  the  shark  and  bluefish 
in  their  most  desperate  rushes,  but  it  did  seem  to  me, 
standing  by  that  solitary  creek  in  the  soft  moonlight,  as 
I  slackened  and  tightened  the  line  as  the  alligator  alter 
nately  sulked  and  darted,  that  the  remarkable  speed  of 
those  fishes  was  paralleled  in  the  lightning-like  rapidity 
with  which  that  huge  serrated  tail  clove  the  water  and 
forced  its  owner  onward.  After  a  little  while  he  got  to 
be  somewhat  exhausted,  and  I  passed  the  line  to  the  rest 
of  the  party  and  seized  the  axe,  to  be  ready  for  him  as  he 
was  drawn  ashore.  It  was  hard  work  even  then  to  land 
him  on  the  soft  sand,  and  he  would  throw  that  huge 
tail  around  till  it  nearly  touched  his  nose,  and  snap  his 
jaws  till  the  night  air  resounded  again.  But,  watching 
my  chance,  I  sunk  the  axe  deep  in  his  skull,  and  his 
struggles  ceased  as  the  quivering  paws  clawed  the  sand 
convulsively  and  then  relaxed.  We  finished  eight  moro 
before  midnight.  A  ghastly  spectacle  they  formed, 


186  AMONG   THE   SEMIXOLE3. 

lying  upon  their  backs,  their  white  bellies  and  mailed 
sides  glistening  in  the  moonlight. 

"  Umpli !  alpatah  fight  heap  !  "  was  the  only  excla 
mation  our  red  brothers  made. 

A  few  days  later  we  parted  from  our  friends,  and, 
after  sending  Jim  into  the  river,  I  hired  another  guide 
and  set  out  for  the  Indian  settlement.  The  man  I  now 
hired  was  an  old  "  cow  herder,"  having  charge  of  several 
hundred  cattle  which  roamed  in  a  half-wild  state  through 
the  woods  and  over  the  vast  prairies.  His  house  was  the 
only  one  between  Indian  river  and  Lake  Okeechobee,  a 
distance  of  nearly  fifty  miles.  We  left  the  cabin, 
mounted  upon  two  stallions  trained  for  cattle  hunting 
and  following  narrow  trails.  Each  horse  carried  a  pair 
of  saddle-bags,  bag  of  corn,  pair  of  blankets,  and  a  man. 
Each  man  had  a  gun,  pint  cup,  and  big  knife.  Leaving 
the  cabin  early  one  day,  we  reached  the  Indian  settle 
ment  late  the  next.  Our  only  guide  was  a  narrow  trail 
across  the  vast  plats,  following  dry  creek-beds,  through 
cypress  swamps  and  saw-grass  jungles,  beneath  gigantic 
pines  and  through  thick  palmetto  scrub.  We  followed 
this  trail,  made  by  the  Indians,  in  a  southwesterly  direc 
tion  till  we  struck  the  saw-grass  bordering  the  "  Big 
Cypress,"  a  belt  of  cypress  swamp  nearly  forty  miles  in 
length.  Through  this  swamp  there  was  but  one  narrow, 
blind  trail,  carefully  concealed,  lest  the  white  man 
should  find  it.  But  my  guide  was  an  old  "tracker" 
during  the  Seminole  Avar,  and  struck  it  just  where  it  en 
tered  the  swamp.  Dismounting,  we  attempted  to  lead 
our  horses  through.  Bleeding  and  torn  we  emerged 
from  the  saw-grass  to  enter  the  blackest  looking  swamp 
it  was  ever  my  lot  to  behold.  The  tall  cypress  grew  high 
above  our  heads,  shutting  out  every  ray  of  light ;  long 


AMONG  THE  SEMIXOLES.  187 

vines  and  hooked  briers  hung  from  the  limbs  above  and 
festooned  every  tree.  The  mud  beneath  was  of  the 
blackest  and  softest ;  stagnant  pools  of  water,  covered 
with  green  slime,  gave  hiding  places  to  numberless  alli 
gators  and  moccasin  snakes,  numbers  of  which  unwound 
themselves  from  the  gnarled  cypress  trees  and  wriggled 
silently  away  after  darting  at  us  their  forked  tongues. 
While  carefully  avoiding  these  noxious  places  a  long  vine 
would  come  athwart  my  horse's  back,  sweeping  blankets, 
saddle-bags  and  all  into  the  mud.  To  describe  the  rage 
of  my  guide  at  such  a  juncture  would  be  impossible.  I 
was  mad,  but  he  was  even  more  so,  and  swore  and 
stormed  in  a  way  that  was  perfectly  frightful,  caus 
ing  the  innocent  snakes  and  alligators  to  flee  in  ter 
ror  still  farther  into  the  black  fastnesses  of  the  swamp. 
My  rage  died  away  as  his  increased,  for  I  was  convinced 
that  black  as  was  the  picture,  he  was  doing  it  justice. 
At  every  leap  our  poor  beasts  sank  above  their  knees,  and 
it  required  much  dodging  to  lead  them  through  the  nar 
row  apertures  and  escape  being  struck  by  their  fore  feet. 
Never  was  daylight  hailed  more  joyfully  than  when  we 
emerged  from  the  tangled  thicket  and  at  last  reached 
solid  ground.  The  Big  Cypress  was  passed,  and  we 
were  in  the  Indian  country. 

A  few  miles  over  a  level  prairie  and  we  saw  the  first 
habitation.  A  little  further,  and  we  caught  sight  of  a 
squaw  running  rapidly  to  apprise  the  men  at  work  in  the 
swamps  of  our  arrival.  They  couldn't  have  chosen  a 
locality  more  favorable  to  their  mode  of  living  than  this. 
A  swamp  bounded  it  on  the  north  and  east,  and  a  forest 
of  pines  on  the  south  and  west.  The  scene  presented 
was  one  of  peaceful  rest  and  happiness.  What  wonder 
that  the  Seminole  fought  for  his  chosen  land  as  he  did  ! 


188  AMOXG   THE   SEMIXOLES. 

The  meadow  lark  trilled  his  clear  notes  from  the  grass, 
where,  also,  we  heard  the  mellow  whistle  of  the  quail. 
Woodpeckers  and  paroquets  flew  screaming  by,  and  the 
wood  ibis  winged  his  silent  way  overhead. 

Soon  the  entire  population  came  forth  to  meet  us, 
with  the  exception  of  the  women,  and  we  were  welcomed 
to  the  village.  There  were  sixteen  shanties  grouped 
together,  with  that  of  the  chiefs  a  little  way  off.  Four 
posts  supported  a  pitched  roof,  thatched  with  palmetto 
leaves.  The  shanty  was  open  at  the  sides  and  ends  ;  a 
raised  platform  of  logs  the  whole  length  and  breadth 
was  used  to  sleep  upon  by  night,  and  as  a  table  and 
chairs,  etc.,  by  day.  We  were  much  annoyed  by  the 
dogs,  who  would  come  about  us  examining  everything 
we  had.  They  were  nasty  little  curs,  most  of  them, 
who  would  creep  carefully  up  to  us,  with  noses  extended 
and  tails  between  their  legs,  and  who  would  scurry  away 
at  the  least  motion.  I  am  prepared  to  vouch  for  the 
statement  of  the  old  sailor,  Romans,  who,  in  1770,  says  : 
'•'They  (the  Creeks)  are  very  fond  of  dogs,  insomuch 
as  never  to  kill  one  out  of  a  litter  ;  and  it  is  not  uncom 
mon  in  the  nation  to  see  a  dog,  very  lean,  and  so  sensible 
of  his  misfortune  as  to  seek  a  wall  or  post  for  his  support 
before  venturing  to  bark."  (Another  "old  joke)/'  I 
mention  things  in  their  natural  order  of  affection  in  the 
Indian  estimation — dog,  hog,  squaAV,  and  pickaninny. 
The  hogs  were  black,  as  all  Florida  hogs  are,  and  nu 
merous.  The  children  were  brown,  and  numerous.  The 
girls  and  young  squaws  were  much  superior  to  their 
degraded  sisters  of  the  west  in  point  of  beauty  and 
cleanliness.  Of  medium  height,  with  small  hands  and 
feet  and  well-shaped  limbs.  Their  heads  were  small  and 
well-shaped ;  eyes  black  and  lustrous ;  nose  small  and 


A.MOXG   THE   SEMIXOLES.  189 

straight ;  mouth  small  and  full-lipped.  Their  hair  was 
long,  black,  and  abundant.  The  older  women  were  less 
prepossessing,  as  older  women  usually  are.  All,  how 
ever,  had  the  same  low,  musical  voice,  excepting  the  old 
hags  and  habitual  tobacco  chewers.  The  women  wore  a 
short  cape  over  the  shouldei  s,  and  a  petticoat.  These 
two  articles,  with  a  profusion  of  beads,  completed  their 
attire,  with,  of  course,  moccasins.  The  only  exception  to 
this  style  was  a  young  widow,  who,  being  in  mourning, 
was  allowed  to  wear  but  a  single  apron,  and  was  forbid 
den  by  their  law  to  leave  camp  for  two  years.  The 
squaws  are  very  careful  of  their  master's  health.  Picka 
ninnies  under  twelve,  or  thereabouts,  were  in  a  "  state 
of  nature  ; "  boys  over  twelve,  and  under  sixteen,  wore  a 
shirt,  and  girls  a  petticoat ;  women  as  described.  Upon 
great  occasions  both  sexes  ornament  themselves  with 
beads,  ribbons,  and  silver. 

At  first  the  maidens  were  coy  and  bashful,  but  they 
soon  overcame  their  natural  diffidence,  and  sweetly 
insinuated  that  "  ichee  "  (tobacco),  or  "  on-mee  "  (whis 
key),  would  not  be  unacceptable. 

After  a  short  stay  at  the  village,  we  all  went  over  to 
Indian  Parker's  cornfield,  a  mile  away  in  the  swamp. 
Parker,  his  wrife  and  children,  were  all  at  work  when  we 
arrived,  but  soon  washed  themselves,  and  set  before  us 
great  milky  ears  of  corn,  roasted  in  the  ashes.  He  had 
corn  over  six  feet  high,  pumpkins,  beans,  etc.,  all  grow 
ing  finely — this  in  April.  Next,  we  visited  Tiger  at  his 
plantation.  I  met  with  a  warm  reception,  and  was 
introduced  to  his  squaw.  In  the  course  of  our  conver 
sation  he  said  :  "  You  hum-bux-j  ? "  I  told  him  I 
thought  not  ;  I  never  had  to  my  present  knowledge. 
He  then  repeated  more  earnestly,  "You  humbuxj!" 


190  AMOXG   THE   SEMIXOLES. 

This  time  I  got  vexed,  and  told  him  I  wasn't.  A  third 
"humbuxj,"  accompanied  by  a  gesture,  directed  my 
attention  to  a  small  palmetto  shanty,  beneath  which 
were  three  iron  pots,  around  which  were  three  hungry 
Indians,  and  from  which  (the  pots,  not  the  shanty)  they 
were  "  humbuxj  ing  "  after  the  most  approved  style.  As 
I  was  extremely  hungry  I  humbuxj ed.  Here  was  an 
opportunity  !  Tiger  had  eaten  me  out  at  Alligator 
creek  ;  I  would  now  pay  him  back  in  kind.  I  looked 
for  my  guide  ;  he  had  disappeared.  I  unbuckled  my 
belt,  laid  aside  my  revolver,  and  joined  the  band  of  revel 
lers.  "  How  romantic,"  thought  I ;  "  to  be  sure,  things 
aren't  just  as  I'd  like  to  have  them,  but  then,  when 
you're  in  Eome,  etc."  The  pot  nearest  me  contained  a 
dirty  looking  liquid,  which,  as  near  I  could  remember, 
not  having  seen  any  for  six  months,  looked  exactly  like 
dish-water,  boiled  over  twice,  with  the  dish-rag  left  in. 
It  was  corn  and  water  boiled.  A  huge  wooden  spoon 
was  employed  to  convey  this  delectable  nourishment  to 
its  proper  receptacle — the  mouth.  The  bowl  of  the 
aforesaid  spoon  was  as  big  as  a  baby's  head,  and  while  I 
was  wondering  how  'twas  used,  a  shock-headed  urchin 
inserted  it,  drew  it  forth  full,  elevated  it  till  the  handle 
pointed  toward  the  zenith,  when  presto  !  the  dish-water 
disappeared,  the  spoon  was  returned  to  the  pot  with  a 
swoop  of  satisfaction,  and  Injun  number  two  proceeded 
to  do  likewise.  Number  three  did  even  so,  and  I  was 
expected  to  ditto.  I  was  hungry  ;  I  knew  it ;  I'd  eaten 
nothing  but  the  roast  corn  since  sunrise,  and  had  ridden 
near  thirty  miles  that  day.  But,  strangely,  my  appetite 
was  gone.  I  forgave  Tiger  for  eating  all  my  flapjacks  ; 
I  promised  myself  to  forget  it.  After  all,  he  hadn't 
done  so  very  badly.  But  the  eyes  of  all  were  upon  me. 


AMONG   THE   SEMIXOLES.  191 

I  must  cat,  or  lose  my  influence.  Gently  I  grasped  the 
spoon,  coyly  I  fished  for  a  few  kernels  of  corn,  and  very 
little  of  the  dish-water.  I  shut  my  eyes,  opened  my 
mouth,  shuddered,  gulped — lo,  'twas  done  !  The  sec 
ond  pot  contained  pieces  of  boiled  meat  about  an  inch 
square,  which  proved  very  good  eating.  So,  inserting 
my  fingers,  a  la  Indian,  I  drew  forth  a  piece  and  ate  it. 
The  third  vessel  contained  about  thirty  feet  of  sausage, 
looking  so  natural  and  life-like  that  I  instinctively  re 
coiled.  One  of  my  brother  revellers  would  seize  one  end 
of  the  membranous  rope,  and,  after  storing  away  as 
much  as  his  mouth  would  contain,  would  sever  by  a 
dexterous  cut  the  adipose  tissue  and  pass  it  to  the  next. 
When  my  turn  came  I  begged  to  be  excused,  and  I've 
never  hankered  for  sausage  since. 

I  stuck  to  pot  No.  2  ;  my  appetite  returned.  I  yet 
cherished  revengeful  feelings  toward  Tiger,  and  did  my 
best.  The  meat  was  tender  and  juicy  ;  moreover,  it  had 
a  delicious  flavor  that  I  never  had  found  pork  possessed 
of.  Of  course  it  was  pork  ;  it  wasn't  venison,  nor  bear, 
nor  coon  ;  and  I  vowed  I  would  get  the  receipt,  and  that 
the  next  stray  pig  should  be  offered  up.  To  be  sure 
that  it  was  a  pig  I  said  to  "  Charley,"  imitating  the 
Indian  manner,  "Urn;  good;  too  much;  'Shoko- 
calika  ?  "  A  negative  shake  of  the  head,  and  a  single 
word,  "Efab"  (dog),  terminated  the  repast.  In  my 
sleep  that  night  came  visions  of  fearful  Indian  curs, 
chopped  into  small  pieces,  yet  having  the  power  to  bark 
and  bite. 

As  a  special  honor,  I  was  assigned  the  chief's  shanty 
to  sleep  in  that  night,  he  being  away.  It  differed  in  no 
way  from  the  rest,  and  probably  the  round  logs  which 
made  my  bed  were  just  as  hard  as  the  others. 


192  AMOXG   THE   SEMIJS'OLES. 

The  next  day  we  visited  the  corn  fields,  and,  a  rain 
coming  up,  accompanied  Parker  and  Tiger  to  their  shan 
ties.  My  guide  having  offered  his  horse  to  Parker's 
squaw,  I  could  do  no  less  than  offer  mine  to  the  old 
squaw,  which  Tiger  accepted  in  behalf  of  himself.  I 
hoped  he  would  break  his  neck.  It  was  an  unique  pro 
cession  that  wound  through  the  shady  cypress  swamps 
and  over  the  prairie.  First  there  were  Parker's  two 
daughters — young  ladies  of  sixteen  and  seventeen  respec 
tively — who  had  captured  one  of  papa's  colts,  and, 
mounted  upon  its  back  man-fashion,  led  the  cavalcade. 
They  seemed  to  be  enjoying  themselves,  and  their  musi 
cal  laughter  would  come  floating  back  at  every  leap  and 
kick  of  their  half-broken  steed.  Next  came  Parker's 
wife,  astride  my  guide's  pony,  with  a  solemn-looking 
pappoose  on  her  back,  holding  up  her  scanty  skirts  with 
one  hand,  while  with  the  other  she  guided  the  beast. 
Next  came  Tiger,  with  my  rubber  blanket  over  his  head, 
a  tin  kettle  on  one  arm,  an  iron  pot  on  the  other,  and  a 
lap  full  of  corn.  He  didn't  see  the  comical  figure  he  cut, 
but  treated  the  whole  matter  as  a  thing  of  serious  mo 
ment.  Parker,  a  host  of  pickaninnies,  eleven  dogs,  a 
young  colt,  and  a  hog  or  two  came  next.  My  guide  and 
I  came  last.  The  procession  started ;  the  girls  had 
stripped,  and  were  clinging  to  the  pony  and  each  other 
for  dear  life.  We  had  gone  but  a  few  rods  before  the 
pony  suddenly  elevated  his  heels,  landing  the  girls — a 
confused  vision  of  arms  and  legs — rods  away  in  the  mud. 
With  another  flourish  of  his  heels,  and  a  snort  of  defi 
ance,  he  then  scoured  away  over  the  plain.  That  started 
the  rest ;  my  guide's  pony  vainly  strove  to  throw  his 
burden.  Tigor  had  his  hands  particularly  full  as  the  bay 
stallion  sped  away,  with  the  blanket  flapping  and  pail 


AMONG  THE  SEMItfOLES.  193 

rattling.  I  shall  never  forget  the  desperate  expression, 
of  Tiger's  face  as  he  went  off,  clinging  to  the  horse  and 
shouting  broken  fragments  of  Seminole,  such  as  "  Che- 
la-koa  (horse)  ho-la-wan-gus  (bad) ;  cha-high-wagh 
(squaw),  ho-la-wan-gus — dam  ! "  The  colt  now  went  for 
the  scene,  upsetting  a  whole  line  of  dogs,  and  extorting 
profane  exclamations  from  the  patient  Parker.  After 
we  had  reached  the  shanties  they  came  in,  one  after 
another,  and,  removing  their  wet  garments  (such  as  had 
any),  we  squatted  around  the  cheerful  blaze  of  pine 
knots,  placed  Indian  fashion,  with  the  ends  toward  the 
centre  of  the  flame. 

According  to  promise,  Charley  was  to  pilot  me  to 
Lake  Okeechobee,  but  as  several  days  elapsed,  and  no 
offer  was  made,  I  became  impatient,  and  anxiously 
sought  for  information  regarding  it.  The  only  satis 
factory  replies  I  received  were  as  to  its  size  : 

"Okeechobee,  achiska  pahleorstein,  heap  long ;  achis- 
ka  pahlehokolin." 

This  intelligence  was  very  gratifying,  as  it  settled 
many  misgivings  I  had  indulged  in 

BEVEBLY. 


XXL 

IN  THE   CYPRESS   SWAMPS 

HTAKE  OKEECHOBEE  is  almost  as  little  known 
I  J  now  as  it  was  one  hundred  years  ago,  when  it 
rejoiced  in  the  name  of  Mayaco.  Then  everything  mys 
terious  and  inexplicable  was  referred  to  Lake  Mayaco. 
The  source  of  the  river  St.  Johns,  even  now  unsettled, 
"was  said  to  be  there.  Another  river,  the  St.  Lucie,  had 
its  rise  there,  and  strange  tales  were  told  of  the  wonder 
ful  lake  by  a  Spanish  captive,  who  reached  it  by  this 
river.  The  wonderful  sacred  vulture  of  Bart-ram,  so 
vividly  described  by  that  naturalist,  was  said  to  be  a  res 
ident  of  Okeechobee,  and  hasn't  been  seen  since  its  first 
description,  a  century  ago.  With  a  few  exceptions, 
during  the  Seminole  war,  Lake  Okeechobee  has  not  been 
visited  by  white  men.  There  is  no  portion  of  our  great 
western  domain  of  the  same  area  so  completely  unknown 
to  us.  There  the  Seminole  is  said  to  have  his  best  plan 
tations  and  choicest  hunting  grounds.  In  the  secure 
fastnesses  of  the  Everglades  he  may  bid  defiance  to  our 
largest  armies,  and  laugh  at  every  effort  to  secure  him. 

When  I  found  myself  within  six  miles  of  the  great 
lake,  I  thought  that  I  should  soon  penetrate  the  dark 
belt  of  cypress  that  surrounded  it,  and  disclose  some  of 
the  wonders  locked  within  its  mysterious  shores.  I  had 
the  promise  from  my  Seminole  guide  that  he  would  fetch 


I]ST  THE   CYPRESS   SWAMPS.  195 

me  to  its  shores  ere  another  sun  had  set.  Making  every 
preparation,  the  morning  agreed  upon  I  sought  my 
guide.  To  my  surprise,  he  refused  to  go,  alleging,  as 
his  only  reason,  that  Tiger  wouldn't  let  him.  All  my 
persuasions  were  useless.  Offers  of  revolver,  howie 
knife,  and  money  were  alike  unavailing.  Tiger  was 
chief  in  the  head  chiefs  absence,  and  could  not  be  dis 
obeyed.  The  reason  of  Tiger's  veto,  as  I  afterward 
ascertained,  was  that  I  had  not  counselled  him  first,  and 
he  felt  affronted.  At  last  a  happy  thought  struck  me. 
Would  he  go  within  a  mile  of  the  lake  ?  Yes,  he  would 
do  that ;  and  we  were  soon  on  the  trail  leading  westward. 
We  passed  through  a  small  settlement  of  shanties,  the 
inhabitants  of  which  had  gone  on  a  hunt,  leaving  all 
their  household  goods  stored  away  beneath  the  palmetto 
thatch.  Over  broad  prairies  we  travelled  without  seeing 
an  indication  of  life,  and  through  pine  barrens  without 
a  single  animal  visible  ;  all  had  been  killed,  probably,  by 
the  Indians.  Soon  we  left  the  dense  swamp  that  circled 
the  edge  of  the  piney  woods,  and  struck  a  wide  stretch 
of  prairie  extending  north  and  south  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  reach.  West  we  could  see  the  tall  cypress  said  to 
border  the  lake.  Just  as  we  reached  a  little  clump  of 
palmettoes,  about  midway  the  prairie,  a  thunder-storm — 
such  as  only  Florida  is  capable  of — burst  upon  us.  For 
an  hour  the  flood  came  down,  and  drenched  us  and  our 
goods,  although  we  were  covered  with  the  broad  leaves 
of  the  palmetto. 

Soon  it  was  over,  and  the  sun  came  out,  and  there 
was  a  solemn  hush,  broken  only  by  a  low,  sullen  roar,  like 
the  roll  of  the  sea,  coming  from  the  west.  I  knew  with 
out  other  explanation  what  that  was.  It  was  the  break 
ing  of  the  surf  upon  the  shore  of  Lake  Okeechobee.  So 


19G  Itf  THE   CYPRESS   SWAMPS. 

near,  yet  likely  to  remain  as  unseen  as  though  I  was  a 
hundred  miles  away,  for  my  Indian  guide  refused  to  go 
further,  and  to  seek  a  trail  was  an  almost  hopeless  task. 
No  present  would  tempt  him  ;  no  mount  of  persuasion 
move  him.  So  we  left  him  to  return  to  his  camp,  and 
pursued  our  way  toward  the  north.  All  that  afternoon 
we  hunted  for  a  trail  that  would  take  us  to  the  lake ; 
but  none  was  found,  and  so  we  made  our  fire  beneath  a 
lone  clump  of  pines  at  night,  having  accomplished 
nothing.  Over  thirty  years  before  had  the  troopers, 
hunting  the  Seminoles,  camped  in  this  very  place.  There 
existed  here  but  one  trace  of  civilization,  and  that  was 
the  old  wagon  trail  over  which  the  supplies  for  Fort  Van 
Swearengen  and  the  lower  forts  were  drawn.  Though 
unused  since  the  Indian  war,  except  by  some  settler  flee 
ing  from  the  dread  of  conscription  during  the  rebellion, 
it  still  showed  to  the  experienced  eye  where  the  wheels 
had  worn.  How  strange  that  impression  should  remain 
so  long  !  Though  at  first  unable  to  discover  the  slightest 
trace  of  it,  I  could  soon  follow  its  course  almost  instinc 
tively,  as  sometimes  the  evidences  of  its  existence  were  so 
indefinite  that  I  could  hardly  tell  what  it  was  that  showed 
it.  It  might  be  a  worn  palmetto  root,  a  different  kind  of 
grass,  or  a  slight  depression  in  the  retentive  soil ;  some 
times,  seeing  it  rods  away,  a  close  examination  near 
would  fail  to  reveal  its  presence.  Next  morning  we 
followed  the  trail  till  it  lost  itself  in  a  swamp,  and  then 
we  struck  the  piney  woods,  intending  to  swing  around  till 
we  could  fetch  Fort  Basscngcr,  on  the  Kissimee  river. 
On  and  on  we  went,  till  our  passage  seemed  stopped  by  a 
black,  deep  creek,  overhung  with  dark  cypress,  and 
swarming  with  alligators.  This  creek  was  no  doubt  flow 
ing  directly  into  Okeechobce,  but,  as  much  as  I  wanted  to 


13"  THE   CYPEESS   SWAMPS,  197 

go  with  it,  I  was  powerless  for  the  want  of  a  boat.  There 
was  nothing  for  us  but  to  cross  it,  though  we  were 
obliged  to  swim  with  the  criticising  gaze  of  dozens  of 
alligators  fixed  upon  us,  and  dodge  fallen  trees  and 
tangled  vines  as  best  we  could.  Beyond  was  another 
swamp,  and  still  beyond  this  a  broad  stretch  of  blessed 
prairie.  Over  this  we  cantered  for  miles,  then  through 
deep  woods,  now  through  swamps,  belly  deep  in  mud, 
and  still  no  signs  of  the  signal  smokes  that  were  to  indi 
cate  the  hunter's  camp  at  Fort  Bassenger.  Before  night 
it  dawned  upon  us  that  we  were  lost.  Now,  so  long  as 
a  man  will  fight  oif  the  conviction  that  he  is  lost,  there  is 
hope  that  he  may  eventually  find  his  way  out.  But  my 
guide,  no  sooner  than  this  idea  had  dawned  upon  him, 
gave  himself  over  to  the  most  unreasonable  of  actions 
and  doings.  Heretofore  I  trusted  in  him  implicitly,  but 
I  now  saw  that  his  reason  was  gone  for  the  time,  and  my 
heart  sank.  Yielding  to  my  persuasions,  he  camped 
in  a  palmetto  clump,  and  we  ate  our  last  biscuit  and 
piece  of  pork.  We  had  saved  this  same  pork  to  the  last, 
hoping  that  we  could  induce  some  unwary  Indian  to  ac 
cept  it,  in  lieu  of  more  palatable  food.  But  no  Seminole 
was  so  accommodating,  and  we  chewed  it  in  silence. 
The  rind  was  an  inch  thick,  and  had  the  appearance  of 
amber.  I  sliced  my  piece  thin  and  bolted  it,  and  when 
my  guide  said  it  was  six  years  old  I  didn't  raise  a  doubt. 
In  the  morning  we  awoke  refreshed,  and  heading  our 
horses  northward  we  set  out.  Notwithstanding  his  age 
and  experience,  my  guide  allowed  his  fears  to  control 
him,  and  would  not  stop  to  secure  one  of  the  many  deer 
that  grazed  about  us,  for  fear  that  we  should  not  reach 
our  destination,  and  should  have  to  pass  another  night 
in  the  woods. 


198  IX   THE   CYPRESS   SWAMPS. 

To  ward  noon  we  emerged  upon  the  Kissimmee  prairie, 
and  then  could  tell  with  tolerable  certainty  the  course  to 
take.  Abandoning  all  hope  of  reaching  the  river,  we 
struck  for  the  old  military  road,  hoping  to  reach  it 
before  night.  Faint  and  weary  as  we  were,  he  would 
not  rest,  but  pressed  insanely  on,  with  but  one  idea — to 
reach  a  settler's  cabin  before  night  set  in.  As  for  me  I 
did  not  care.  I  was  at  the  mercy  of  my  guide,  and 
could  do  nothing  with  him  in  his  present  state. 

To  turn  my  back  upon  Lake  Okeechobee,  and  give 
over  all  hope  of  seeing  it,  required  a  hard  struggle.  But 
I  had  to  yield  to  necessity,  and  so  every  hour  saw  us 
further  and  further  away.  Toward  noon  we  stopped  at 
a  brackish  pool  to  quench  our  thirst,  and  here  I  ate  my 
dinner,  though  I  didn't  mean  to,  as  it  consisted  of  two 
small  fish,  which  went  down  alive  in  the  muddy  water 
and  met  an  untimely  death.  On  and  on  we  rushed. 
The  deer  sprang  up  from  their  noonday  rest  and  skip 
ped  away,  with  their  Avhite  banners  waving  tantalizingly 
near.  Sand-hill  cranes  flew  screaming  from  under  our 
very  noses.  Thousands  of  cattle  now  appeared  dotting 
the  prairie.  In  the  midst  of  plenty  we  had  passed 
nearly  twenty-four  hours  without  food.  In  the  after 
noon  I  grew  weary  of  the  continual  striking  of  my  sad 
dle-bags  against  my  legs,  and  lightened  ship  by  throw 
ing  over  the  heaviest  of  my  treasures.  A  bottle  of 
arsenic  went  first,  then  five  pounds  of  shot,  a  lot  of  car 
tridges,  and  everything  not  actually  necessary 

The  finder  will  be  suitably  rewarded. 

Just  before  we  reached  the  trail  we  were  seeking,  a 
beautiful  fox  sprang  up,  and,  stopping  a  minute  too  long 
to  look  at  the  first  men  he  probably  ever  met,  I  gave 
him  a  flying  shot  from  the  saddle  that  tumbled  him  over. 


IN"  THE   CYPKESS   SWAMPS.  199 

Then  I  was  sorry  that  I  had  killed  the  animal  for  mere 
sport,  and  vowed  I'd  not  do  it  again.  Yet  so  strong  is 
the  instinct  that,  riding  within  forty  yards  of  a  deer — 
offering  too  beautiful  a  shot  to  resist — I  handed  my  gun 
to  my  guide  and  let  him  shoot.  But  he  didn't  hit  him, 
and  I  wished  I'd  fired  instead.  As  the  sun  dipped  below 
the  horizon  we  rode  out  upon  the  old  military  road  that 
crosses  the  peninsula  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Gulf. 
We  struck  it  near  the  site  of  old  Fort  Dunn,  the  parade 
ground  of  which  is  still  in  tolerable  condition,  and  can 
tering  a  mile  or  two  further  soon  sighted  the  settler's 
house,  and  were  happy. 

Though  this  man  owned  hundreds  of  cattle,  and 
counted  as  his  all  the  acres  he  desired,  he  had  nothing 
in  the  larder  but  a  few  sweet  potatoes  ;  but  he  freely 
shared  those  few.  After  a  man  has  fasted  twenty-four 
hours,  buttermilk^  and  sweet  potatoes  will  fill  a  void 
acceptably.  That  night  we  slept  beneath  a  roof,  and  I 
shared  a  bed  with  four  vigorous  boys  and  about  three 
millions  of  very  active  fleas.  Yet,  though  the  fleas  pos 
sessed  uncommon  agility,  and  showed  decidedly  phle- 
botomous  dispositions,  and  though  there  was  music  in  the 
air,  and  everywhere  else,  from  the  joint  and  several 
efforts  of  the  various  noses  in  the  room,  and  though  the 
boys  aforesaid  procured  a  corner  in  blankets,  and  left 
me  open  to  the  attacks  of  several  very  bloodthirsty  bands 
of  mosquitoes,  /  slept.  And  it  was  sweet  potatoes  and 
buttermilk  that  awoke  me  in  the  morning.  Thirty 
miles  we  accomplished  before  dark  that  day,  riding 
across  the  St.  Johns  prairies,  which  fairly  swarmed  with 
turkeys,  and  over  the  Alapattie  flats,  where  we  found 
the  creeks,  so  dry  when  we  left,  full  to  overflowing. 
What  was  my  surprise,  when  I  reached  my  guide's  cabin, 


200  IX    THE    CYPRESS    SWAMPS. 

to  find  Indian  Parker  there  with  a  lot  of  deer  skins, 
which  I  had  bought,  paid  for,  and  left — since  then  giving 
up  all  hope  of  seeing  them.  Such  is  Scminole  honesty  ! 
What  white  man  would  have  ridden  sixty  miles  co 
restore  another's  goods  ?  I  knew  of  one  who  wouldn't. 

FEED  BEVERLY. 


XXII. 
CRUISING  ALONG  SHORE. 

IN  Florida,  eighty  miles  due  south  of  St.  Augustine, 
lies  an  immense  lagoon  of  salt  water,  called  by  the 
old  Spaniards  Rio  d'Ais,  by  the  Indians  Aisa  Natcha, 
and  by  Floridians  Indian  river.  Called  by  whatever 
name  it  may  be,  it  is  the  most  wonderful  portion  of  that 
wonderful  State.  Wonderful  for  its  bland  and  genial 
climate ;  wonderful  for  its  birds,  beasts,  and  fishes  ; 
wonderful,  above  all,  for  its  people,  who  live  in  such  a 
state  of  indolence  as  causes  a  Northerner  to  shudder. 
Situated  mainly  below  the  frost  line,  many  tropical 
fruits  reach  perfection  beneath  its  burning  sun.  The 
lime,  lemon,  guava,  banana,  pineapple,  citron,  and,  of 
course,  the  orange,  in  perfection.  The  climate  here  is 
peculiarly  adapted  to  the  needs  of  the  consumptive,  and 
he  can  live  here  for  years  in  apparent  health  after  other 
climates  have  been  tried  in  vain. 

People  who  have  tried  California,  Minnesota,  and 
the  various  resorts  in  the  Old  World,  have  pronounced 
Indian  river  in  advance  of  them  all.  The  difficulties 
attending  a  trip  here,  and  the  insufficient  accommoda 
tions,  have  prevented  its  advantages — its  natural  advan 
tages — from  becoming  generally  known.  The  steamer 
up  the  St.  Johns,  from  Jacksonville  to  Salt  Lake,  a 
distance  of  two  hundred  and  seventy-five  miles,  and  a 
9* 


202  CRUISING   ALONG   SHORE. 

portage  of  six  miles  will  bring  the  traveller  to  the  banks 
of  Indian  river,  at  Harvey's,  or  Sand  Point,  where  boat 
and  guides  may  be  hired  down  the  river  to  Jupiter,  one 
hundred  and  thirty  miles  further.  The  cost  of  transpor 
tation  from  New  York  to  Sand  Point  will  be  about  sixty 
dollars.  The  visitor  had  better  camp,  and  bring  with 
him  such  articles  of  need  as  a  camper-out  appreciates. 
An  outfit  may  be  purchased  at  Jacksonville  at  a  trifling 
advance  on  New  York  prices.  It  was  thus  that  I  pre 
pared  to  enjoy  the  pleasures  of  Indian  river.  The 
middle  of  March  found  me  waiting  at  Harvey's  for  a 
favorable  wind  down  the  river. 

Though  the  sand  that  lined  the  many  bays  was  white 
as  snow,  and  the  palms,  with  their  columnar  trunks  and 
dark  green  fronds,  made  graceful  pictures,  I  was  tired 
of  gazing  upon  the  same  ones  day  after  day,  and  finally 
persuaded  my  boatman  to  visit  the  upper  portion  of  the 
river  before  descending.  A  north-west  wind  had  driven 
the  water  upon  the  opposite  shore  two  days  before,  and 
left  his  little  boat  high  and  dry,  with  fifty  feet  of  sand 
flats  intervening  between  her  and  navigation.  But  the 
wind  again  hauled  soutlnvard,  deluging  the  western 
shore  with  returning  waters  and  enabling  us  to  get 
under  way.  As  this  wind  was  contrary  for  a  down-river 
trip,  we  headed  for  a  diiferent  quarter,  purposing  to 
visit  the  largest  orange  grove  in  Florida,  so  said  to  be, 
and  the  best.  Ten  miles  sailing  in  a  north-easterly 
direction  brought  us  to  the  landing.  Did  you,  reader, 
ever  inhale  the  fragrance  of  a  cluster  of  orange  blos 
soms  ?  You  remember  the  exquisite  penetrating  per 
fume.  Well,  add  to  the  cluster  tens  of  thousands  more 
— the  efflorescence  of  two  thousand  trees.  The  subtle 
odor  enveloped  our  boat  in  a  cloud  of  incense,  evoked 


CRUISING  ALONG   SHORE.  203 

by  the  sun  and  wafted  to  our  senses  by  a  gentle  breeze. 
A  mile  away  we  were  made  aware  of  the  existence  of  the 
grove,  yet  hidden  from  us  by  a  circling  belt  of  palms. 
Two  thousand  trees,  in  long  straight  rows,  their  glossy 
green  tops  flecked  with  immaculate  blossoms,  a  carpet 
of  emerald  spangled  with  snowy  stars.  In  the  centre  of 
the  grove  we  found  the  residence  of  the  proprietor, 
Captain  Dummit — a  log-cabin  with  palmetto-thatched 
roof.  Think  of  a  log-cabin  in  the  Garden  of  Eden  ! 
But  this  is  but  one  of  the  worthy  captain's  peculiarities. 
There  is  a  mystery  surrounding  him  which  he  never 
vouchsafes  to  break.  Even  in  his  cups — I  should  say 
buckets — never  a  word  is  uttered  regarding  his  seclu 
sion  from  the  world.  Known  far  and  near  as  a  hard 
drinker,  he  is  ever  the  same  well-bred  gentleman,  be  he 
drunk  or  sober. 

He  and  Tom  R.  once  started  down  the  river  to 
perform  some  work  at  the  lower  grove.  Before  setting 
out  he  gave  Tom  $20  to  purchase  provisions  with. 
Aforesaid  provisions  are  purchased  according  to  his, 
and,  may  be,  the  captain's  fancy:  Whiskey,  $17.50; 
hard  tack,  "jest  to  chaw  on,  you  know,"  $1.50;  pork, 
$1.  Two  bottles  of  whiskey  Tom  adds  on  his  own 
account.  The  captain  also  laid  in  a  choice  stock. 
Thus  armed  they  set  sail,  burning  with  an  unquenchable 
ardor  for  work. 

"  There's  old  Bob  ;  'twould  be  kinder  mean  to  pass 
him  without  a  smile,"  says  Tom. 

"That's  so;  let's  land." 

They  land  ;  they  "  smile  "  ;  the  smiles  broaden  into 
a  grin,  and  the  proposition  to  call  the  entire  male  popula 
tion  of  that  section,  and  have  "  a  reg'lar  time,"  is  hailed 
with  universal  acclamation.  Times,  that  is  "reg'lar 


20-i  CRUISING   ALOXG   SHORE. 

times,"  arc  much  in  vogue  on  Indian  river,  to  the  great 
absorption  and  waste  of  Time,  the  old  father.  It  was 
rather  up-hill  work  drinking  the  old  captain  drunk,  but 
the  Southern  people  are  always  earnest  in  a  worthy 
cause,  and  he  was  finally  deposited  on  a  heap  of  oyster 
shells,  "dead  gone."  In  the  morning  he  said  to  Tom, 
"  I  presume  I  was  a  little  intoxicated  last  evening  ?" 

"  You  were  just  that,  and  the  dog-goiidest,  too,  that 
I  ever  see  !  " 

"  Well,  it's  no  use  working  with  whiskey  around  ; 
pass  us  the  bottle." 

"It's  all  gone  !" 

"  Gone  !  then  we'd  better  be  sailing  for  Sand  Point, 
for  I'm  d — d  if  I'll  work  without  whiskey." 

This  was  related  to  me  while  I  camped  near  the 
grove  at  night,  and  I  give  it  as  I  think  of  it,  trusting 
the  reader  will  pardon  the  digression. 

Twenty-five  years  ago  Captains  C.  and  D.  found  the 
grove  while  hunting.  A  judicious  grafting  of  the  wild 
trees  procured,  in  a  few  years,  bountiful  returns.  The 
crops  have  sometimes  been  enormous — seven  hundred 
thousand  in  a  single  year.  Over  half  a  million  of  the 
largest,  juiciest  oranges  in  America  !  Camping  there 
that  night,  it  was  noon  the  next  day  before  a  fair  down 
river  wind  came  along.  When  it  did  come  a  storm  came 
with  it,  and  we  departed,  accompanied  by  the  Hash  of 
lightning  and  the  heavy  rolling  of  thunder.  After 
rounding  Black  Point,  our  little  craft  drove  straight  on, 
heading  with  the  river  south-south-east,  passing  Sand 
Point,  Joyncr's,  Jones'  Point,  and  all  the  other  points  on 
the  western  shore,  six  miles  of  water  intervening.  \Vc 
draw  near  the  western  shore,  and  sail  along  its  high  pine- 
covered  banks,  driving  before  the  furious  wind  with  only 


CRUISING   ALOXG    SHORE.  205 

the  jib  set.  Night  comes  and  finds  us  still  sailing.  The 
moon  struggles  feebly  with  the  clouds  that  threaten  to 
conceal  her,  and  reveals  the  captain  still  at  the  helm. 
The  waves  beat  against  his  back,  as  he  sits  in  grim 
silence,  enduring  their  buffetings  with  far  more  patience 
than  my  infrequent  questions.  It  is  late  at  night  ere  he 
comes  to  anchor  in  Elbow  creek,  and  finds  a  slight  shel 
ter  from  the  tempest.  Thankful  that,  though  wet.  I 
could  not  get  wetter,  as  the  rain  had  ceased,  I  crawled 
under  the  sail,  wrapped  myself  in  my  blanket,  and  fell 
asleep.  The  captain  never  slept  aboard,  so  he  waded 
ashore  and  "turned  in  "  on  the  beach.  The  usual  sleep 
of  the  camper-out  was  granted  me,  long  and  unbroken, 
and  I  was  only  awakened  in  the  morning  by  the  fall  of 
an  oar.  » 

Elbow  creek,  with  its  fantastically  worn  coquina 
banks,  is  selected  as  the  Indian  river  terminus  of  a  canal 
to  unite  the  St.  Johns  and  this  lagoon,  Lake  Washing 
ton  being  the  end  of  navigation  on  the  St.  Johns,  six 
miles  away.  Though  I  don't  take  stock  in  the  company, 
I.  doubt  not  its  utility,  if  navigation  on  the  St.  Johns  will 
warrant  its  being  kept  open  all  the  year.  A  sail  of  five 
miles  across  the  river  brought  us  to  a  jutting  headland 
of  coquina,  supporting  a  scanty  soil,  covered  with  a  rich 
growth  of  beautiful  palms,  tall  century  plants,  and  Sisal 
hemp.  Two  crescent-shaped  bays,  one  facing  north,  the 
other  south,  curved  inland,  their  shores  a  firm,  snowy 
sand.  Landing,  I  soon  discovered  a  small  grove  of 
orange  trees,  being  guided  to  them  by  their  fragrant 
blossoms.  Here  I  discovered  the  only  evidence  of  civili 
zation  I  had  seen  this  side  of  the  river,  an  object  that 
once  must  have  caused  joy  in  the  household,  and  sad 
ness  for  its  loss.  A  piano,  covered  with  a  few  boards,  its 


206  CRUISIXG   ALONG   SHORE. 

legs  shattered,  and  its  keys  rattling  in  the  wind,  stood 
where  once  had  been  a  home.  It  was  the  old  story  of 
war's  desolation  and  ruined  fortune  that  accounted  for 
this  lone  memento  of  better  days  in  a  forest  five  miles 
from  the  nearest  house. 

At  this  place  is  the  southern  end  of  Merritt's  Island, 
which  parts  Indian  river,  the  portion  east,  between  the 
island  and  the  coast,  being  known  as  Banana  river,  and 
that  west  retaining  its  old  name.  Cape  Canaveral  is  not 
far  distant,  where  lives  the  best  man  on  the  river,  Cap 
tain  Burnham,  keeper  of  the  lighthouse  there.  From 
the  lighthouse  down  I  counted  six  wrecks,  thrown  upon 
the  shore  in  a  September  gale.  Making  a  fire  from  drift 
wood,  we  soon  had  flapjacks  and  potatoes  enough  for  our 
inner  man.  It  was  here  that  I  received  a  lesson  in  clean 
liness  I  shall  not  soon  forget.  I  had  omitted  to  provide 
myself  with  a  dish-cloth,  and  while  the  captain  was 
cursing  my  heedlessness,  I  went  off  for  some  Spanish 
moss  in  lieu  thereof.  What  was  my  surprise,  upon  re 
turning,  to  find  the  plates  dry,  and  apparently  clean. 

"Where  did  you  find  a  cloth  ?" 

"Oh,  I  took  my  handkerchief  !" 

Now,  the  'kerchief  was  the  captain's  only  article  in 
that  line  ;  a  very  dirty  and  greasy  bandana,  which,  be 
sides  doing  duty  in  a  nasal  way,  was  frequently  applied 
to  his  watery  optics,  making  its  cleanliness  a  matter  of 
doubt.  When  I  remonstrated  with  him  he  declared  I 
was  "the  dirtiest  cuss  he  ever  see,"  and  inquired  sar 
castically  if  I  thought  he  was  a  fool.  The  cause  of  his 
wrath,  I  afterward  ascertained,  was  not  my  objections, 
Lut  that  I  had  overlooked  the  fact  of  his  Washing  it, 
which' he  had  done  in  the  drinking  water  bucket.  The 
native  goodness  of  his  character  was  made  manifest  that 


CRUISING   ALONG   SHORE.  207 

night,  when,  after  keeping  silent  all  day,  he  extended 
his  hand  with  the  remark  "he  guessed  'twas  all  right." 
About  fifty-five  miles  from  Harvey's  is  Turkey  creek, 
where  is  the  only  banana  plantation  of  any  extent  on  the 
river.  The  huge  plants,  with  their  broad  green  leaves 
an  d^  curiously  formed  fruit  and  flowers,  were  beautiful 
and  picturesque.  They  contrasted  favorably  with  the 
stunted,  frost-bitten  plants  I  had  seen  on  the  St.  Johns 
in  December.  This  lagoon  is  ahead  of  all  northern 
Florida  in  everything — fruit,  climate  and  game.  Oranges 
grow  here  in  three  years  from  the  seed ;  ahead  of  St. 
Johns  by  at  least  two  years.  There  is  almost  no  frost, 
and  no  disease  peculiar  to  the  region,  while  game  of  all 
descriptions  line  its  shores.  We  spent  two  days  and 
nights  wind-bound  at  St.  Sebastian  creek,  during  which 
time  we  visited  the  coast  near  the  place  where,  in  1710, 
a  fleet  of  Spanish  galleons  were  driven  ashore  and  lost. 
We  found  no  pistareens,  which  Eomans  tells  us  were 
washed  up  as  late  as  1770,  but  found  plenty  of  deer  and 
bear  tracks,  and  pelican  and  ducks  upon  the  river  side 
without  number.  The  sea  grape  and  cocoa  plum  grow 
here  in  profusion.  The  former  is  a  stout  shrub,  rapidly 
increasing  in  size  as  it  nears  the  tropics,  with  a  broad, 
heart-shaped,  satin  leaf.  The  fruit  of  the  cocoa  plum  is 
about  as  large  as  the  common  plum,  with  a  white  flesh 
and  red  skin.  It  has  a  pleasant  taste.  The  high  sand- 
ridge,  separating  river  from  ocean,  is  less  than  three 
hundred  yards  across  here,  and  thickly  covered  with 
scrub  palmetto  and  gay  colored  flowers.  Standing  on 
its  highest  portion  I  can  trace  the  sparkling  length  of 
Indian  river  and  look  upon  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic 
at  the  same  moment.  For  seventy-five  miles  one  can 
hear  the  ocean  surf  as  he  sails  upon  the  river.  The  high 


208  CRUISING   ALONG   SHORE. 

bluffs  near  St.  Sebastian  have  been  selected  as  the  site 
for  a  hotel,  but  are  not  well  suited  for  such  a  purpose. 
Xear  here  is  Barker's  Bluff,  named  after  a  man  who  lost 
his  life  there — killed  by  the  Indians,  at  the  same  time 
my  friend,  Major  Russell,  lost  an  arm.  A  few  miles 
away  is  an  island  draped  in  white,  its  trees  seemingly 
covered  with  snow,  a  circling  flight  of  birds  hovering 
over  it,  the  water  around  dotted  with  hundreds  of  dusky 
objects,  and  the  same  dusky  forms  coming  and  going 
with  no  cessation  in  their  flight. 

"That's  Pelican  Island,"  said  the  captain.  As  we 
approached,  the  dark  objects  grew  more  distinct,  and 
assumed  definite  shapes.  The  island  of  about  two  acres 
was  covered  with  mangroves,  long  since  dead  ;  every 
tree  loaded  down  with  nests — great,  bulky  affairs,  two 
feet  across  and  flat.  Every  tree  and  nest  was  completely 
covered  with  the  limy  excrement  of  the  birds,  giving  the 
island  its  snowy  appearance  at  a  distance.  Each  nest 
contained  two  nearly  fledged  young  ones,  all  uniting  in 
giving  utterance  to  the  most  diabolical  and  soul-rending 
sounds,  which,  added  to  the  cawing  of  fish,  crows  in 
search  of  eggs,  and  the  screaming  of  eagles  overhead, 
gave  one  as  good  an  idea  of  pandemonium  as  mortal  man 
can  conceive.  Though  standing  close  together,  the  cap 
tain  and  I  had  to  shout  our  loudest  to  be  heard.  The 
ground  was  covered  with  young  birds  huddled  together 
in  fright.  The  eagles  and  vultures  had  committed  great 
havoc,  and  from  branches  suspended  and  stretched  upon 
the  ground,  were  the  decomposing  carcasses  of  old  and 
young,  which,  added  to  the  decaying  fish,  filled  the  air 
with  odors — not  of  A  ruby.  The  old  pelicans  were  flying 
overhead  in  clouds,  occasionally  alighting  on  some  remote 


CRUISING    ALOXG   SHORE.  209 

tree  to  feed  the  young  with  fish,  which  they  brought  to 
them  in  their  pouches. 

Two  months  later,  in  May,  I  found  the  young  had 
flown,  and  every  nest  with  a  complement  of  large  white 
eggs.  There  are  two  species  of  pelican  on  our  Atlantic 
coast — the  white  and  brown.  This  was  the  brown  ;  its 
plumage  of  mottled  white  and  gray  on  the  back,  dark 
sides  and  breast,  with  a  rich  velvety  brown  neck  and 
white  head,  was  not  altogether  homely.  Their  long  bills, 
a  foot  in  length,  and  immense  pouches,  capable  of  hold 
ing  a  gallon,  give  them  a  very  odd  appearance. 

The  approaches  to  the  "  Narrows "  are  guarded  by 
two  walls  of  living  green,  which,  when  seen  at  a  distance, 
seem  to  be  but  a  few  paces  apart,  leaving  but  a  narrow 
gateway.  As  we  draw  near,  however,  the  distance 
increases,  disclosing  a  passage  nearly  a  mile  in  width. 
Seventy  miles  it  is  to  the  northern  end  of  the  lagoon, 
and  above  there  is  a  varying  width  of  from  three  to 
eight  miles.  Below  the  Narrows  is  a  land  of  plenty. 

Here  the  oysters  accumulate  in  such  quantities  that 
they  form  this  narrow  passage.  A  storm  is  observed 
gathering,  and  just  as  we  enter  the  Mangrove  Islands  it 
bursts  upon  us.  Before  the  north  wind  we  scud  with 
bare  poles,  and  are  obliged  to  exert  all  our  caution 
to  prevent  being  wrecked  upon  some  of  the  many  oyster 
reefs  that  obstruct  the  channel. 

It  is  ten  miles  through  ;  and  through  the  gathering 
gloom  we  just  discern  a  sheltering  point,  after  long 
exposure  to  the  gale.  "With  the  storm  thundering  after 
us,  we  silently  endure  the  rain,  hoping  that  night  will 
bring  relief  ;  but  no  lull  occurs,  and  we  anchor  behind  a 
projecting  reef  and  finally  wade  ashore.  Hanging  our 
blankets  on  the  mangroves  to  windward,  we  finally  start 


210  CRUISING   ALONG   SHOEE. 

a  fire  with  the  aid  of  light  wood-splinters,  and  after 
warming  some  flapjacks  and  thoroughly  steaming  our 
selves,  roll  ourselves  in  our  blankets  and  sleep,  with 
sundry  awakenings  to  replenish  the  fire. 

Toward  morning  the  rain  ceased,  but  not  till  it  had 
wet  us  through — yes,  through,  for  the  captain  said  he 
could  feel  the  rain  water  "slosh  about"  in  his  stomach. 
I  know  that,  although  I  had  carefully  covered  myself 
with  my  rubber  blanket,  when  I  awoke  it  was  to  find 
myself  in  a  puddle  four  inches  deep.  Under  the  cir 
cumstances,  wasn't  it  natural  that  I  should  desire  just  a 
drop  of  whiskey  ?  I  had  a  quart  of  the  best,  which  I 
had  intrusted  to  the  captain's  locker,  and  thought  that 
now,  if  ever,  was  the  time  to  use  it. 

"  Captain,  in  my  youth,  when  very  young,  and  con 
sequently  incompetent  for  such  a  performance,  I  signed 
the  pledge.  Kemember,  it  was  while  quite  young,  and 
at  a  very  tender  age  ;  in  fact,  I  think  it  hardly  valid 
now,  and  binding.  Then  again,  I  signed  off  from  any 
thing  that  would  intoxicate,  and  I'm  ready  to  swear  that 
nothing  ever  distilled  from  grain  can  intoxicate  me  now, 
there's  so  much  water  in  me.  I  think  I'll  try  a  drop  of 
that  whiskey." 

"  The  bottle  is  in  the  starn." 

Quickly  I  drew  it  forth  ;  slowly  and  sadly  I  returned 
it — 'twas  empty.  The  captain  evaded  my  gaze,  mutter 
ing  the  while  :  " 'Twas  so  confounded  bad  I  didn't  like 
to  have  it  round,  and  so  I  drunk  it  up  first  night." 

A  run  of  a  dozen  miles  in  the  genial  warmth  of  the 
sun  restores  our  spirits — not  the  spiritus  frumenti,  how 
ever — and  we  land  at  Fort  Capron,  an  old  military  post, 
with  a  very  sharp  appetite  for  breakfast.  A  hedge  of 
oleanders  ten  feet  in  height  surrounds  the  plantation, 


CRUISING   ALONG   SHORE.  211 

now  gone  to  decay.  The  Cherokee  rose,  and  the  Spanish 
bayonet  with  its  magnificent  pyramid  of  honey-scented 
bells,  add  their  fragrance  to  that  of  the  oleander.  A 
walk  through  the  deserted  orange  grove  reveals  many 
tropical  wonders,  such  as  the  India  rubber,  satin-wood, 
guava,  lime,  lemon,  and  citron.  Vestiges  of  pineapple 
plants  are  shown,  which  can  be  raised  here  successfully. 
At  Fort  Pierce,  four  miles  south,  is  an  excellent  location 
for  a  hotel  or  boarding  house.  The  situation  is  high 
and  airy,  securing  immunity  from  those  pests  of  the 
low  land,  the  sand-flies.  It  is  opposite  to  the  main 
entrance  to  the  Atlantic,  where  vessels  of  not  over  four 
feet  draught  can  enter.  Directly  in  front  are  vast  oyster 
beds,  and  in  December  the  turtle — the  "green  turtle 
soup  "  kind — swarm  in  to  feed  and  are  caught.  Deer, 
turkeys,  quail,  in  fact  all  kinds  of  game  ;  fish,  from 
saw-fish  and  sharks,  to  mullets  and  bass. 

And  then  the  climate  !  Rarely,  even  in  summer, 
does  the  thermometer  indicate  more  than  85  degrees. 
A  south-east  breeze  blows  in  summer  all  night  long, 
making  the  nights  cool  and  comfortable.  It  is  the  very 
paradise  for  the  consumptive,  the  fountain  of  youth  for 
him  with  pulmonary  complaint  of  whatever  kind.  But 
two  frosts  for  twenty  years  have  occurred,  and  those  not 
serious.  This  description  of  climate  will  answer  for 
nearly  the  whole  river,  modified  only  by  the  slight  dif 
ference  in  latitude.  The  waters  of  the  Gulf  Stream  lave 
the  coast,  tempering  the  wind  in  winter.  One  of  the 
surgeons  in  the  army  stationed  here  during  the  Seminole 
war,  after  sixteen  years'  service,  gave  it  as  his  opinion 
that  this  immediate  country  was  the  healthiest  in  the 
United  States.  Absolutely  free  from  disease,  'tis  said 
that  the  people  are  obliged  to  remove  to  the  next  county 


212  CRUISING   ALOXG    SHORE. 

to  die.  When  better  means  of  transportation  are  offered, 
the  whole  river  will  be  the  winter  rendezvous  of  thou 
sands  of  health-seekers  and  sportsmen,  who  now  shiver 
the  winter  through  on  the  St.  Johns. 

There  is  but  one  annoyance — insects.  For  real  tall 
and  lofty  jumping  and  biting,  the  flea  is  unapproach 
able  ;  but  his  endeavors  are  put  to  shame  by  the  mosqui 
toes  and  sand-flies.  The  flea  may  be  avoided,  if  hotel- 
haunted  and  hog-haunted  sections  are  avoided.  The 
mosquito  may  be  kept  at  bay  at  night,  his  hunting 
season,  by  a  good  "bar"  ;  but  unless  one  is  provided 
with  an  impregnable  skin  and  a  large  stock  of  patience, 
he  will  be  sure  to  break  some  of  the  commandments  over 
the  sand-flies.  Snakes  are  not  numerous  enough  to  be 
dangerous,  except  in  swamps,  where  the  tourist  need  not 
go.  This,  in  a  word,  is  the  good  and  bad  of  Indian 
river. 

Twenty  miles  below  Fort  Pierce  is  the  St.  Lucie 
river,  coming  in  from  the  westward,  forming  a  beautiful 
bay  as  it  joins  the  waters  of  the  lagoon.  Three  miles 
south  of  St.  Lucie  the  broad  sound  suddenly  ends,  and 
after  a  chain  of  small  lakes,  as  it  were,  the  channel 
winds  through  densely-covered  mangrove  islands, 
scarcely  fifty  yards  in  width. 

An  adverse  wind,  and  consequently  current,  kept  us 
at  the  mouth  of  Jupiter  Narrows  two  days.  We  passed 
the  time  shooting  turkeys  and  alligators,  and  watching 
the  graceful  "  man-o'-war  hawks,"  as  they  sailed  over 
head  on  wide-extended  wings.  The  ocean  beach  pre 
sented  many  attractions  ;  the  beautiful  sea  beans  and 
shells  of  exquisite  tints,  besides  vast  multitudes  of  birds. 
Sometimes  we  would  find  cocoanuts  and  fragments  of 
foreign  wood,  thrown  up  by  the  resistless  waters.  The 


CRUISING   ALONG   SHORE.  213 

third  day  of  waiting  we  entered  the  Narrows,  the  most 
interesting  portion  of  this  vast  lagoon.  From  a  point 
a  hundred  miles  north  it  stretches  away  south-east,  now 
expanding,  now  contracting,  till  from  a  width  of  eight 
miles  near  its  northern  end  it  is  here  less  than  fifty  feet. 
Each  side  of  us  the  mangroves  rise  far  overhead,  some 
times  mingling  their  leaves  in  an  arch  of  living  green. 
Their  gnarled  roots  strike  down  into  the  mud  in  every 
direction,  supporting  the  trunk  in  mid-air  many  feet 
from  the  ground.  What  a  number  of  roots  !  Koots 
from  the  trunk,  with  minor  roots  springing  from  them 
in  every  conceivable  direction  ;  roots  from  the  branches, 
and  these  again  with  smaller  roots  of  their  own.  Here, 
a  mile  or  so  in,  is  a  luxuriant  hammock,  where  a  man 
named  Peck  undertook  to  subjugate  the  rank  growth, 
but  the  mosquitoes  and  sand-flies  proved  too  many  for 
him,  and  his  bones  rest  peacefully,  etc.  Here  is  a  small 
spring,  and  the  water  cask  had  better  be  filled. 

No  sound  breaks  the  solemn  hush,  except  the  tap  of 
the  setting-pole  and  the  ripple  of  water  at  our  bow,  as 
we  slowly  forge  ahead. 

A  noticeable  feature  in  the  green  walls  about  us  is  the 
India  rubber.  Whenever  a  clump  of  palms  occurs  we 
find  this  tree,  enfolding  in  its  trunk  the  stem  of  a  palm. 
The  rapidly  growing  Walls  gradually  encircle  the  palm  in 
an  embrace  of  living  wood,  till  finally  it  is  seen  only 
through  the  interstices  in  the  rubber.  As  the  tops  of 
the  respective  trees  intermingle — the  feathery  frond  of 
the  palm  and  waxy,  green  leaves  of  the  rubber — a  beau 
tiful  effect  is  produced.  Delicate  ferns  grown  in  the 
mesh-work,  and  gorgeous  epiphytes,  with  flaming  spikes 
of  blossom,  attach  themselves  to  the  branches.  Iron- 
wood,  crabwood,  and  many  other  valuable  woods  are 


214  CRUISING   ALOXG    SHORE. 

found  along  the  shore  of  Hobe  Sound,  into  which  we 
emerge  from  the  Narrows.  Near  its  entrance  we  saw  the 
carcass  of  a  manatee,  or  sea-cow,  over  which  a  coroner's 
jury  of  vultures  were  holding  inquest.  From  the  south 
end  of  the  Narrows,  which  are  seven  miles  in  length,  it 
is  twelve  miles  to  the  end  of  the  river.  Crossing 
"  Conch  Bar,"  we  follow  the  stakes  indicating  the  chan 
nel,  and  soon  see  the  dome-shaped  lantern,  and  afterward 
the  symmetrical  shaft  of  Jupiter  Light.  During  all  our 
voyage,  our  course  has  ever  been  to  the  south.  Soon  we 
strike  the  waters  of  the  Lokohatchee,  which  coming  from 
the  west,  unite  with  Indian  river  near  the  lighthouse, 
and  run  due  east,  through  Jupiter  Inlet  to  the  ocean. 
Rounding  the  point,  we  are  soon  at  anchor,  and  ascend 
the  steep  bank  to  a  small  house  of  coquina  rock,  where 
we  are  made  welcome. 

This  was  at  noon.  At  night  I  climbed,  with  the  two 
keepers,  to  the  top  of  the  hollow  shaft,  and  looked  off 
from  the  circling  platform  upon  a  scene  of  absorbing 
interest.  A  glimpse  of  northern  wildness  and  sterility, 
and  southern  luxuriance  and  fertility,  the  fragile  flowers 
of  the  tropics  blended  with  the  hardy  shrubs  and  trees  of 
the  north.  The  palm  and  pine,  the  oak  and  orange,  man 
grove  and  maple.  "  Semi-tropical  "  indicates  Florida's 
status  in  climate  and  vegetation.  Half  northern,  half 
southern — a  kind  of  half-and-half  character  that  extends 
to  more  than  climate.  We  have  here  a  land  and  water 
view  of  surpassing  beauty.  The  broad  Atlantic  bounds 
the  vision  east,  its  shores  extending  in  curving  lines  from 
north  to  south.  Down  from  the  north  comes  Indian 
river,  curved  in  outline — a  bay,  a  creek,  fringed  with 
] nil  in,  pine,  and  mangrove.  From  the  west  comes  in 
the  Lokohatchee, charming  in  parks  of  pine  and  green 


CRUISING   ALONG   SHORE.  215 

mangrove  islands  ;  its  windings  reveal  it  in  sheets  of 
silver  among  the  trees.  A  narrow  creek  leads  from  it 
southward  toward  Lake  Worth.  As  I  looked  upon  this 
scene  I  saw  no  sign  of  life,  save  at  the  cottage,  one  hun 
dred  and  fifty  feet  below  me.  North,  the  nearest  human 
habitation  was  forty  miles  away ;  south,  one  hundred  ; 
west,  no  one  knows  ;  the  swamps  and  forests  there  are 
peopled  only  by  red  men. 

The  sun's  last  rays  had  disappeared,  leaving  clouds 
of  crimson  and  gold  piled  up  behind  the  dark  pine  forest, 
as  I  entered  the  lantern,  where  the  light  was  already 
glowing.  I  seated  myself  in  the  crystal  dome,  and 
watched  the  reflected  colors  as  they  came  and  went  with 
each  revolution  of  the  lantern.  As  the  lantern  revolves, 
every  prism  catches  the  rays  of  light  and  rends  them  into 
their  primary  colors,  paints  the  colors  of  the  rainbow 
upon  the  polished  roof,  and  throws  them  forward  to  be 
reproduced  a  thousand  times  in  the  crystal  bars.  As  the 
strong  light  shone  forth,  I  thought  of  the  many  eyes  gaz 
ing  upon  it  other  than  those  of  the  sailors  for  whom  it 
was  intended.  The  timid  deer,  the  ferocious  puma  and 
wild  cat,  the  bear  from  his  "hammock" — for  bears  do 
have  "hammocks" — of  palms.  No  doubt  the  reflected 
light  is  visible  to  the  Indians  dwelling  upon  the  prairie 
bordering  that  mysterious  lake,  Okeechobee.  Toward 
midnight  a  little  warbler  fluttered  against  the  glass, 
striving  to  enter.  The  keeper  has  often  found  them 
after  storms.  The  large  plates  have  been  shattered  by 
birds,  who  were  afterward  found  lifeless  with  mangled 
breasts.  Many  birds  foreign  to  our  country  have  flown 
against  the  glittering,  though  fatal  glass. 

Once  a  year  the  supply-ship  visits  this  place,  in  its 
annual  tour  from  Maine  to  Florida.  Other  than  this 


216  CRUISING  ALONG   SHORE. 

visit  from  Uncle  Sam,  the  inhabitants  of  Jupiter  have 
few  visitors.  A  few  stray  waifs  from  the  North  drift 
clown  upon  them,  brighten  them  with  their  presence 
awhile,  set  their  sails  again,  and  disappear  in  the  gloom 
of  the  mangroves.  Indian  river,  once  visited,  leaves  a 
longing  in  the  heart  of  the  visitant  never  satisfied,  till 
the  sparkle  of  its  waters  again  gladden  his  eye,  and  his 
tent  is  pitched  upon  its  sunny  sands.  Certainly  no  other 
section  of  our  country  possesses  so  many  natural  charms, 
united  with  real  blessings,  so  easily  accessible. 

FRED  BEVERLY. 


XXIII. 

SHOOTING  AT  SALT  LAKE. 

~XT~OMINALLY  three  miles  in  length  by  two  in 
JL1  breadth,  this  little  lake  is  reduced  to  half  that  area 
in  the  low  stages  of  water,  thus  accounting  for  the  land 
ing  of  the  steamer  in  a  creek  a  mile  or  more  away.  A 
vast  plain  of  waving  reeds  and  salt  grass  surrounds  the 
lake  on  three  sides  ;  on  the  eastern,  the  pine  woods  come 
down  to  the  shore,  offering  the  only  landing.  Having 
boats  of  our  own  we  succeeded  in  evading  the  extortion 
ate  charges  of  the  lightermen,  and  pitched  our  tent  in 
the  pine  barrens,  a  mile  from  the  lake. 

The  morning  after  our  arrival  I  sailed  out  to  taste 
the  pleasures  my  observations  the  day  previous  had  pre 
pared  me  for.  The  breezy  freshness  of  that  morning 
comes  to  me  now  as  I  write,  laden  with  the  odor  of 
flowers  and  the  songs  of  birds.  The  quail  called  from 
an  old  field  in  the  hammock ;  the  woodpecker  rattled 
joyously  over  the  pines,  and  that  odd  bird,  the  fish-crow, 
"haw-hawed**  from  the  broad  limbed,  moss-draped  live- 
oaks.  As  I  reached  the  shore,  I  caused  a  flutter  in  the  vast 
swarm  of  the  tringince  feeding  there,  and  provoked  the 
"killdee,"  that  pest  of  the  shore,  to  send  forth  a  warn 
ing  cry.  Overhead,  the  graceful  seamews  winged  their 
way,  anon  dipping  into  the  water  for  food.  The  fish- 
hawk  drew  from  the  lake  a  mighty  bass,  but  hushed  his 
10 


218  SHOOTING  AT  SALT  LAKE. 

exultant  screams,  and  fled  in  sudden  terror  before  the 
piratical  attack  of  the  eagle.  Ranged  along  the  shore 
were  the  various  representatives  of  the  heron  family, 
from  the  watchful  great  blue  to  the  wary  and  graceful 
snowy  heron.  Started  up  the  busy  multitude  upon  the 
shore,  I  let  fly  a  single  barrel  at  them,  picking  up  near 
thirty  birds,  yellow-legs,  killdee,  and  red-breasted  snipe. 
Then  (for  I  wasn't  bloodthirsty  at  all,  and  cared  more 
for  variety  than  quantity),  I  deposited  my  birds  in  a 
place  of  safety,  and  cautiously  waded  through  the  long 
matted  grass,  the  abode  of  moccasin  snakes,  to  a  space 
swept  clean  by  fire.  Scarcely  had  my  feet  touched  its 
border,  when  my  ear  was  delighted  with  the  sound,  wel 
come  to  all  sportsmen,  "  scaip,  scaip,"  denoting  the  pres 
ence  of  genuine  snipe.  From  every  side,  before,  behind, 
came  that  welcome  "  scaip,"  as  the  birds  arose  at  my 
approach,  or  at  the  report  of  my  gun.  \Visps  of  them 
would  launch  into  the  air,  whence  after  a  few  fantas 
tic  evolutions  they  would  return  to  earth  again.  I  fre 
quently  got  double  shots,  and  might  have  loaded  myself, 
but  as  there  was  no  one  near  to  share  the  sport,  and  future 
wants  might  need  supply  here,  I  drew  off  early,  deposit 
ing  my  booty  with  their  cousins  of  the  shore.  This  was 
sufficient  for  the  small  birds,  and  launching  my  boat 
and  running  out  from  the  little  creek,  I  made  an  on 
slaught  on  a  flock  of  coots  (for  coots'  breasts  and  drum 
sticks  are  good,  well  boiled),  and  then  skirted  a  broad 
bay,  where  were  feeding  large  flocks  of  pin-tail  ducks, 
teal,  and  scattered  groups  of  black  ducks.  Without 
inflicting  upon  the  reader  a  detailed  account  of  the 
approach,  through  blind  ponds,  and  within  shot  of 
countless  hundreds  of  busy  plover  aud  snipe,  I  will  add 


SHOOTING    AT   SALT   LAKE.  219 

that  there  shortly  reposed  a  goodly  pile  of  well-favored 
ducks  in  the  bottom  of  my  boat. 

It  was  now  near  noon,  and  while  munching  my  frugal 
lunch,  I  cast  about  me  for  some  larger  game  more  worthy 
of  my  labor.  Eunning  my  eye  along  the  shore,  I  saw, 
wherever  a  sandy  reach  stood  out  from  the  reedy  margin, 
dozens  of  long,  black  objects  stretched  motionless  upon 
the  snowy  sand.  These  were  alligators  which  the  sun  had 
called  from  the  depths  of  the  lake  to  enjoy  his  beams  in 
the  open  air.  There  were  all  sorts  and  sizes,  from  the  lit 
tle  snapper,  a  foot  long,  to  the  old  bull  alligator  of  a  dozen 
feet  in  length,  patriarch  of  a  large  tribe.  Softly  pad 
dling  my  boat  up  a  crooked  creek,  I  watched  the  "  'gators  " 
as  they  slipped  oif  the  banks  into  the  water,  where  they 
would  remain  an  instant  watching  me,  then  disappear. 
Soon  came  my  opportunity  ;  rounding  a  sharp  curve,  I  dis 
covered  a  nine-footer,  fast  asleep,  with  mouth  wide  open. 
The  vulnerable  parts  of  the  alligator  are  the  eye,  ear,  and 
the  heart,  reached  by  placing  a  shot  behind  the  fore  leg. 
This  I  well  knew,  but  just  as  I  sighted  his  ear,  a  snake 
slipped  into  the  water,  distracting  my  attention  a  trifle, 
and  the  bulk  of  the  charge  was  placed  too  far  behind. 
It  seemed  to  be  effectual,  however,  and  running  my  boat 
alongside,  I  essayed  to  roll  him  in.  As  his  paws  were 
working  convulsively,  affording  no  hold,  I  stuck  my 
bowie  knife  full  into  his  eye  to  facilitate  operations. 
This  seemed  to  have  an  enlivening  effect,  for  he  at  once 
commenced  a  series  of  gymnastic  evolutions  that  would 
have  struck  terror  to  the  heart  of  Dio  Lewis  himself. 
Finding  that  he  was  retreating  toward  the  creek,  carry 
ing  my  eigh teen-inch  bowie  with  him,  I  seized  my  gun  and 
stretched  him  upon  his  back  with  quivering  paws.  Then 
rolling  him  into  the  boat,  I  soon  had  him  at  the  land- 


220  SIIOOTIXG   AT   SALT   LAKE. 

ing.  As  the  best  time  to  skin  an  alligator  is  while  he  is 
warm,  and  some  say  kicking,  I  skinned  him  at  once. 
Cutting  a  slit  down  the  back  of  each  paw,  and  running 
a  continuous  line  from  the  under  jaw  to  the  tail,  just 
below  the  bony  mail,,  on  each  side,  I  removed  the  skin 
easily  by  pulling  from  the  tail  toward  the  head. 

Observing  an  alligator  on  my  way  back,  seemingly 
two  feet  longer  than  the  one  secured,  I  determined  to 
capture  him.  Rowing  cautiously  along  shore,  I  at  length 
espied  him  crawling  under  water  toward  a  narrow 
though  deep  creek.  Getting  between  him  and  the 
object  he  was  aiming  for,  I  stopped  him,  and  he  finally 
seemed  convinced  that  the  best  thing  he  could  do  was  to 
lie  still.  I  fancied  I  could  discern  a  sinister  gleam  in 
his  eye,  that  boded  evil  in  case  we  came  in  contact. 
Placing  my  gun  across  the  thwarts,  and  pushing  carefully 
toward  him,  I  held  myself  in  readiness  for  attack  at  any 
moment.  But  he  seemed  to  fancy  himself  so  secure  witli 
the  slight  covering  of  water  over  him  that  the  boat 
almost  grazed  his  side  before  I  had  sent  the  contents  of 
one  barrel  of  my  gun  into  his  ear.  Contrary  to  my  ex 
pectations  he  lay  motionless,  and  instead  of  shooting  the 
boat  out  of  reach  of  his  tail,  as  I  was  prepared  to  do,  I 
lay  alongside,  and  passed  over  his  head  a  noose  of  stout 
line  preparatory  to  towing  him  ashore.  No  sooner  did 
he  feel  the  line  tightening  about  his  throat  than  he  con 
cluded  to  come  to  life  again,  and  after  a  few  preliminary 
kicks  and  flourishes,  proceeded  to  roll  over  and  over, 
much  to  my  grief  and  discomfiture.  With  strange 
shortsightedness  I  had  omitted  to  cast  off  the  line  from 
the  bow  of  the  boat,  and  now  that  the  'gator  was  wind 
ing  it  about  him  with  the  rapidity  of  a  patent  windlass, 
I  suddenly  thought  of  it ;  but  it  was  too  late.  Bracing 


SHOOTING  AT  SALT  LAKE.  221 

myself  against  the  rail  of  the  boat,  I  held  on  till  my 
arms  seemed  about  to  bid  me  good-by,  and  the  sides  of 
the  boat  cracked  again  and  again.  Then  he  stopped, 
but  just  as  I  had  dropped  the  line  and  started  for  my 
gun,  he  commenced  again.  This  time  he  untwisted 
what  he  had  twisted  before,  and  commenced  twisting  in 
another  direction,  and  when  he  had  drawn  out  the  last 
available  inch,  and  I  was  thinking  sadly  what  a  good 
boat  this  used  to  be,  and  whether  my  friends  would  find 
me  before  dark,  he  stopped  again.  In  gratitude  for  this 
action  on  his  part  I  ought  to  have  cut  the  line  and  let 
him  go  ;  but  no,  my  blood  was  up,  and  I  determined  to 
conquer  at  all  hazards.  Carefully  drawing  the  gun 
toward  me,  I  opened  a  ragged  hole  in  the  top  of  his  skull 
in  such  short  metre  that  he  hadn't  time  to  tighten  up  on 
the  rope.  Then  after  resting  and  reloading,  I  attempted 
to  roll  him  into  the  boat.  This  time  he  was  as  dead  as 
it  is  possible  for  'gator  to  be,  I  knew  ;  but  when,  just  as 
I  had  him  poised  on  the  rail,  he  made  a  fearful  lunge 
and  came  down  in  the  boat  where  I  had  wanted  him,  I 
was  astonished.  I  was  so  astonished  that  I  immediately 
jumped  out  on  the  other  side,  where  the  water  was  leg- 
deep,  in  order  to  get  a  better  view.  When  I  had  looked 
at  him  to  my  satisfaction,  I  didn't  get  in.  Oh,  no. 
That  boat  was  only  built  for  one  ;  two  crowded.  Though 
his  head  seemed  as  inanimate  as  a  log  of  wood,  his  tail 
seemed  charged  with  concentrated  lightning.  A  little 
wriggle,  and  the  thwarts  would  fly  in  all  directions. 
A  short,  sharp  rap  and  the  boat  seemed  to  crack  from 
stem  to  stern.  If  a  dead  alligator  acted  thusly,  how 
would  one  in  the  "full  vigor  of  early  manhood"  act? 
I  began  to  fear  I  had  "missed  my  calling";  that 
alligator  shooting  was  not  my  forte.  The  more  I 


222  SHOOTING  AT  SALT  LAKE. 

thought  it  over,  the  stronger  was  my  conviction.  By 
rapid  calculation,  the  boat  would  go  to  pieces  in  just 
eighty  seconds.  Then  where,  oh,  where  would  I  be  ? 

It  was  half  a  mile  to  the  landing,  and  deep  creeks 
and  bays  intervening.  My  friends  were  all  hunting 
further  east.  Seeing  just  then  that  he  had  stopped 
wriggling,  I  ventured  to  get  into  the  boat.  I  have  an 
impression  that  I  didn't  make  much  noise  ;  and  I  also 
have  an  impression  that  I  made  that  half  a  mile  in  tol 
erably  quick  time,  and  the  perspiration  that  streamed 
down  my  face  wasn't  altogether  caused  by  the  heat. 

Gathering  my  birds  together,  I  returned  to  camp,  to 
find  my  friends  engaged  in  skinning  a  deer  they  had 
just  shot,  and  planning  an  excursion  to  a  neighboring 
lake  for  heron.  Notwithstanding  my  weariness,  after 
placing  a  pound  or  two  of  venison  and  slapjacks  where 
they  would  benefit  me  most,  I  was  ready,  and  launched 
upon  the  lake  just  as  the  sun  went  down.  Having  a 
trolling  spoon,  I  drew  forth  from  their  retreat  several 
broad-tailed  black  bass,  with  mouths  like  steel  traps  and 
possessed  of  the  strength  of  young  alligators.  After  an 
hour's  rowing  and  wading,  we  burst  through  the  cane- 
brake  and  emerged  into  a  little  lake,  upon  one  side  of 
which  was  a  long,  low,  willow  island,  from  which  scores 
of  herons  silently  flew  away.  Concealing  ourselves,  we 
waited.  Soon  they  came  ;  by  dozens  and  fifties  the  im 
maculate  and  glossy  plumaged  birds  approached.  Then 
the  firing  commenced,  and  continued  till  each  one  was 
satisfied  and  ready  to  return.  Emerging  from  the  canes, 
and  rowing  across  the  lake,  we  returned  to  camp  laden 
with  birds  nearly  as  large  as  ourselves.  In  the  soft 
moonlight  we  looked  strange  and  ghost-like,  with  our 
burdens  of  white.  Leaving  the  preparation  of  the  birds 


SHOOTING   AT  SALT  LAKE.  223 

i  ill  the  morrow,  we  kicked  together  the  embers,  arranged 
afresh  the  light-wood  knots,  and  soon  had  a  delicious 
aroma  of  coffee  and  venison  enveloping  us.  Then  to  our 
beds  of  pine  boughs,  to  sleep  as  only  tired  hunters  can. 
Such  was  a  representative  day  at  Salt  Lake  ;  one  of 
many  with  varied  scenes  and  incidents. 

FEED  BEVERLY. 


XXIV 

THE   OKEECHOBEE  EXPEDITION. 

"TTT~E  had  what  might  be  called  a  stormy  voyage. 
VV  The  very  night  that  saw  the  Virginius  in 
such  peril,  we  sighted  the  light  off  Frying-pan  Shoals- 
just  caught  a  glimpse  of  it,  only  to  be  driven  away  far 
east  of  the  Gulf  Stream.  Four  times  did  we  cross  the 
Gulf  Stream.  For  a  week  we  lay  to  under  double-reefed 
spanker  and  foresail,  drifting  with  the  waves.  Dolphins 
and  porpoises,  Gulf  weed,  and  Portuguese  men-o'-war 
swam  and  drifted  in  the  water  near  us,  but  they  failed 
to  excite  the  interest  they  ought,  for  the  reason  that  the 
objects  we  sought  on  the  shores  of  Florida  were  far 
away.  The  New  Year  brought  a  blessing,  for  upon 
that  day  we  first  descried  the  long,  low  line  far  in  the 
distance  that  told  us  of  the  land  we  sought.  The  next 
day  the  palms  appeared  above  the  horizon,  but  it  was 
sunset  ere  we  were  boarded  by  the  pilots  and  were 
threading  the  tortuous  windings  of  the  channel,  in  tow 
of  the  little  steamer  belonging  to  the  port. 

Mosquito  Inlet,  our  destination,  is  in  about  lat.  29°, 
long.  81°,  fifty-five  miles  south  of  St.  Augustine,  and  one- 
third  the  way  down  the  Florida  coast.  It  is  about  a 
mile  in  width,  with  two  channels,  obstructed  by  sand 
bars,  having  a  depth  of  seven  to  nine  feet.  It  is  the  out- 
watering  of  two  large  lagoons,  the  Mosquito  North,  or 


THE   OKEECHOBEE   EXPEDITION.  225 

Halifax  river,  and  the  Mosquito  South,  or  Hillsboro' 
river.  Thirty  miles  each  extends,  meeting  in  a  common 
channel  at  the  inlet.  Close  in  is  Massacre  Bluff,  with 
its  tragical  history  of  the  murder  of  shipwrecked  sailors 
by  Indians,  early  in  the  Indian  war.  Two  miles  further 
is  Mount  Pleasant,  a  high  shell  bluff,  upon  which  is  the 
residence  of  Major  Alden,  a  Massachusetts  man,  whose 
hospitality  many  have  shared.  A  mile  further  is  Lowd's 
Hotel,  the  only  one  here,  and  one  of  the  three  houses 
constituting  the  town  of  New  Smyrna.  This  place  is 
about  thirty  miles  from  the  St.  Johns,  at  Enterprise,  the 
road  to  which  fully  maintains  the  reputation  of  Florida 
roads  generally.  Though  to  a  stranger  the  hotel  at 
New  Smyrna  may  present  few  attractions,  being  fronted 
by  a  muddy  creek  and  backed  by  a  dense  forest,  it  is 
filled  to  overflowing  every  winter,  the  same  boarders 
forming  its  quota  each  succeeding  season.  The  mystery 
is  partly  explained  when  one  has  enjoyed  its  hospitali 
ties.  Probably  the  superb  fishing  of  Mosquito  Inlet  has 
much  to  do  toward  maintaining  its  popularity  as  a 
winter  resort.  There  is  the  usual  variety  of  game  found 
on  the  Florida  coast.  The  narrow  peninsulas,  both 
north  and  south  of  the  inlet,  are  well  stocked  with  deer 
and  bear,  and  many  panthers  and  wild-cats  find  refuge 
there.  The  woods  back  of  the  hotel,  between  New 
Smyrna  and  Enterprise,  are  tolerably  well  filled  with 
deer,  though  it  is  said  the  panthers  have  driven  away 
the  turkeys.  At  the  inlet  are  large  flocks  of  curlew, 
bay  snipe,  "peep,"  shearwaters  and  plover,  affording 
excellent  sport  to  the  juvenile  gunners  at  the  hotel. 
But  by  far  the  best  section  for  procuring  large  game  is 
the  immense  Turnbull  swamp,  near  the  head  of  Indian 
river,  abounding  in  deer,  turkeys,  panther,  and  bear. 
10* 


226  THE   OKEECHOBEE   EXPEDITION. 

Any  old  field  will  furnish  its  bevy  of  quail.  Besides  the 
means  of  communication  with  Jacksonville,  via  St. 
Johns,  "costing  about  fifteen  dollars,  there  is  a  small 
schooner  which  makes  the  trip  as  often  as  the  wind  will 
permit ;  fare  five  dollars.  The  only  business  of  New 
Smyrna  is  in  live-oak,  which,  in  the  hands  of  one  firm, 
employs  many  schooners  the  winter  through.  On  both 
lagoons  are  large  groves  of  delicious  oranges,  noted 
for  their  size  and  flavor.  The  guava,  pomegranate,  fig, 
and  banana  will  flourish  here,  and  have  been  success 
fully  grown. 

There  are  several  good  guides  here,  and  they  can  be 
hired  at  the  usual  rates  by  addressing,  at  New  Smyrna, 
Volusia  county,  M.  Lewis,  Dr.  Fox,  or  Frank  Grains. 
The  best  location  for  building  or  camping  is  at  Mount 
Pleasant,  where  the  channel  runs  close  by  the  wharf, 
with  sixteen  feet  of  water.  We  camped  there  upon  its 
shelly  shore,  and  passed  two  pleasant  weeks.  The 
weather  was  unusually  cold,  even  closing  the  jaws,  if 
they  have  jaws,  of  the  blood-thirsty  mosquito  for  a  time, 
and  causing  that  omnipresent  oldest  inhabitant  to  declare 
that  no  such  had  occurred  before  since  the  great  frost  of 
'35.  Yet  we  would  have  days  delicious  in  their  dreamy 
warmth,  when  the  air  of  a  morning  would  be  full  of  the 
music  of  robin  and  red-bird.  "  We,"  comprehends  my 
self  and  a  young  man,  a  friend,  of  my  own  age,  who  was 
to  accompany  me  upon  my  boat  excursions,  and  remain 
at  camp  while  I  was  absent  upon  my  explorations  inland. 
We  then  had  a  tent  that  had  done  service  on  the  St. 
Johns,  which  I  had  brought  more  for  the  good  it  had 
done  that  from  any  love  I  bore  it.  It  was  called  the 
"  lawn  tent,"  and  resembled  the  tents  figured  as  belong 
ing  to  the  children  of  Israel.  It  was  well  adapted  to  the 


THE   OKEECHOBEE   EXPEDITION.  227 

covering  of  a  large  surface,  but  in  a  "norther"  we  had 
to  get  out  guys  in  every  direction,  and  then  stand  out 
side  and  hang  on,  while  the  winds  howled  and  floods 
descended.  We  had  two  boats.  I  had  named  the  larger 
the  Forest  and  Stream,  though  I  quaked  inwardly 
whenever  I  happened  to  think,  What  if  the  proprietors 
of  that  paper  should  see  her  ?  I  had  her  built  to  carry 
a  heavy  load  in  shallow  water,  and  told  her  builder  to 
sacrifice  everything  else  to  strength  and  lightness — and 
he  did.  She  was  twenty-one  feet  long  by  seven  feet  beam 
amidships,  flat  bottom,  centre-board,  rigged  with  two 
small  sails.  I  had  always  stood  in  awe  of  her,  and  was 
much  relieved  when  after  she  had  lain  idle  nearly  two 
weeks,  a  rash  sailor  asked  me  if  he  could  sail  her,  and 
when  he  came  back  and  said  she  worked  splendidly,  I 
could  have  embraced  him.  When  the  boat  was  loaded 
with  our  freight  I  saw  the  wisdom  of  my  instructions  to 
the  builder,  for  she  was  full  to  overflowing.  And  so, 
one  pleasant  day  we  started  down  the  Hillsboro',  laden 
almost  to  the  water's  edge.  We  were  fortunate  in  get 
ting  a  tow  down  the  river  for  nearly  twenty  miles. 

The  Hillsboro',  for  twenty  miles,  is  filled  with  man 
grove  and  marshy  islands,  making  many  exceedingly  tor 
tuous  channels  difficult  to  follow.  Shipyard  Reach, 
fifteen  miles  south  of  Smyrna,  is  a  noted  place  for  ducks ; 
but  the  best  of  all  grounds  is  a  little  below  on  the  west 
channel,  where  they  come  to  a  little  pool  to  drink  all  day 
long.  Parties  have  been  here  and  shot  a  hundred  to  the 
man  in  half  a  day's  shooting.  Bissett's  orange  mound 
is  a  favorite  place ;  here  the  wild  oranges  glow  and 
gleam  through  the  dark  foliage,  covering  a  shell  mound, 
at  whose  base  is  a  drinking  pool  where  the  ducks  flock 
by  scores.  October  and  November  are  the  best  months, 


228  THE   OKEECIIOBEE   EXPEDITION. 

and  again  in  March,  the  interim  being  spent  by  the 
greater  part  of  the  mass  of  ducks  wintering  in  Florida 
further  south. 

From  Xew  Smyrna  south  occur  a  great  many  shell 
and  earth  mounds  of  ancient  origin,  several  of  which  I 
have  explored,  and  the  results  of  which  explorations  I 
shall  publish  in  a  future  letter. 

The  Mosquito  lagoon  commences  at  the  Devil's 
Elbow,  a  channel  of  the  Hillsboro'  where  there  are  nine 
crooks  in  half  a  mile.  We  passed  safely  through  the 
Devil's  Elbow,  and  arrived  at  the  head -quarters  of  the 
Swifts,  proprietors  of  the  live-oak  interest  here.  From 
Captain  Swift  and  his  employees  we  have  received  the 
kindest  attention.  Mosquito  lagoon  is  here  two  miles  in 
breadth  and  ten  miles  to  the  canal  connecting  this  lagoon 
system  with  Indian  river.  There  are  several  orange 
groves  on  this  lagoon,  both  wild  and  cultivated.  AVe 
entered  the  canal  about  noon  one  day,  passing  the  first 
stake  half  a  mile  north,  and  standing  away  south-east  till 
opposite  the  canal.  The  eastern  end  is  invisible  till  di 
rectly  at  its  mouth,  owing  to  bushes  and  sand-bars.  The 
canal  is  about  half  a  mile  long  and  twelve  feet  wide. 
Connecting  the  Indian  river  lagoon  with  the  Mosquito, 
it  forms  with  them  an  inside  route  of  water  travel  over 
one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  in  length.  The  water  was 
at  the  highest  when  we  entered,  yet  we  barely  passed 
through,  drawing  but  a  foot.  Fallen  coquina  has  nar 
rowed  the  passage  to  seven  feet  in  some  places.  The 
coquina  is  curiously  hollowed  by  the  water,  leaving  over 
hanging  arches  supported  by  pillars  fantastically  wrought. 
The  kingfisher  has  driven  his  shafts  into  the  rock,  and 
then  occupied  them.  A  large  tree,  with  table-shaped 
top,  stands  near  the  eastern  end,  and  can  be  seen  a, 


THE   OKEECIIOBEE   EXPEDITION.  229 

long  way,  forming  a  conspicuous  land-mark.  There  is 
good  camping  ground  near  here,  and  an  abundance  of 
fish  and  ducks  close  by.  Deer  and  bear  range  the  ham 
mocks  north.  We  camped  that  night  at  Andrew  Jack 
son's.  Andrew  has  the  neatest  little  orange  grove  on 
the  river.  Close  by,  two  miles,  is  the  famous  Dummitt 
orange  grove,  so  often  described.  Captain  Dummitt, 
the  original  owner  of  this  grove,  died  a  year  ago.  He  was 
an  old  resident,  and  highly  respected.  The  grove  is  now 
owned  by  his  three  daughters  and  two  others.  This 
year's  crop  is  estimated  at  125,000,  fully  as  many  having 
been  blown  off  in  a  tremendous  gale  last  autumn.  Two 
smaller  groves  near  here  have,  respectively,  four  and 
eight  thousand.  It  is  about  sixteen  miles  from  the  canal 
to  the  head  of  the  river,  and  ten  miles  to  Sand  Point, 
upon  the  west  bank  of  the  river.  The  buildings  of 
Aurantia  Grove,  so  much  advertised,  can  be  seen  about 
seven  miles  up  the  river.  I  had  no  time  to  visit  it, 
and  so  cannot  speak  of  its  merits  from  observation. 
The  land  is  said  to  be  good,  worth  $1.25  per  acre. 
Indian  river  needs  for  its  proper  development  a  railroad 
to  Lake  Harney,  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  St.  Johns, 
or  a  new  canal  to  Mosquito  lagoon,  with  light-draught 
steamers  plying  between  Jacksonville  and  the  lagoon. 
The  railroad  is  the  more  feasible  route,  perfectly  practi 
cable,  and  would  probably  pay.  The  distance  to  be  trav 
ersed  is  said  to  be  but  thirteen  miles.  A  small  steamer 
is  needed  upon  the  river,  and  three  good  hotels — one 
at  the  head  of  the  river  or  lagoon,  one  midway,  and 
one  near  the  southern  end.  Then  this  delightful  climate 
might  be  enjoyed  by  the  thousands  now  kept  away  by 
the  difficulties  attending  transportation  and  lack  of 


230  THE   OKEECHOBEE   EXPEDITION. 

accommodations.     The  present  route,  via  Salt  Lake,  is 
very  tedious,  and  uncomfortably  long. 

We  crossed  the  river  one  night  after  waiting  two  days 
for  a  wind.  The  water  was  all  aglow  with  phospho 
rescent  light.  Every  dash  of  our  little  boat  raised  a 
silver  shower,  and  thousands  of  fish  darted  hither  and 
thither,  leaving  tortuous  trails  of  fire,  like  those  Fourth 
of  July  serpents  of  our  boyhood.  Rafts  of  ducks 
sprang  up  with  noise  like  thunder,  invisible  but  for  the 
fiery  shower  they  raised  upon  leaving  the  water.  It  was 
midnight  before  we  reached  Harvey's,  and  anchored.  It 
is  six  miles  across  to  Salt  Lake.  There  is  a  settlement  a 
mile  from  the  river,  where  also  is  a  small  boarding  house. 
There  is  but  one  building  at  the  landing,  a  store.  Here, 
for  the  first  time,  the  visitor  from  the  North  sees  the 
palmetto,  in  the  long  columnar  rows,  so  characteristic 
of  the  Indian  river.  Two  days  we  passed  here  and  at 
Titusville,  two  miles  below,  awaiting  a  fair  wind.  The 
hotel  at  the  latter  place  is  the  only  one  on  the  river,  and 
is  said  to  be  well  kept ;  £3  per  day  is  charged  for  tran 
sient  boarders.  Board  at  the  settlement  is  SI. 50  per  day. 
This  is  the  northernmost  of  the  four  post-offices  on  the 
river.  A  mail  is  supposed  to  arrive  and  depart  once  a 
week,  but  it  really  arrives  and  leaves  with  the  wind. 
Very  fine  specimens  of  native  woods  may  be  procured 
here,  such  as  the  crabwood,  royal  palm,  mangrove,  pal 
metto,  and  iron  wood,  made  into  canes,  etc.  Titusville 
owes  all  of  its  present  prosperity  to  the  indefatigable  en 
ergy  of  its  proprietor,  Colonel  II.  T.  Titus.  This  place 
is  only  noteworthy  as  a  point  of  the  arrival  and  depar 
ture  for  more  interesting  points  on  the  river.  For  ducks 
one  must  go  across  the  river  to  Dummitt's,  ten  miles, 
or  to  Banana  creek,  still  further.  For  deer,  to  Mer- 


THE   OKEECIIOBEE   EXPEDITION.  231 

ritt's  Island,  or  to  the  prairies  bordering  Salt  or  South 
lakes.  Boatmen  and  guides  can  be  hired  to  any  point 
on  the  lagoon  and  interior.  James  Stewart,  captain 
of  the  Blonde,  is  perfectly  trustworthy  and  reliable. 
Jim  Russell  is  thoroughly  posted  upon  the  game  and 
fish  of  Indian  river,  and  will  be  found  of  great  value 
to  any  party  contemplating  a  winter's  camp  here.  Ad 
dress  them  at  Sandy  Point,  which  is  the  old  name  for 
Titusville. 

I  visited  some  old  acquaintances  here,  and  walked 
over  to  the  store  of  a  man  named  Joyners.  I  was  much 
surprised  to  find  him  apparently  overjoyed  to  meet  me, 
the  more  so  as  we  had  met  but  once.  My  heart 
warmed  as  he  poured  forth  congratulation  and  welcome, 
and  I  thought  here  was  one  true  friend,  if  he  did  have  a 
suspicious  squint  in  one  eye  and  never  once  looked  me 
square  in  the  face.  What  was  my  disgust  to  find,  upon 
returning  to  the  boat,  that  he  had  despatched  a  "jus 
tice  "  to  arrest  me  for  an  alleged  violation  of  the  license 
law,  in  giving  a  man,  whom  I  had  hired,  an  old  coat. 
A  friend  told  the  justice  he  thought  he'd  better  not 
trouble  me,  and  the  justice  departed,  saying  he  "  thought 
so  too."  We  left  Titusville  at  daybreak  one  morning. 
The  wind  gradually  increased,  till  at  noon  it  was  blowing 
half  a  gale,  and  we  were  very  glad  to  seek  shelter  behind 
Oleander  Point,  about  twenty-five  miles  from  Sand 
Point.  A  gale  is  the  specialty  in  which  Indian  river 
excels ;  either  a  gale  or  a  calm.  But  then  this  is  a 
stormy  winter,  though  it  is  hard  to  realize  it  with  the 
thermometer  at  shirt-sleeve  temperature.  Oleander  Point 
is  formed  of  disintegrated  shells,  white  as  snow,  the 
beach  ending  in  a  crescent-shaped  bar.  South  of  this 
beach  is  a  coquina  formation,  extending  for  miles,  where 


232  THE   OKEECIIOBEE   EXPEDITION. 

the  rocks  arc  worn  into  every  shape  imaginable.  A  Mr. 
Hardee  lives  here,  whose  grove  of  three-year-old  trees  is 
the  finest;  I  have  seen,  lie  has  splendid  oranges,  from 
trees  only  three  years  from  the  bud.  His  crop  brought 
a  dollar  per  hundred  more  in  Savannah  than  the  St. 
Johns  oranges. 

We  slept  upon  the  beach  that  night,  beneath  a  lean- 
to  tent  which  my  friend,  who  is  an  old  camper-out,  had 
put  up  between  two  palmettoes.  The  cheerful  blaze  in 
front  made  it  far  preferable  to  our  close  quarters  aboard 
the  boat.  The  next  afternoon,  the  wind  abating,  we  set 
sail,  and  at  night,  the  wind  increasing,  made  a  camp  on 
the  shores  of  Horse  creek.  This  is  a  high  coquina  bluff 
of  pine  land,  a  line  place  for  camp  or  residence.  Nearly 
opposite  is  the  southern  end  of  Mcrritt's  Island,  whose 
high,  pine-covered  shores  have  been  in  sight  for  the  last 
twenty-five  miles.  Just  south  of  here,  three  miles,  is 
Elbow  creek,  which  was  to  be  the  terminus  of  a  canal  to 
connect  Indian  river  with  Lake  Washington,  on  the  St. 
Johns.  The  scheme  is  now  "  busted,"  and  Indian  river 
will  have  to  seek  connection  with  the  outside  world  else 
where.  At  Turkey  creek,  fifteen  miles  south,  is  a  fine 
orange  and  banana  grove,  where  huge  bunches  of  the 
latter  fruit  can  be  purchased  at  $1  per  hundred.  St. 
Sebastian  is  twelve  miles  from  Turkey  'creek.  It  is  a 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  and  the  camper-out  will  find 
here  secure  shelter  during  gales.  From  Horse  creek  we 
were  assisted  by  that  veteran  guide  and  boatman,  Jim 
Russell.  What  Jim  don't  know  about  Indian  river  is  not 
worth  knowing.  He  has  spent  twenty  years  here,  and 
can  tell  to  a  certainty  just  where  and  when  the  rarest 
birds  are  to  be  found,  where  to  go  for  deer,  bear,  or 
panther.  Jirn.  then,  took  us  in  charge,  and  kept  us 


THE   OKEECHOBEE   EXPEDITION.  233 

through,  the  Narrows,  with  a  dim  vision  of  Pelican 
Island  north  of  the  entrance  ;  by  Indian  Eiver  Inlet,  old 
Tort  Capron,  and  anchored  us  at  two  o'clock  one  morn 
ing  just  as  the  moon  sank  out  of  sight,  at  Fort  Pierce. 
Here  we  made  our  final  camp,  one  hundred  and  thirty 
miles  south  of  our  starting  point  at  New  Smyrna. 

Fort  Pierce  is  the  name  given  to  this  place  during 
the  Indian  war,  when  there  was  a  military  station  here. 
Here  it  was,  according  to  history,  that  the  famous  chief 
tain,  Wild  Cat,  Coacoochee,  was  captured  and  sent  west. 
The  old  parade  ground,  made  over  thirty  years  ago,  is 
still  in  good  condition,  south  of  the  present  site  of  Fort 
Pierce,  or  "  St.  Lucie."  The  best  turtling  and  oyster 
grounds  are  here,  and  splendid  fishing  at  the  inlet,  three 
miles  east.  There  is  a  party  of  gentlemen  camped  just 
north  of  here.  They  are  enthusiastic  sportsmen,  and  have 
been  fishing  Jupiter  Inlet  and  Indian  River  Inlet  with 
flies.  Their  success  was  wonderful.  They  tell  me  that 
they  caught  crevalle,  bone-fish,  and  blue-fish  ;  the  bone- 
fish  and  crevalle  making  hard  fight  and  splendid  sport. 

I  have  photographed  the  most  noteworthy  and  pictur 
esque  features  of  Indian  river  and  Mosquito  lagoon, 
and  the  negatives  are  carefully  preserved  for  future 
manipulation.  Within  the  week  that  has  elasped  since 
my  arrival,  I  have  thoroughly  explored  the  country 
between  the  river  and  the  cypress  bordering  Lake 
Okeechobee,  walking  and  riding  one  hundred  miles  in 
four  days,  over,  or  rather  through,  a  submerged  tract  of 
country,  visiting  my  old  friends  the  Indians,  and 
discovering  new  facts.  In  closing,  I  will  recapitulate  the 
different  camping  grounds  and  haunts  of  game,  promis 
ing  a  better  list  in  some  future  number. 

For  fish,  go  to  New  Smyrna,  Indian  River  Inlet,  or 


234  THE   OKEECIIOBEE   EXPEDITION. 

Jupiter.  For  cluck,  Mosquito  lagoou  and  Ilillsboro',  at 
the  places  already  mentioned  ;  the  marshes  between  Black 
Point  and  the  canal ;  at  Dummitt's,  Pelican  Island,  near 
the  Narrows,  and  St.  Lucie  Sound.  Ten-mile  creek,  ten 
miles  back  of  Fort  Pierce,  also  abounds  in  teal  and  wood 
duck.  For  deer  and  bear,  TurnbulFs  Hammock,  near 
New  Smyrna ;  Merritt's  Island,  and  the  beach  ridge 
three  miles  from  the  southern  end  ;  the  Narrows  ;  St. 
John's  Prairie,  five  miles  west  of  C apron,  and  beyond. 
For  turkey,  St.  John's  Prairie  and  about  St.  Lucie 
Sound.  There  are  good  camping  sites  at  Indian  River 
canal,  Jones'  Point,  Addison  Point,  Horse  creek,  Turkey 
creek,  Merritt's  Island,  south  end,  St.  Sebastian,  Bar 
ker's  Bluff,  Fort  Capron,  Fort  Pierce,  and  at  various 
points  along  St.  Lucie  Sound.  Water  may  be  procured 
almost  anywhere  by  digging  a  shallow  pit  in  the  sand. 
For  other  information  upon  Indian  river  I  refer  the 
reader  to  my  article  previously  written.  A  party  of 
four  could  enjoy  the  pleasures  of  sporting  here  to  best 
advantage.  Let  them  come  as  I  have,  with  everything 
necessary  for  the  winter,  prepared  to  "  rough  it,"  if  need 
be,  and  my  word  for  it  they  will  depart  with  a  desire  to 
come  again.  A  friend  of  mine  purposes  erecting  a  com 
modious  hotel  near  St.  Lucie,  where  everything  needful 
to  the  perfect  enjoyment  of  this  region  of  game  and 
health  will  be  at  command.  The  guides  to  Indian  river 
are  few,  but  I  can  recommend  James  Stewart,  Charles 
Stewart,  John  Houston,  Eufus  Stewart,  and  Burton 
Williams. 

It  is  a  fact  beyond  doubt  that  the  whooping  crane 
(Grus  Americanus)  is  a  resident  of  Florida.  There  has 
been  seen  for  many  years,  upon  Alligator  Flats,  about 
twenty  miles  from  Fort  Capron,  Indian  river,  a  largo 


THE   OKEECHOBEE   EXPEDITION.  235 

white  bird,  "as  tall  as  a  man,"  which  the  native  Flori- 
dans  called  a  "  stork."  Last  year  the  young  of  this  bird 
was  taken  from  a  nest  and  brought  to  Fort  Capron, 
•where  it  was  kept  till  over  six  months  old.  The  plu 
mage  of  this  bird  was  white  from  the  first.  It  was  a 
whooping  crane,  if  the  description  of  its  possessors  was 
correct,  as  it  agreed  exactly  in  specific  characteristics 
with  the  description  of  the  whooping  crane.  For  many 
years  these  birds  have  roamed  over  the  Alligator  Flats, 
and  about  the  prairies  of  the  headwaters  of  the  St. 
Johns.  Their  large  size  and  loud  cry  have  always  made 
them  conspicuous,  and  the  "cow  hunters  "  of  the  back 
woods,  not  knowing  any  other  bird  so  large,  have  given 
them  the  name  of  "  stork."  The  sand-hill  crane  is  very 
plentiful  here,  and  there  is  no  cause  for  the  belief  that 
the  two  species  are  confounded.  The  great  white  heron, 
the  (Audubonia  Occident  alls),  is  the  only  other  bird 
approaching  the  whooping  crane  in  size,  and  likely  to  be 
mistaken  by  ignorant  people  for  it,  and  the  supposition 
that  it  may  be  this  species  is  precluded  by  the  habits  and 
habitat  of  that  bird.  We  think  this  the  first  recorded 
instance  of  the  discovery  of  this  species  in  Florida, 
though  we  may  be  mistaken. 

The  Everglade  kite  (Rostrhamus  sociabilis)  has  been 
shot  upon  the  St.  Johns  prairies  by  your  correspondent, 
and  he  believes  that  he  will  find  the  eggs  of  that  bird 
this  season.  The  specimens  procured  were  in  the  adult 
and  young  plumage. 

Authentic  information  of  the  discovery  of  the  eggs 
of  the  paroquet  (Conurus  CaroUnensis),  has  been  ob 
tained,  and  it  is  confidently  expected  that  they  will  be 
secured  the  coming  season. 

Indian  river  in  April  is  as  beautiful,  its  skies  as 


236  THE   OKEECHOBEE   EXPEDITION". 

serene,,  and  its  waters  as  untroubled  as  in  January  ;  but 
Indian  river  in  April  is  not  the  river  it  was  in  January, 
for  all  that.  Its  visitors  from  the  North,,  the  Yankees, 
have  departed — and  its  visitors  from  the  South,  the 
insects,  have  arrived.  The  temperature  in  April  does 
not  vary  much  from  that  of  March ;  the  mornings  are 
deliciously  cool,  and  the  afternoons — well,  they  are 
warm.  Sixty-five  in  the  morning  at  sunrise  ;  ninety  at 
noon  ;  a  breeze  from  the  south  all  day,  and  a  gale  from 
the  west  all  night. 

When  I  had  returned  to  St.  Lucie  from  Okeechobee, 
my  friend  at  head-quarters  wanted  to  leave  ;  and  it  was 
only  to  allow  me  a  flying  trip  to  the  Seminole  town  that 
he  would  remain.  The  reasons  he  urged  for  departing 
were  "insects."  Fleas  and  mosquitoes  might  have  their 
uses,  might  be  a  blesssing  to  mankind,  but  too  many 
fleas  and  a  superabundance  of  mosquitoes  were  worse 
than  none  at  all  ;  and  so  long  as  that  grind-stone  was 
left  out  of  doors  for  them  to  sharpen  their  bills  on,  so 
long  was  life  a  burden  to  him.  And  so  we  sailed  away 
from  St.  Lucie.  A  few  miles  from  St.  Lucie  is  Indian 
River  Inlet,  where  the  fishing  is  superb  and  the  mos 
quitoes  abundant.  We  went  over  to  the  inlet  one  day, 
with  my  old  guide  Jim  to  assist  us.  The  memory  of 
that  day's  sport  will  not  soon  fade  away — bass,  sheeps- 
head,  crevalle — all  bit  well,  and  fully  sustained  the  repu 
tation  accorded  this  inlet  as  the  best  fishing  ground  on 
the  coast.  Jim  had  been  hunting  in  the  scrub  along  the 
sand  ridge,  and  returned  to  the  boat  as  I  hauled  in  my 
last  fish,  bloody  and  torn.  There  was  blood  on  his  face, 
blood  on  his  hands,  hair  and  rifle.  His  shirt  and  pants 
were  torn  and  likewise  bloody.  In  reply  to  my  questions 
he  remarked  in  a  careless  way  that  he  had  run  a-foul  of 


THE    OKEECIIOBEE   EXPEDITION.  237 

a  catamount,  and  that  "the  beast  had  showed  fight." 
When  I  requested  him.  to  bring  along  his  catamount,  he 
said  it  was  out  there  in  the  sand,  and  that  if  I  wanted  it 
I  might  get  it.  Though  I  had  doubts  of  the  existence 
of  said  catamount,  I  went  as  directed,  and  did  actually 
find  one,  a  beautiful  creature,  about  four  feet  in  length, 
curiously  spotted  and  striped,  and  with  tufted  ears. 
Jim  had  discovered  four  of  them,  had  wounded  one  and 
then  captured  him.  It  was  just  here  that  I  was  camped 
one  night  two  years  ago.  Jim  was  with  me,  and  per 
formed  a  feat  that  many  men  would  shrink  from. 

The  captain  of  a  little  schooner  had  got  his  anchor 
caught  beneath  a  sunken  mangrove  and  was  going  to  cut 
his  cable  and  leave  it,  when  Jim  volunteered  to  dive  for 
and  get  it  up.  The  water  was  alive  with  sharks — this 
place  is  noted  for  them — and  the  anchor  was  twenty  feet 
under  water ;  but  Jim,  after  giving  me  instructions  in 
case  he  was  attacked,  dived  repeatedly,  with  the  sharks 
swarming  about  our  little  boat,  and  a  rapid  current 
running,  till  he  had  accomplished  his  purpose.  Oppo 
site  the  inlet,  two  miles,  is  the  residence  of  Judge  Paine, 
where  board  and  lodging  can  be  obtained,  I  presume,  as 
the  Judge  has  a  snug  little  house,  with  two  rooms 
and  beds.  He  also  has  a  noble  pack  of  hounds,  which 
do  duty  at  the  gate.  They  are  very  affectionate,  these 
hounds  are,  and  one  of  them  formed  an  almost  insepara 
ble  attachment  for  the  calf  of  my  leg  one  day  as  I  went 
there  for  my  mail. 

The  hunting  here  is  not  so  good  as  the  fishing, 
though  deer  may  be  obtained  in  the  scrub  and  pine 
woods,  and  quail  at  the  old  Russell  plantation.  Fire 
hunting  is  the  mode  usually  adopted  for  shooting  deer 
and  other  animals.  That  is,  fire  hunting  was  the 


2'3S  THE   OKEECIIOBEE   EXPEDITION. 

method.  The  principal  charm  of  fire  hunting  lies  in 
the  uncertainty  attending  it,  as  to  what  you  may  kill. 
A  man  goes  out,  horseback  or  a-foot,  with  a  pole  over 
his  shoulder,  lashed  to  the  end  of  which  is  an  old  frying- 
pan,  in  which  is  a  fire  of  light-wood.  The  blaze  throws 
a  lane  of  light  ahead  of  him,  leaving  him  in  darkness. 
The  eye  of  a  deer  reflects  that  light,  so  that  all  the 
bearer  of  the  frying-pan  lias  to  do  is  to  " blaze  away"  at 
the  eye.  There  is  a  deal  of  sport  in  this  style  of  hunt 
ing.  I  remember  a  night's  experience  at  South  Lake, 
where  I  followed  my  guide  about  all  night  looking  for 
eyes.  We  didn't  see  any  eyes,  but  we  had  glorious  sport. 
My  part  of  it  was  to  carry  a  bag  of  pine  knots,  and  when 
my  guide  lowered  the  pan  to  replenish  the  fire  with  a 
knot.  'Twas  fine  sport,  but  grew  to  be  a  trifle  monot 
onous  toward  morning.  As  I  said  before,  in  the  uncer 
tainty  of  fire  hunting  lies  its  chief  attraction.  Other 
eyes  than  deer's  will  reflect  the  light,  and  the  bearer  of 
the  pan — the  messenger  of  light  we  may  call  him— 
doesn't  know  just  what  particular  eye  he  may  "shine" 
at  any  particular  moment.  It  may  be  the  eye  of  an  ox, 
or  a  bear,  or  a  panther.  In  case  it  is  the  latter,  the 
usual  way — if  the  "  shiner  "  is  convinced  the  sJiinee  is  a 
panther — is  to  deposit  the  rifle  and  pan  on  the  ground 
and  climb  a  tree.  Fire  hunting,  then,  has  its  votaries  all 
along  the  river.  There  is  one  gentleman  near  Fort 
Capron  always  successful.  lie  never  goes  out  without 
returning  with  some  trophy  of  his  skill.  A  few  nights 
before  I  left  he  bagged  a  fine  mare  and  colt,  and  was 
convinced  that  if  he'd  kept  on  he'd  have  killed  a  deer. 

The  inlet  is  the  place  where  "  B.  Hackle  "  and  his 
friends — thorough  sportsmen,  all  oL'  them — had  their 
finest  sport,  here  and  at  Jupiter.  The  Narrows  is  as 


THE    OKEECIIOBEE    EXPEDITION.  239 

good  a  place  for  deer  as  any  on  the  river.  As  I  was 
sailing  through  them  one  moonlight  night,  I  was 
awakened  by  my  boatman,  and  looking  up,  discovered  a 
deer  swimming  across  close  to  the  boat.  Eevolver,  rifle, 
everything  had  been  packed  away,  and  we  lost  him. 
Right  here  in  the  Narrows,  one  of  my  acquaintances  dis 
covered  a  bear  swimming,  and  undertook  his  capture. 
As  he  had  nothing  but  a  hatchet,  and  a  heavy  breeze 
was  blowing,  he  was  forced  to  relinquish  the  bear  after 
laying  its  head  open,  and  Bruin  had  nearly  upset  the 
boat  by  getting  his  paws  on  the  rail. 

At  Elbow  creek,  and  across  the  river  on  the  eastern 
shore,  is  the  finest  picturesque  portion  of  the  river.  The 
little  bay,  formed  as  the  creek  reaches  Indian  river,  is 
almost  shut  in  by  high  coquina  rocks.  The  shores  are 
sandy,  with  high  bluffs  behind  them.  The  water-worn 
coquina  rock  here  is  the  most  attractive  on  the  river. 
It  was  here  that  the  famous  canal,  to  connect  the  St. 
Johns  with  Indian  river,  was  to  terminate.  It  was  to  be 
about  seven  miles  in  length.  A  company  was  formed,  a 
dredge-boat  set  to  work  at  Lake  Washington,  lands  pur 
chased,  a  town  laid  out  on  paper,  a*nd  now  the  machin 
ery  of  the  boat  is  being  transported  to  Sand  Point  for 
use  in  a  saw-mill,  and  "Eau  Gallie  "  has  just  as  many 
inhabitants  as  it  had  before  the  bubble  was  blown.  No 
doubt  can  exist  as  to  the  suitability  of  the  locality  for  a 
town,  could  one  be  started  ;  for  the  high  pine  land 
slopes  gradually  to  the  river,  the  climate  is  delightful, 
and  annoying  insects  comparatively  few. 

Mr.  Houston,  the  resident  at  Elbow  creek,  is  an  old 
Indian  fighter,  having  served  through  the  seven  years  of 
the  first  war.  His  reminiscences  were  interesting,  espe 
cially  to  me,  as  he  had  fought  Indians  I  had  met  at  the 


240  TIIE    OKEECIIOBEE    EXPEDITION. 

Seminole  town  and  while  hunting,  and  fought  at  locali 
ties  I  had  recently  visited.  A  wedged-sliaped  coquina 
rock  terminates  Merritt's  Island,  two  miles  east  of  Elbow 
creek.  The  rocky  shores  here  arc  worn  into  innumer 
able  caverns,  their  roofs  supported  by  water-wrought 
pillars  and  groined  arches.  The  island  comes  down  to 
this  point,  ever  narrowing,  till  it  terminates  a  mile  north 
of  a  palm-crowned  point  upon  the  eastern  shore.  A 
deep  bay  is  formed,  crescent  shaped,  covered  with  dainty 
shells.  Bordering  this  bay  is  a  high  shell  bluff,  covered 
with  wild  orange  trees.  Back  of  this  bluff  is  an  ancient 
earth  mound,  from  which  leads  an  elevated  road- way, 
sixty  feet  in  width,  to  the  sea-beach  a  mile  away. 

Now,  this  place,  in  my  belief,  has  a  share  in  the 
tragical  history  attending  the  early  settlement  of  Florida 
by  the  Spaniards.  When  Eibaut  was  wrecked  on  this 
coast,  and  fell  into  the  hands  of  Menendez  in  15G5,  a  part 
of  his  force,  some  200,  escaped  down  the  coast.  Soon 
intelligence  came  to  the  Spaniards  that  the  French  were 
fortifying  themselves  and  building  a  vessel  south  of 
Cape  Canaveral.  A  force  was  despatched,  which  cap 
tured  the  greater  part  of  the  French  troops,  burned  their 
vessel  and  destroyed  their  fort.  The  Spaniards  then 
built  another  fort,  which  they  called  St.  Lucie,  and 
garrisoned  it.  From  many  proofs,  I  adduce  the  opinion 
that  this  is  the  site — this  bluff  or  earth  mound — of  that 
Spanish  fort.  The  road,  from  sea-beach  to  river,  straight 
and  wide,  was  probably  made  by  the  builders  of  the 
mound  many  years  before  the  Spanish  conquest,  but  it 
doubtless  was  in  condition  then  to  offer  many  advantages, 
and  not,  as  now,  overgrown  with  scrub  and  palmetto.  I 
am  not  aware  that  the  fact  of  the  existence  of  this  old 
road  has  ever  been  mentioned  before — at  least  in  this 


THE   OKEECHOBEE   EXPEDITION".  241 

connection — but,  from  a  careful  examination  of  the 
ground  and  a  comparison  of  existing  proofs  with,  histo 
rical  description,  I  am  convinced  that  I  am  correct. 
Mr.  Houston  found,  some  years  ago,  a  bolt,  evidently  a 
large  coupling-bolt,  and  a  piece  of  iron  resembling  the 
trunnion  of  a  cannon.  I  am  convinced  that  a  series  of 
excavations  would  reveal  further  proofs  of  my  views. 
Upon  the  south  end  of  Merritt's  Island,  west  of  the  shell 
bluff  just  mentioned,  lives  the  Crusoe  of  the  river.  He 
has  lived  here  some  three  or  four  years,  cultivating  the 
soil  and  clearing  the  scant  hammock,  till  he  has  several 
acres  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  with  abundant  crops 
of  squashes  and  prickly  pear.  Within  a  year  or  so 
this  Crusoe  has  purchased  several  goats,  and  lives  there 
alone  with  them  and  his  cat.  I  went  over  one  day  to 
pay  him  a  visit,  but  he  was  away.  His  shanty  and  goats 
were  still  there,  though,  and  I  determined  to  have  a 
picture  of  them.  This  shanty  was  about  twenty  feet  long, 
five  feet  high  in  the  middle,  and  about  six  feet  wide  at 
the  base.  It  was  made  by  covering  a  "  pitch  roof  "  with 
palmetto  leaves,  and  was  open  at  either  end.  Two 
boards  formed  one  side  and  end  of  the  bed  he  slept  in, 
and  the  side  of  the  shanty  the  other  side.  There  was 
just  room  enough  to  crawl  in,  so  filled  up  was  it  with 
old  rope,  boards,  etc.  It  looked  so  snake-suggestive  that 
none  of  us  entered.  There  was  an  old  broken-legged 
table,  a  crippled  chair,  a  grind-stone,  and  a  smudge-pot 
outside.  The  owner,  we  afterward  learned,  was  camp 
ing  out  to  get  rid  of  the  fleas.  There  are  many  incon 
veniences  attending  photographing  in  Florida,  and  I 
have  had  so  many  amusing  and  provoking  incidents  that 
I  shall  some  time  write  a  chapter  of  them.  I  set  ni} 
companions  to  collecting  and  herding  the  goats,  abou 
11 


242  THE   OKEECIIOBEE   EXPEDITION. 

fifteen,  near  the  shanty,  while  I  set  my  camera  and 
pitched  my  developing  tent.  When  all  was  ready,  I 
looked  for  my  goats  and  saw  them  not.  They  soon  ap 
peared,  however,  in  hot  pursuit  of  my  boatman  Dan, 
who  just  escaped  old  Billy  by  climbing  the  fence.  We 
soon  got  them  in  position  near  the  shanty,  with  the  aid 
of  my  friend  and  the  two  boatmen,  and  retired  to  my 
tent  to  prepare  the  negative  plate.  Upon  emerging,  I 
discovered  that  the  leader  of  the  herd  had  amused  him 
self  chasing  my  friend  about  the  place — causing  him  to 
sit  down  in  a  bed  of  prickly  pear,  which  hurt  his  feelings 
very  much — and  otherwise  misbehaving  himself.  After 
much  trouble  we  got  them  in  order,  and  I  opened  the 
slide  and  congratulated  myself  upon  getting  a  good 
picture.  I  hardly  counted  "two"  before  a  huge  old 
goat,  with  wide-spread  horns,  spied  my  camera  and 
started  on  a  tour  of  inspection.  If  he  had  started  lei 
surely  I  shouldn't  have  cared,  but  he  came  in  a  hurry, 
as  though  he  saw  something  in  my  direction  he  desired, 
and  so  I  concluded  to  postpone  the  taking  of  that  picture, 
shouldered  my  camera  and  travelled  among  the  cacti  in  a 
way  that  brought  tears  to  my  eyes  and  tears  to  the  eyes 
of  my  friends  on  the  fence.  I  never  did  love  goats  ;  and 
if  that  goat  had  seemed  at  all  open  to  conviction  I  should 
have  stopped  and  told  him  what  I  thought  of  goats  in 
general,  and  him  in  particular.  But  I  didn't  stop,  but 
kept  right  on,  leaped  the  bank  and  gained  the  boat,  just 
as  he  struck  it  with  his  horns.  Then  he  went  back  and 
stood  peacefully  chewing  his  cud.  And  I  think  he  is 
still  there,  for  I  didn't  go  back  to  alarm  him. 

As  most  of  Florida  visitors  are  aware,  Sand  Point 
is  the  principal  place  on  the  river,  or  lagoon,  and  about 
the  only  point  the  visitor  sees — he  is  so  tired  and  worn 


THE   OKEECHOBEE   EXPEDITION.  243 

by  the  ride  there  that  he  goes  no  further.  I  don't  know 
that  the  people  of  this  section  are  more  avaricious  than 
in  any  other — indeed,  I  have  always  found  the  residents 
generous  and  hospitable — but  the  temptation  to  bleed  a 
man  with  money  is  irresistible  where  money  is  so  scarce. 
Along  the  St.  Johns,  at  the  hotels,  it  is  worse  than  on 
Indian  river.  It  is  just  as  a  "  cracker  "  expressed  it  one 
day  at  St.  Lucie.  He  came  to  my  friend,  the  doctor, 
with  a  bottle  in  his  hand  containing  some  unhappy  bugs 
he  had  captured.  Says  he  : 

"  Doctor,  I  reck'n  I've  gut  a  curosty  for  ycr." 

"  Ah  ! " 

"  Yis  ;  when  you  uns  was  done  gone  inter  Okeecho- 
bee,  I  cough t  these  yer  animils  fer  yer.  Ye  see,  I  was  a 
cuttin'  down  a  cabbage  palmeteer  and  found  these  yer 
into  the  middle  on't ;  and  as  I  never  seed  any  like  'em  I 
jest  put  'em  in  a  bottle,  and  hev  been  a  feedin'  'em  nigh 
on  two  weeks.  I  s'pose  you  want  'em,  don't  yez  ?  " 

"  Well,  yes,  I'll  take  them  ;  how  much  for  them  ?  " 

The  bugs  were  worthless,  but  the  doctor  always  made 
a  point  of  taking  whatever  was  brought,  as  sometimes  he 
secured  something  of  value. 

"  Wall,  I  don't  know  ;  I  reck'n  about  two  dollars  a 
piece  ! " 

"  Do  you  think  that  enough,  Mr.  T.  ?  " 

"  Wall,  they'se  been  a  heap  uv  trouble  to  me,  an'  I've 
neglected  my  grubbin'  to  feed  them  thar  critters,  an'  I 
railly  suppose  they's  worth  considerable  more,  but  I 
didn't  know  how  much  you  Yankees  would  stand! " 

That  is  the  key  note  rung  by  the  hotel  keepers  in 
Florida,  "  how  much  you  Yankees  can  stand  without 
collapsing." 

At  Smyrna  I  met  Dr.  Fox,  the  guide  to  the  Savan- 


244  THE   OKEECHOBEE   EXPEDITION. 

nah  party  that  sought  Lake  Okeechobee.  As  has  been 
stated,  th«y  were  obliged  to  return  after  reaching  Lake 
Kissimmee,  owing  to  the  illness  of  one  of  their  number. 
They  found  an  abundance  of  game  in  the  islands  of 
Lakes  Kissimmec  and  Cypress,  and  the  woods  bordering 
the  river.  From  the  nature  of  the  country  bordering 
the  upper  Kissimmee,  I  knew  that  there  would  be  an 
abundance  of  game,  such  as  quail,  turkeys,  and  deer, 
there  being  more  "  hammocks  "  and  less  real  swamps 
than  upon  the  lower  Kissimmee.  If  I  include  the  vari 
ous  birds  and  animals  generally  called  game  by  many 
gunners,  then  the  Kissimmee  is  well  stocked.  At  the 
ford  were  hundreds  of  white  ibis  and  yellow-legs  and 
curlew,  while  the  settlers  vouched  for  several  flocks  of 
turkeys  in  the  "hammocks."  Deer  were  comparatively 
abundant  out  on  the  prairies,  wild-cats  plentiful,  while 
only  a  few  nights  before  our  arrival,  a  panther  had  put 
in  an  appearance  at  a  settler's  cabin,  while  the  man  was 
away,  and  carried  away  a  hog  before  the  eyes  of  the 
settler's  wife  and  children.  One  of  the  party  had  a 
Kemington,  No.  12  bore,  30-in.  breech-loader  along, 
and  made  quick  work  with  whatever  birds  came  within 
range.  The  execution  of  this  gun  is  remarkable,  and  we 
could  shoot  with  equal  ease  the  smallest  warbler  or 
largest  heron  or  hank.  Its  simplicity  of  construction, 
plainness,  and  cheapness,  make  it  jnst  the  gun  for  the 
collector.  This  gun,  with  my  9-in.  Remington  revolver, 
was  amply  sufficient  in  the  way  of  fire-arms,  though  we 
had  encumbered  ourselves  with  several  other  weapons. 

There  will,  undoubtedly,  be  many  visitors  to  the 
Okccchobee  and  Kissimmee  region  next  winter,  and  I 
doubt  not  that  the  sporting  facilities  will  be  thoroughly 
tested.  The  boat  in  which  I  made  my  trip  I  sold  to 


THE   OKEECHOBEE    EXPEDITION.  245 

Judge  Parker,  a  resident  on  the  Kissimmee,  near  Fort 
Bassenger,  and  any  party  desiring  to  make  the  trip 
could  not  do  better  than  secure  control  of  the  stanch 
Forest  and  Stream,  as  she  is  a  boat  well  suited  to 
the  work. 

I  left  St.  Lucie,  Indian  river,  the  14th  of  February. 
As  before  stated,  it  was  my  intention  to  have  my  boat 
transported  to  the  Kissimmee  river,  and  sail  down  that 
river  into  and  around  Lake  Okeechobee. 

This  plan  has  been  adhered  to,  and  has  resulted  in 
a  complete  success.  Of  all  the  parties  started  for  Lake 
Okeechobee  this  winter — and  there  seem  to  have  been 
many — ours  is  the  only  one  that  has  penetrated  the 
Everglades  and  explored  the  lake.  It  is,  in  fact,  the 
only  party  that  has  sailed  completely  around  the  lake, 
and  brought  from  thence  authentic  information  regard 
ing  its  topography  and  natural  productions.  The  lake 
is  the  largest  in  the  South.  Probably  less  has  been 
known  of  this  lake  than  of  any  body  of  water  of  like 
size  in  the  Union,  owing  to  the  impassability  of  the 
country  about  it,  and  the  alleged  hostility  of  the  Indians 
upon  its  borders.  During  the  Indian  war  of  1835-'43, 
boats  crossed  up  it  on  two  occasions,  ascending  and  de 
scending  the  Kissimmee  river,  and  scouring  the  cypress 
swamps  in  search  of  Indians.  In  the  war  of  '56-'58, 
forts,  or  military  stations,  were  located  as  near  the  lake 
as  the  character  of  the  land  would  permit,  and  it  was 
frequently  crossed,  and,  no  doubt,  pretty  thoroughly 
explored.  But  the  soldiers  of  the  last  Indian  war  were 
principally  militia,  natives  of  the  country,  and  but  little 
knowledge  of  the  lake  was  disseminated  through  them. 
Since  that  time  Okeechobee  has  remained  veiled  in 
obscurity.  No  one  but  the  Seminoles  knew  the  charac- 


246  THE    OKEECIIOBEE    EXPEDITION. 

ter  of  its  shores  or  the  productions  of  its  waters.  The 
mystery  surrounding  it  has  been  unbroken,  nothing  has 
been  really  known  of  it,  until  our  boat  was  launched  upon 
its  waters.  The  State  engineer  of  Florida,  in  1855, 
expressed  the  opinion  generally  held  regarding  the  coun 
try  about  the  lake,  when  he  wrote  :  "  These  lands  are  now, 
and  will  continue  to  be,  nearly  as  much  unknown  as  the 
interior  of  Africa,  or  the  mountain  sources  of  the  Ama 
zon."  Fabulous  stories  of  beautiful  islands,  picturesque 
ruins,  and  pirate-haunted  glens,  have  been  much  in  vogue 
with  writers  upon  Lake  Okeechobee,  and  to  lift  the  veil 
that  has  so  long  hung  over  it,  and  narrate  the  plain  facts, 
is  to  deprive  them  of  a  seemingly  inexhaustible  fund  of 
romance.  I  must  confess  that  it  pains  me  to  do  so,  but 
fidelity  to  truth  compels  me  to  write  of  the  lake  as  it  is, 
and  not  as  it  should  be.  The  beautiful  groves  of  trop 
ical  fruits,  the  monkeys,  spiders  of  gigantic  size,  and 
ancient  ruins,  are  among  the  things  that  were  not. 

There  is  but  one  practicable  route  to  Lake  Okeecho 
bee,  that  via  the  Kissimmee  river.  There  are,  however, 
two  routes  to  that  river,  and  for  the  edification  of  the 
future  traveller  to  the  lake  I  will  describe  them.  A 
good  boat,  provisions,  and  everything  necessary  for  a 
month's  stay,  are  necessary  by  either.  The  one  I  adopted 
was,  as  stated,  from  Indian  river,  at  St.  Lucie,  across 
the  country,  to  the  location  of  old  Fort  Bassenger,  on 
the  Kissimmee  river.  The  first  ten  miles  is  through  a- 
low  open  pine  woods,  very  wet  in  the  winter  months, 
through  which  flow  two  deep  creeks,  the  "  Five-mile  " 
and  "Ten-mile."  From  Ten-mile  creek  the  course  is 
north  of  west  for  twenty-four  miles,  at  first  over  the 
Alapattie  Flats,  submerged  as  late  as  March,  and  dry 
and  alkaline  in  the  dry  season  ;  later,  a  short  wiry  grass 


THE   OKEECHOBEE    EXPEDITION.  247 

covers  them,  and  shallow  ponds,  dry  in  the  dry  season, 
occur  at  intervals.  The  clumps  of  cypress  here  are 
characteristic  of  this  section,  being  in  long  curving  lines, 
resembling  mountains  at  a  distance.  At  intervals  of 
half  a  dozen  miles,  pine  islands  occur,  with  opportuni 
ties  for  camping.  Sixteen  miles  from  Ten-mile  creek, 
twenty-six  from  St.  Lucie,  the  prairies  of  the  St.  Johns 
are  taken  and  kept  until  the  old  military  road  from  Fort 
Capron  to  Tampa  is  struck,  when  the  course  is  due  west 
for  five  miles  through  a  belt  of  timber  to  the  Kissimmee 
Prairies.  This  belt  runs  nearly  north  and  south,  separa 
ting  the  prairies  of  the  Kissimmee  from  those  of  the 
St.  Johns  and  the  Alapattie  Flats.  The  road  over  the 
prairies  is  rather  obscure,  as  also  is  that  to  the  timber 
upon  the  other  side,  but  easily  followed  by  a  woodsman. 
The  course  is  south-west.  The  prairie  is  dotted  with 
pine  islands,  the  last  one  (in  which  lives  the  only 
settler  on  the  route,  Judge  Parker)  is  over  two  miles  in 
width.  The  Kissimmee  at  the  ford  is  about  fifty  yards 
wide,  though  it  sometimes  overflows  its  banks  for  two 
miles  upon  the  eastern  side.  We  had  to  wade  a  mile 
before  launching  our  boat. 

The  other  route  is  from  Lake  Jessup,  or  Winder,  on 
the  St.  Johns,  to  Lake  Tohopekaliga,  or  Cypress,  the 
head-waters  of  the  Kissimmee.  It  is  said  to  be  about 
forty  miles  overland,  and  one  hundred  and  forty  down 
the  river  to  Bassenger.  The  settlers  near  the  river  knew 
nothing  of  the  distance  from  the  Fort  Bassenger  ford  to 
the  lake,  but  thought  it  to  be  sixty  miles.  We  found  it 
about  fifty-five  miles,  and  it  took  us  two  days  to  reach 
the  lake.  The  river  is  extremely  crooked,  the  current 
swift,  and  the  water  the  l^st  in  south  Florida.  The 
width  at  the  ford  is  maintained  throughout  almost  its 


248  THE   OKEECIIOBEE   EXPEDITIOX. 

entire  length,  though  narrowing  in  places  near  its 
month.  During  the  first  thirty  miles  are  occasional 
live-oak  and  maple  bluffs,  but  beyond  that  the  river  ran 
through  vast  plains  of  cane  and  saw-grass,  and  between 
low  willows.  Many  lagoons  make  up  from  the  river. 
Isolated  clumps  of  magnolia  grow  in  the  marsh,  appear 
ing  like  large  trees  at  a  distance.  Ten  miles  from  the 
ford  is  a  settler's  cabin,  the  last  on  the  river.  Twenty 
miles  from  the  lake  is  the  last  oak,  and  three  miles  from 
the  lake  a  large  cypress,  from  which  a  view  of  the  lake 
can  be  obtained. 

The  Kissimmee,  as  it  enters  the  lake,  forms  a  bay  a 
mile  in  width  and  depth,  filled  with  lilies  and  water- 
lettuce.  There  are  two  cypress  trees  near  its  mouth,  but 
all  around  is  marsh.  The  most  conspicuous  birds  on  the 
river  have  been  the  limpkin,  or  crying  bird,  the  white 
ibis,  white  heron,  snake  bird,  and  vulture.  Black  bass 
are  plentiful  and  large,  perch,  cat-fish,  and  bream  also 
abound.  All  the  way  down,  on  either  side,  is  a  pine 
ridge,  from  three  to  five  miles  away,  sometimes  ap 
proaching  the  river.  It  spreads  out  as  it  nears  the  lake, 
and  maintains  the  same  distance  on  the  west  side,  and 
merges  itself  in  the  cypress  bordering  the  eastern  shore. 
It  is  a  little  over  a  mile  to  the  first  projection  of  the  bay, 
west,  where  cypress  and  grass  shoals  present  a  dreary 
appearance.  Back  of  this,  however,  is  a  drift  of  sand, 
upon  which  grows  a  thin  belt  of  elm,  maple,  and  elder 
berry,  interlaced  and  overgrown  with  large  grape  vines. 
Back  of  this  sand,  which  must  be  covered  at  high-water, 
is  a  dark  lagoon,  filled  with  alligators.  A  large  fish- 
hawk's  nest  here,  induced  us  to  call  this  place  Osprey 
Point.  A  mile  further  is  a  camping  place  used  by 
Indians  when  hunting,  all  cypress.  The  sand  is  here 


THE   OKEECHOBEE   EXPEDITION.  249 

six  inches  above  the  lake,  and  a  quiet  lagoon  affords 
shelter  for  a  boat.  Detached  belts  of  cypress  and  marsh 
occur  next,  and  the  only  place  suitable  for  camping  is 
ten  miles  south-west.  AYe  called  it  Mulberry  Camp, 
from  the  occurrence  of  that  tree  there.  Besides  mul 
berries,  there  are  ash,  maple,  box-wood,  cypress,  India 
rubber  and  elderberry.  There  are  gigantic  cypresses 
here,  six  feet  in  diameter,  completely  enclosed  in  the 
India  rubber,  and  covered  with  ivy. 

The  shore  trends  south-west  for  about  fifteen  miles 
from  the  Kissimmee,  where  along  cypress  hammock 
ends  in  a  lone  palmetto.  Here  a  deep  bay  makes  in 
some  three  miles,  and  is  about  five  miles  in  width.  At 
the  end  of  this  bay,  the  palmetto  spurs  from  the  main 
ridge  approached  within  a  mile.  All  south  of  this  is  an 
unbroken  marsh,  deeply  indented  with  bays,  from  which 
blind  creeks  or  "sloughs"  ramify  in  every  direction. 
Due  south  of  this  palmetto  point  is  a  low  willow  island, 
with  but  a  few  inches  of  sand  above  water,  covered  with 
nests  of  heron  and  snake-bird.  A  marsh  extends  to  this 
island,  and  south  of  it  is  another  deep  bay.  Below  this 
island  the  shore  trends  southward  for  about  eight  miles, 
then  the  dip  is  south-east — a  desolate  region,  with  a  low, 
dark  line  of  willows  bordering  the  shore.  It  has  a  very 
deceptive  appearance,  this  same  shore,  as  various  shades 
from  the  light  of  the  grass  shoals  to  the  dark  of  the 
willows,  make  it  seem  very  high,  and  the  traveller  is  only 
disenchanted  by  a  close  inspection. 

About  thirty  miles  south  by  west  of  Kissimmee  is  the 
only  island  in  the  lake  affording  foothold  to  man.  It  is 
one  and  a  half  miles  long  and  four  miles  from  the  south 
west  shore.  It  runs  north-west  and  south-east,  and  is 
dry  upon  its  eastern  or  lake  side,  and  marshy  on  the 
11* 


250  THE   OKEECIIOBEE   EXPEDITION. 

western,  or  shore  side.  It  is  nowhere  more  than  a  foot 
above  the  level  of  the  water,  a  dry  sand-ridge,  covered 
with  India  rubber,  ash,  and  sweet  bay,  with  a  few  paw 
paws  in  fruit  and  flower.  Nearly  half  an  acre,  at  one 
end,  was  covered  with  vines  of  the  wild  gourd.  Upon 
both  sides  and  at  either  end  is  a  thick  growth  of  willow, 
with  some  cypress.  The  northern  end  is  covered  with 
the  dark  vines  of  the  ipomea,  in  which  hundreds  of  white 
herons  and  spoonbills  have  built  their  nests.  From  a  tall 
cypress  here,  the  shore  can  be  traced  for  many  miles — • 
nothing  but  marsh  and  marsh  for  miles,  with  a  few 
palmettoes,  spurs  from  the  main  ridge  some  five  miles 
back.  Due  south  of  this  island  is  a  sand  beach  a  mile 
in  length,  covered  with  large  cypress.  It  is  but  thirty 
feet  wide,  backed  by  interminable  marsh.  Some  rare 
minute  fossil  shells  were  found  here.  A  bay  two  miles 
deep  is  found  south  of  this  point,  and  thence  the  shore 
trends  south-east.  The  course  from  point  to  point  is 
due  east.  There  are  three  projecting  points  from  the 
main  marsh,  of  this,  the  southern  end  of  Lake  Okee- 
chobee,  covered  with  a  vegetation  strikingly  different 
from  that  of  the  western  and  northern  shores.  It  is 
here  that  the  water  filters  through  the  grassy,  marshy 
rim  to  the  south.  The  low  custard  apple  is  the  only 
tree  here.  Joint-grass  and  lilies  are  thickly  filled  in, 
the  whole  forming  a  mass  easily  permeated  by  the  water. 
The  lake  terminates  in  three  great  bays,  from  five  to 
six  miles  in  width,  curving  easterly.  If  there  are  any 
streams  leading  out  of  them,  they  are  not  navigable,  or 
even  discernible.  Nearly  opposite  the  island  before 
mentioned,  Fish  Eating  creek  comes  in — a  large  creek 
in  some  place?,  but  not  navigable  for  our  boat.  Fort 


THE   OKEECHOBEE   EXPEDITION.  251 

Centre,  a  military  post  in  the  last  Indian  war,  was  six 
miles  from  the  lake  upon  this  creek. 

After  this  succession  of  bays  and  marshy  points  the 
shore  suddenly  turns  northward,  and  vegetation  assumes 
a  different  appearance.  Cypress  appear  here  and  there, 
and  a  thick  sprinkling  of  ash  and  palmetto.  About  four 
miles  from  the  commencement  of  the  northward  dip,  the 
shore  turns  north-east.  Three  miles  south  of  this  curve 
is  a  group  of  three  islands,  about  two  miles  in  length. 
They  curve  from  south  to  north-east,  and  are  nearly 
submerged,  only  covered  with  ash,  apparently,  and  low 
willows.  At  this  curve  in  the  main  shore  ends  the  Ever 
glades,  and  commences  a  cypress  belt  that  extends  north 
east  for  thirty  miles.  The  beach  here  is  composed  of 
disintegrated  shells,  and  there  are  many  species  of  salt 
water  shells  thrown  upon  the  shore.  Fragments  of 
coquina,  also,  were  found  here.  There  were  tracks  of 
coons  and  rabbits  here,  the  first  seen  since  leaving  the 
north-west  shore.  Moccasin  snakes  were  unusually 
plentiful,  and  unwound  themselves  from  nearly  every 
fallen  tree.  A  belt  of  cypress,  in  which  is  mingled  all 
the  trees  mentioned  as  occurring  in  the  hammocks  of  the 
north-west  shore,  backs  this  white  shell  beach,  the  only 
breaks  in  which,  to  within  two  miles  of  the  Kissimmee, 
are,  first  a  deep  sound,  fifteen  miles  south-east  of  the 
Kissimmee,  and  a  bay  two  miles  from  that  river.  This 
latter  bay  so  much  resembles  that  of  the  Kissimmee  that 
it  will  puzzle  one  unless  he  examines  it  thoroughly. 
Taylor's  creek,  and  another  smaller,  empty  into  the  lake 
within  ten  miles  of  the  Kissimmee,  but  their  channels 
are  so  choked  with  water-lettuce  and  lilies  that  an  expe 
rienced  eye  is  required  to  discern  them. 

The  lake  is  about  forty  miles  long,  by  twenty-five  in 


252  THE   OKEECHOBEE   EXPEDITION. 

width.  In  length,  the  greatest  from  the  month  of  the 
Kissimmee  south-east ;  in  breadth,  near  the  centre.  It 
is  very  shallow,  and  grass  shoals  extend  for  miles  into  the 
lake.  Nowhere  did  we  find  a  greater  depth  than  twelve 
feet.  In  fish  Okeechobee  is  deficient ;  such  is  the  violence 
of  the  storms  there,  and  such  the  shallowness  of  the  lake, 
that  it  is  often  stirred  to  its  very  centre,  and  no  fish  of 
ordinary  mould  can  survive  such  a  stirring  up.  The 
fish-food,  also,  the  Crustacea,  etc.,  is"  scarce.  Alligators 
are  not  so  numerous  as  one  would  expect,  except  in  the 
lagoons  and  at  the  creek-mouths.  Birds  are  not  abun 
dant,  with  the  exception  of  the  fish-hawk,  crying-birds, 
snake-birds,  and  heron.  A  complete  list  of  the  birds 
will  be  found  in  a  separate  chapter. 

During  all  our  voyage  wre  saw  but  6ne  man,  beside 
our  party,  and  the  only  evidence  of  any  people  ever 
having  lived  here  was  in  the  discovery  of  the  remains  of 
two  villages,  the  houses  sunken  to  the  ground,  and  the 
plantations  overrun  with  the  wild  growth  of  the  swamp. 
This  was  upon  the  east  shore,  eleven  miles  east  of  the 
Kissimmee  river.  Bananas,  paw-paws,  sugar-cane,  and 
guavas  were  growing  here  in  wild  luxuriance.  These 
villages  belonged  to  a  portion  of  the  Okeechobee  tribe 
of  Seminoles,  now  living  in  the  Big  Cypress,  south 
west  of  Lake  Okeechobee. 

FEED  BEVEKLY. 


XXV. 

FLORIDA  TRAVEL. 

St.  Johns  river  is  the  great  attraction  for  all 
_  tourists  ;  but  those  who  wish  to  examine  a  wild 
and  weird  stream,  should  take  one  of  Colonel  Hart's 
steamers  from  Pilatka  and  ascend  the  Ochlawaha  ;  and 
en  route  visit  that  great  natural  curiosity,  Silver  Spring. 
Owing  to  the  character  of  the  navigation,  the  boats 
present  an  unpretending  exterior ;  but  the  accommoda 
tions  and  table  can  be  recommended,  more  especially 
when  we  take  into  consideration  the  low  price  of 
passage. 

A  large  number  of  steam-boats  ply  on  the  St.  Johns 
river,  and  the  tourist  will  find  comfortable  state-rooms 
and  well  supplied  tables.  But  visitors  to  Florida  must 
remember  that  the  stewards  of  the  boats  cannot  visit 
Fulton  Market  and  buy  in  a  stock  of  luxuries.  When 
we  take  everything  into  consideration,  we  must  con 
gratulate  the  owners  of  steamboats  in  the  State  for  the 
manner  in  which  they  cater  for  their  passengers. 

Jacksonville,  the  great  objective  point,  is  well  sup 
plied  with  hotels,  and  innumerable  private  boarding 
houses.  At  Magnolia,  Hibernia,  Green  Cove  Spring, 
Pilatka,  Mellon ville,  and  Enterprise,  excellent  hotels  will 
be  found.  For  the  information  of  intending  tourists 


FLORIDA  TRAVEL. 

and  sportsmen  we  will   furnish  rates  to  all  important 
landings  on  the  St.  Johns  river. 

Fare  to  all  landings  between  Jacksonville  and  Green  Cove 

Spring- $1  00 

Fare  to  all  landings  above  Green  Cove  Spring  to    Pilatka    2  00 
Meals  Extra. 

Jacksonville  to  San  Mateo 4  00 

Welaka 500 

"         "         Lake  George  Landing 6  00 

"         "        Volusea 7  00 

Blue  Spring 800 

"         "         Enterprise  and  Mellon ville 9  00 

Lake  Harris 12  00 

Salt  Lake 14  00 

State-room  and  meals  included  in  fare  to  all  points  beyond 
Pilatka. 

Charge  for  row  boats  to  Enterprise $3  to  6 

Salt  Lake 8 

From  Salt  Lake,  passengers  can  secure  transportation 
to  Indian  river  for  about  $5.  Freight  one-half  cent  per 
pound.  A  small  steamer  has  been  placed  on  Indian 
river,  but  as  yet  nothing  definite  has  been  determined 
regarding  fare  or  time  of  departure.  So  much  has 
already  been  written  about  Indian  river  as  an  attractive 
point  for  sportsmen  that  I  shall  refrain  from  adding 
my  mite. 

New  Smyrna,  on  the  Halifax  river,  can  be  reached 
from  Enterprise,  but  as  Colonel  Alden  has  so  thoroughly 
written  up  the  locality  in  the  columns  of  the  public 
press,  we  shall  refrain  from  commenting  upon  its 
climate,  bathing,  and  piscatorial  attractions.  But  we 
are  compelled  to  state  that  sportsmen  will  find  the  Colo 
nel  approachable,  and  ever  ready  to  furnish  information 
regarding  his  section. 


FLORIDA   TRAVEL.  255 

St.  Augustine  can  be  reached  from  Tocoi  by  railroad. 
The  road  is  fourteen  miles  in  length  and  the  charge  for 
passage  $2.50.  The  price  may  seem  exorbitant,  but 
travellers  must  remember  that  travel  is  limited,  and  that 
the  road  must  earn  sufficient  in  three  months  to  run  it 
for  twelve.  Excellent  hotel  accommodations  will  be 
found  in  St.  Augustine,  and  in  addition,  the  tourist  can 
choose  between  a  number  of  private  boarding  houses. 

If  any  adventurous  sporting  reader  wishes  to  indulge 
in  an  agreeable  and  romantic  trip,  we  would  advise  him 
to  obtain  a  light  flat-bottomed  boat,  eighteen  to  twenty 
feet  long,  five  feet  beam,  with  centre-board  and  sprit  sail. 
Forward  it  to  Jacksonville  by  sailing  vessel  or  steamer  ; 
from  Jacksonville  to  Mellonville  by  steamboat.  Trans 
port  boat  from  Mellonville  to  Lake  Hoptaliga  by  wagon, 
a  distance  of  about  thirty-five  miles,  at  an  expense  of 
$25.  From  the  lake  descend  the  Kissimmee  river  to 
Lake  Okeechobee,  a  distance  of  about  one  hundred  and 
sixty  miles.  The  river  is  bounded  by  extensive  prairies, 
and  the  hunter  can  indulge  in  deer  shooting  to  his  satis 
faction.  Ducks  and  'gators  exist  in  immense  quantities, 
and  bass  (trout)  fishing  will  be  found  to  be  excellent. 
Owing  to  the  prevalence  of  easterly  winds,  the  open 
nature  of  the  country  and  the  rapid  current,  Okeechobee 
can  be  reached  in  three  days  from  Hoptaliga. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Kissimmee  to  the  mouth  of 
Fish  Eating  creek  is  a  distance  of  about  thirty  miles. 
But  to  find  the  entrance  to  the  latter  stream  is  the  rub. 
Three  parties  have  descended  the  Kissimmee,  and 
searched  for  the  mouth  of  the  creek,  but  failed  to  find 
it.  I  propose  entering  it  before  next  spring,  from  the 
lake,  and  if  I  succeed,  I  will  erect  a  pole  at  its  mouth, 
surmounted  with  a  tin  can.  The  best  directions  I  can 


256  FLORIDA   TRAVEL. 

furnish  to  parties  desirous  of  entering  the  creek  are  as 
follows  : 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Kissimmee  river  to  Fish  Eat 
ing  creek  the  course  of  the  lake  shore  is  south-west  by 
west,  about  thirty  miles  ;  and  from  the  mouth  of  the 
creek  the  trend  of  the  shore  is  south-south-east.  The 
bearings  of  the  lake  shore  will  guide  the  wanderer  in 
finding  the  entrance  of  the  creek.  North  of  the  creek 
less  than  one  mile,  a  very  large  cypress  will  be  noticed  in 
the  lake,  about  six  hundred  feet  from  the  shore.  Owing 
to  the  prevalence  of  easterly  winds,  the  mouth  of  the 
creek  will  probably  be  found  obstructed  by  floating  let 
tuce,  but  the  channel  can  be  discovered  by  keeping  near 
the  shore  and  sounding  with  a  pole.  To  escape  -the 
difficulties  attending  the  navigation  of  the  creek  (for  two 
and  a  half  miles,  beginning  at  the  lake),  in  consequence 
of  the  presence  of  lettuce,  we  would  advise  parties  to  take 
to  the  marsh  opposite  the  large  cypress,  and  pursue  south 
west  by  wrest  course,  which  will  land  them  in  the  creek 
above  the  obstruction  ;  in  an  ordinary  state  of  water  a  boat 
can  be  pushed  through  the  saw-grass  and  lily-pads. 

Proceeding  up  the  creek  about  five  miles,  an  immense 
mound  will  be  noticed  on  the  left  bank.  This  has  not 
been  opened  to  any  extent,  and  if  arehaeologically  inclined 
the  tourist  may  amuse  himself.  Six  miles  above  the 
mound  a  ford  will  be  discovered,  and  this  point  is  named 
Xew  Fort  Centre.  By  proceeding  a  few  miles  above  the 
crossing,  the  sportsman  could  camp  on  the  banks  of  the 
creek  under  the  protecting  branches  of  some  huge  live- 
oak,  and  indulge  in  the  best  deer  and  turkey  shooting  in 
the  United  States.  The  creek  is  noted  for  its  numbers 
of  large  trout  (bass). 

The  question  of  how  to  reach  the  Caloosahatchie  will 


FLORIDA   TRAVEL.  257 

be  asked.  The  pedestrian  of  the  party  must  provide 
himself  with  a  bottle  of  water,  and  some  provisions,  and 
take  the  old  military  road  at  the  ford  and  follow  it 
for  twelve  miles  in  a  south-west  direction,  when  Mr. 
Carlton's  residence  will  be  discovered.  I  arranged  with 
Mr.  Carl  ton  to  transport  boat  and  traps  for  any  party  from 
the  creek  to  Fort  Thompson,  at  the  head  of  navigation, 
on  the  Caloosahatchie.  The  price  agreed  upon  with  Mr. 
Carlton,  for  self,  wagon,  and  team,  was  $3  per  day.  Going 
to  and  returning  from  the  creek  would  require  two  days, 
and  entail  an  expense  of  $6.  I  engaged  Mr.  Carlton  to 
carry  me  to  Fish  Eating  creek,  and  formed  a  very  favor 
able  opinion  of  him. 

At  the  rapids,  large  trout  and  cavalli,  weighing  three 
to  four  pounds,  can  be  captured.  As  a  general  rule,  a 
number  of  Indians  will  be  found  in  camp  at  the  fort, 
and  superior  buckskins  can  be  purchased  from  them 
for  $1  per  skin.  The  descent  of  the  Caloosahatchie  a 
distance  of  about  110  miles  will  be  found  to  be  an  enjoy 
able  trip.  When  Punta  Rassa  is  reached,  the  wanderer 
may  do  up  Charlotte  Harbor,  or  take  the  steamer  Valley 
City  on  Tuesday  and  reach  Cedar  Keys  on  Thursday. 

The  trip  from  Jacksonville,  and  return  via  Punta 
Eassa  and  Cedar  Keys,  a  distance  of  about  1,000  miles 
could  be  made  in  a  limited  period  and  at  a  trifling 
expense.  We  are  under  the  impression  that  we  could  do 
it  up  in  the  time  indicated  below  :  2  days  to  Mellonville  ; 
2  days  to  Hoptaliga  ;  4  days  to  Okeechobee ;  2  days  to 
Fish  Eating  creek  ;  I  day  to  Fort  Centre  ;  3  days  to  be 
occupied  in  transporting  boat  to  Fort  Thompson  ;  4  days 
from  Fort  T.  to  Punta  Rassa  ;  2  days  from  Punta  Rassa 
to  Cedar  Keys  ;  1  day  from  Cedar  Keys  to  Jacksonville  ; 
or  twenty-one  days  for  the  round  trip. 


258  FLORIDA   TRAVEL. 

I  may  remark  that  boats  can  be  purchased  in  Jack 
sonville  ;  but,  as  they  are  generally  built  of  yellow  pine, 
they  are  heavy  and  apt  to  leak.  Before  leaving  Jackson 
ville,  or  Mellonville,  a  party  should  provide  themselves 
with  a  pushing  pole  sixteen  feet  long. 

It  seems  strange  that  Florida  is  almost  the  oldest 
settled  portion  of  the  United  States,  and  up  to  the 
present  time  no  person  lias  left  the  Atlantic  coast  and 
reached  the  Gulf  through  the  medium  of  a  boat,  via 
St.  Johns,  Kissimmee,  Okeechobee,  and  Caloosahatchie, 
and  for  the  obvious  reason  that  no  one  has  been  able  to 
find  the  mouth  of  Fish  Eating  creek.  If  I  can  find  the 
right  kind  of  a  companion,  I  will  make  the  attempt 
in  December  or  January.  I  have  recently  received  one 
of  Bond's  sectional  boats,  sixteen  feet  long,  and  propose 
testing  its  applicability  for  the  trip.  South-west  Florida 
is  a  sportsman's  paradise,  and  truly  worth  visiting. 
Frosts  are  unknown,  rain  seldom  falls  during  the  winter 
months,  the  days  are  not  uncomfortably  warm,  and  the 
health  is  unexceptionable. 

"  AL  FRESCO." 


XXVI. 
HOMOSASSA— TALLAHASSEE. 

SINCE  my  last  communication  was  mailed,  I  have 
received  a  letter  from  E.  J.  Harris,  Esq.,  of  Ocala, 
in  answer  to  one  of  mine  ;  and  I  shall  copy  portions  of 
it  for  the  benefit  of  intending  tourists  : 

"  Yours  of  the  4th  was  received  the  other  day,  relative 
to  the  route  and  conveyances  to  Homosassa.  Alfred 
Davis,  a  well-to-do  colored  man,  who  keeps  horses  and 
vehicles  to  hire,  agreed  with  me  at  the  following  prices  : 
For  carrying  one  person  and  his  baggage  from  Ocala  to 
Homosassa,  $10.  For  two  persons,  at  the  same  time,  $12  ; 
or  $6  each.  For  three  persons  or  more,  at  the  same  time, 
$5  each.  His  vehicles  consist  of  one  hack  with  cover, 
and  one  one-horse  buggy.  He  says  that  he  will  have 
another  two-horse  hack  soon.  Davis  will  pay  the  ferriage 
over  the  Withlacoochee  river,  and  all  expenses  of  driver 
and  team. 

"  The  distance  is  somewhere  about  forty-six  miles  ; 
that  is  to  the  landing  on  Mr.  Yulee's  old  plantation. 
The  road,  for  Florida,  is  neither  good  nor  bad,  but  what 
you  would  call  middling  ;  a  part  of  it  over  sand-hills. 
But  by  taking  an  early  start,  the  trip  may  be  made  in  a 
day,  which  Davis  proposes  to  do,  I  think  the  price  rea 
sonable  enough,  considering  the  distance.  There  will  be 
other  horses  and  vehicles  to  hire.  I  also  will  keep,  the 


260  HOMOSASSA — TALLAHASSEE. 

coming  season,  horses  and  backs  chiefly  to  run  between 
this  (Ocala)  and  Silver  Spring,  and  convey  persons  free 
of  cost,  that  may  want  to  stop  at  my  house.  I  have  a- 
house  at  Silver  Spring,  and  will  have  it  fitted  up  in  good 
style  by  January,  to  run  in  connection  with  my  hotel 
in  Ocala." 

In  addition  to  the  remarks  of  Mr.  Harris,  I  may  state 
that  the  old  plantation  on  the  Homosassa  river  to  which 
he  refers  is  distant  from  Jones'  residence  about  two 
miles.  I  will  communicate  with  J.,  and  he  will  make 
arrangements  for  the  transportation  of  guests  on  their 
arrival  at  the  end  of  the  hack  journey. 

I  cannot  refrain  from  expressing  an  opinion  with 
regard  to  Ocala,  as  a  winter  resort  for  invalids.  The 
land  is  high,  and  the  air  is  pure  and  dry.  Last  fall  I 
advised  two  ladies  to  winter  there — one  was  suffering 
from  tuberculosis  of  the  left  lung  ;  and  the  other  from 
neuralgia  and  general  debility.  In  both  cases,  relief  was 
obtained.  Mr.  Harris  as  well  as  his  better  half,  arc 
kindness  itself.  The  hotel  is  large,  but  old-fashioned  ; 
and,  if  he  is  justified,  Mr.  Harris  will  refurnish  it.  The 
accommodations  are  fair ;  and  the  table  very  good  for  an 
inland  locality.  The  terms  of  board  are  about  825  per 
month.  Ocala  boasts  of  a  telegraph  station,  and  a  mail 
four  times  weekly.  The  population  numbers  about  four 
hundred.  The  great  objection  to  the  place,  is  the  exist 
ence  of  fleas  ;  and  we  would  recommend  intending  visit 
ors  to  supply  themselves  with  quantum  suff.  of  insect 
powder.  The  other  day,  I  was  favored  with  a  visit  from 
one  of  the  city  fathers  of  Ocala ;  and  advised  him  to 
secure  the  passage  of  an  ordinance  by  the  council,  remov 
ing  hogs  from  the  city  limits  ;  as  these  animals  are  to  a 
great  extent  the  cause  of  fleas.  He  assured  me  that  he 


HOMOS  ASS  A — TALLAHASSEE.  261 

would  use  his  efforts  to  accomplish  the  desired  end.  As 
a  winter  residence  for  the  consumptive,  we  have  no  hesi 
tation  in  recommending  Ocala.  For  the  sportsman  it 
possesses  no  attractions. 

As  a  resort  for  sportsmen,  the  fine  country  around 
Tallahassee  has  been  overlooked.  Before  the  war,  a 
large  area  was  under  cultivation  in  cotton,  and,  as  a  con 
sequence,  old  fields  surround  the  city  in  every  direction, 
and  these  literally  swarm  with  quail.  In  fact,  I  ques 
tion  if  they  can  be  found  as  plentiful  in  any  other  sec 
tion  of  the  United  States.  East  of  Tallahassee  is  Lake 
Lafayette,  six  miles  in  length  ;  and  four  miles  north  of 
the  city  Lake  Jackson,  seventeen  miles  long.  During  the 
winter  months  these  lake  swarm  with  duck  and  brant, 
and  the  gunnist  may  enjoy  himself  until  surfeited.  To 
the  angler  Lake  Jackson  presents  many  attractions,  as  it 
is  well  stocked  with  some  of  the  largest  bass  and  bream 
to  be  found  in  the  State. 

In  order  that  I  might  supply  the  reader  with  valuable 
information,  I  addressed  my  friend  F.  B.  Papy,  Esq., 
of  the  J.  P.  &  M.  R.  R. ,  and  in  reply  received  the  fol 
lowing  : 

"TALLAHASSEE,    FLORIDA,    Sept.    16,    1875. 

"  DEAR  SIR  :  Your  favor  of  the  7th,  to  Mr.  F.  B. 
Papy,  to  hand ;  he  is  now  absent  north,  but  I  hope  the 
information  I  may  give  will  serve  you. 

"  Q.  At  what  season  does  brant  and  duck  shooting 
exist  in  perfection  ?  A.  From  middle  of  November  to 
middle  of  March. 

"  Q.  Have  you  any  woodcock  in  your  section  during 
the  winter  ?  A.  Very  few. 


262  HOMOSASSA — TALLAHASSEE. 

<(  Q.  Ctin  comfortable  board  be  obtained  at  Lake 
Jackson  ?  A.  Country  board. 

"  Q.  Can  comfortable  board  be  obtained  where  quail 
are  plentiful ;  and  terms  ?  A.  Yes ;  terms,  $8  to  810 
per  week. 

"Q.  What  are  the  terms  for  board  in  your  city? 
A.  Hotel,  $3.50  per  diem  ;  private  board,  $8  to  $12.50 
per  week. 

"Q.  Can  boats  be  obtained  at  Lake  Jackson  ?  A. 
Yes. 

"Arrangements  are  in  progress  as  regards  excursion 
tickets  to  Tallahassee.  Will  be  happy  to  give  any  infor 
mation  in  my  power,  as  well  as  any  of  the  citizens  of  the 
vicinity.  Favorable  excursion  rates  will  be  effected 
between  Jacksonville  and  Middle  Florida  during  the 
season,  which  will  be  announced  in  due  time. 
"Very  truly  yours, 

"WM.  E.  AMES, 

"For  F.  B.  PAPY." 

Tallahassee  is  easily  reached  from  Jacksonville,  and  is 
well  worth  visiting  by  the  sportsman.  Upon  arrival  at 
depot,  if  Mr.  Papy  is  interviewed  he  will  furnish  all 
necessary  information.  He  is  a  capital  shot,  an  ardent 
sportsman,  and  his  statements  can  be  relied  upon. 
Tallahassee  is  rather  an  uncomfortable  locality  for  car 
pet-baggers  and  scallawags,  but  the  gentlemanly  sports 
man  will  meet  with  a  true  southern  welcome  from  all ; 
and  will  be  treated  with  the  utmost  kindness  and  cour 
tesy.  I  am  a  Northern  man,  and  speak  from  experience. 
Southerners  have  been  misrepresented  by  bigoted  and 
narrow-minded  Northerners  who  have  visited  the  State, 
and  false  impressions  have  been  produced.  A  few 


HOMOSASSA — TALLAHASSEE.  203 

prejudiced  persons  have  visited  the  South,  and  have  taken 
advantage  of  every  opportunity  to  ventilate  their  crotch 
ety  and  angular  points.  They  have  received  the  cold 
shoulder,  and  in  their  correspondence  have  resorted  to 
misrepresentations.  I  have  wandered  around  the  world, 
and  in  the  United  States  from  the  head  of  Lake  Supe 
rior  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  ;  and  during  my  many  wan 
derings  in  various  portions  of  Florida,  I  have  invariably 
been  treated  with  kindness,  courtesy,  and  hospitality — in 
fact,  I  have  never  met  with  the  same  kind  and  courteous 
treatment  anywhere  else.  To  the  sportsman  unac 
quainted  with  Florida  I  will  simply  say,  be  courteous  and 
reasonable,  and  a  true  southern  welcome,  and  the  most 
unbounded  hospitality,  will  be  extended  everywhere  and 
by  all. 

"AL  FKESCO." 


XXVII. 

SOUTH-WEST  FLORIDA. 
1. — FERKANDIHA  TO  CEDAR  KEYS. 

is  the  25th  of  February.  On  the  5th  of  last 
December,  I  left  New  York  on  the  steamer  Gulf 
Stream  for  Charleston,  in  company  with  Frank  and 
Harry,  to  whom  I  shall  refer  in  the  future.  My  boat 
(the  Spray),  with  necessaries  for  the  trip,  was  shipped  at 
Philadelphia  for  Savannah.  On  the  night  of  the  7th,  Hat- 
teras  favored  us  with  quantum  suff.  of  wind  and  a  cross  sea 
without  any  foot.  Although  an  old  sea-dog,  I  was  forced 
to  succumb  to  the  remedial  measures  of  old  Nep.  After 
many  voyages  we  fancy  that  we  are  competent  to  express 
an  opinion  regarding  the  sea-going  qualities  of  steam 
ships  and  sailing  vessels,  and  have  no  hesitation  in  stat 
ing  that  the  Gulf  Stream  is  remarkable  for  many  good 
qualities  in  a  heavy  sea.  We  reached  Charleston  on  the 
8th,  at  nine  r.  M.,  and  at  eleven  P.  M.  found  ourselves 
in  one  of  the  comfortable  state-rooms  of  the  good 
steamer  Dictator,  en  route  for  Savannah.  The  latter 
place  we  reached  on  the  Oth,  at  six  A.  M.,  and  at  twelve  M. 
left  for  Fernandina,  and  arrived  at  the  latter  place  at 


FERNANDINA  TO   CEDAK   KE^S.  265 

one  A.  M.  on  the  10th,  where  we  landed  the  Spray 
and  her  crew. 

We  have  visited  Florida  on  many  occasions,  and  have 
tested  the  sea-going  qualities  of  the  Dictator  and  City 
Point,  plying  between  Charleston,  Savannah,  Fernan- 
dina,  Jacksonville,  and  Pilatka,  and  can  unhesitatingly 
recommend  them  to  the  travelling  public.  The  traveller 
who  patronizes  one  of  these  boats  will  find  large  and 
pleasantly  furnished  forward  and  after  cabins,  large 
state-rooms,  good  beds,  clean  linen,  and  excellent  table, 
and  last,  though  not  least,  efficient,  courteous,  and  atten 
tive  officers  and  servants.  To  those  who  are  anxious  to 
escape  the  buffetings  of  old  mother  ocean,  we  would 
say,  take  a  sleeping  car  011  the  A.  &  G.  E.  E.  from 
Savannah,  and  Jacksonville  can  be  reached  in  a  pleas 
ant  manner.  Upon  reaching  Savannah  the  traveller  will 
find  the  Lizzie  Baker  advertised  to  take  the  inside  route 
to  Florida.  The  statement  is  only  true  to  a  certain 
extent,  as  the  Lizzie  B.  is  compelled  to  take  the  outside 
route  from  Fernandina  Harbor  to  the  river  St.  John, 
which  is  the  most  dangerous  portion  of  the  route,  and 
as  the  Lizzie  B.  is  not  as  well  adapted  to  cross  the  St. 
Johns  bar  or  to  contend  with  heavy  seas  as  the  Dictator 
or  City  Point,  we  unhesitatingly  advise  the  tourist  to 
take  passage  on  one  of  the  latter. 

Having  shipped  our  future  home,  the  Spray,  on  a 
flat  car,  we  left  Fernandina  on  the  morning  of  Friday  the 
llth,  and  at  five  P.  M.  found  ourselves  at  Cedar  Keys. 
We  travelled  over  this  road  in  February,  1873,  and  compli 
ment  the  management  upon  the  improved  condition  of 
the  road  bed  and  motive  power.  One  great  drawback 
to  Cedar  Keys  is  the  absence  of  a  good  hotel,  and  we  are 
satisfied  that  a  well-conducted  house,  with  a  good  table 


2G6  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

and  properly  cooked  food,  would  induce  many  tourists 
to  visit  this  locality.  Fishing,  hunting,  and  shooting  in 
the  neighborhood  are  good  ;  —  the  bathing  excellent, 
and  the  climate  superior  to  that  of  Jacksonville.  It 
seems  to  us  that  parties  interested  in  the  railroad 
would  materially  benefit  themselves  by  erecting  a  first- 
class  hotel  at  Cedar  Keys. 

We  expected  to  leave  Cedar  Keys  for  Manatee  on  the 
12th,  by  the  steamer  Emilie,  but  owing  to  the  detention 
of  the  steamer  Clyde,  plying  between  New  Orleans, 
Cedar  Keys,  and  Havana,  our  departure  was  delayed  until 
the  15th.  To  while  away  the  dull  hours,  we  proposed 
engaging  in  piscatorial  pursuits,  but  were  informed  that 
"it  was  too  warm  for  sea  trout  to  bite."  Placing  no 
dependence  in  the  statement  of  the  local  authorities,  I 
was  resolved  to  test  the  matter,  and  secured  several 
hundred  minnows  and  proceeded  to  the  railroad  dock. 
With  live  bait  we  caught  sea  trout  (weak  fish)  ranging 
from  two  to  six  pounds,  as  fast  as  we  could  bait  and  land 
them.  On  many  occasions  we  landed  a  brace  weighing 
from  four  to  five  pounds  each.  The  first  day  we  filled 
a  flour  barrel,  and  the  second  we  abandoned  the  sport 
when  we  had  captured  120  pounds.  Around  the  dock 
sea-bass  and  porgies  can  be  caught  with  cut  bait,  and 
shcepshead  with  fiddlers.  On  the  points  and  about  the 
reefs  a  few  miles  from  town,  superior  red  and  grouper 
fishing  can  be  obtained  at  Cedar  Keys.  The  sportsman 
will  find  unbounded  hospitality,  and  courteous  attention 
on  the  part  of  the  inhabitants.  Invitations  to  join 
hunting  and  fishing  expeditions  were  showered  upon  us, 
but  we  were  forced  to  decline.  From  this  point  the 
tourist  may  take  a  steamship  to  New  Orleans,  Tampa, 
Punta  Rassa,  Key  West,  or  Havana.  For  the  purpose 


TO   CEDAR   KEYS.  267 

of  cruising  along  the  coast,  or  general  sporting  purposes, 
suitable  boats  with  experienced  sailing  masters  can  be 
engaged  at  from  four  to  six  dollars  per  day.  Persons 
desiring  information,  wishing  to  secure  boats,  or  the  ser 
vices  of  sailing  masters,  may  address  Messrs.  Willard 
&  Raoux,  or  the  post-master,  J.  F.  Jackson.  These 
gentlemen  would  only  be  too  happy  to  furnish  any  infor 
mation  required,  as  well  as  assist  sportsmen  in  every  way 
upon  their  arrival.  If  these  gentlemen  are  called  upon 
by  the  disciples  of  the  rod  and  gun,  we  will  guarantee 
them  a  hearty  welcome,  and  any  assistance  required. 
At  this  point  we  were  introduced  to  a  gentleman  named 
Alfred  E.  Jones,  residing  at  Homosassa,  who  invited 
us  to  spend  a  fortnight  at  his  residence.  In  another 
communication  we  have  refered  to  his  hospitality  and  the 
attractions  of  his  locality. 

At  Cedar  Keys  we  instituted  numerous  inquiries 
regarding  Bronson,  the  county  seat  of  Levy  county,  dis 
tant  thirty  miles  from  Cedar  Keys,  on  the  line  of  rail 
road  to  Fernandina.  Fare  from  New  York  to  Bronson, 
by  Hermon  Gelpcke's  line  (via  Fernandina),  $25.  In  the 
neighborhood  of  Bronson  deer  are  plenty  ;  also  turkeys, 
brant,  duck,  and  quail  can  be  found  in  abundance. 
Chunky  Pond  is  distant  from  the  village  about  two 
miles  ;  it  is  about  two  miles  long  and  one  wide,  connect 
ing  with  a  number  of  smaller  ponds  which  extend  for  a 
distance  of  about  nine  miles.  These  ponds  contain  bream 
and  trout  (bass)  in  endless  numbers — the  latter  ranging 
from  one  to  fifteen  pounds.  Persons  visiting,  or  desir 
ous  of  visiting  Bronson,  would  do  well  to  call  upon  or 
communicate  with  Mr.  G-.  Levett,  the  county  clerk. 
The  hotel  at  Bronson  can  accommodate  fifteen  visitors ; 
board  $7  per  week.  Dr.  Johnson  would  accommodate 


268  SOUTH-WEST    FLOKIDA. 

two  or  three,  and  Mr.  Levett,  the  same  number  ;  board 
$5  per  week.  As  a  guide  to  the  best  fishing  points,  the 
visitor  can  secure  the  services  of  James  Pruden,  and 
for  deer  and  turkey  hunting,  J.  K.  Tunlon  or  W.  B. 
Kinsey. 

We  spent  several  days  very  pleasantly  at  Cedar  Keys 
and  made  numerous  acquaintances,  and  in  concluding  I 
cannot  refrain  from  referring  to  a  local  institution.  One 
evening,  at  nine  P.  M.  Messrs.  Willard  &  Raoux  invited  us 
to  visit  the  rear  of  their  store,  where  we  found  a  portion 
of  the  shell  of  a  boiler,  supported  by  brick  piers  ;  under 
the  boiler  was  a  large  fire,  and  on  the  top  thereof  two 
barrels  of  Cedar  Keys  oysters.  As  the  heat  opened  the 
oysters  the  crew  of  the  Spray  went  for  them,  and  I  must 
positively  decline  mentioning  what  proportion  of  the 
aforesaid  oysters  the  Sprayites  deposited  beneath  their 
belts. 


2. — MANATEE,  SARASOTA,  AND  GASPARILLA. 

WE  left  Cedar  Keys  Tuesday  evening,  on  steamer 
Emilie,  Captain  Lefferts,  and  arrived  at  Manatee  on  the 
morning  of  Wednesday  the  16th.  This  vessel  makes 
weekly  trips  between  Cedar  Keys,  Manatee,  Tampa, 
Punta  Rassa,  and  Key  West.  Tourists  and  sportsmen 
will  find  this  steamer  an  excellent  and  comfortable 
sea-boat,  and  her  commander  an  old  and  experienced 
sailor  ;  one  who  is  ever  attentive  to  make  his  passen 
gers  comfortable.  In  referring  to  the  able  and  oblig- 


MANATEE,   SAKASOTA,   AND  GASPAEILLA.         269 

ing  captain,  we  must  not  neglect  mentioning  the  effi 
cient,  courteous,  and  gentlemanly  purser.  To  those 
who  wish  to  enjoy  a  balmy  atmosphere,  an  equable  and 
salubrious  climate,  and  a  sea  voyage  over  a  calm  ocean,3 
we  would  say,  take  an  excursion  ticket  on  the  Emilie 
from  Cedar  Keys  to  Key  West  and  return. 

We  are  surprised  that  Mr.  Clyde,  owner  of  the  Gal- 
veston  line  of  steamships  touching  at  Key  West,  and 
Mr.  J.  K.  Eoberts  of  the  South-west  Florida  Coast  line, 
do  not  arrange  with  the  Pennsylvania  Kailroad  Com 
pany,  to  issue  excursion  tickets,  good  for  the  round  trip. 
If  this  arrangement  could  be  effected,  tourists  could 
leave  New  York  by  steamer  during  the  pleasant  autum 
nal  weather  arid  lay  over  at  Key  West  or  intermediate 
points  before  reaching  the  grand  objective  point  of 
Florida — the  city  of  Jacksonville.  The  return  trip  to 
the  North  could  be  made  by  rail,  thereby  avoiding  the 
unpleasant  storms  that  prevail  on  the  Atlantic  coast 
during  February  and  March.  This  arrangement  would 
enable  invalids  to  enjoy  the  superior  climate,  and  sports 
men  to  participate  in  the  unrivalled  fishing  and  shoot 
ing  of  the  south-west  coast  at  a  reasonable  outlay  of  time 
and  money.  To  popularize  the  route,  we  are  convinced 
that  it  would  pay  interested  parties  to  publish,  for  the 
benefit  of  tourists  and  sportsmen,  a  small  guide  descrip 
tive  of  the  route,  climate,  best  points  for  fishing  and 
shooting,  where  to  obtain  guides  and  boats,  necessaries 
for  outfits,  etc.  We  have  long  maintained  that  the 
south-west  coast  needs  but  to  have  its  advantages  known 
to  be  appreciated. 

We  launched  our  future  home,  the  Spray,  at  Mana 
tee,  and  for  the  benefit  of  others  we  shall  describe  the 
boat  and  outfit.  Possessing  a  limited  knowledge  of  the 


270  SOUTH-WEST    FLOEIDA. 

coast,  we  were  convinced  that  a  boat  of  an  ordinary 
yacht  model  was  not  adapted  to  our  wants,  as  she  would 
draw  too  much  water  for  the  navigation  of  creeks,  ba 
yous  and  shallow  rivers,  and  ground  on  the  mud  flats  and 
oyster  bars  so  extensively  distributed  in  all  the  bays  of 
the  coast.  A  flat-bottomed  or  bateau-modelled  boat  was 
not  adapted  to  our  wants,  as  she  would  prove  unsuitable 
for  outside  work,  and  would  not  work  well  to  windward. 
Before  purchasing,  we  examined  a  number  of  boats  in 
New  York  and  Philadelphia,  but  failed  to  find  what  we 
required.  Continuing  our  search,  we  visited  Burlington, 
Xew  Jersey,  and  found  the  Spray  for  sale  ;  and  she  was 
purchased.  Having  traversed  nearly  three  degrees  of 
latitude,  and  two  and  three-quarters  of  longitude  in  the 
Spray,  we  are  j.n  a  position  to  form  an  opinion,  and 
would  unhesitatingly  advise  intending  tourists  to  secure 
a  boat  of  similar  model,  as  we  found  her  in  every  way 
adapted  to  a  boat  journey  on  the  south-west  coast. 
Length  of  Spray,  twenty-one  feet ;  beam,  seven  feet ;  cat 
rigged  ;  centre-board  ;  form  of  bottom,  midway  between 
bateau  and  yacht ;  deep  scag  forward  ;  decked  over  for 
ward  seven  feet ;  movable  cabin,  six  feet  six  inches. 
This  form  of  hull  supplies  room  for  stowage,  light 
draught  of  water  ;  rows  well ;  is  remarkably  stiff  ;  and 
dry  and  comfortable  in  a  sea-way. 

Outfit,  two  pairs  of  oars  ;  canvas  awning  to  stretch 
over  boom,  and  fasten  to  screw  eyes  in  each  quarter  (thus 
protecting  after  part  of  boat),  anchor  and  cable,  palm, 
needles  and  sail  twine,  lantern,  lampwick,  lard  oil,  five- 
gallon  water-keg,  bucket,  broom,  spade,  axe,  saw,  screw 
driver,  gimlet,  hammer,  oyster  knife,  compass,  binocular 
glass,  small  stove,  frying  pan,  coffee-pot,  tin  stew-pan, 
tin  cups  and  plates,  knives  and  forks,  nails,  screws,  screw 


MANATEE,    SAKASOTA,    AND   GASPARILLA.         271 

eyes,  tinned  10-oz.  tacks,  whetstone,  matches  in  tin  boxes, 
soap,  towels,  combs,  hair  and  tooth  brushes,  pens,  paper, 
ink  ;  postage  stamps,  envelopes,  two  feed  chests,  sugar  in 
round  wooden  boxes  with  lids,  pickles,  cheese,  pepper, 
salt,  ten  pounds  best  Java  coffee  in  tin  box,  six  cans  con 
densed  milk,  forty-eight  pounds  best  lard  in  eight-pound 
tin  cans,  ninety- four  pounds  best  pilot  bread,  fifty  pounds 
best  breakfast  bacon,  two  hams,  two  boxes  red  herrings, 
old  boots,  shoes,  slippers,  and  clothes,  blankets,  with 
quantum  suff.  of  old  calico  and  newspapers,  powder,  shot, 
wads,  caps,  cartridges,  gun-cleaning  apparatus,  Colton's 
and  Drew's  maps  of  Florida,  one  Winchester  and  Rem 
ington  rifle,  one  breech  and  two  muzzle-loading  guns, 
hunting  knives,  fishing  rods  and  tackle ;  three  pounds 
arsenic  in  tin  box  ;  diarrhoaa  mixture,  lead  and  opium 
pills  for  dysentery,  purgative  pills,  and  adhesive  and 
court  plaster,  in  tin  cans  ;  tobacco,  pipes,  one  bottle  of 
brandy,  and  one  of  apple-jack.  Verily,  along  list  of 
plunder,  but  everything  absolutely  necessary  for  such  an 
expedition. 

Our  numerous  necessaries  were  stowed,  and  we  visited 
a  neighboring  saw-mill  to  secure  spring  mattresses.  The 
proprietor  sawed  us  four  boards  five-eighths  of  an  inch 
thick,  and  three  pieces  one  inch  thick  and  four  inches  wide. 
To  arrange  our  sleeping  apartment  at  night,  we  placed 
the  stove  in  the  cock-pit ;  the  1x4  pieces  athwart  ship, 
and  the  boards  forward  and  aft.  At  night  we  anchored 
the  Spray  as  far  as  possible  from  land,  placed  the  soft 
side  of  the  boards  uppermost ;  arranged  our  blankets  ; 
secured  our  awning,  and  slept  as  only  men  can  sleep, 
when  inhaling  the  balmy  and  invigorating  atmosphere  of 
South-west  Florida. 

Manatee  is  a  pleasant  village  of  several  hundred  in- 


272  SOUTH-WEST    FLOEIDA. 

habitants,  situated  on  the  Manatee  river,  eight  miles  from 
its  mouth.  At  this  place,  the  tourist  will  find  two  or 
three  boarding  houses,  where  fair  accommodations  can 
be  obtained  for  two  dollars  per  day,  or  forty  dollars  per 
month.  This  place  offers  to  the  invalid  a  pleasant  win 
ter  climate,  but  to  the  sportsman  few  attractions.  On 
Saturday,  the  19th,  we  hoisted  sail  and  bade  adieu  to 
Manatee.  Leaving  the  mouth  of  the  river  we  took  a 
westerly  course  for  the  striped  buoy  in  Tampa  Bay,  and 
from  buoy,  a  south-west  course  to  the  tripod  on  Anna 
Maria  Key,  from  a  point  near  the  tripod  a  south-east 
course  to  Palmasota  Point,  the  entrance  to  Sarasota  Bay. 
Between  these  points  the  channel  was  filled  with  mullet, 
and  hundreds  of  large  sharks  were  revelling  in  the  su 
perabundant  supply  of  delicious  food. 

Entering  Sarasota  Bay,  we  were  greeted  with  a  south 
easter  with  some  sea,  but  .the  Spray  worked  admirably, 
and  proved  herself  an  excellent  sea-boat.  Night  ap 
proaching,  we  made  a  harbor  under  the  lee  of  a  long 
sand- bar,  and  after  cooking  our  supper  we  laid  our  weary 
limbs  on  our  spring  beds.  At  ten  P.  M.  the  wind  hauled, 
and  we  found  our  position  an  uncomfortable  one,  com 
pelling  us  to  hoist  anchor  and  seek  a  better  harbor.  The 
night  being  dark,  I  handled  the  lead,  and  stationed 
Harry  at  the  helm.  With  the  lead  we  kept  in  the  chan 
nel,  and  made  tracks  for  the  southern  end  of  Sarasota 
Bay.  At  eleven  p.  M.  we  sighted  two  passes  in  the  dis 
tance,  one  of  which  we  had  reason  to  believe  would  carry 
us  to  sea,  and  the  other  into  Little  Sarasota  Bay.  We  ob 
jected  to  a  night  adventure  on  the  Gulf,  with  an  uncom 
fortable  sea  running,  and  as  we  had  been  informed  that  the 
entrance  into  Little  Sarasota  Bay  was  blocked  up  with 
dangerous  coon  oyster  reefs,  except  a  narrow  boat  chan- 


MANATEE,    SARASOTA,    AKD   GASPAKILLA.         273 

ncl,  we  deemed  it  best  to  seek  an  anchorage,  and  having 
found  shelter  from  the  waves  under  the  lee  of  an  exten 
sive  grassy  flat,  we  came  to  an  anchor. 

Next  morning  we  took  a  survey  of  the  surroundings, 
and  found  that  we  had  anchored  at  the  south  end  of 
Great  Sarasota  Bay.  We  noticed  a  house  near  the  beach, 
made  a  landing,  and  were  gratified  to  find  that  the  resi 
dents  were  from  Brooklyn,  New  York,  and  named  Ben 
nett.  Being  unacquainted  with  the  coast  farther  south, 
and  aware  of  the  fact  that  a  trip  of  thirty-eight  miles  to  sea 
was  before  us,  we  deemed  it  best  to  secure  a  pilot.  Ben 
nett  Junior  was  acquainted  with  the  coast,  and  offered 
to  pilot  us,  but  could  not  leave  until  Bennett  Senior 
returned  from  Manatee  with  their  boat.  The  elder 
Bennett  returned  on  Monday  night,  and  we  arranged  for 
an  early  start  on  Tuesday  morning.  Sailing  about  three 
miles  across  the  bay,  we  entered  Sarasota  Pass,  a  chan 
nel  of  about  500  feet  in  width,  leading  from  the  bay  to 
the  Gulf.  Approaching  the  entrance  we  discovered  two 
channels,  one  leading  direct  to  the  Gulf,  but  bounded  on 
each  side  by  extensive  sand-bars  ;  the  other  a  swamp 
channel  turning  short  to  the  south,  around  the  north 
point  of  Casey's  Key,  and  protected  seaward  by  an  ex 
tensive  sand-bar.  We  chose  the  latter,  and  soon  found 
ourselves  on  the  Gulf,  with  a  fair  wind. 

A  reference  to  Drew's  and  Colton's  maps  will  lead 
the  intending  tourist  to  believe  that  he  will  find  five 
available  passes  between  Little  Sarasota  and  Little  Gas- 
ptirilla  inlets.  But  these  maps  are  unreliable  as  far  as 
the  south-west  coast  is  concerned.  If  we  had  relied  upon 
these  maps,  and  attempted  this  portion  of  the  coast  with 
out  a  pilot,  we  would  have  experienced  disappointment, 
if  not  something  worse.  The  distance  between  the 


274:  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

passes  referred  to  is  thirty-eight  miles.  At  noon  the 
wind  died  away,  and  we  were  compelled  to  resort  to  an 
ashen  breeze.  Wednesday  morning  at  daylight,  we 
sighted  Little  Gasparilla  Pass.  At  low  tide  the  pass  is 
about  150  feet  wide,  with  two  entrances,  one  leading  in 
from  the  south,  and  the  other  a  swash  channel  which 
hugs  the  north  point.  We  chose  the  latter,  and  at 
sunrise  we  anchored  inside  the  pass,  discharged  the  pilot, 
and  captured  a  mess  of  sheepshead  for  breakfast.  After 
breakfast  we  got  under  weigh  for  our  objective  point, 
Lake  Okeechobee.  Possessing  no  knowledge  of  the 
route  to  be  traversed,  and  anticipating  difficulties  during 
the  journey,  we  resolved  upon  pushing  ahead,  and  on 
our  return  make  a  careful  examination  of  bays,  rivers, 
and  keys. 

From  Little  Gasparilla  to  Great  Gasparilla  passes, 
the  distance  is  about  two  and  a  quarter  miles.  To  keep 
in  the  channel  the  island  must  be  kept  close  aboard. 
When  Great  Gasparilla  Pass  opens,  the  traveller  must 
follow  the  channel  as  though  he  intended  proceeding  to 
sea,  and  at  the  southern  point  of  Little  Gasparilla 
Key  he  will  sight  a  channel  tending  in  an  east-south 
east  course,  which  must  be  followed  to  clear  a  long  and 
extensive  sand-bar,  extending  from  the  northerly  point 
of  Great  Gasparilla  Key.  Rounding  the  point  of  the  sand 
bar,  a  channel  with  six  to  nine  feet  of  water  will  be  found, 
leading  in  a  north-easterly  direction,  which  must  be  fol 
lowed.  Three  miles  from  the  pass  (Great  Gasparilla),  an 
island  will  be  approached,  and  this  must  be  left  about 
100  yards  to  port.  From  this  island  a  course  south  by 
east  must  be  steered  to  within  200  yards  of  the  inner 
portion  of  northern  point  of  Lacosta  Island.  Having 
crossed  Boca  Grande  entrance,  and  reached  the  point 


AMONG  THE  KEYS.  275 

referred  to,  some  fishermen's  palmetto  huts  will  be 
sighted,  where  fresh  water  can  be  obtained,  and  a  safe 
harbor  found. 

Boca  Grande  entrance  is  nearly  a  mile  wide,  with 
deep  water  and  a  rapid  tidal  current.  If  a  strong  south 
erly  wind  is  blowing  against  an  ebb  tide,  a  troublesome 
sea  will  be  encountered  at  this  entrance,  and  the  tourist 
must  govern  his  movements  accordingly.  Along  this  coast 
the  tides  differ  from  those  of  our  Northern  States.  In 
stead  of  two  tides  in  the  twenty-four  hours,  but  one 
flood  and  one  ebb  will  be  found.  At  this  point  I  may 
remark,  that  the  bays  north  of  Tampa  are  remarkable 
for  extensive  mud  and  grassy  flats,  and  coon  oyster  bars, 
rendering  navigation  difficult  to  the  uninitiated.  The 
water  in  all  the  bays  is  very  clear,  and  if  too  much  sea  is 
not  running  the  tourist  can  pick  his  way  through  the 
intricate  channels  by  observing  the  color  of  the  water. 
A  day's  experience  in  one  of  these  bays,  with  a  few  ex 
periments  in  stepping  overboard  and  pushing  his  boat 
off  oyster  bars  and  mud  flats,  will  educate  him  sufficiently 
to  avoide  the  necessity  of  the  frequent  utterance  of 
language  not  adapted  to  ears  polite. 


3. — AMONG  THE  KEYS. 

IN  my  last  communication  I  referred  to  a  spade  as 
a  portion  of  our  outfit,  aud  mentioned  the  fact  that  a 
supply  of  fresh  water  could  be  obtained  at  the  fish  ranch 
on  the  northern  end  of  Lacosta  Island.  To  the  tourist, 
a  supply  of  fresh  water  is  indispensable,  and  if  his  boat 
is  small  the  quantity  carried  must  be  limited,  and  how 
to  obtain  a  supply  is  an  important  matter.  Nearly 


276  SOUTH-WEST    FLORIDA. 

all  the  islands  and  keys  are  supplied  with  fresh  water, 
and  the  tourist  will  be  informed  that  this  indispensable 
fluid  "  can  be  obtained  almost  anywhere  on  the  islands 
or  keys  by  digging  a  hole  near  the  beach."  Water  of 
fair  quality  can  be  obtained  on  most  of  the  islands  and 
keys,  if  the  proper  site  is  selected  for  the  well.  In 
digging  for  water,  the  experienced  invariably  select  a 
locality  where  there  are  no  mangrove  bushes,  for  wher 
ever  this  growth  is  found,  water  will  be  impregnated 
with  salt.  On  the  bay  side  of  most  of  the  islands  and 
main  land  a  low-growing  bush  or  tree  will  be  found, 
with  circular  shaped  leaves  four  inches  wide,  and  the 
searcher  for  fresh  water  should  prospect  near  this  growth, 
as  fresh  water  will  generally  be  found  near  the  surface. 
We  dug  a  well  on  the  northern  end  of  Little  Gasparilla, 
forty  feet  from  the  beach,  and  curbed  it  with  an  empty 
barrel  we  picked  up  on  the  beach.  From  half  flood 
until  half  ebb  the  water  was  very  salt,  but  at  low  tide 
we  found  it  palatable.  After  finishing  our  well,  we 
explored  the  island,  and  found  about  its  centre  a  la 
goon  several  hundred  yards  in  length,  containing  excel 
lent  water. 

From  the  fish  ranch  on  the  eastern  end  of  Lacosta 
Island,  we  started  across,  south-east  by  south  three  miles, 
and  found  ourselves  abreast  of  the  northern  end  of 
Uscppa  Island.  At  six  p.  M.  we  landed  on  the  eastern 
side  of  the  island,  at  the  foot  of  a  large  shell  mound. 
To  the  south  of  the  large  mound  we  found  two  wells  of 
excellent  water,  and  on  the  north  side  some  very  large 
figs,  with  a  full  supply  of  superior  limes.  Searching 
farther  we  discovered  a  luxurious  banana  patch,  but  the 
fruit  was  not  ripe.  The  island  is  over  one  mile  in 
length  and  one-third  of  a  mile  in  width  at  the  widest 


AMONG  THE   KEYS.  277 

point.  In  the  centre  of  this  island  will  be  found  several 
large  shell  mounds,  the  largest  about  sixty  feet  high. 
The  southern  extremity  of  the  island  is  covered  with 
live-oak  and  mangrove  trees.  From  the  mounds  to  the 
northern  end,  the  island  is  clothed  with  a  luxuriant 
growth  of  live-oak  and  palms,  and  is  the  highest  land  to 
be  found  on  any  of  the  coast  islands  south  of  Cedar  Keys. 
In  front  of  the  mounds  deep  water  will  be  found  within 
a  few  yards  of  the  shore.  This  island  has  been  the  home 
of  a  couple  for  several  years,  but  as  the  female  part  of 
the  population  deemed  it  proper  to  elope  with  a  fisher 
man,  the  masculine  portion  became  guilty  of  arson,  and 
retired  from  the  beautiful  island  of  TJseppa,  leaving 
behind  him  some  bricks,  charcoal,  and  the  remains  of  a 
cooking-stove. 

This  island  is  distant  two  miles  from  the  Gulf,  from 
which  it  is  separated  and  protected  by  Lacosta  Island ; 
distance  to  the  main  land,  fifteen  miles.  Owing  to  its 
climatic  advantages,  elevation  of  the  land,  and  protected 
situation,  it  is  the  most  eligible  site  for  a  sanitarium  in 
the  South.  Frost  is  unknown,  and  before  the  chilly 
north-west  wind  can  reach  the  island,  it  becomes  tem 
perate  by  crossing  the  warm  waters  of  the  harbor  for  a 
distance  of  twenty  miles.  In  this  section  the  much-to- 
be-dreaded  north-easters  of  the  coast  do  not  bring  rain, 
and  have  none  of  that  searching,  chilly  nature  that 
characterizes  them  on  the  Atlantic  side.  Useppa  is 
truly  the  winter  home  for  the  invalid  suffering  from 
pulmonary  disease — excelling  in  climatic  advantages  Ber 
muda,  Nice,  or  Madeira.  We  predict  that  the  day  is  not 
far  distant  when  a  large  hotel  will  grace  the  shell  mound 
on  this  island,  and  invalids  in  hundreds  will  inhale  a 
-ife-restoring  atmosphere  unequalled  by  that  of  any  part 


278  SOUTH-WEST  FLORIDA. 

of  the  world.  The  winter  season  in  this  section  is  re 
markable  for  the  small  amount  of  rain  and  the  equable 
temperature.  At  Punta  Kassa,  twenty  miles  north  of 
Useppa,  at  a  much  less  favored  portion,  the  highest  range 
of  the  thermometer  for  the  years  of  '72,  '73,  and  '74, 
was  95  degrees,  and  the  lowest  40  degrees.  The  observ 
ers  stationed  at  Punta  Rassa  favored  me  with  the  range 
of  the  thermometer  for  the  year  1874,  and  I  shall  merely 
give  the  highest  and  lowest  ranges  for  the  various 
months  : 

Highest.  Lowest. 

January 79 42 

February 84 50 

March 85 55 

April 87 55 

May 90 59 

June 91 70 

July 91 70 

August 91 70 

September 91 67 

October 85 04 

November 82 50 

December 80 49 

We  spent  several  weeks  at  Charlotte  Harbor  and  the 
Caloosahatchie  river,  and  did  not  see  a  drop  of  rain  dur 
ing  that  period  ;  and  found  the  climate  invigorating  and 
delightful.  This  section  of  the  State  is  not  affected  by 
those  sudden  transitions  of  temperature  which  are  so 
unpleasant  farther  north,  or  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  For 
the  sportsman,  Useppa  offers  many  attractions,  as  the 
neighboring  oyster  reefs  and  low  islands  arc  frequented 
by  countless  numbers  of  snipe  ;  the  adjoining  islands  are 
well  stocked  with  deer,  and  the  waters  of  the  bay  teem 


AMONG   THE   KEYS.  279 

with  fisli  of  a  superior  quality.  On  our  return  we  called 
at  this  island  to  secure  a  supply  of  water.  I  engaged 
in  capturing  a  mess  of  fish,  and  in  a  short  time,  with 
fiddlers  for  bait,  landed  the  following  :  cavalli,  sheeps- 
head,  red  and  black  grouper,  porgy,  sea-bass,  angel-fish, 
and  catfish. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  at  Useppa,  a  fishing  schooner, 
named  the  Breaker,  came  to  an  anchor,  and  we 
boarded  her,  as  we  fancied  we  might  patch  up  some 
information.  The  captain  was  named  William  Smart, 
and  resided  at  Key  West.  He  had  been  navigating  the 
south-west  coast  for  twenty-seven  years,  and  appeared 
thoroughly  posted  with  regard  to  every  island,  key, 
channel,  pass,  bay,  creek,  river,  and  shoal  on  the  coast. 
During  the  survey  of  Charlotte  Harbor  he  had  been 
engaged  in  the  capacity  of  pilot,  and  during  the  last 
Indian  war  he  was  employed  in  the  Quartermaster's 
Department.  He  informed  me  that  he  owned  a  fast- 
sailing  sloop  of  five  tons  measurement,  in  every  way 
adapted  to  the  navigation  of  the  south-west  coast.  He 
stated  that  he  would  fit  her  up,  so  as  to  comfortably 
accommodate  a  party  of  six  sportsmen  ;  supply  stove  and 
cooking  utensils,  and  two  Mystic-built  skiffs.  He  and  his 
son  (an  intelligent  youth  of  sixteen)  would  sail  the  craft, 
cook,  and  render  themselves  generally  useful.  For  all 
this  fit-out  and  services,  the  captain  would  charge  four 
dollars  per  day.  One  great  recommendation,  in  my 
estimation,  is  the  fact  that  Captain  Smart  is  a  teetotaller. 
A  party  of  four  or  six  could  charter  this  craft,  take 
steamer  at  New  York,  and  on  arrival  at  Key  West  take 
possession.  The  tourist  could  visit  the  keys,  islands, 
oays,  capes,  rivers,  creeks,  harbors,  passes,  and  mainland 
— in  fact  all  the  more  important  hunting  and  fishing 


280  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

points  "between  Key  West  and  Cedar  Keys — when  the 
party  could  take  the  cars  for  home.  Having  had  a 
limited  experience  of  climate  and  him  ting  and  fishing  on 
the  south-west  coast,  I  wish  to  continue  it,  and  would 
only  be  too  happy  to  join  from  three  to  five  congenial 
spirits,  in  the  fall  of  1875,  to  charter  the  sloop  referred 
to,  and  do  up  in  a  thorough  manner  sections  that  I  have 
merely  prospected,  and  others  that  I  have  not  visited. 

Leaving  the  fishing  ranch  on  the  north  end  of  La- 
costa  Island,  and  steering  a  course  north-east  by  east 
eight  miles,  a  deep  bay,  without  islands,  shoals,  or  mud- 
banks,  will  open  up.  From  this  point  a  course  north'by 
west  twelve  miles  will  reveal  the  broad  entrance  to  Peas 
creek,  which  stream  can  be  ascended  for  eighty  miles. 
Reliable  parties,  who  have  visited  and  who  reside  upon 
this  stream,  have  assured  me  that  its  banks  present  a 
fine  field  for  deer  and  turkey  hunting.  Crossing  the 
head  of  the  bay,  six  miles  in  a  westerly  direction  from 
Peas  creek,  the  Myokka  river  will  open  up.  From  state 
ments  received,  I  have  reason  to  believe  that  the  Myokka 
is  the  home  of  the  alligator,  the  place  where  the  big 
fellows  live,  exist,  and  have  their  being.  The  limited 
time  at  our  disposal  would  not  admit  of  our  visiting 
these  attractive  streams,  but  we  hope  at  some  future 
time  to  examine  them  and  perforate  a  few  of  those 
gigantic  saurians. 

Leaving  Useppa,  a  course  south-east  by  east  must  be 
steered  until  the  south-west  portion  of  Pine  Island  is 
abeam  and  distant  one  mile,  then  cast  by  north  until 
Punta  Kassa  bears  north  by  east  three-quarters  of  a  mile. 
From  this  point  a  northerly  course  will  bring  the  dock 
at  the  telegraph  station.  Leaving  Useppa  four  miles 
astern,  we  sighted  a  small  "coon  oyster"  island.  It 


METEOROLOGY.  281 

presented  a  singular  appearance,  and  an  examination 
with  a  glass  revealed  the  fact  that  it  was  literally  covered 
with  snipe.  Four  shots  furnished  us  with  more  than 
enough  for  an  extensive  snipe  stew,  and  an  examination 
of  them  revealed  the  fact  that  we  had  bagged  six  distinct 
species.  The  tide  was  low  and  the  island  was  surrounded 
by  an  extensive  mud  flat  mixed  with  broken  shells.  The 
shallow  water  was  literally  alive  with  sheepshead,  weak- 
iish,  red-fish,  pompano,  cavalli,  grouper,  etc.  In  the 
deeper  water  there  roamed  dozens  of  voracious  sharks, 
who  in  pursuit  of  their  prey  would  venture  into  the 
shallow  waters  until  a  portion  of  their  bodies  was 
exposed.  Frank  amused  himself  for  over  an  hour  in 
the  water  and  mud,  hunting  sharks  with  a  shot  gun. 
They  appeared  to  be  unacquainted  with  man, and  exhib 
ited  no  fear.  They  were  so  intent  upon  securing  a  meal 
that  they  could  be  approached  within  a  few  feet.  De 
sirous  of  reaching  our  goal,  we  reluctantly  left  this 
piscatorial  paradise,  and  made  sail  for  Punta  Eassa, 
where  we  arrived  on  the  evening  of  the  24th  of  December, 
and  telegraphed  to  loved  ones — "Compliments  of  the 
season.  All  well.  Depart  for  interior  to-morrow." 


4.  — METEOROLOGY. 

PERSONS  undertaking  a  boat  cruise  on  the  south-west 
coast  should  provide  themselves  with  the  published 
charts  of  Charlotte  Harbor.  These  show  the  sound 
ings  of  Boca  Grande  and  Caloosa  entrances ;  and  San 
Carlos  Bay  to  the  mouth  of  the  Caloosahatchie  rivor. 
Outside  of  these  localities  the  tourist  will  be  com 
pelled  to  pick  his  way,  unless  he  is  well  supplied  with 


282  SOUTH-WEST  FLORIDA. 

this  world's  goods  and  can  engage  the  services  of  a  pilot. 
Occasionally  an  old  coaster  will  be  met  with,  from  whom 
some  valuable  information  can  be  obtained  regarding  the 
navigation  of  localities  the  wanderer  may  wish  to  visit — 
and  such  opportunities  should  be  taken  advantage  of. 

We  may  remark  at  this  time  that  we  found  our  outfit 
deficient  in  several  important  implements.  This  being 
our  first  boat  cruise  in  this  section,  and  having  a  large 
amount  of  plunder  to  stow  and  transport,  we  were  some 
what  excusable  for  leaving  behind  three  important 
weapons,  to  wit :  a  harpoon,  grains,  and  turtle  peg.  The 
two  former  are  well  known,  and  can  be  obtained  in  fish 
ing-tackle  stores  ;  but  as  the  turtle  peg  is  seldom  seen 
in  the  North  I  may  at  some  future  time  give  a  descrip 
tion  of  it.  In  enumerating,  on  a  former  occasion,  the 
articles  composing  our  outfit,  I  neglected  to  mention  a 
Spanish  cast  net.  I  purchased  one  before  leaving  tho 
North,  but  found  it  entirely  useless.  It  was  made  of 
cotton  twine,  eight  feet  wide,  and  with  but  six  pounds 
of  lead  to  sink  it.  For  use  in  southern  waters  a  net 
should  be  made  of  the  best  gilling  twine,  twelve  to  four 
teen  feet  in  diameter,  and  weighted  with  from  twelve  to 
fourteen  pounds  of  lead  ;  a  cast  net  of  any  other  descrip 
tion  will  prove  useless,  and  had  better  remain  in  tho 
North  to  decorate  the  window  of  some  fishing  tackle 
store. 

Punta  Rassa  has  been  very  appropriately  termed  tho 
"jumping  off  place  of  all  creation."  At  this  point  the 
tourist  will  find  two  large  wooden  buildings  and  some 
palmetto  huts,  and  a  large  and  substantial  dock.  The 
first  building  is  a  large  structure  resembling  a  warehouse, 
and  is  the  residence  of  two  operators  in  charge  of  the 
Inter-Colonial  Ocean  Telegraph  wires  and  station  at  this 


METEOROLOGY.  283 

point ;  and  also  of  two  observers  representing  "  Old 
Prob."  North  of  the  telegraph  building  is  a  large 
wooden  structure  belonging  to  Captain  Henry,  and  used 
as  a  post-office  and  lodging  quarters  for  the  employees  of 
Capt.  H.,  and  those  engaged  in  shipping  cattle.  The 
palmetto  huts  belong  to  a  gentleman  who  has  an  exten 
sive  fishery  at  this  point.  This  is  the  point  where  cattle 
are  shipped  from  southern  Florida  to  Key  West  and 
Cuba.  The  operators  and  observers  at  this  point 
treated  us  with  great  courtesy  and  attention,  and  we  are 
prompted  to  thus  publicly  express  our  thanks. 

Finding  nothing  to  interest  us  at  this  very  uninter 
esting  point,  we  left,  on  the  morning  of  the  26th,  for  the 
Caloosahatchie  river,  and  found  the  entrance  a  difficult 
piece  of  navigation.  By  advice  we  took  the  boat  channel, 
and  were  favored  with  a  head  wind  and  ebb  tide  ;  a  nar 
row,  crooked  channel,  bounded  and  obstructed  by  mud 
flats  and  coon  oyster  bars.  After  one  hour's  beating  we 
made  one  thousand  feet,  and  surmounted  the  difficulties 
incident  to  the  navigation.  We  ultimately  reached  the 
widest  part  of  the  river,  and  found  it  to  be  a  grand 
stream,  nearly  equalling  in  size  the  St.  Johns  between 
Jacksonville  and  Orange  Mills.  We  found  the  shores 
high,  and  clothed  with  pine  timber  of  fair  quality  as  far 
up  as  Fort  Myers.  At  6.30  we  moored  to  the  dock  at 
the  last-named  place — 25  miles  distant  from  Punta  Eassa. 
This  was  an  important  military  post  during  the  first  and 
second  Indian  Avars.  At  the  termination  of  the  late 
unpleasantness  some  malicious  persons  destroyed  by  fire 
all  the  buildings  but  one.  At  the  present  time  the 
place  contains  a  population  of  about  100  persons,  nearly 
all  of  whom  are  engaged  in  cattle  raising  or  herding  in 
south-west  Florida.  We  found  the  residents  courteous 
and  hospitable,  and  ready  to  oblige  us  in  any  way. 


284 


SOUTH-WEST    PLOItlDA. 


As  an  evidence  of  the  tropical  character  of  the 
climate  at  this  point  I  need  but  refer  to  the  fact  that 
the  wanderer  will  find  eleven  cocoanut  trees  growing 
on  the  margin  of  the  river  and  producing  fruit.  We 
see  no  reason  why  tropical  fruits  and  plants  should  not 
be  profitably  cultivated  on  the  banks  of  the  Caloosahat- 
chie.  If  we  were  young  and  disposed  to  make  ourselves 
a  home  in  a  new  country,  we  would  without  hesitation 
locate  on  the  banks  of  this  stream.  The  winters  are 
pleasant,  and  the  summers  not  uncomfortably  warm. 
Northern  people  entertain  the  opinion  that  "  the  range 
of  the  thermometer  in  southern  Florida  must  be  much 
higher  than  in  the  North  ! "  but  this  is  a  mistake.  To 
illustrate  this  position  I  select  at  random  a  few  statistics 
from  Blodgett's  excellent  and  reliable  work  on  Climatol 
ogy  ;  and  for  the  purpose  of  comparison  again  refer  to 
observations  at  Punta  Eassa  for  the  year  1874 — thereby 
illustrating  the  highest  and  lowest  thermometric  range  : 

LOWEST  TUERMOMETRIC  RANGE. 


PLACE. 

Date. 

Jan. 

Feb. 

March. 

April. 

May. 

June. 

New  York  City.... 

1822 

60      1 

68    10 

76    22 

84    24 

84    34 

98    58 

Philadelphia  

1856 

40      5 

46      2 

48      5 

80    24 

87    40 

98    48 

Washington,  D.  C. 

1855 

58    17 

48      3 

65    16 

92    23 

86    35 

15    38 

St.  Louis,  Mo  

1855 

65      3 

67     5 

67    14 

92    32 

93    38 

95    50 

Cincinnati,  Ohio.. 

185-1 

10      5 

68    16 

80    22 

91    28 

92    42 

94    45 

Fort  Snclling,  Min 

iar>4 

45    36 

45    20 

58      4 

85      9 

84    32 

93    41 

Key  West,  Fla.... 

18:31 

82    50 

82    57 

89    66 

36    62 

88    70 

87    72 

Key  West,  Fla.... 

1838 

79    62 

80    54 

81     62 

82    63 

85    64 

87    73 

Key  West,  Fla.... 

1854 

80    58 

81    64 

84    68 

83    60 

90    73 

90    78 

PuutaRassa,  Fla.. 

1874 

79    42 

81    50 

85    55 

87    55 

90    59 

91    70 

METEOROLOGY. 


285 


HIGHEST  TIIERMOMETRIC  RANGE. 


PLACE. 

Date. 

July. 

Aug. 

Sept. 

Oct. 

Nov. 

Dec. 

0            0 

0             0 

0             0 

0            0 

0              0 

0           0 

New  York  City  .  .  . 

1822 

100  62 

94    60 

89    50 

86    37 

71    33 

63    13 

Philadelphia  

1856 

98    64 

90    53 

90    44 

78    35 

75    31 

61      9 

Washington,  D.  C. 

1855 

95    52 

90    47 

90    42 

72    25 

72    24 

63    13 

St.  Louis,  Mo  

1855 

96    60 

91    65 

90    47 

81    28 

71    24 

65      4 

Cincinnati,  Ohio.. 

1854 

95    64 

96    58 

99    46 

83    35 

65    24 

58    15 

Fort  Snelling,  Min 

1854 

93    55 

95    50 

88    39 

74    28 

60    11 

45      8 

Key  West,  Fla  

1831 

88    78 

87    75 

89    77 

81    71 

82    69 

80    60 

Key  West,  Fla  

1838 

88    73 

88    75 

88    75 

87    71 

83    66 

82    54 

Key  West,  Fla.... 

1854 

89    78 

89    78 

88    77 

84    72 

83    58 

80    54 

Punta  Rassa,  Fla. 

1874 

91    70 

91    71 

91    67 

85    64 

82    50 

80    49 

Land  speculators  residing  at  Bay  Biscayne,  who  have 
axes  to  grind,  and  those  who  have  visited  the  Indian 
river  country,  go  into  ecstasies  over  the  superiority  of 
the  climate  of  the  southern  Atlantic  coast,  and  spread 
their  opinions  broadcast  over  the  land.  Brinton,  in  his 
excellent  work  on  "Florida  and  the  South,"  remarks: 
"  The  "highest  winter  temperature  observed  anywhere  on 
the  mainland  of  the  United  States  was  at  Fort  Dallas  on 
the  Miami  river,  and  at  New  Smyrna,  some  miles  north 
of  it,  both  on  the  east  coast  of  Florida.  Furthermore, 
their  range  is  less  than  anywhere  else.  During  four 
years  that  the  army  officers  watched  the  thermometer  at 
Fort  Dallas,  the  highest  point  reached  by  the  mercury 
was  ninety-five  degrees,  the  lowest  thirty-five  degrees  ; 
a  range  therefore  of  sixty  degrees  in  four  years."  The 
highest  range  of  the  thermometer  for  the  last  three  years 


286  SOUTH-WEST    FLORIDA. 

at  Pnnta  Eassa  was  ninety-five,  and  the  lowest  forty,  a 
range  therefore  of  but  fifty-five  degrees.  From  these 
data  we  are  inclined  to  believe  that  the  climate  of  the 
south-west  coast  will  favorably  compare  with  that  of  the 
Miami  and  Indian  river  sections. 

In  southern  Florida,  calm,  warm,  and  sweltering 
nights,  during  the  summer  months,  are  unknown,  but  on 
the  contrary  a  refreshing  breeze  exists,  and  blankets  be 
come  almost  a  necessity.  During  the  nights  of  July 
and  August,  when  northern  people  are  suffering  from  a 
calm  and  sultry  atmosphere  and  praying  for  a  refreshing 
breeze  to  enable  them  to  sleep  !  the  residents  of  south 
ern  Florida  sleep  soundly,  and  are  refreshed  by  cooling 
and  invigorating  zephyrs  wafted  from  old  mother  ocean. 

During  the  winter  months  in  southern  Florida  rains 
are  unfrequent,  but  in  summer,  when  vegetation  is  active, 
moisture  demanded,  and  frequent  rain  storms  desirable 
and  required  to  favor  vegetable  growth  and  cool  the  at 
mosphere,  such  rains  are  of  almost  daily  occurrence. 
From  the  time  we  left  Sarasota  Bay  until  we  reached 
Clear  Water  Harbor  on  our  return,  we  did  not  see  a 
drop  of  rain.  For  the  purpose  of  rendering  our  state 
ments  more  clear  and  authoritative,  we  shall  quote,  from 
Blodgett's  Climatology,  some  data  showing  the  mean 
annual  precipitation  of  rain  and  melted  snow  at  a  few 
points  in  the  United  States  : 


METEOROLOGY. 


287 


MEAN  ANNUAL  PRECIPITATION  OF  RAIN  AND  MELTED  SNOW. 


MOKTH. 

STATIONS. 

Fort  Brooke, 
Florida.* 

Fort  Meyers, 
Florida.t 

Charleston. 

Philadelphia. 

January.  .  . 

2.20 

3.90 

2.33 

3.00 

February... 
Marcli 

3.01 
3.3T 
1.95 
3.24 
7.04 
11.10 
10.10 

2.16 
4.60 
3.14 
3.33 
14.59 
8.45 
8.51 

3.39 
3.02 
1.72 
3.66 
5.00 
6.15 
7.53 

2.94 
3.43 
3.64 
3.90 
3.51 
4.22 
4.67 

April    

May.. 

June         .  . 

July 

August.  .  .  . 

September. 

6.23 

9.45 

6.31 

3.53 

October,  .  .  . 

2.40 

1.37 

3.04 

3.18 

November. 

2.00 

0.96 

2.23 

3.36 

December.. 

2.83 

2.27 

3.68 

4.03 

Spring.  .  .  . 

8.56 

11.07 

8.60 

10.97 

Summer.  .  . 

28.24 

31.61 

18.03 

12.45 

Autumn.  .  . 

10.63 

11.90 

11.61 

10.07 

Winter  
Year 

8.04 
55.47 

8.33 
62.91 

9.40 

48.29 

10.06 
45.56 

*  Fort  Brooke  is  at  Tampa  Bay,  Florida. 

t  Fort  Meyers  is  on  the  Caloosahatchie  River,  Florida. 


288  SOUTH-WEST   FLOKIDA. 

To  tnose  contemplating  a  charge  of  location,  more 
especially  if  they  intend  engaging  in  the  cultivation  of 
the  soil,  we  would  urge  the  advisability  of  considering  cli 
matic  conditions,  as  tending  to  health,  longevity,  bodily 
comforts,  and  pecuniary  results.  We  often  hear  the 
objection  urged  that  the  climate  of  Florida  is  enervating 
and  debilitating,  and  that  people  settling  there  become 
lazy  as  a  sequence  of  climatic  conditions.  We  admit 
that  an  excessively  high  thermometric  range  associated 
with  a  close  moist  atmosphere,  will  relax  and  debilitate 
the  human  system,  but  these  conditions  do  not  exist  in 
south-west  Florida  ;  and  the  emigrant  will  not  become 
indolent  unless  he  is  constitutionally  lazy.  The  resi 
dents  of  the  South  are  often  referred  to  as  wanting 
energy  and  perseverance ;  but  when  such  references  are 
made  we  must  remember  that,  during  the  reign  of  King 
Cotton,  to  labor  was  unfashionable,  and  that  slaves  were 
plenty  and  ever  ready  to  minister  to  the  wants  of  the 
white,  cither  adult  or  child.  Cynics,  who  are  ever  ready 
to  assail  the  South  and  Southerners,  must  remember 
that  the  male  portion  of  our  Northern  population  have 
been  educated  to  some  calling  in  early  life — that  labor 
and  activity  have  become  a  second  nature  with  them. 
Education  has  more  to  do  with  active  habits  than  climate. 
We  often  hear  ungenerous  and  censorious  people  refer  to 
the  "indolent  nature  of  the  Southern  people,"  but  if 
they  bring  into  review  the  numbers  engaged  on  the  Con 
federate  side  during  the  late  unpleasantness,  and  the 
results  attained  by  a  comparatively  small  number  of  half- 
starved  and  half-armed  men,  they  will  be  forced  to  con 
fess  that  laziness  and  indolence  did  not  characterize  the 
Confederate  armies  from  '01  to  'G5.  In  the  South  to-day 
the  female  portion  of  the  population  have  accepted  the 


METEOROLOGY.  289 

situation,  placed  their  shoulders  to  the  wheel,  and  indus 
try  and  thrift  are  prominent.  Cynical  people,  who  wish 
to  find  indolence,  laziness,  and  false  pride  among  the 
female  sex,  need  not  extend  their  observations  any  further 
than  the  females  of  American  birth  in  the  Northern 
States — a  portion  of  the  world  where  industry  and  labor 
are  considered  disgraceful  by  a  majority  of  those  who 
were  intended  by  a  wise  and  beneficent  Creator  to 
become  helpmates  of  man.  In  our  many  wanderings  in 
the  Southern  States  we  have  met  with  numerous  Northern 
people  who,  after  years  of  residence  in  the  South  were 
as  active,  industrious,  and  enterprising  as  before  they 
left  a  more  inhospitable  climate.  I  am  prompted  to 
write  as  I,  do  in  consequence  of  having  daily  and  hourly 
listened  to  the  unkind,  unjust,  and  censorious  criticisms 
of  Northerners — persons  who  should  extend  the  hand  of 
sympathy  and  speak  words  of  kindness  to  a  suffering  and 
struggling  people.  I  am  a  Northerner,  but  must  confess 
that  I  am  disgusted  with  the  want  of  Christian  charity 
that  characterizes  many  bigoted  people  of  my  section  : 
"  Let  us  have  peace,"  and  to  bring  about  this  halcyon 
state  let  us  treat  the  Southern  people  as  we  would  be 
treated — extend  to  them  the  hand  of  brotherhood,  and 
use  words  of  sympathy  and  kindness,  instead  "of  censure 
and  words  of  reproach  and  condemnation.  To  those 
who  intend  visiting  the  South  as  tourists  or  sportsmen  I 
would  say,  "  Be  generous,  be  kind,  be  honest,  and  a  ( true 
Southern  welcome  '  and  unbounded  hospitality  will  greet 
you  everywhere,  from  the  mansion  to  the  palmetto  hut." 
In  our  Northern  States  we  have  thousands  of  persons 
who  are  suffering  from  rheumatic,  pulmonary,  and 
chronic  diseases,  whose  health  would  be  improved  and 
lives  prolonged,  if  they  could  be  induced  to  settle  in  the 


290  SOUTH-WEST    FLORIDA. 

genial  climate  of  Florida.  Independent  of  benefiting 
themselves,  the}7  would  advance  the  interests  of  the  ten 
der  branches  clinging  around  the  parent  stem. 

The  old  Romans  used  this  pregnant  expression : 
Inimicus  senilibus  liycms — "  Winter,  the  foe  of  the 
aged."  Modern  research  proves  its  correctness.  An 
eminent  statistician,  calculating  from  nearly  55,000  cases 
over  60  years  of  age,  discovered  the  startling  fact  that 
the  deaths  in  January  were  within  a  fraction  twice  as 
many  as  in  July.  Such  a  statement  reminds  us  of  the 
significant  expression  of  another  distinguished  observer, 
who  had  closely  studied  the  relation  of  mortality  and 
temperature,  and  wrote  :  "  Waves  of  heat  arc  waves  of 
life  ;  and  waves  of  cold  are  waves  of  death." 

I  am  fully  prepared  to  admit  that  some  localities  in 
the  State  are  very  unhealthy,  and  that  malarious  diseases 
occur  to  a  great  extent  in  certain  portions  of  the  State  ; 
but  I  likewise  contend  that  certain  sections  of  the  State 
cannot  be  equalled  by  any  portion  of  the  world  for 
healthfullness  ;  and  some  of  the  latter  localities  will  be 
found  on  the  south-west  coast. 

Army  returns  are  generally  the  most  reliable,  and 
exceedingly  important  when  we  came  to  estimate  the 
sanitary  advantages  of  any  given  section.  During  the 
Florida  war  the  soldiers  were  exposed  at  all  seasons  in 
various  portions  of  the  State,  and  only  those  who  have 
visited  the  peninsula  can  form  any  idea  of  how  terribly 
arduous  must  be  campaigning  through  the  swamps  and 
everglades  of  the  State.  Yet,  according  to  the  army 
medical  statistics,  the  yearly  mortality  from  diseases  in 
the  army  there,  was  only  20  per  1,000  ;  and  the  average 
of  the  army  elsewhere  was  35  per  1,000  ;  while  in  Texas 
it  rose  to  50,  and  on  the  lower  Mississippi  to  44  per  1,000. 


PUHTA   RASSA   TO   CALOOSAIIATCHIE.  291 


5. — PUNTA  RASSA  TO  OALOOSAHATCHIE. 

E]$r  ROUTE  we  were  repeatedly  assured  that  we  need 
not  encumber  our  boat  with  a  large  stock  of  provisions, 
as  a  fresh  supply  could  be  purchased  at  old  Lanier's 
store,  at  Fort  Meyers.  Early  the  next  morning  after  our 
arrival  I  visited  the  store  for  the  purpose  of  adding  to 
our  stock  of  hard  tack,  but  found  a  total  absence  of  the 
staff  of  life.  Fearful  that  our  supply  of  sugar  would 
give  out,  I  purchased  four  pounds,  for  which  I  paid  one 
dollar.  One  of  the  residents  kindly  spared  me  one 
bushel  of  potatoes,  and  I  paid  therefor  one  dollar. 

At  this  point  I  met  Dr.  McCallam,  formerly  of  South 
Carolina,  but  who  has  settled  thirty-five  miles  farther 
up  the  river.  This  gentleman  informed  me  that  he  had 
half  a  barrel  of  flour  at  his  camp,  and  if  I  would  accept  a 
portion,  it  was  at  my  disposal  when  I  reached  his  palmetto 
hut.  Here  was  an  awkward  position — a  limited  supply 
of  bread-stuff  to  carry  us  through  a  long  journey,  and 
none  to  be  obtained  nearer  than  Manatee  ;  but  we  could 
not  consent  to  impose  on  the  Doctor,  and  leave  him  short 
of  flour,  so  we  concluded  to  go  for  the  sweet  potatoes, 
and  hurry  over  our  route. 

To  any  one  attempting  a  trip  to  Charlotte  Harbor,  or 
up  the  river,  I  would  say,  Carry,  or  have  transported  by 
the  steamer  Emilie  to  Punta  Rassa,  a  sufficient  supply  of 
provisions  for  the  return  trip.  They  can  be  stored  at 
the  telegraph  station  until  wanted.  Uncle  Sam  has 
not  supplied  the  residents  above  Punta  Rassa  with  mail 
facilities,  and  advantage  is  taken  of  every  opportunity 
to  forward  letters  and  papers  to  persons  residing  on  the 
river.  Dr.  McCallam  requested  us  to  take  charge  of 


292  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

the  letters  and  papers  addressed  to  persons  at  or  near 
his  settlement,  and  we  of  course  consented. 

Anxious  to  reach  our  objective  point,  we  left  the  fort 
at  eight  A.  M.  Commencing  three  miles  above  the  fort, 
for  a  distance  of  nearly  three  miles  the  navigation  is 
rendered  difficult  by  islands  and  mud  banks.  At  the 
lower,  or  west  end,  of  the  first  island  an  extensive  mud 
bank  will  be  found,  and  the  channel  will  be  discovered  on 
its  north  side,  near  the  northern  bank  of  the  river.  Soon 
after  entering  the  channel  several  stakes  will  be  noticed 
on  the  port  side,  and  one  on  the  starboard  side  of  the 
channel.  Opposite  the  upper  end,  and  to  the  north  of  the 
first  island,  a  small  circular  one  will  be  discovered,  which 
must  be  left  to  starboard.  The  next  two  islands  must  be 
kept  to  port,  when  a  projecting  point,  studded,  with  tall 
cabbage  palmettoes,  will  be  sighted  on  the  northern  bank 
of  the  river.  Beyond  this  point  another  island  will  be 
observed,  which  must  be  left  on  the  port  side.  If  atten 
tion  is  paid  to  these  directions,  and  the  shallow  water  011 
either  hand  of  the  channel  looked  for,  no  great  difficulty 
will  be  experienced  in  navigating  this  troublesome  local 
ity.  Above  the  upper  island,  navigation  is  easy  to  Fort 
Thompson.  The  river  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  upper 
islands  is  famous  for  its  well-developed  alligators.  We 
devoted  about  an  hour  to  their  destruction,  and  killed 
eight — the  smallest  of  which  measured  over  ten  feet. 
Above  the  islands  the  river  narrows  to  a  few  hundred 
feet,  and  somewhat  resembles  the  St.  Johns  above  the 
Devil's  Elbow.  To  within  about  two  miles  of  the  tele 
graph  station  the  banks  are  low,  and  arc  covered  with 
mangrove  bushes,  cabbage  palmetto,  and  live-oak  trees, 
with  an  undergrowth  of  ferns,  some  of  the  fronds  meas 
uring  eight  feet  in  length.  If  the  tourist  is  a  disciple  of 


PUNTA   KASSA  TO   CALOOSAIIATCHIE.  293 

old  Isaac  we  would  advise  him  to  drop  a  strongly  geared 
spinner  overboard  after  leaving  the  islands,  for  if  disposed 
he  can  have  his  time  fully  occupied  in  landing  cavalli 
ranging  from  two  to  twenty  pounds.  During  our  ascent 
of  this  stream  we  daily  and  hourly  regretted  the  absence 
of  a  Grains  (fishing  spear),  for  we  felt  tempted  to  capture 
some  of  the  large  pompano  that  exist  in  countless  num 
bers  in  this  stream.  We  have  seen  a  dozen  of  these 
huge  fellows  "breaking  water"  at  once  within  fifty 
yards  of  the  boat,  but  as  they  refused  a  bait  their  cap 
ture  was  impossible. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  the  Caloosa- 
hatchie  telegraph  station,  forty  miles  from  Punta  Kassa. 
At  this  point  the  line  crosses  the  river,  and  the  wanderer 
can  communicate  with  home  for  the  remarkably  low 
price  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  cents.  We  received  more 
than  a. hearty  welcome  from  the  gentlemanly  operator  in 
charge.  Disposed  to  keep  our  teeth  moving,  we  pur 
chased  from  this  gentleman  two  bushels  of  excellent 
sweet  potatoes.  Here  we  met  a  son  of  old  Ireland,  and 
were  favored  with  a  true  Hibernian  welcome,  and  an 
invitation  to  visit  his  residence  and  see  the  "  ould  woman 
and  the  bairns."  He  stated  that  he  had  two  acres  of 
superior  sugar-cane  under  cultivation,  and  that  he  was 
about  to  make  his  first  attempt  at  the  manufacture  of 
sugar.  He  assured  us  that  if  we  would  favor  him  with 
a  visit  he  would  present  us  with  stalks  of  sugar-cane 
fourteen  feet  long.  Ascertaining  that  his  residence  was 
two  miles  distant,  we  were  forced  to  decline.  The  pop 
ulation  of  the  locality  consists  of  three  families,  includ 
ing  that  of  the  operator  and  our  Irish  friend.  Irishmen 
are  to  be  found  everywhere,  and  are  ever  ready  to  ex 
tend  the  hand  of  welcome  to  the  wanderer.  We  deeply 


294  SOUTH-WEST  FLORIDA. 

regretted  that  we  could  not  visit  our  new-made  acquaint 
ance  and  discuss  at  his  ingle-side  the  merits  of  the  Cove 
of  Cork  and  the  demerits  of  the  Ould  Head  of  Kinsalc  ; 
but  the  bareness  (not  of  our  exchequer)  of  our  bread 
box  stimulated  us  to  push  ahead.  After  supper,  we 
fried  a  supply  of  sweet  potatoes  for  the  next  day,  and 
left  our  water  keg  with  the  operator.  At  this  point  the 
water  was  almost  fresh,  and  we  deemed  it  best  to  make 
room  in  our  crowded  boat. 

Dr.  McCallam's  clearing  being  twenty  miles  farther 
up  the  river,  we  made  an  early  start  the  next  morning 
after  our  arrival.  During  the  day  we  amused  ourselves 
beating  and  rowing  up  the  tortuous  channel.  Above 
the  Caloosahatchie  telegraph  station  the  banks  of  the 
river  become  higher,  and  are  studded  with  live-oaks  and 
majestic  palms.  For  miles  in  many  places  the  banks 
are  nearly  perpendicular,  and  range  from  ten  to  eighteen 
feet  high.  On  each  bank,  rich  high  hammocks  extend 
back  from  the  river  for  a  distance  of  one-quarter  to  one- 
half  a  mile.  Back  of  the  hammocks  rich  pine  land  will 
be  found,  and  beyond  this  the  open  prairie  country, 
which  will  be  described  at  some  future  time.  Above  the 
telegraph  station  the  intending  emigrant  will  find  an 
admirable  climate,  excellent  health,  superior  land,  a 
noble  river,  and  everything  to  induce  a  man  to  settle. 
The  day  is  not  far  distant  when  this  river  will  be  bounded 
with  happy  homes,  orange  groves,  farm  and  tropical 
productions,  and  the  evidences  of  education,  Christianity 
and  civilization.  AVe  have  at  various  times  visited 
almost  every  portion  of  Florida,  from  the  Appalachicola 
to  the  Atlantic,  and  from  the  Gulf  to  the  northern 
boundary  of  the  State,  and  we  are  forced  to  give  this 
section  our  unqualified  recommendation  as  the  most 


PUNTA   RASSA  TO  CALOOSAHATCHIE.  295 

desirable  place  for  the  pioneer.  I  admit  that  the  region 
is  wild  and  unfrequented,  but  the  time  is  near  when  the 
river  will  be  navigated  by  steamers,  and  residences, 
school  houses,  and  churches  will  arise  as  if  by  magic. 

Night  overtook  us,  and  as  we  were  anxious  to  reach 
Dr.  McCall  tun's  residence  we  furled  our  sail  and  resorted 
to  an  ashen  breeze.  We  had  rowed  but  a  short  distance 
when  we  heard  the  welcome  bark  of  a  dog,  and  soon 
after,  the  pleasant  sound  of  human  voices.  We  hailed, 
and  were  met  at  the  landing  by  five  human  beings.  The 
welcome  we  received  in  this  wild  spot  will  long  be  remem 
bered.  We  found  one  gentleman  from  New  York,  who 
had  settled  on  a  section  next  to  that  of  Dr.  McCallam's, 
and  four  from  Rahway,  New  Jersey,  two  miles  above,  at 
Camellia  Point.  We  announced  the  fact  that  we  carried 
the  mail,  and  the  joyous  shouts  that  arose  on  that 
river  when  the  settlers  received  letters  and  newspapers 
f  rotn  home,  beggars  all  description.  Aware  of  the  fact  that 
Dr.  McCallam  and  his  companion  in  this  wilderness  had 
but  a  limited  supply  of  the  necessaries  of  life,  we  posi 
tively  declined  a  pressing  invitation  to  stop  and  partake 
of  the  hospitalities  of  his  backwoods  home.  As  soon  as 
we  announced  our  intention  of  proceeding  to  the  Jersey 
settlement,  the  Jerseymen  pocketed  letters  and  papers 
and  followed  us  to  the  river  bank.  They  took  our  boat  in 
tow,  and  while  rowing  and  paddling  they  yelled  and 
laughed  as  joyous  men  never  laughed  and  yelled  before. 
After  proceeding  two  miles  we  reached  their  camp,  and 
landed.  We  found  them  comfortably  settled  in  a  pal 
metto  hut,  and  apparently  more  than  pleased  Avith  their 
new  home.  We  started  early  the  next  morning,  and 
were  escorted  for  several  miles  by  our  new  friends.  It 
is  a  gratification  to  the  wanderer  to  meet  with  a  wel- 


29G  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

come  in  the  wilderness,  and  annoying  to  refuse  hos 
pitality  when  kindly  and  courteously  tendered. 

During  the  course  of  the  forenoon  we  sighted  a 
"  'gator  "  about  seven  feet  long,  reclining  on  a  grassy  bank 
enjoying  the  sunshine.  I  handed  Harry  my  Winchester, 
and  requested  him  to  shoot.  He  did  so,  and  the  'gator 
quivered  and  dropped  his  head.  Harry  expressed  satis 
faction  at  the  result  of  his  maiden  shot,  and  wondered 
what  effect  had  been  produced  by  the  ball.  I  suggested 
that  we  should  land  and  examine  the  critter.  We  did 
so,  and  Harry  seized  the  brute  by  the  tail  and  attempted 
to  turn  him  over.  Like  a  flash  the  dead  'gator  doubled  on 
himself,  and  endeavored  to  seize  him  by  the  hand.  As  a 
result,  the  pair  stepped  into  the  river,  and  the  celerity 
with  which  Harry  scrambled  up  the  bank  will  never  be 
forgotten  by  those  who  witnessed  it.  Before  the  ugly 
customer  could  get  away,  I  gave  him  a  pill  in  his  brain, 
and  he  turned  his  paws  heavenward.  Thus  ended  the 
only  'gator  scrape  worthy  of  record. 

As  we  proceeded,  the  river  gradually  narrowed,  and 
above  the  former  site  of  Fort  Donaud  the  overhanging 
live-oaks  gave  us  some  trouble.  Still  farther  up  the  river, 
we  met  with  shallows  and  annoying  sand-bars  and  drift 
logs.  Having  rowed  all  day,  we  found  ourselves  tired  at 
five  P.  M.,  and  came  to  an  anchor. 


6. — UP  THE  CALOOSAHATCHIE. 

TJTE  annual  rain-fall  of  South-west  Florida  is  about 
sixty-five  inches,  but  during  the  year  1874  the  amount 
was  but  a  fraction  over  thirty-one  inches.  In  conse- 


UP  THE   CALOOSAHATCIIIE.  297 

quence,  the  river  (Caloosaliatchie)  was  nearly  two  feet 
lower  than  ever  before  known.  Under  ordinary  con 
ditions  the  river  can  be  navigated  to  the  rapids  by  a 
stern-wheeler  with  a  light  draught  of  water.  Above  the 
Caloosaliatchie  telegraph  station  the  wanderer  can  at 
all  times  fill  his  frying-pan  with  luscious  trout  (bass). 
Before  leaving  Philadelphia,  Shipley  &  Son  made  for  us 
an  eighteen-foot  bamboo  rod,  which  we  found  admirably 
adapted  to  fishing  in  the  streams  visited.  With  such  a 
rod,  and  a  few  feet  of  line,  the  piscator  can  fish  around 
the  tops,  fallen  logs,  and  lily-pads,  without  any  danger 
of  fouling  his  bob  or  spinner. 

As  we  were  anxious  to  reach  the  rapids  at  Fort 
Thompson,  the  rising  sun  found  us  moving.  Harry  was 
aft,  using  the  setting  pole,  and  Frank  and  I  manufac 
tured  an  ashen  breeze.  Then  we  ascended  the  tortuous 
channel  until  night.  Soon  after  camping  we  fancied 
that  we  heard  a  dog  bark,  and  having  seen  no  chasing, 
or  evidence  of  settlement  after  leaving  hospitable 
"Jerseydom,"  we  were  anxious  to  obtain  information 
regarding  our  whereabouts.  To  attract  attention,  I  dis 
charged  my  gun,  and  Frank  followed  with  his  revolver. 
We  listened,  but  no  answer  was  returned.  Early  next 
morning  my  attention  was  attracted  by  the  cracking  of 
brush,  and  on  looking  shoreward,  I  noticed  a  white  man 
peeping  through  the  bushes.  I  hailed  him,  and  on 
inquiry  ascertained  that  his  name  was  Cross,  and  that 
he  had  recently  settled  on  a  point  a  short  distance  above. 
He  stated  that  he  had  heard  the  report  of  our  fire-arms, 
but  fancied  "  that  it  was  the  accursed  Indians  shooting, 
and  in  consequence  he  had  not  slept  during  the  night." 
He  expressed  it  as  his  opinion  "that  they  would  rise, 
and  that  another  Indian  war  was  in  prospect."  He 
13* 


298  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

favored  us  with  his  views  of  the  (C  pesky  critters,"  and 
assured  us  that  they  were  a  lazy,  dirty,  treacherous,  and 
thieving  lot,  and  that  the  whole  race  should  be  extermi 
nated."  Our  visitor  informed  us  that  the  Indian  camp 
at  Fort  Thompson  was  distant  three  miles  by  land,  and 
nine  by  the  course  of  the  river.  We  bade  our  friend 
good-by,  and  applied  our  muscles  'to  oars  and  setting 
pole.  He  preceded  us  by  land,  and  unwisely  informed 
the  Indians  that  some  white  men  were  coming  up  the 
river,  armed  with  sixteen-shooting  guns,  with  the  inten 
tion  of  exterminating  all  the  Indians  about  Lake  Okee- 
chobee.  At  9  A.  M.  we  grounded  the  bow  of  the  boat 
Spray  on  the  northern  bank  of  the  river  below  the 
falls.  A  few  minutes  afterward  we  discovered  four 
Indians  approaching,  armed  with  rifles  and  long  butcher 
knives.  From  their  manner  we  fancied  that  there  was 
a  "screw  loose  in  their  celestial  machinery,"  As  they 
neared  the  boat  I  landed  and  shook  hands  with  all.  To 
my  surprise  they  manifested  sullenness  and  an  indispo 
sition  to  be  friendly  or  communicative.  Soon  after,  a 
squaw,  and  several  young  feminine  representatives  of 
poor  Lo,  approached,  to  whom  I  presented  ear-rings, 
beads,  and  breast-pins,  costing  $1  per  half-dozen  sets. 
These  presents  exerted  a  happy  influence,  and  the 
niasculine  Los  expressed  a  wish  to  inspect  our  fire-arms. 
We  exhibited  our  breech-loading  arms  and  ammunition, 
which  seemed  to  surprise  them.  All  seemed  to  be  new 
to  them,  and  they  expressed  their  surprise  by  remarking 
"Indian's  rifles  holywagus"  (no  good). 

An  examination  of  Drew's  and  Cqlton's  maps  will 
show  a  large  lake  existing  at  Fqrt  Thompson,  and  another 
some  miles  east,  named  Ilickpockee.  These  bodies  of 
water  only  exist  in  the  imagination  of  map-makers.  As 


UP  THE   CALOOSAIIATCHIE.  299 

far  as  South-west  Florida  is  concerned,  maps  are  to  a 
great  extent  unreliable,  and  calculated  to  mislead  tourists. 
Fort  Thompson  was  a  large  and  important  station 
during  the  Indian  wars,  but  at  present  only  a  few  de 
cayed  stubs  exist  to  indicate  where  a  stockade  once  pro 
tected  scores  of  valiant  men.  Surrounding  the  falls,  a 
rich  prairie  of  500  acres  exists,  covered  with  a  luxurious 
growth  of  succulent  and  nutritious  grasses — the  site  of 
a  lake,  according  to  the  unreliable  map-makers.  We 
instituted  many  inquiries  of  Indians,  settlers,  and  cattle 
drivers  regarding  Lake  Hickpockee,  but  all  scouted  the 
idea  of  its  existence.  On  the  north  side  of  the  river, 
and  about  600  feet  therefrom,  a  grove  of  huge  live-oaks 
exist,  under  whose  protecting  branches  the  Indians  en 
camp  during  the  winter  months,  when  on  their  annual 
hunt.  The  region  is  underlaid  with  a  horizontal  stratum 
of  hard  limestone  rock,  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches 
thick,  and  beneath  this  a  softer  stratum  containing  an 
immense  number  of  shells.  The  river  has  worn  a  pas 
sage  through  the  hard  superficial  layer  of  rock  at  this 
point,  forming  the  rapids  or  falls  of  the  Caloosahatchie 
river.  We  found  the  water  to  fall  about  five  feet  in 
two  hundred.  The  channel  at  the  rapids  is  about  fifteen 
feet  wide,  and  within  a  few  inches  of  the  surface  we 
discovered  numerous  sharp-pointed  rocks,  over  which 
we  found  it  impossible  to  drag  the  Spray  to  the  deep 
and  smooth  waters  above.  We  noticed  an  Indian  dug 
out,  above  the  rapids,  and  at  once  visited  Lo's  camp  to 
make  arrangements  for  an  exploration  of  the  river  above 
the  falls.  By  signs  and  words  we  communicated  our 
wishes,  but  were  informed  that  "  canoe  belonged  to  med 
icine  man  ;  he  gone  Big  Cypress.  Indian  no  use  him 
canoe."  Here  was  an  awkward  position,  and  Harry  and 


300  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

I  resolved  on  an  exploration  on  foot.  We  started  on 
the  south  bank  of  the  river,  but  after  floundering  for  a 
mile  and  a  half  through  mud,  water,  cane-brakes,  and 
saw-grass,  we  were  forced  to  retreat.  On  my  return  I 
took  my  Shipley  rod  and  went  for  a  mess  of  fish.  In  a 
few  minutes  I  landed  two  cavalli  averaging  four  pounds, 
and  five  trout  from  one  to  seven  pounds.  In  the  after 
noon  we  were  gratified  at  seeing  the  face  of  a  white  man, 
and  found  that  our  visitor  was  named  Caiiton,  who 
resided  about  two  miles  to  the  north  of  the  fort.  We 
expressed  a  wish  to  haul  our  boat  around  the  rapids  on 
skids  find  rollers,  and  Mr.  Carlton  kindly  volunteered 
his  assistance,  and  assured  us  that  he  would  induce  two 
more  recent  settlers  to  aid  us.  During  the  latter  part 
of  the  afternoon  we  took  a  survey  of  the  difficulties  to 
be  encountered,  and  provided  skids,  etc.,  to  transport 
our  boat  around  the  rapids. 

In  the  evening,  one  of  the  Indians,  named  Jimmy, 
visited  us,  and  we  eventually  arranged  with  him  to  take 
the  medicine  man's  canoe  and  paddle  us  up  the  river. 
Early  on  the  morning  of  January  1st,  in  company  with 
Harry  and  Indian  Jimmy,  I  commenced  an  examination 
of  the  river  above  the  falls.  We  had  not  proceeded  over 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  before  we  found  a  channel  averaging 
sixty  feet  wide  and  six  in  depth.  To  say  that  it  swarmed 
with  numerous  species  of  fish  would  not  do  justice  to 
this  stream.  On  the  shores  large  alligators  occupied  the 
banks,  and  ducks,  coots,  yellow-legged  snipe,  curlews, 
cranes,  herons,  water  turkeys,  and  other  birds  existed  in 
countless  numbers.  My  imagination  painted  a  channel 
leading  into  the  Lake  Okcechobce,  and  that  I  should  be 
favored  with  a  view  of  this  body  of  water.  But  disap 
pointment  was  ahead,  We  had  barely  proceeded  three 


UP  THE   CALOOSAHATCIIIE.  301 

miles  when  we  found  the  channel  to  end  in  a  broad 
expanse  of  saw-grass.  A  careful  examination  revealed 
about  two  inches  of  water  and  three  of  tenacious  black 
mud  overlying  the  horizontal  layer  of  limestone  rock. 
Pocketing  our  disappointment,  we  turned  the  bow  of  the 
canoe  campward.  From  our  own  observations,  and  from 
such  information  as  I  could  collect  from  cattle-raisers, 
herdsmen,  and  Indians,  I  am  convinced  that  my  pre 
conceived  opinions  are  correct — that  the  Caloosahatchie 
river  is  the  main  outlet  of  Lake  Okeechobee.  I  am  sat 
isfied  that  the  lake  is  not  more  than  eight  miles  in  an 
easterly  direction  from  Fort  Thompson,  and  that  it 
can  be  reached  by  a  light  flat-bottomed  boat  at  an  ordi 
nary  stage  of  water.  The  Indians  would  not  explain 
how  the  medicine  man  had  transported  his  canoe  from 
the  lake  to  the  fort ;  but  as  no  other  route  exists,  he 
must  have  brought  it  by  the  course  of  the  river  before 
the  water  became  as  low  as  we  found  it. 

On  our  return,  we  found  Mr.  Carlton  and  his  two 
friends  ready  to  assist  us  in  hauling  our  boat  around  the 
rapids  ;  but  as  we  had  explored  the  river,  we  politely 
declined  accepting  their  kind  assistance.  Upon  inquiry, 
I  found  that  Mr.  Carlton  had  a  wagon  and  a  team  of 
bullocks,  and  my  first  idea  was  to  transport  the  Spray 
to  Fish  Eating  creek,  a  distance  of  fourteen  miles, 
descend  the  creek,  circumnavigate  the  lake,  ascend  the 
Kissimmee,  and  return  via  the  St.  Johns  river  to  Jack 
sonville.  Upon  questioning  Mr.  C.,  I  found  that  his 
wagon  was  not  broad  enough  for  the  Spray,  and  that 
it  would  be  necessary  to  construct  a  new  pair  of  axletrees 
for  the  purpose.  The  delay  attending  this  arrangement, 
and  our  short  stock  of  provisions,  induced  us  to  abandon 
it.  Mr.  Carlton  had  a  pow-wow  with  the  Indians,  and 


302  SOUTH-WEST    FLORIDA. 

ascertained  that  they  had  three  canoes  at  Old  Fort 
Centre,  on  Fish  Eating  creek.  Mr.  C.  finally  induced 
Billy  Osceola  to  accompany  us,  and  we  arranged  to  start 
the  next  morning  for  the  lake.  Mr.  C.  returned  home 
to  prepare  for  the  journey,  and  we  amused  ourselves  by 
visiting  the  Indian  camp.  One  peculiarity  of  the  femi 
nine  Lo  is  a  love  for  heads,  and  instead  of  decorating  her 
self  with  panniers,  laces,  furbelows,  and  false  hair,  she 
goes  in  for  glass.  After  some  persuasion,  and  amid 
peals  of  laughter,  we  induced  a  squaw  of  sweet  sixteen 
to  divest  herself  of  her  neck  ornaments.  When  the 
operation  was  completed  we  had  suspended  on  our  arm 
forty-six  strings  of  large  glass  beads,  weighing,  at  the 
loAvest  estimate,  ten  pounds.  The  only  article  of  dress 
worn  by  the  juvenile  representatives  of  Eve  was  a  few 
strings  of  beads.  The  ciress  of  masculine  Lo  wras,  to 
use  a  novelist  ic  expression,  picturesque  and  romantic  hi 
the  extreme.  Their  head-dress  consists  of  from  four  to 
five  small  woollen  shawls,  costing  two  dollars  and  a  half 
apiece.  To  arrange  this  capital  encumbrance,  Lo  folds 
a  shawl  four  inches  wide,  places  the  initial  end  on  the 
forehead,  winds  the  folded  shawl  tightly  around  the  head, 
and  tucks  the  outer  end  under  the  first  coil.  This  pro 
cedure  is  followed  with  each  shawl  until  the  horizontal 
and  ridiculous-looking  structure  is  completed.  They  all 
wear  calico  shirts,  with  gray  vests  ;  and  these  garments, 
with  breech  cloths,  completed  the  dress  of  our  new 
acquaintances. 

Early  next  morning  found  us  under  way  for  Lake 
Okeechobec,  in  company  with  Mr.  Carlton  and  Billy 
Osceola.  We  followed  an  old  wagon  trail  leading  to  Old 
Fort  Centre,  on  Fisk  Eating  creek.  This  trail  had  been 
made  during  the  Indian  wars,  since  which  time  it  has 


UP  THE   CALOOSAHATCHIE.  303 

been  followed  by  settlers,  cattle- raisers,  and  cattle ,  Mid 
day  found  us  near  the  dry  bed  of  a  summer  water-course, 
where  we  camped  for  dinner.  I  took  a  spade  and  dug  a 
shallow  hole,  from  which  we  obtained  water  for  coffee. 
After  eating,  I  seated  myself  in  the  centre  of  the  trail  to 
enjoy  my  old  pipe.  Frank  laid  himself  down  a  few  feet 
from  me,  and  almost  instantly  jumped  up,  with  an  exclam 
ation.  His  fright  was  easily  accounted  for,  for  we  heard 
the  warning  rattle  of  the  death-dealing  snake,  within 
reach  of  whose  fangs  he  had  reclined.  He  seized  his 
rifle  and  fired,  but  excitement  spoiled  his  aim  ;  he  then 
used  his  revolver,  and  with  the  last  chamber  wounded 
his  snakeship.  In  the  interim  one  of  the  party  pro 
vided  himself  with  a  stick,  and  soon  finished  the  rat 
tler.  Frank  claimed  the  rattles,  which,  upon  removal, 
numbered  eight  and  a  button. 

After  our  encounter  with  the  snake  we  hitched  up 
the  oxen  and  started  for  the  lake.  Night  found  us  four 
miles  from  the  large  mound  at  Old  Fort  Centre.  Here 
we  camped,  and  were  favored  with  the  bellowing  of  an 
ancient  alligator  in  an  adjoining  swamp.  Early  next 
morning  found  us  following  the  trail,  and  at  8  A.  M.  we 
reached  Old  Fort  Centre.  Leaving  Mr.  Carl  ton  to  take 
care  of  the  bullocks,  we  soon  found  an  Indian  canoe  and 
started  for  the  lake,  distant,  according  to  the  statement 
of  our  guide,  four  miles.  We  forced  our  way  through 
several  extensive  beds  of  the  floating  lettuce,  and  after 
poling  and  paddling  for  two  miles,  reached  a  continuous 
bed  of  this  plant.  We  were  provided  with  two  paddles 
and  a  pushing  pole  sixteen  feet  long.  The  banks  of  the 
creek  were  perpendicular,  and  the  water  from  twelve  to 
fourteen  feet  deep.  In  this  stream  the  lettuce  was 
larger  and  more  luxuriant  than  any  we  had  ever  seen  in 


304  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

the  State.  The  roots  were  very  long  and  perfectly 
matted,  and  we  endeavored  to  force  a  passage  through 
the  obstruction,  but  might  as  well  have  tried  to  paddle 
or  pole  our  canoe  through  one  of  the  Xew  York  docks. 
For  many  years  I  had  looked  forward  with  pleasure  to  the 
day  when  I  should  visit  Okeechobec,  and  nothing  but 
disappointment  loomed  up  before  me.  To  force  a  pas 
sage  for  several  miles  through  the  lettuce  we  found  to 
be  impossible,  and  after  considering  the  matter  I  re 
solved  to  reach  the  lake  by  wading  and  wallowing 
through  the  water,  mud,  and  saw-grass  of  the  swamps 
between  me  and  the  lake,  and  accordingly  hauled  the 
canoe  ashore. 

Had  I  been  aware  of  the  difficulties  to  be  encoun 
tered,  I  have  reason  to  believe  that  I  could  have  sur 
mounted  them,  and  reached  the  lake  by  the  course  of 
the  creek.  If  I  should  again  visit  Fish  Eating  creek  I 
would  provide  myself  with  two  hooked  sticks  about 
twelve  feet  long.  If  one  man  was  stationed  on  each 
side  of  the  canoe,  say  ten  feet  from  the  stern,  and  the 
two  to  hook  into  the  lettuce  on  each  side  of  the  stern, 
and  make  traction  toward  the  stern,  we  are  convinced 
that  such  a  manoeuvre  would  make  a  passage  for  a  canoe  ; 
and  the  force  applied  would  propel  her  ahead.  From 
our  knowledge  of  the  growth,  and  the  difficulties  to  be 
encountered  in  forcing  a  passage  through  such  an 
obstruction,  we  would  advise  tourists  to  test  the  mode 
euggested. 


VISIT  TO   LAKE   OKEECHOBEE.  305 


7. — VISIT  TO  LAKE  OKEECHOBEE. 

WE  left  the  canoe  beached,  or,  more  properly  speak 
ing,  mudded,  on  the  north  side  of  Fish  Eating  creek, 
and  steered  a  course  for  what  we  considered  the  bank 
of  the  lake.  The  walking  we  found  excellent,  although 
not  equalling  that  of  Broadway.  Beginning  at  the 
surface  we  found  one  foot  of  water,  and  beneath  the 
aqueous  element  fifteen  inches  of  black,  tenacious  mud. 
Every  motion  of  the  legs  was  obstructed  by. lily-pads 
spatterdocks,  lettuce,  trailing  vines,  and  fresh-water 
plants  in  endless  yariety.  Above  the  water,  saw-grass, 
reeds,  and  rushes  seriously  interfered  with  vision  as  well 
motion.  Resolved  upon  reaching  the  lake,  our  grand 
objective  point,  we  trudged  on,  and  having  proceeded 
about  two  miles  reached  a  large  floating  island  that  had 
been  drifted  on  the  marsh  during  the  hurricane  of  the 
preceding  October.  Frank  seated  himself  on  the 
island  and  vowed  that  he  would  "proceed  no  farther.' 
When  youth  gave  out  and  cried  "peccavi,"  it  was  time 
for  old  fogydom  to  push  ahead,  so  I  laid  a  course  for 
a  small  tree,  on  what  appeared  to  have  been  a  floating 
island,  and  after  an  unpleasant  tramp  of  two  hundred 
yards  I  reached  the  oasis,  and  found  growing  upon  it  a 
swamp  oak  fifteen  feet  in  height.  By  signs  and  words  I 
directed  Billy  Osceola  to  ascend  the  oak  ;  he  did  so,  and 
shouted  "Okeechobee,  Okeechobee."  I  claim  no  rela 
tionship  to  the  feline  race,  but  the  way  I  scrambled  up 
that  juvenile  oak  was  a  caution  to  the  cat  family. 
Reaching  the  upper  branches,  I  was  rewarded  with  a 
view  of  the  mysterious  lake,  distant  about  six  hundred 
feet.  From  the  time  of  my  first  visit  to  the  south  coast 


30G  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

of  Florida, in  1874, 1  had  been  looking  forward  with  pleas 
ure  to  a  period  when  I  should  be  favored  with  a  view  of 
the  lake  ;  and  here  it  was  before  me.  My  great  desire 
was  to  navigate  and  thoroughly  examine  its  various  out 
lets,  and  if  possible  discover  a  practicable  boat  route  to  the 
ocean  ;  but  I  was  disappointed.  At  some  future  time,  if 
we  can  find  the  congenial  companions,  we  propose  reach 
ing  the  lake,  via  the  Ochlawaha  and  Kissimmee  rivers.  In 
an  ordinary  stage  of  water  we  are  convinced  that  a  boat 
could  be  navigated  through  the  marsh  between  the  lake 
and  the  rapids  on  the  Caloosahatchie.  But  to  the 
uninitiated  the  great  difficulty  would  be  to  determine  at 
what  particular  point  to  leave  the  lake. 

About  four  hundred  feet  from  the  shore  we  noticed  a 
very  large  cypress  tree,  which  would  prove  a  guide  for 
persons  searching  for  the  month  of  Fish  Eating  creek. 
From  what  we  could  ascertain  from  the  lay  of  the  land 
(or,  more  properly  speaking,  swamp),  and  from  the 
statements  of  Billy,  the  mouth  of  the  creek  is  south  of 
the  large  cypress  half  a  mile.  From  our  point  of  obser 
vation  the  lake  trended  to  the  south,  and  we  are  con 
vinced  that  in  a  direct  line  the  shore  of  the  lake  is 
distant  from  Fort  Thompson  not  over  eight  or  nine 
miles.  Having  gratified  our  curiosity  regarding  the 
lake,  and  accomplished  all  we  could,  under  the  circum 
stances,  we  started  on  the  home  stretch,  and  ultimately 
reached  the  canoe,  tired  and  exhausted.  We  would 
most  respectfully  recommend  a  five-mile  experience  of 
such  walking  to  Weston  when  lie  trains  for  one  of  his 
pedestrian  feats.  As  regards  "Al  Fresco,"  he  without 
the  least  hesitation  asserts  that  lie  has  had  enough  of 
Okeechobce  swamp  experience  to  last  him  a  life-time. 
We  have  wandered  iii  more  than  one  section  of  the 


VISIT  TO   LAKE   OKEECIIOBEE.  307 

world,  and  have  had  some  queer  experiences,,  but  our 
jaunt  from  the  creek  to  the  lake,  and  return,  excelled 
anything  in  the  past,  and  convinced  us  that  hunting 
Seminolc  Indians  must  have  been  anything  but  an 
amusing  and  pleasant  occupation. 

Reaching  the  canoe,  Billy  paddled,  and  Frank  and  I 
amused  ourselves  ventilating  the  'gators  that  exposed 
themselves  on  the  banks  of  the  creek.  Arriving  at  Old 
Fort  Centre,  I  visited  the  large  Indian  mound  while  Mr. 
Carlton  hitched  up  our  bovine  friends.  I  found  the 
mound  to  be  four  hundred  feet  long,  one  hundred  and 
fifty  wide,  and  about  forty  high.  At  a  point  where  some 
former  visitor  had  made  a  small  excavation  I  scratched 
with  a  stick  and  found  remains  of  human  skeletons.  In 
our  opinion,  this  mound  is  worthy  of  being  opened,  and 
I  trust  that  some  future  visitor  will  be  amply  provided 
with  stores,  so  as  to  enable  him  to  spend  a  few  days  in 
the  locality  and  carefully  examine  it.  With  the  excep 
tion  of  one  mound  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Caloosahatchie 
river,  this  is  the  largest  we  have  noticed  in  the  south. 
Seating  ourselves  in  our  springless  conveyance,  we 
started  for  New  Fort  Centre,  which  we  reached  about 
dark.  Feeling  tired,  I  resolved  upon  having  a  good  bed, 
and  by  the  light  of  pine-wood  fire  gathered  a  large  quan 
tity  of  the  Spanish  moss  (Tillanusia),  hanging  in  luxu 
riant  festoons  from  every  tree.  After  supper  I  carefully 
arranged  my  mossy  couch  and  turned  in.  Old  Somnus 
soon  took  possession  of  the  man,  and  I  have  reason  to 
believe  that  I  was  guilty  of  some  responsible  snoring 
until  about  midnight,  when  I  was  aroused  by  an  unpleas 
ant  sensation  of  burning,  smarting,  and  itching.  For  a 
few  minutes  I  made  the  situation  a  practical  study,  and 
realized  the  fact  that  I  had  discovered  something  new  to 


308  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

me  under  tlie  sun.  I  soon  ascertained  that  I  was  covered 
with  insects.  I  went  for  the  moss,  threw  it  out  of  the 
wagon,  and  selected  the  softest  board  to  finish  my  night's 
rest.  I  had  on  numerous  occasions  during  my  wander 
ings  suffered  from  the  effects  of  seed  and  ordinary  ticks, 
but  here  was  something  exceeding  all  my  past  experi 
ences  in  bug  operations.  To  sleep  was  impossible,  so  I 
devoted  the  remainder  of  the  night  to  scratching.  I  have 
read  of  the  patience  of  historic  Job,  but  I  have  reason  to 
believe  that  he  never  suffered  from  a  visitation  of  Florida 
"red  bugs."  Upon  inquiry,  I  was  informed  that  my 
attentive  and  industrious  visitors  were  called  red  bugs, 
and  were  only  to  be  found  on  the  Spanish  moss  in  the 
southern  portion  of  the  State.  Our  earnest  advice  to 
future  wanderers  is  to  give  mossy  couches  a  wide  berth. 

On  our  return  to  the  boat  we  prepared  a  saturating 
solution  of  common  salt,  and  with  it  sponged  several 
times  daily,  and  at  the  end  of  the  second  day  dissolved 
our  connection  with  Florida  red  bugs.  We  are  at  a  loss 
to  determine  exactly  what  effect  was  produced  on  the 
bugs  by  the  salt,  but  we  discovered  the  fact,  that  wher 
ever  we  had  removed  the  skin  by  scratching,  the  effect  of 
the  solution  was  anything  but  pleasant. 

Starting  before  old  Sol  appeared  above  the  eastern 
horizon,  we  reached  our  boats  at  four  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon.  South-west  of  the  lake,  nearly  to  the  shore 
of  Charlotte  harbor,  and  from  the  Caloosahatchie  river 
to  Peas  creek,  a  distance  of  sixty  miles,  the  sportsman 
will  find  a  beautiful  prairie,  clothed  with  luxuriant  and 
nutritious  grasses,  different  from  those  of  the  St.  Johns 
and  Atlantic  sections.  This  vast  expanse  of  hunting 
ground  is  dotted  witli  "  islands,"  that  is  to  say,  spots 
clothed  with  live-oaks  and  majestic  palms.  These 


VISIT  TO   LAKE   OKEECIIOBEE.  309 

islands  vary  from  a  few  square  rods  to  fifty  acres,  and 
here  and  there  will  be  found  small  belts  of  pine  timber, 
the  islands  and  belts  furnishing  ample  shelter  for 
game.  We  were  charmed  with  the  country,  and  deeply 
regretted  our  inability  to  camp  out  and  enjoy  a  few 
weeks'  hunting  in  the  neighborhood  of  Fish  Eating 
creek.  From  our  own  experience,  and  the  statements 
made  by  reliable  parties,  we  have  no  hesitation  in  assert 
ing  that  this  section  is  unequalled  by  any  portion  of  the 
United  States,  for  deer  hunting  or  turkey  shooting.  In 
crossing  the  prairie  from  New  Fort  Centre,  large  herds  of 
deer  were  frequently  visible  on  each  side  of  the  trail,  but 
the  effects  of  swamp  journeying,  and  a  night's  exercise 
fighting  red  bugs,  prevented  us  from  leaving  the  wagon 
and  attempting  to  shoot  a  deer.  Owing  to  the  inequality  of 
the  surface,  and  the  protection  afforded  by  the  tall  grass 
and  patches  of  saw  palmetto,  deer  can  be  approached 
without  difficulty.  At  the  period  of  our  visit  the 
Indians  were  on  their  annual  hunt  to  Fort  Thompson, 
and  a  large  proportion  of  the  deer  had  been  driven  to 
points  a  few  miles  distant.  Since  the  removal  of  the 
Seminoles,  deer  have  roamed  and  increased  on  the  prairie 
undisturbed.  As  an  evidence  of  the  superiority  of  this 
section  as  a  hunting  ground,  we  need  but  cite  the  fact 
that  the  Indians  residing  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  lake, 
and  in  the  Miami  region,  annually  visit  Fort  Thompson 
for  their  winter's  hunt.  With  the  exception  of  the  few 
annually  destroyed  in  the  neighborhood  of  Fort  Thomp 
son  by  poor  Lo,  deer  roam  undisturbed,  the  grasses  are 
nutritious,  climatic  conditions  favorable,  and,  as  a  con 
sequence,  the  amount  of  deer  in  this  section  is  fabulous. 
This  locality  is  truly  the  hujiter's  paradise,  and  must  be 
visited  to  be  appreciated.  I  have  no  hesitation  in  stating 


310  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

that  the  still  hunter  can  kill  from  ten  to  twelve  deer 
daily.  If  he  desires  variety,  he  will  find  numberless 
turkeys  on  the  banks  of  the  creek,  or  in  the  adjoin 
ing  islands  ;  or,  if  disposed  to  indulge  in  fishing,  all  that 
will  be  necessary  is  to  use  a  bob,  spinner,  or  fly,  and  he 
will  soon  tire  of  landing  the  largest  and  fattest  trout  in 
the  State. 

If  any  one  should  contemplate  a  visit  to  this  region 
we  would  recommend  as  a  site  for  his  camp  a  point  on 
the  creek  ten  or  fifteen  miles  west  of  Xew  Fort  Centre. 
To  reach  this  locality  the  sportsman  can  take  steamer  to 
Charleston,  Savannah,  or  Fernandina,  and  railroad  to 
Cedar  Keys  ;  or  steamer  from  Xew  York  to  Key  West. 
Punta  Rassa  can  be  reached  from  Cedar  Keys  or  Key 
West  by  steamer  Emilie,  sailing  weekly.  From  Punta 
Rassa  sportsmen  can  ascend  the  river  to  Fort  Thompson, 
or  take  a  bullock  dray  from  Fort  Meyers.  Mr.  Carlton 
resides  two  miles  north  of  Fort  Thompson,  and  for  $3 
per  day  will  furnish  a  conveyance  to  the  creek.  But  to 
find  Mr.  C.'s  residence  after  reaching  the  fort  would  be 
the  rub.  If  any  person  should  desire  his  assistance,  a 
few  simple  directions  might  prove  valuable.  Landing 
on  the  west  side  of  the  river  below  the  rapids,  a  north 
erly  course  must  be  kept,  leaving  the  river  to  the  right 
and  the  timber  to  the  left.  Two  miles  from  the  land 
ing-place  Mr.  Carlton's  residence  will  be  noticed  to  the 
left,  near  some  large  pine  timber.  Mr.  C.  will  be  found 
to  be  a  good  guide — kind,  sociable,  attentive,  and  mod 
erate  in  his  charges  ;  in  fact,  a  gentleman  whom  we  can 
unhesitatingly  recommend  to  the  favorable  notice  of 
sportsmen. 

With  regard  to  the  Indians,  we  have  only  to  state 
that,  after  the  first  few  days  we  found  them  sociable  and 


VISIT  TO   LAKE   OKEECHOBEE.  311 

pleasant  neighbors.  The  females  are  modest  and  retir 
ing,  and,  from  what  we  could  learn,  are  remarkable  for 
chastity.  Those  we  met  did  not  appear  to  have  an 
appetite  for  intoxicating  liquors,  and  with  the  exception 
of  Johnny,  a  half-breed  (part  Indian  and  part  negro), 
they  seemed  to  be  strictly  honest.  The  Indians  stated 
that  Jimmy  was  "  holywagus  "  (no  good),  and  we  arrived 
at  the  same  conclusion.  We  missed  a  pocket  knife, 
which  we  had  reason  to  believe  Jimmy  appropriated. 
Descending  the  river,  we  overtook  Jimmy  at  one  of  his 
camps,  and  found  one  of  our  spinners  attached  to  his 
fishing  line.  He  assured  us  that  he  had  found  it ; 
but  his  statement  was  received  cum  grano  salis.  To 
persons  visiting  Fort  Thompson  we  can  recommend  Billy 
Osceola  as  a  good  and  attentive  guide,  and,  as  far  as  our 
observation  went,  perfectly  reliable.  Curiosity  appears 
to  be  a  prominent  trait  of  these  Indians,  and  their  desire 
to  see  and  examine  everything,  at  times  proved  annoy 
ing.  To  escape  their  inquisitiveness  we  would  anchor  the 
boat  in  mid-channel,  and  they  would  seat  themselves  on 
the  shore,  and  stoically  wait  for  hours  for  us  to  get  back 
with  the  boat. 

The  Indians  of  Florida  are  so  advanced  in  civilization 
as  to  shun  politics,  rings,  and  peculation,  and  are  disposed 
to  remain  honest,  and  untainted  by  the  intrigues  of  carpet 
baggers.  They  are  entitled  to  one  representative  in  the 
State  Legislature  ;  and  this  fact  having  been  discovered 
by  an  aspiring  carpet-bagger,  he  visited  Spotted  Tail  and 
solicited  his  influence.  Old  Spotted  Tail  listened  to  his 
eloquent  pleading,  and  rather  abruptly  ended  the  in 
terview  by  exclaiming,  ' '  Indian  no  want  politics  ;  go 
to  h ." 


312  SOUTH-WEST    FLORIDA. 


8. — INDIAN  MOUNDS  AND  CANALS. 

WE  left  Fort  Thompson  with  reluctance,  but  our 
nearly-exhausted  bread-box  prompted  us  to  reach  Man 
atee  at  an  early  day.  We  commenced  the  descent  of 
the  river,  and  resolved  upon  thinning  out  the  'gators. 
Before  reaching  Punta  Rassa,  we  footed  up  our  'gator 
account,  and  found  that  we  had  settled  the  affairs 
of  ninety-four  on  the  Caloosahatchie,  the  best  day's 
sport  being  thirty-six.  We  have  done  some  little  shoot 
ing  in  our  time  ;  but  for  excitement  and  amusement 
give  preference  to  'gator  perforating,  and  can  confidently 
recommend  the  Caloosahatchie  to  those  who  wish  to 
engage  in  this  description  of  sport.  At  this  point  I  may 
remark,  that  we  thoroughly  tested  the  Winchester  and 
Remington  riiles ;  and  for  penetration,  convenience  of 
loading,  accuracy  of  shooting,  and  general  usefulness,  we 
are  forced  to  give  the  decided  preference  to  the  former. 

Passing  a  bayou  twenty  miles  below  Fort  Thompson, 
Harry  noticed  a  woodcock,  and  we  landed.  In  this  re 
tired  and  beautiful  spot  we  started  seven,  the  only  ones 
we  noticed  during  our  wanderings.  We  have  often 
thought  that  these  birds  have  a  taste  for  the  beautiful 
in  nature,  for  they  are  generally  found  where  nature  has 
been  most  lavish  in  her  offerings.  After  leaving  the 
Caloosahatchie  telegraph  station,  and  before  reaching 
the  islands  above  Fort  Thompson,  we  towed  our  spinners 
astern,  but  soon  tired  of  landing  cavalli  ranging  from 
five  to  fifteen  pounds.  Reaching  Punta  Rassa,  we 
steered  across  the  Caloosa  entrance,  entered  Matanzas 
Pass,  and  proceeded  southward  toward  the  Erastro  and 
Corkscrew  rivers.  If  time  had  permitted  we  would 


INDIANS   MOUNDS   AND   CANALS.  313 

have  ascended  these  streams  and  described  an  unknown, 
but,  we  have  reason  to  believe,  an  interesting  section. 
Reluctantly  we  turned  the  prow  of  the  Spray  northward. 
En  route  we  visited  the  northern  end  of  Pine  Island, 
situated  three  miles  north  of  Useppi.  Here  we  found  a 
Yankee  named  Ham,  who  had  resided  there  for  twenty- 
four  years.  At  the  landing  we  found  two  luxuriant 
cocoa-nut  trees  in  fruit,  and  back  of  the  hut,  roasting 
ears,  garden  vegetables,  and  several  hundred  lemon  trees 
loaded  down  with  their  golden  fruit.  At  this  point  will 
be  found  four  of  the  largest  mounds  on  the  coast,  and 
the  archaeologist  will  be  pointed  to  something  interesting 
and  calculated  to  puzzle  him.  The  island  is  three  miles 
wide,  and,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  hundred  feet  on 
each  side,  is  traversed  by  a  canal  forty  feet  wide  and 
eight  feet  in  depth.  Mr.  Ham  assured  me  that  a  similar 
excavation  existed  on  the  main  land,  and  could  be 
traced  in  a  direct  line  toward  Okeechobee  for  a  distance 
of  fourteen  miles.  On  the  north  side  of  Caloosahatchie 
river,  near  its  source,  a  similar  canal  is  found,  and  of 
about  three  miles  in  length.  I  was  assured  by  a  reliable 
party  familiar  with  the  locality,  that  a  similar  one  ex 
isted  on  one  of  the  Thousand  Islands.  The  question 
arises,  Who  excavated  these  canals,  or  for  what  purpose 
were  they  dug  ?  It  is  a  well-known  fact  that  the  In 
dians  were  too  indolent  to  engage  in  such  an  under 
taking.  There  cannot  be  a  question  regarding  these 
excavations  having  been  made  by  man,  but  why  made, 
or  by  whom,  is  the  question.  An  examination  of  the 
live-oak  trees  growing  in  and  on  the  sides  of  the  exca 
vation  negatives  any  argument  that  they  could  have  been 
the  work  of  the  early  Spaniards  or  the  Seminoles.  From 
our  knowledge  of  the  Indian  tribes  it  is  not  probable 


314  SOUTH-WEST  FLORIDA. 

that  these  canals  were  dug  by  the  Yamassecs.  We  think 
that  a  thorough  examination  should  be  made  of  these* 
ancient  works  by  the  Smithsonian  authorities,  as  such 
an  investigation  might  lead  to  interesting  developments 
regarding  the  earlier  races  inhabiting  the  south-west 
portion  of  the  peninsula.  In  addition  to  the  canals 
referred  to,  the  large  Indian  mounds  on  the  south-west 
coast  deserve  examination.  Such  an  exploration  would 
fall  within  the  legitimate  sphere  of  the  institution  re 
ferred  to,  and  the  expense  incurred  would  be  trifling 
compared  to  probable  results.  During  the  trip,,  birds, 
fish,  and  marine  and  fresh-water  alga3  could  be  collected, 
and  the  institution  benefited  thereby. 

Leaving  Pine  Island,  with  its  hospitable  inhabitants, 
we  made  for  Bird  Key,  one  mile  west  of  Useppi.  This 
small  island  consists  of  about  forty  acres,  and  is  covered 
with  large  mangrove  trees.  At  one  time  it  boasted  of 
inhabitants,  for  where  we  landed  the  shore  had  been 
carefully  paved  with  large  clam  shells.  It  is  the  rookery, 
or  roosting  place,  for  the  multitudes  of  birds  that  frequent 
Charlotte  Harbor.  On  the  island  will  be  found  pelicans, 
gannet,  cormorants,  water  turkeys,  cranes,  and  herons  of 
all  kinds,  sizes,  and  descriptions.  A  person  desirous  of 
collecting  ornithological  specimens  would  find  this  a  de 
sirable  locality.  In  the  evening  we  amused  ourselves  by 
shooting  white  herons  for  their  plumes,  and  the  noise 
made  by  the  birds  after  each  discharge  beggars  all  de 
scription.  We  left  Bird  Key  and  adjoining  coast  islands, 
after  devoting  a  couple  of  days  to  their  examination. 

Wending  our  way  homeward,  we  reached  the  north 
ern  end  of  Gasparilla  Island,  and  came  to  a  halt  for  a 
time.  We  had  been  sceptical  regarding  the  fish  stories 
that  had  been  told  us  about  the  fish  in  this  region,  but  after 


INDIAN   MOUNDS   AND   CANALS.  315 

having  practically  tested  the  matter,  we  are  prepared  to 
credit  almost  anything  we  hear  stated,  or  see  printed, 
regarding  fish  vand  fishing  on  the   south-west  coast  of 
Florida.     I  am  somewhat  of  a  veteran  and  energetic  fish 
erman,  but  for  the  first  time  in  my  life  became  surfeited 
with  one  hour's  fishing  at  the  inner  point  of  Little  Gas- 
parilla  Inlet.     At  the  young  flood,  Harry,  Frank,  and  I 
visited  the  inlet  and  noticed  a  school  of  minnows  being 
chased  by  a  red-fish.     To  escape  their  pursuers,  hundreds 
jumped  on  the  sand,  and  with  hands  and  feet  we  assisted 
many  more  to  land.     We  commenced  with  rods  and  reels, 
but  were  forced  to  abandon  these  fancy  implements  ;  for 
while  we  were  engaged  playing  a  large  red,  or  other  fish, 
he  would  be  gobbled  by  a  shark,  and  tackle  would  go  by 
the  board.     I  hooked  a  large  red-fish  which  was  taken  by 
a  large  shark,  and  to  my  regret  I  found  that  I  had  se 
cured  an  elephant.     I  showed  fight,  the  last  foot  of  line 
left  my  reel,  and  my  excellent  and  serviceable  Shipley 
bamboo  rod  was  soon  in  extremis.     The  rod  bent  like  a 
bit  of  steel,  but  the  braided  line  held — one  joint  after 
another  was  strained,  and  at  last  the  line  parted,  and  I 
was  left  alone  in  my  glory,  with  a  strained  and  dilapidated 
Shipley  rod.     Resolved  upon  having  a  little  piscatorial 
amusement,  I  visited  the  boat  and  obtained  three  strong 
lines  eighty  feet  long,  attached  an  eight-ounce  sinker 
and  two  large  hooks  to  each,  and  again  entered  the  lists. 
We  baited  with  the  minnows,    and    would  throw  our 
lines  out  their  full  length.     Almost  instantly  the  baits 
would  be  taken  by  red-fish  ranging  from  five  to  twenty 
pounds,  cavalli,  weak-fish,  bone-fish,  grunts,  or  red  and 
black  grouper  of  large  size.     We  unhooked  the  fish  and 
returned  them  to  their  native  element.     At  the  end  of 
an  hour,  Harry,  Frank,  and  fs  Al  Fresco  "  abandoned  the 


316  SOUTH-WEST  FLORIDA. 

sport  exhausted  and  demoralized.  Some  of  our  readers 
will  say  that  this  was  unnecessary  slaughter,  and  not 
sport.  I  am  prepared  to  admit  the  soft  impeachment, 
but  in  extenuation  enter  the  plea  that  we  followed 
up  the  amusement  in  order  that  our  readers  could 
form  an  opinion  regarding  the  kind  of  sport  obtain 
able  on  the  south-west  coast.  Some  will  probably  say 
that  "  this  was  equal  to  pot  hunting,  and  that 
the  piscator  would  only  capture  fish  in  an  artistic 
manner,  with  rod  and  reel."  To  such  we  will  simply 
say,  Hook  and  play  a  ten  or  fifteen-pound  red  fish  for 
a  few  minutes,  and  then  secure  an  addition  of  from 
eight  to  twelve  lineal  feet  of  shark,  and  one  such  catch, 
and  rods,  lines,  and  reels  would  "go  up."  Inside  the 
inner  point,  shecpsheading  is  excellent,  the  fish  ran 
ging  from  one  to  live  pounds.  With  a  stout  nine-foot 
rod  and  three  hooks  baited  with  fiddlers,  from  one  to 
three  sheepshead  can  be  captured  at  almost  every  cast. 
The  water  is  very  clear,  and  the  bottom  a  white  shell 
bank,  and  the  fish  arc  visible  in  dozens,  slowly  swimming 
along  in  search  of  food.  Fiddlers  of  large  size  can  be 
secured  in  quantity  for  bait  on  most  of  the  sandy  keys. 
To  obtain  them  easily  nothing  more  is  necessary  than  to 
dig  them  out  of  the  sand,  where  their  holes  are  visible. 
If  placed  in  an  ordinary  wooden  pail  they  will  live  for 
many  days,  lied  and  other  fish  will  readily  take  cut-fish 
bait,  but  seem  to  prefer  minnows. 

I  noticed  numerous  deer  tracks  on  the  island,  and 
suggested  to  Frank  and  Harry  that  they  should  kill  one. 
After  their  departure  for  the  central  portion  of  the 
island,  I  seated  myself  on  an  empty  pail  and  engaged  in 
catching  sheepshead  and  throwing  them  in  again,  unless 
BO  badly  hooked  as  to  render  them  unfit  for  anything  but 


MOUNDS  AND   CANALS.  317 

a  frying  pan;  I  was  absorbed  in  the  amusement,  when 
I  was  startled  by  a  large  buck  and  doe  plunging  into  the 
bay  within  a  few  feet  of  my  person.  When  Harry  and 
Frank  returned  they  informed  me  that  they  had  started 
a  number,  fired  at  two,  but  did  not  kill.  All  the  larger 
islands  are  stocked  with  deer,  and  on  most  of  them  dogs 
are  unnecessary  ;  in  fact  still  hunting  is  the  preferable 
mode.  Coons  in  immense  numbers  exist  on  these  islands, 
and  their  tracks  are  visible  everywhere  near  the  bay 
beaches.  On  the  mud  flats  opposite  our  camping  place 
thousands  of  snipe  and  curlews  could  be  seen  at  any 
time,  apparently  waiting  to  be  destroyed.  In  the  centre 
of  the  island  the  sportsman  will  find  a  large  fresh-water 
lagoon,  where  excellent  water  can  be  obtained.  For  the 
invalid  who  is  piscatorially  inclined,  and  who  desires  an 
excellent  climate,  we  would  say,  Spend  a  few  weeks  or 
months  on  the  northern  end  of  Little  Gasparilla.  The 
air  is  pure,  water  excellent,  frost  absent,  sea  bathing 
unequalled,  fishing  beyond  description,  deer  plentiful  on 
the  island  and  on  the  main  land.  To  the  sportsman  this 
island  offers  many  inducements,  and  I  would  earnestly 
advise  any  one  visiting  Charlotte  Harbor  to  spend  some 
days  here.  Yesterday  I  received  a  communication  from 
a  gentleman  residing  in  the  interior  of  Pennsylvania,  in 
which  I  find  the  following  : 

"I  have  greatly  desired  to  visit  Florida  for  years 
past,  but  have  feared  the  trip  on  account  of  fevers  and 
bad  water.  I  have  also  heard  much  of  the  insects  of 
Florida,  and  am  enough  of  an  angler  to  have  a  whole 
some  dread  of  the  woods  in  fly  time." 

I  proposed  postponing  the  consideration  of  these 
subjects  until  the  final  communication,  but  as  I  find  so 
much  ignorance  prevailing  on  many  points,  I  shall  take 


318  SOUTH-WEST  FLORIDA. 

advantage  of  this  letter  to  ventilate  these  subjects. 
Excellent  water  can  be  obtained  at  any  settlement,  or 
from  the  rivers  and  creeks  above  salt  water.  On  a  few 
of  the  islands  fresh  ponds  and  lagoons  can  be  found, 
where  a  supply  can  be  secured.  On  Pine,  Useppi,  and 
Lacosta  islands,  a  superior  article  can  be  obtained.  On 
any  of  the  islands  a  fair  to  good  sample  can  be  found  by 
digging  a  well  from  two  to  four  feet  deep.  At  Punta 
Rassa  and  Fort  Meyers,  cistern  water  can  be  secured. 
From  the  streams  and  springs  north  of  Clear  Water  Har 
bor,  water  equalling  the  Croton  can  be  found.  If  the 
sportsman  carries  with  him  one  or  two  five-gallon  water 
kegs  he  will  not  suffer.  We  could  find  room  for  but 
one  five-gallon  keg,  and  we  managed  very  well.  Aware 
of  the  suffering  that  results  from  a  deficient  supply  of 
good  water,  I  was  induced  in  a  previous  communication 
to  refer  to  the  subject. 

I  have  visited  nearly  all  portions  of  Florida  except 
Indian  river  and  Bay  Biscayne  region,  both  in  winter 
and  summer,  and  can  safely  assert  that  I  have  suffered 
more  from  mosquitoes  in  one  day  at  the  head  of  Lake 
Superior,  and  at  Barnegat,  New  Jersey,  than  I  have 
during  all  my  visits  to  Florida  combined.  From  what 
I  have  heard  stated  and  seen  published  I  have  reason  to 
believe  that  insects  are  troublesome  on  the  Indian  river, 
but  this  should  not  be  made  to  apply  to  the  whole  of  the 
State.  I  spent  nearly  two  months  on  the  south-west 
coast,  traversed  several  degrees  of  latitude  and  longitude, 
visited  most  of  the  bays,  rivers,  creeks,  and  islands,  and 
I  can  positively  assert  that  I  was  really  annoyed  on  but 
one  occasion  with  sand-flies  and  mosquitoes,  and  that 
was  one  afternoon  and  evening  when  we  were  encamped 
in  the  spring  of  the  Chisiowilski.  We  made  it  a  rule  to 


INDIAN   MOUNDS  AND   CANALS.  319 

anchor  a  short  distance  from  shore  every  night ;  but  if 
the  sportsman  encamps  on  land  he  will  be  somewhat 
annoyed  by  mosquitoes  in  the  early  part  of  the  evening. 
The  mosquitoes  of  the  south-west  coast  are  lethargic, 
and  not  active  and  industrious,  as  are  those  of  Lake 
Superior  and  New  Jersey.  We  carried  with  us  a  full 
supply  of  mosquito  netting  and  thin  muslin  to  protect 
us  from  sand-flies,  but  the  original  packages  were 
brought  back  unopened.  I  will  admit  that  I  was  put 
through  by  the  "red  bugs,"  but  my  sufferings  were  the 
result  of  ignorance,  and  my  dearly  bought  experience 
will  benefit  others.  At  Cedar  Keys,  Manatee,  and 
Tampa,  a  few  fleas  will  be  found,  but  never  away  from 
settlements  or  hog  nests.  At  Fort  Thompson  I  thought 
lessly  entered  one  of  Captain  Henry's  old  palmetto-leaf 
shanties,  where  dozens  of  hogs  slept  nightly,  and  as  a, 
result  I  was  literally  covered  with  fleas.  I  secured  such 
a  supply  that  I  was  forced  to  strip  and  sink  my  clothing 
to  the  bottom  of  the  river,  and  drown  the  active  cus 
tomers.  If  the  sportman  steers  clear  of  settlements  and 
hog  nests,  he  will  not  find  a  flea  in  the  southern  portion 
of  the  State.  The  last  night  I  spent  at  Cedar  Keys  I 
found  that  the  bed  contained  a  number  of  fleas,  and  that 
to  sleep  was  impossible.  I  searched  my  coat,  and  removed 
from  one  of  my  pockets  a  box  of  insect  powder.  I  sprin 
kled  a  small  quantity  in  the  bed,  a  little  in  each  shirt  sleeve, 
and  some  on  my  neck  ;  a  few  fanning  motions  of  my  shirt 
and  the  top  sheet,  and  peace  reigned  supreme.  The 
Persian  Insect  Powder  should  be  carried  by  every  sports 
man  who  runs  any  risk  of  coming  in  contact  with  fleas 
or  bed  bugs.  If  the  latter  prove  troublesome,  a  small 
quantity  sprinkled  on  the  lower  sheet  will  act  like  magic, 
and  nearly  every  bug  that  enters  the  bed  will  be  found 


320  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

lifeless  in  the  morning.  My  experience  is  that  the 
yarns  spun  about  insect  life  in  Florida  is,  to  a  great  ex 
tent,  "  twaddle  and  stuff."  I  suffer  more  from  fleas  than 
any  person  I  have  eyer  met,  and  have  received  so  much 
benefit  from  the  use  of  the  Insect  Powder  that  I  am 
induced  to  refer  to  it. 

"With  regard  to  fevers  of  an  intermittent,  remittent, 
or  continued  type,  I  believe  they  are  unknown  on  the 
south-west  coast  during  the  winter  months,  and  that,  tak 
ing  the  year  through,  it  is  the  healthiest  section  in  the 
United  States.  I  sometimes  think  that  a  man  could  not 
contract  disease  on  the  coast  during  the  winter  months. 
I  am  a  medical  man  of  many  years'  experience,  and  before 
leaving  home  rilled  my  pocket-case  with  medicines,  in 
addition  to  sundry  bottles  and  pill  boxes.  Companions 
and  self  were  frequently  wet,  and  for  nearly  two  months 
slept  under  a  thin  canvas  cover  open  at  the  ends,  and 
not  a  particle  of  medicine  was  required.  The  only 
article  of  medicine  we  were  short  of  was  pilot  bread,  and 
others  may  be  benefited  by  our  experience.  In  all  my 
wanderings  in  the  State,  I  have  seen  but  one  diminutive 
scorpion,  and  that  I  captured  at  Fort  Thompson.  I 
resided  for  twelve  years  in  a  portion  of  the  world  where 
scorpions  are  plentiful,  and  I  never  knew  any  person  to 
be  seriously  injured  by  their  venom.  With  regard  to  the 
bugbear  of  snakes,  I  have  only  to  remark,  that  during 
the  period  of  my  recent  visit  to  the  State  I  saw  but  four 
— a  rattlesnake  near  Fort  Thompson,  a  black  snake  on 
the  Caloosahatchic,  a  garter  snake  on  Gasparilla  Island, 
and  a  water  snake  on  the  Chisiowilski.  On  one  occasion, 
in  passing  through  the  interior  from  Tampa  to  Silver 
Spring,  I  noticed  a  large  rattlesnake  lying  by  the  side  of 
a  log,  and  stopped  the  conveyance  to  destroy  him,  but 


TAMPA.  321 

found  that  some  one  had  performed  the  duty  before  my 
arrival.  Hence  I  have  met  with  two  rattlesnakes  in  the 
State,  one  alive  and  one  dead.  I  am  prepared  to  admit 
that  they  exist  in  the  State,  and  that  they  are  fully 
developed  specimens  ;  but  where  one  can  be  found  in 
Florida,  a  dozen  can  be  killed  in  the  mountainous  re 
gions  of  Pennsylvania.  My  statement  may  differ  from 
others,  but  I  describe  things  as  I  found  them.  Before 
leaving  the  North  I  provided  three  large  India  rubber 
blankets  to  make  leggings  to  protect  the  party  from  the 
fangs  of  rattlesnakes,  and  it  affords  me  pleasure  to  state 
that  I  have  the  blankets  uncut  in  my  possession. 


9.— TAMPA. 

A  FAIR  wind  favoring  us,  we  left  Little  Gasparilla 
Pass  at  7.30  A.  M.,  and  reached  Little  Sarasota  Inlet 
at  3.20  p.  M. — a  run  of  thirty-eight  miles.  En  route 
we  noticed  two  boats,  and  several  objects  moving  on 
the  beach.  Examining  them  with  our  glass  we  dis 
covered  that  the  men  were  poling  the  boat  against  a  head 
wind,  and  that  the  females  had  landed  on  the  beach,  and 
were  keeping  pace  with  their  lords.  A  peculiarity  of 
the  south-west  coast  is  a  calm  ocean  and  little,  if  any,  surf, 
unless  after  a  storm,  enabling  persons  to  land  without 
inconvenience  or  danger.  Having  sailed  over  many 
oceans,  and  visited  more  than  one  coast  line,  we  had 
formed  an  unfavorable  opinion  of  shore  lines  and  surf 
generally,  but  we  returned  to  our  northern  home  with 
changed  opinions,  as  far  as  the  south-west  coast  is  con 
cerned.  Our  first  thirty-eight  miles  of  sea  navigation 
14* 


322  SOUTH-WEST   FLOEIDA. 

were  undertaken  with  some  reluctance,  but  the  return 
voyage  was  simply  viewed  in  the  light  of  a  pleasure  trip, 
and  was  found  to  be  most  enjoyable.  If  I  undertake 
another  cruise  on  the  coast,  it  is  more  than  probable  that 
I  shall  take  the  outside  route,  and  thereby  escape  the 
annoyance  of  oyster  bars  and  mud  flats  ;  as  a  matter 
of  course,  if  the  bosom  of  old  mother  ocean  happen  to 
be  lumpy,  with  an  uncomfortable  amount  of  dust  flying, 
I  would  take  the  inside  route.  The  entire  coast  from 
Cedar  Keys  to  Charlotte  Harbor  can  be  safely  navigated 
in  a  IG-foot  Whitehall  skiff.  As  proof  that  our  opinion 
is  not  based  upon  a  few  miles  of  sea  work  or  one  day's 
experience  outside  of  the  islands,  our  voyaging  at  sea 
amounts  to  over  175  miles. 

Entering  Sarasota  Inlet  and  finding  the  wind  favor 
able  we  kept  on  our  course,  and  reached  the  neighbor 
hood  of  Anna  Maria  Keys,  at  the  head  of  Sarasota  Bay, 
at  10  P.  M.,  where  we  anchored  for  the  night.  Starting 
early  next  morning,  we  reached  Manatee  at  9  A.  M.  At 
10  A.  M.  the  steamer  Emilie  moored  to  the  dock,  and 
the  courteous  captain  (Lefferts)  kindly  offered  to  give 
us  a  tow  to  Tampa,  forty  miles  distant,  which  we  accepted 
with  thanks.  We  reached  Tampa  early  in  the  afternoon, 
and  received  a  hearty  welcome  from  many  friends. 
Tampa  is  situated  on  the  Hillsboro  river,  where  it  enters 
Tampa  Bay,  and  is  a  pleasant  town  of  about  five  hun 
dred  inhabitants.  Society  is  excellent,  and  the  inhabi 
tants  kind  and  hospitable  in  the  extreme.  The  climate  is 
good,  and  an  invalid  who  is  partial  to  quietness  might 
spend  a  winter  there  very  pleasantly.  The  town  con 
tains  several  boarding-houses,  and  from  information 
gleaned  from  several  parties  I  can  recommend  the  house 
kept  by  D.  Isaac  Craft.  I  visited  the  house,  and  found 


TAMPA.  323 

everything  neat  and  clean.  Mr.  Craft's  terms  are  $60 
per  month  for  two  persons  in  a  room.  During  the  winter 
months  the  climate  is  pleasant,  and  the  health  of  the  place 
unexceptionable.  At  this  place  I  made  the  acquaint 
ance  of  Dr.  Wall,  and  found  him  genial  and  courteous 
in  the  extreme,  and,  as  a  medical  man,  we  formed 
a  favorable  opinion  of  his  attainments,  and  we  can 
assure  invalids  that  if  they  should  visit  the  place,  they 
will  find  in  the  doctor  a  gentleman  and  an  educated  and 
skilful  practitioner  of  medicine.  I  am  convinced  that 
Tampa  would  be  more  frequently  visited  if  invalids 
could  but  realize  the  climatic  advantages  of  the  south 
west  coast. 

For  the  piscator,  Tampa  does  not  present  many 
inducements.  A  few  miles  up  the  river,  fair  trout  fishing 
can  be  obtained,  and  about  the  docks  and  in  the  channel, 
passable  sheepsheading  will  be  found.  By  taking  a  row 
or  sail  boat,  and  proceeding  to  the  oyster  bar,  nine  miles 
down  the  bay,  superior  sheepshead  and  drum  fishing  can 
be  enjoyed.  On  the  morning  of  our  departure  we  were 
notified  that  a  hunting  and  fishing  party  had  been  made 
up  for  our  benefit ;  that  it  was  the  intention  of  the  party 
to  take  a  boat  and  outfit,  by  a  mule  team,  to  a  point  on 
the  river  forty  miles  above  Tampa,  and  to  fish  the  river 
and  hunt  the  south  bank  on  the  return  trip.  To  have 
carried  out  the  programme,  from  ten  to  fourteen  days 
would  have  been  required,  and  as  our  time  was  limited 
we  found  it  impossible  to  accept  the  invitation  so  kindly 
extended.  At  this  point  I  made  the  acquaintance  of  Mr. 
Charles  Moore,  originally  of  Boston,  Massachusetts,  but 
a  resident  of  Tampa  since  the  war.  Mr.  M.  informed  us 
that  he  would  furnish  sportsmen  with  a  boat,  mule  team 
and  wagon  and  his  services,  for  $5  per  day — truly  a  cheap 


324  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

hunting  and  fishing  outfit.  He  stated  his  intention  of 
building,  during  the  ensuing  summer,  a  boat  suitable  for 
the  coast,  and  that  he  would  be  prepared  to  fit  out  and 
accompany  sporting  parties  on  reasonable  terms.  In  this 
connection  we  may  remark  that  several  parties  residing 
at  Manatee  can  supply  boats  adapted  to  the  wants  of 
coasting  parties  ;  and  to  ascertain  names  and  prices,  tour 
ists  might  address  Edmund  E.  Lee,  Esq.,  Manatee. 
Being  acquainted  with  this  gentleman,  we  feel  assured 
that  he  would  aid  tourists  and  others  in  any  way. 

We  cleaned  boat,  aired  clothing,  and  purchased  a 
barrel  of  "new  and  first-class  pilot  bread,7'  and  left 
Tampa,  with  its  hospitable  inhabitants,  behind.  We 
reached  the  oyster  bar  at  8  p.  M.,  and  came  to  anchor. 
In  the  morning  we  laid  in  a  stock  of  oysters,  and  pro 
ceeded  to  the  wreck  of  the  II.  M.  Cool,  to  the  south  of 
Gadsdcn's  Point.  Wo  tested  the  fishing  about  the  reef, 
but,  to  our  surprise,  failed  to  capture  fish  enough  for  our 
dinner.  Onward  and  northward  being  our  motto,  we 
steered  for  Big  Bayou,  where  we  found  a  safe  anchorage 
for  the  night. 

But  to  the  biscuit  business.  I  have  reason  to  believe 
that  my  readers  will  conclude  that  the  crew  of  the  Spray 
had  an  attack  of  biscuits  on  the  brain,  but  when  it 
becomes  necessary  to  keep  the  teeth  going  and  the  staff 
of  life  cannot  be  obtained,  the  biscuit  business  becomes 
an  important  subject.  We  purchased  our  barrel  of 
"fresh  and  first-class  pilot  bread"  from  a  firm  whose 
names  we  shall  not  mention  ;  for  it  is  possible  that  the 
clerk  may  have  made  a  mistake  and  delivered  the  wrong 
barrel.  We  opened  the  barrel,  and  the  first  thing  that 
met  our  gaze  were  hundreds  of  well-developed  cock 
roaches.  We  carefully  separated  biscuits  from  roaches, 


TAMPA.  320 

the  bread  being  consigned  to  our  bread  box  and  the 
roaches  to  the  briny  deep.  We  made  an  attack  upon  the 
new  biscuit,  but  discovered  that  eating  them  was  a  diffi 
cult  undertaking ;  for  each  biscuit  contained  numerous 
slate-colored  insects  tasting  like  quinine.  To  eat  such 
bread  was  impossible,  so  we  were  forced  to  fall  back  on 
sweet  potatoes  and  fish  until  we  could  reach  Clear  Water 
Harbor.  To  intending  tourists  or  sportsmen  we  would 
say  :  lay  in  an  ample  supply  of  pilot  bread  before  leaving 
New  York  or  Savannah,  and  not  trust  to  luck,  as  did 
"  Al  Fresco"  and  his  companions.  It  is  possible  that  a 
supply  of  edible  biscuit  may  be  obtained  on  the  coast  an 
other  year,  but  if  we  ever  visit  the  region  again  we  shall 
lay  in  a  larger  stock  of  bread  than  we  did  on  the  occa 
sion  of  our  last  cruise. 

Mullet  Key,  at  the  mouth  of  Tampa  Bay,  is  a  noted 
range  for  deer,  and  the  still  hunter  will  find  it  worth  a 
visit.  We  were  informed  by  a  gentleman  of  the  colored 
persuasion,  who  was  in  the  habit  of  visiting  the  island, 
that  rattlesnakes  were  plentiful  and  of  a  remarkable  size  ; 
this  statement  we  give  as  we  received  it,  but  would  sug 
gest  to  hunters  the  propriety  of  wearing  leggings  and 
looking  out  for  "snakes  in  the  grass"  if  they  ever  visit 
this  island.  Leaving  Point  Prunelles  we  steered  a  course 
for  John's  Pass,  and  landed  on  the  island  on  the  west 
side  of  the  entrance,  and  in  a  few  minutes  captured  a 
number  of  fine  sheepshead.  This  locality  is  noted  for 
its  beautiful  marine  alg^e,  and  we  deeply  regretted  the 
want  of  proper  appliances  to  collect  and  preserve  speci 
mens.  On  the  point  of  the  island,  at  the  north  side  of 
the  entrance,  we  found  a  shallow  lagoon  containing 
fish,  a  matter  of  interest  to  sportsmen  and  tourists. 
An  examination  of  the  end  of  the  island  showed  the  ex- 


326  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

istcnce  of  deer  tracks  in  every  direction.  We  hoisted 
sail  ancl  steered  a  course  for  the  northern  end  of  Tampa 
B«iy,  where  we  found  the  bay  to  diminish  in  width,  and 
assume  the  appearance  of  a  river.  On  our  left,  the  shore 
of  the  sea  island  varied  from  six  to  ten  feet  high,  and  on 
right,  or  main  land  side,  mud  and  grassy  flats  were  fre 
quently  passed,  and  these  were  literally  covered  with 
ducks,  snipe,  and  curlews.  As  we  approached  the  head 
of  Clear  Water  Harbor  we  found  the  passage  to  become 
very  narrow,  and  ultimately  end  in  a  shallow  mud-flat, 
where  the  Spray  grounded.  The  tide  was  ebbing,  so  we 
deemed  it  best  to  apply  a  muscular  breeze  and  reach 
deep  water.  Harry  pulled  at  the  cable,  ancl  Frank  and 
I  applied  ourselves  to  the  stern  of  the  boat,  and  in  this 
way  we  worked  her  for  two  hundred  yards  in  less  than 
one  foot  of  water.  Soon  after  reaching  Clear  Water 
Harbor  we  sighted  Mrs.  Teemer's  residence,  and  landed. 
From  Mrs.  T.  we  purchased  a  supply  of  the  largest  and 
most  delicious  oranges  to  be  obtained  on  the  south-west 
coast,  It  was  the  Sabbath  when  we  reached  the  dock,  at 
the  first  store  in  the  harbor,  and  we  deemed  it  advisable 
to  secure  a  supply  of  crackers.  We  visited  the  store, 
and  the  old  fellow  who  kept  it  being  religiously  inclined, 
at  first  positively  refused  to  sell  us  anything  to  eat,  but 
when  I  assured  him  that  we  were  in  want  he  opened  his 
heart  and  consented  to  sell  us  enough  to  last  until  morn 
ing.  I  engaged  him  in  conversation  regarding  oranges, 
climate,  soil,  and  the  advantages  and  resources  of  the 
locality,  and  before  I  left  purchased  all  his  soda  and 
sugar  crackers.  My  clothing  was  anything  but  attrac 
tive,  but  when  the  sanctimonious  old  gentleman  saw  me 
open  my  pocket-book,  and  noticed  that  it  contained  the 
sinews  of  war,  his  Christian  prejudices  melted  like  ice  in 


TAMPA.  327 

July.  Before  leaving,  he  induced  Frank  to  purchase  a 
small  bunch  of  bananas,  but  when  we  attempted  to  eat 
them  we  found  that  they  equalled  a  poor  turnip  in  flavor. 
The  land  at  this  point  is  excellent,  health  unexcelled, 
and  the  climate  all  that  can  be  desired  by  the  settler. 
The  land  along  the  harbor  is  high,  and  the  locality  is 
rapidly  settling  up.  At  the  passes  the  fishing  is  inferior, 
as  compared  with  many  points  to  the  north  or  south. 
The  residents  of  the  main  land  occasionally  visit  the  islands 
and  drive  for  deer,  and  in  consequence  these  animals  are 
shy  and  difficult  to  approach  by  the  still  hunter. 

Finding  nothing  to  interest  or  detain  us  at  Clear 
Water  Harbor,  we  headed  our  boat  for  the  Anelote  river, 
ten  miles  to  the  northward.  Leaving  the  northern  end 
of  the  harbor,  the  tourist  must  follow  the  channel  for 
two  miles  toward  the  Anelote  Keys,  so  as  to  clear  an 
extensive  sand  bank  bounding  the  northern  side  of  the 
channel.  After  rounding  the  bank  a  north-west  course 
must  be  kept,  leaving  the  shore  two  or  three  miles  to  the 
right.  At  this  distance  from  land  the  water  will  be 

O 

found  to  be  about  four  or  five  feet  in  depth,  and  a  look 
out  must  be  kept  for  "  nigger  heads,"  black  rocks,  in 
some  cases  covered  with  but  a  few  inches  of  water.  The 
water  is  very  clear,  and  no  difficulty  will  be  experienced 
in  detecting  them  if  ordinary  care  is  taken.  After  mak 
ing  a  few  miles  of  northing,  a  long  point  will  be  noticed 
covered  with  tall  pines,  and  to  the  left  several  small 
keys.  By  keeping  close  to  the  point  and  following  the 
channel  next  the  main  land,  the  Anelote  river  will  be 
found  a  quarter  of  a  mile  north  of  the  point.  A  short 
distance  from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  on  the  north  side, 
the  tourist  will  notice  some  stakes,  and  if  he  lands  ho 
will  find  a  well  of  excellent  water  but  a  few  yards  from 


328  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

the  beach.  We  found  the  river  wide  and  shallow,  and 
the  navigation  extremely  difficult.,  in  consequence  of  the 
existence  of  numerous  and  extensive  oyster  bars.  Pro 
ceeding  up  the  river  one  mile,  we  noticed  a  house  on  the 
left  bank,  and  came  to  an  anchor.  In  front  of  the  house, 
excellent  red  sheepshead  and  weak  fishing  can  be 
obtained. 


1 0. — SUBTERRANEAN  STREAMS. 

THE  morning  after  our  arrival  at  the  Anelote,  we 
started  for  Salt  Spring,  two  miles  distant.  Leaving 
the  river  to  the  left,  we  entered  Salt  Spring  run,  and 
soon  found  ourselves  floating  on  the  basin  of  the  spring. 
We  found  the  basin  to  be  one  hundred  yards  wide  and 
eighty  feet  deep  at  the  deepest  place.  The  water  of 
this  spring  differs  from  that  of  the  many  we  have 
visited  in  the  State,  being  dark  in  color,  like  that  of 
the  St.  Johns  river.  The  basin  swarmed  with  fish,  and 
large  tarpum  could  be  seen  breaking  water  in  every 
direction.  It  is  named  Salt  Spring,  but  this  is  evidently 
an  error,  for  the  water  in  the  basin  is  merely  brackish, 
while  in  the  run  where  the  tide  ebbs  and  flows  the  waters 
are  salt.  We  have  reason  to  believe  that  Salt  Spring 
is  the  outlet  of  Lake  Butler,  distant  two  or  three  miles. 
This  lake  lias  several  tributaries,  but  no  visible  outlet ; 
the  water  is  dark  colored,  and  it  is  at  a  much  higher 
level  than  Salt  Spring.  The  brackish  condition  of  the 
water  in  Salt  Spring  is  evidently  the  result  of  tidal  in 
fluence.  Leaving  Salt  Spring  and  its  outlet  we  entered 
the  river  and  ascended  it  for  three  miles,  where  we  dis- 


SUBTERRANEAN   STREAMS.  329 

covered  a  stream  on  our  right  hand  twenty  feet  in 
width  and  ten  in  depth.  This  we  followed  for  half  a 
mile,  when  we  came  in  sight  of  Salt  Lake,  an  interest 
ing  and  picturesque  sheet  of  water  one  mile  long  and 
half  a  mile  wide.  At  the  entrance  of  the  lake,  snipe, 
duck,  coot,  and  curlews  were  visible  in  countless  numbers, 
and  large  red-fish,  sheepshead,  and  trout  fled  before  the 
boat  in  hundreds.  This  sheet  of  water  is  worth  visit 
ing,  especially  if  the  day  is  warm  and  the  sportsman  fond 
of  'gator  shooting.  Lake  Butler,  a  noted  place  for 
aquatic  birds,  is  half  a  mile  from  the  southern  shore  of 
Salt  Lake.  Deer  hunting  in  this  neighborhood  is  fair, 
and  the  region  would  be  found  worthy  of  a  visit. 

Finding  nothing  of  special  importance  to  detain  us, 
we  descended  the  river  and  started  for  the  Wiccawat- 
chee  river,  thirty-five  miles  to  the  northward.  En  route 
we  sighted  the  mouth  of  the  Pithlachestacootie  river, 
but  from  information  obtained  we  deem  it  unworthy  of 
a  visit.  In  steering  a  course  for  Bayport,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Wiccawatchee,  we  kept  the  main  land  from  two 
to  three  miles  to  starboard,  finding  from  four  to  five 
feet  of  water.  In  running  along  this  section  of  the 
coast,  it  is  essential  that  the  tourist  should  keep  a  good 
lookout  for  "  nigger  heads."  Bayport  is  easily  recog 
nized  by  a  large  storehouse  and  a  pile  of  cedar  logs. 
We  reached  the  dock  at  three  P.,  M.,  and  went  in  search 
of  soda  crackers,  and  at  the  store  laid  in  an  addition  to 
our  stock.  The  storekeeper  assured  us  that  "his 
oranges  were  the  best  on  the  coast."  Upon  his  recom 
mendation  we  purchased  a  supply,  and  regret  to  say  we 
found  them  very  inferior.  The  present  population 
numbers  about  twenty.  Before  the  war  large  quantities 
of  cedar  timber  were  shipped  from  this  point,  but  of  late 


330  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

years  the  trade  has  almost  ceased.  Standing  on  the 
dock  we  noticed  a  large  otter  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  and  tried  the  effect  of  a  Winchester  cartridge.  It 
proved  to  be  a  line  shot,  hut  the  elevation  was  too  great, 
and  the  ball  passed  about  one  inch  above  his  head.  As 
certaining  that  the  spring  of  the  Wiccawatchee  resem 
bled  those  of  streams  farther  north,  we  deemed  it  best 
to  forego  the  pleasure  of  ascending  the  river. 

From  such  data  as  we  were  enabled  to  collect,  we 
have  reason  to  believe  that  the  country  back  of  Bayport 
is  well  stocked  with  bear  and  deer,  and  feel  assured  that 
the  sportsman  may  secure  some  excellent  sport.  The  sec 
tion  referred  to  can  be  reached  by  land,  by  taking  stage 
from  Gainesville,  or  by  leaving  Ocklawaha  steamers  at 
Silver  Springs  ;  conveyance  to  Ocala  and  stage  from  Qcala 
to  Brooksville.  At  the  latter  place  a  vehicle  of  some 
description  could  be  obtained,  by  which  Bayport,  distant 
thirty  miles,  could  be  reached.  The  tourist  will  find 
the  neighborhood  of  Burkville  an  interesting  locality. 
The  immediate  neighborhood  is  hilly,  some  of  the 
highest  points  attaining  an  altitude  of  over  four  hun 
dred  feet.  The  land  is  of  a  superior  quality,  water  first 
class,  and  the  climate  during  the  summer  months  unex 
ceptionable.  In  the  neighborhood  the  sportsman  will 
find  some  crystal  lakes,  surrounded  by  hills,  where  he 
can  catch  quantum  suff.  of  trout  and  bream. 

Leaving  Bayport  astern,  we  headed  for  the  Chisio- 
wilski,  distant  ten  miles,  which  we  reached  in  the  after 
noon.  Fortune  favored  us,  and  we  found  the  mouth  of 
the  river  without  difficulty.  Passing  up  the  river  for  a 
distance  of  five  miles,  we  found  two  branches,  and  as  a 
matter  of  course  selected  the  deepest  and  plainest,  which 
soon  headed  in  a  mud  hole,  to  the  disappointment  of  all. 


SUBTERRANEAN   STREAMS.  331 

Returning,  we  tried  the  right-hand  branch,  and  for  half 
a  mile  poled  the  Spray  through  reeds  and  lily-pads, 
when  we  found  the  river  to  widen  and  deepen.  We 
soon  reached  the  head  of  the  stream,  and  found  an 
enchanting  spot,  one  worthy  of  the  pencil  of  an  artist. 
The  basin  of  the  spring  of  the  Chisiowilski  is  about  one 
hundred  feet  in  diameter,  and  the  depth  of  the  water  in 
the  spring  thirty-eight  feet.  The  water  is  as  pellucid  as 
air,  and  the  most  minute  object  can  be  plainly  seen  on 
the  clear  white  bottom.  From  appearances,  the  water 
issued  from  an  opening  seven  feet  wide  and  four  high. 
Looking  over  the  side  of  the  boat,  we  noticed  hundreds 
of  sheepshead,  cavalli,  bream,  trout,  and  red  and  black 
groupers  swimming  in  the  basin.  Being  disposed  to 
indulge  in  a  fish  supper,  we  went  for  the  scaly  customers, 
but  before  our  bait  reached  the  bottom  the  fish  left  the 
basin  and  disappeared  in  the  subterranean  channel. 
Disliking  to  be  defeated,  I  lashed  three  hooks  to  a  single 
gut,  with  the  intention  of  hooking  the  fish  in  an  unsports 
manlike  manner.  Upon  their  return  to  the  basin  we 
quietly  dropped  our  snatch  hook,  but  before  it  reached 
the  bottom  the  fish  took  their  departure.  We  devoted 
two  hours  to  our  piscatorial  efforts,  and  succeeded  in 
capturing  seven  small  fish.  Here  we  were  favored  with 
a  drizzling  rain-storm,  lasting  several  hours,  the  first  we 
noticed  from  the  day  we  left  Cedar  Keys.  Leaving  the 
spring,  we  followed  an  old  trail  for  a  few  hundred  yards, 
when  we  reached  open  piney  woods.  Here  we  met  a 
gentleman  from  Texas,  who  had  left  Texan  northers 
behind  and  located  at  this  point.  He  was  engaged  in 
the  production  of  tropical  fruits,  and  he  appeared  to  be 
favorably  impresed  with  the  climate.  He  assured  us 
that  he  could  not  be  induced  to  return  to  his  former 


332  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

home  in  Texas.  We  reluctantly  bade  farewell  to  this 
romantic  and  beautiful  spot,  and  directed  our  course 
toward  Homosassa. 

A  feature  peculiar  to  the  section  of  country  between 
the  Anelote  and  Withlacoochie  rivers  is  the  existence 
of  a  number  of  rivers  that  are  formed  by  subterranean 
streams  that  issue  from  the  earth  at  the  base  of  an 
elevated  region  of  land  which  follows  the  coast  line  at  a 
distance  of  ten  miles  from  the  Gulf.  To  find  the  mouth 
of  one  of  these  streams  is  a  matter  of  some  difficulty  to 
the  uninitiated.  For  several  miles  from  the  shore  the 
water  is  very  shoal,  and  oyster  bars  and  sand  flats  of 
great  extent  exist  in  troublesome  numbers.  Along  the 

G  V 

shore  line  the  land  is  low,  and  is  cut  up  by  numerous 
bayous,  bays,  and  blind  rivers  and  creeks,  and  in  conse 
quence  it  is  difficult  to  discover  the  entrance  to  some  of 
the  streams.  If  voyaging  without  a  pilot,  it  is  advisable 
to  institute  inquiries  on  every  possible  occasion,  and  pay 
particular  attention  to  the  existence  of  stakes.  To  enable 
them  to  find  and  trace  the  tortuous  channels  leading  in 
between  the  oyster  beds  and  sand  flats,  the  coasters  have 
planted  stakes,  which  will  serve  as  guide  to  the  stranger. 
By  following  the  course  pointed  out  by  the  stakes,  and 
paying  attention  to  the  set  of  the  tide,  as  well  as  the  deep 
water  and  the  distances  sailed,  the  wanderer  will  succeed  in 
finding  the  mouths  of  the  streams.  But  it  need  not  sur 
prise  any  Avanderer  if  he  should  spend  hours  in  vain  search 
to  find  the  entrance  to  some  of  the  rivers  in  this  section. 
A  coaster  informed  us  that  we  could  readily  distin 
guish  the  entrance  to  the  Ilomosassa  river  by  the  pres 
ence  of  the  wreck  of  a  blockade  runner.  At  two  p.  M. 
we  reached  a  point  where  we  expected  to  discover  the 
entrance  to  the  river,  and  looked  for  the  wreck  ;  but 


SUBTERRANEAN   STREAMS.  333 

we  squinted  and  quizzed  in  vain.  We  turned  the  prow 
of  the  Spray  toward  the  shore,  but  could  not  determine 
which  opening  was  the  mouth  of  the  stream.  Here  was 
a  passage,  and  there  was  another  ;  openings  in  the  salt 
marsh  appeared  to  be  innumerable.  We  entered  a 
number,  but  soon  found  them  to  lead  into  shoal  water. 
Night  threw  her  mantle  over  the  scene,  and  we  anchored. 
About  nine  P.  M.  we  heard  the  sound  of  voices,  but 
soon  after  a  boat  containing  four  gentlemen  hauled 
alongside.  Upon  inquiry  we  found  that  they  hailed 
from  Crystal  river,  and  were  en  route  to  Jones',  on  the 
Homosassa.  The  pilot  stated  that  he  was  unable  to 
determine  his  position,  but  that  the  entrance  to  the 
mouth  of  the  river  was  bounded  to  the  north  by  a  shell 
bank.  We  informed  our  new  acquaintances  that  the 
shell  bank  they  were  in  search  of  was  but  a  few  hundred 
yards  distant,  and  if  they  would  follow  we  would  pilot 
them  to  the  entrance.  We  landed  at  the  shell  bank, 
and  after  indulging  in  a  boyish-like  freak  of  setting  fire 
to  the  decayed  foliage  of  the  yucca  and  palm  trees,  we 
anchored  and  turned  in  for  the  night. 

Sportsman  in  search  of  Homosassa  river  will  find  its 
mouth  ten  miles  south-east  of  the  Crystal,  and  the  same 
distance  north-west  of  the  Chisiowilski  rivers.  In 
approaching  the  mouth  of  the  river  a  mass  of  rocks  will 
be  noticed  a  quarter  of  a  mile  north-west  of  the  mouth, 
and  a  white  shell  bank  from  six  to  eight  feet  high  on  its 
northern  side.  For  several  miles  in  a  westerly  and 
southerly  direction  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  the 
water  will  be  found,  to  very  shoal,  and  the  navigation 
difficult  in  consequence  of  the  existence  of  large  beds  of 
hard  limestone  rocks,  extensive  beds  of  can  oysters,  broad 
sand-flats,  and  sundry  nigger  heads.  To  parties  who 


334:  SOUTH-WEST  FLORIDA. 

attempt  the  navigation  of  this  section  without  a  pilot, 
we  would  say,  Shorten  sail,  keep  a  good  look-out,  and 
"go  easy  over  the  rough  places." 


11. — A.  SPORTSMAN'S  PARADISE. 

THE  morning  after  our  arrival  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Tlomosassa  we  were  moving  by  daylight,  and  after 
breakfast  followed  in  the  wake  of  our  new  friends,  as 
their  boatmen  professed  to  be  acquainted  with  the  chan 
nel.  We  had  not  proceeded  over  one  mile  before  wo 
found  the  Spray  to  be  hard  and  fast  on  a  cove-oyster  bar. 
As  the  boat  belonging  to  our  new  friends  was  light  draught, 
they  left  us  alone  in  our  glory.  Finally  we  found  the 
channel,  and  proceeded  but  a  short  distance  when  we 
discovered  what  appeared  to  be  two  rivers,  and  we  nat 
urally  followed  the  widest.  By  the  use  of  the  lead  we 
found  the  channel  to  shoal  rapidly,  so  we  returned  and 
took  the  right-hand  stream,  and  after  sailing  a  distance 
of  four  miles  we  sighted  a  residence  on  a  high  shell  bank 
and  an  attractive  boat-house  at  the  water's  edge.  As  we 
reached  the  landing,  the  rain  descended  in  torrents,  and 
we  pushed  the  stern  of  the  Spray  under  the  boat-house. 
We  had  barely  secured  the  boat  before  a  youth  presented 
himself  and  invited  us  to  accept  the  hospitalities  of  the 
house.  We  inquired  for  Mr.  Jones,  and  were  informed 
that  he  was  absent,  so  we  politely  declined  the  invitation 
so  hospitably  extended.  As  it  was  blowing  a  gale  we 
deemed  it  prudent  not  to  light  a  fire  in  our  stove,  but 
indulged  in  a  homeopathic  meal,  consisting  of  three  red 


A  SPORTSMAN'S  PARADISE.  335 

herrings,  a  cup  of  lemonade,  and  a  few  soda  crackers  per 
man.  Our  frugal  repast  was  barely  finished  when  we 
received  a  pressing  invitation  to  dinner,  and  as  our  cloth 
ing  was  not  very  ornamental,  we  offered  as  an  excuse 
that  we  had  dined  sumptuously.  Soon  after  we  noticed 
a  lady  running  through  the  rain  toward  the  boat-house, 
and  her  pleasant  and  smiling  face  convinced  us  that  she 
was  kind  and  hospitable,  and,  in  words,  she  informed  us 
that  "  Mr.  Jones  was  absent,  but  that  she  was  chief  of 
the  establishment  under  the  circumstances."  Finding 
that  "  no  excuse  would  be  accepted,  and  that  we  must 
make  ourselves  at  home,"  we  surrendered,  and  followed 
her  to  the  dining  room.  Upon  entering  we  found  a 
large  dining  table  groaning  under  a  supply  of  edibles 
that  would  have  gratified  both  a  gourmand  and  a  gourmet. 
For  nearly  two  months  we  had  not  taken  a  seat  at  a 
table,  and  it  was  simply  a  caution  to  cooks  to  see  the 
manner  in  which  we  deposited  boiled  and  baked  sheeps- 
head,  roasted  and  stewed  wild  ducks,  beef,  vegetables, 
home-made  bread,  fresh  milk  and  butter,  an  excellent 
dessert,  and  an  indefinite  number  of  the  most  delicious 
oranges* 

After  dinner  we  expressed  a  desire  to  leave  and  reach 
the  head  of  the  river,  but  Mrs.  J.  insisted  upon  our  re 
maining  until  Mr.  J.  returned,  and  finding  that  excuses 
were  useless)  we  accepted  the  invitation  so  hospitably 
tendered.  Homosassa  was  the  residence  of  the  Hon.  Mr. 
Yulee  before  the  war,  and  the  house  is  situated  on  a  shell 
mound  sloping  to  the  river.  Along  the  water's  edge  a 
permanent  stone  wall  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length  has 
been  constructed.  Near  the  stone- wall  a  row  of  gigantic 
fig-trees  are  growing,  the  spread  of  the  branches  of  the 
largest  being  fifty-three  feet.  The  river  is  about  ten 


336  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

miles  in  length,  and  as  soon  as  the  weather  permitted  we 
examined  it  to  its  source,  as  well  as  the  adjoining  country. 
Two  miles  above  Mr.  J.'s  residence  we  left  the  boat,  and 
landed  at  the  lower  edge  of  the  old  sugar  plantation. 
Here  we  found  an  old  clearing  of  several  hundred  acres, 
which  had  been  devoted  to  sugar  culture  in  times  past.  In 
traversing  the  old  plantation  we  noticed  deer  and  turkey 
tracks  in  every  direction.  We  reached  in  the  river  again 
at  the  old  sugar  house,  and  took  seats  in  the  yawl  boat. 
Proceeding  up  the  stream  we  noticed  large  fish  in  thou 
sands  fleeing  before  the  boat.  After  a  pleasant  journey 
we  found  ourselves  floating  in  the  bosom  of  Homosassa 
Spring — truly  an  enchanting  spot,  a  view  of  which  repaid 
us  for  all  our  wanderings.  Looking  over  the  side  of  the 
boat  we  noticed  a  number  of  huge  snapping  turtles  cling 
ing  to  the  rocky  ledges,  and  cavalli,  red-fish,  bass,  sheeps- 
head,  weak-fish  and  red  and  black  grouper  in  thousands 
leisurely  swimming  about  the  basin.  In  this  spring  all 
the  species  of  fish  are  ever  ready  to  take  a  bait,  and  the 
follower  of  Old  Isaac  can  obtain  a  surfeit  of  sport  at  any 
time.  Owing  to  the  voracity  of  the  fish  and  the  clear 
ness  of  the  water  the  piscator  can  select  the  variety  of 
fish  he  wishes  to  capture.  In  consequence  of  the  pres 
ence  of  a  number  of  large  turtles  and  such  countless 
numbers  of  fish,  the  water  in  this  basin  is  not  as  clear  as 
it  is  in  some  others,  thirty-five  to  forty  feet  being  the 
limit  where  fish  can  be  seen.  We  measured  the  deepest 
point  in  the  basin  and  found  the  lead  to  reach  bottom 
at  forty-eight  feet. 

Around  the  basin  and  along  the  banks  of  the  river 
we  found  large  numbers  of  water  turkeys,  cormorants, 
fish-hawks,  and  species  of  the  heron  and  crane  fami 
lies,  which  were  more  easily  approached  than  on  any 


A  SPORTSMAN'S  PARADISE.  33? 

strcani  we  have  visited.  Ducks,  not  to  be  enumerated 
by  thousands  but  by  square  acres,  were  visible  to  the 
right  and  left,  and  before  and  behind  us.  The  sportsman 
can  find  accommodations  at  Mr.  Jones',  and  can  fully 
occupy  his  time.  Near  the  house  excellent  sheepshead- 
ing  exists,  and  these  noble  fish,  of  large  size,  can  be  cap 
tured  until  the  arms  ache.  By  trolling  with  a  spoon  or 
spinner,  red-fish  can  be  caught  ranging  from  five  to  thirty 
pounds.  A  year  or  two  since,  a  gentleman  from  tho 
Hub  engaged  in  this  kind  of  fishing,  and  pickerel  fisher 
like,  placed  the  line  between  his  teeth.  He  secured  a 
bite,  the  line  fouled,  and  at  the  end  of  the  performance 
he  was  minus  a  tooth  but  landed  a  thirty-two  pound  red- 
fish.  By  visiting  the  spring  four  miles  from  the  house, 
the  knight  of  the  rod  can  land  fish  of  large  size  as  rap 
idly  as  he  can  bait  and  secure  his  fish.  If  he  desires 
larger  and  more  clumsy  game  he  can  amuse  himself  cap 
turing  turtles  ranging  from  eighteen  to  thirty  inches 
in  length.  In  the  Homosassa  and  Salt  rivers,  and  in  the 
bayous  and  blind  creek  near  Mr.  Jones'  residence,  the 
shootist  will  find  ducks  by  the  square  acre,  and  if  he  is 
disposed  to  engage  in  the  destruction  of  larger  game — 
such  as  pelicans,  gannet,  and  an  endless  variety  of  herons 
and  cranes — all  that  is  necessary  to  be  done  is  to  lay  in  a 
stock  of  provisions,  take  a  boat,  and  sail  to  one  of  the 
St.  Martin's  Keys — a  few  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Homosassa.  On  one  of  these  keys  the  sportsman  will 
find  a  rookery,  where  the  sea  birds,  frequenting  an  area 
of  probably  forty  miles,  nightly  collect  to  roost. 

At  the  old   sugar  plantation   two   miles  above  the 
house,  good  quail  and  snipe  shooting  is  obtainable.     Bears 
exist  in  the  hammocks,  and  can  be  captured  if  the  sports 
man  secures  the  services  of  a  "  cracker  "  with  his  bear  dogs, 
15 


•538  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

The  neighborhood  seems  to  be  a  favorite  resort  for  deer, 
and  for  this  description  of  the  sport  we  can  unhesitat 
ingly  recommend  Jones'  as  a  place  of  resort.  The  still 
hunter,  by  visiting  the  old  sugar  plantation  on  the  edge 
of  the  pine  timber,  four  miles  from  the  house,  will  ex 
perience  but  little  difficulty  in  securing  a  pair  of  antlers 
worthy  of  gracing  his  ISforthern  home.  For  miles  west 
and  south-west  of  the  house  large  areas  of  low-lying  land 
exist,  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  rushes  and 
coarse  grasses,  with  here  and  there  islands  of  timber, 
consisting  of  gum,  live  and  swamp  oak,  cedar  and  cab 
bage  palms.  The  low  lands  furnish  excellent  feed,  and 
the  islands  shelter  for  deer.  Late  in  the  year  the  rushes 
and  grasses  lose  their  vitality,  and  if  a  windy  day  is 
selected,  thousands  of  acres  can  be  burned  over  by  the 
application  of  a  single  match.  In  a  few  weeks  the  flats 
will  be  covered  with  a  luxuriant  and  succulent  growth 
of  grass,  and  deer  will  visit  the  locality  in  numbers. 
These  flats  are  comparatively  dry,  and  would  furnish  the 
fire-pan  hunter  an  excellent  Held  for  sport.  If  parties 
who  propose  visiting  Homosassa  would  communicate 
with  Mr.  Jones  a  few  weeks  in  advance,  he  would  burn 
off  a  few  square  miles  of  marsh  for  the  benefit  of  his 
visitors.  If  turkey  shooting  is  desired,  the  sportsman 
can  enjoy  it  by  ascending  the  river  to  the  spring,  and 
proceeding  to  the  edge  of  the  pine  timber.  Mr.  Jones 
nephew,  a  mere  lad,  informed  us  that  he  had  killed 
sixteen  dccT  within  a  short  period,  and  iu  hail  of  the 
house,  on  a  small  clearing  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river.  As  Frank  was  unacquainted  with  lire  hunting,  I 
suggested  that  we  should  cMigage  in  the  sport.  After 
supper  we  provided  ourselves  with  some  fat  pine,  and  u 
long-handled  frying-pan.  \Ve  landed  on  the  opposite 


A   SPORTSMAN'S   PARADISE.  339 

bank  at  the  clearing,  lighted  our  fire,  and  had  not  pro 
ceeded  over  eighty  yards  before  we  noticed  four  fine  deer 
within  thirty  yards.  Fortunately  for  the  deer,  Frank 
had  an  acute  attack  of  the  buck  fever  and  aimed  at  the 
Pleiades.  While  he  was  taking  aim  I  heard  voices  at  the 
house  ;  hence  here  was  deer  shooting  within  a  reasonable 
distance  from  home.  Next  day  I  suggested  another 
hunt,  and  intimated  that  I  would  try  my  luck.  After 
supper,  several  visitors,  Harry,  Frank,  Mr.  J.'s  nephew, 
Fifteenth  Amendment  Dick,  and  Al  Fresco — seven  in  all 
— left  for  the  clearing,  truly  a  sufficient  number  to  prevent 
the  possibility  of  securing  a  deer.  We  lighted  our  fire, 
and  had  not  proceeded  over  one  hundred  yards  before  I 
noticed  four  deer  within  twenty  yards  of  the  light,  but 
owing  to  the  noise  made  by  the  seven  pairs  of  feet 
tramping  through  the  dry  grass,  they  were  alarmed,  and 
before  I  could  step  in  front  of  the  light  to  insure  accu 
racy  of  aim  they  bounded  into  the  hammock.  Look 
ing  to  the  right  I  noticed  a  pair  of  eyes  at  a  distance  of 
probably  eighty  yards.  I  gave  him  both  barrels,  and 
although  wounded  he  escaped.  Those  who  are  posted  will 
remark  that  it  was  madness  to  attempt  fire  hunting 
with  such  a  retinue,  and  I  am  prepared  to  admit  the 
nselessness  of  the  proceeding,  but  I  dislike  to  be  selfish 
and  insist  on  engaging  in  the  sport  with  but  one  com 
panion.  On  the  first  occasion  our  party  numbered  five, 
and  on  the  last  seven,  and  if  deer  can  be  so  easily  ap 
proached  by  such  numbers,  what  would  be  the  result  if 
the  sportsman  carried  his  own  head  light,  or  was  merely 
attended  by  the  pan  carrier. 

Salt  river  is  a  tidal  channel,  extending  from  the 
Homosassa  to  the  Crystal  river,  and  is  about  ten  miles  in 
length,  with  its  bottom  literally  paved  with  large  and 


340  SOUTH-WEST  FLORIDA. 

luscious-cooking  oysters.  The  bars  off  the  mouth  of 
the  Crystal  river  are  covered  with  the  largest  and  finest 
salt  oysters  to  be  found  on  the  American  coast.  When 
he  has  visitors  Mr.  Jones  visits  these  beds  weekly,  and 
obtains  a  boat  load  of  these  delicious  bivalves  for  the 
benefit  of  his  guests,  who  can  have  them  cooked  how  or 
when  they  like,  or  can  open  and  deposit  them  when  the 
spirit  moveth.  Having  referred  to  the  bivalve  attrac 
tions  of  the  place,  I  may  as  well  notice  the  host  and 
hostess  as  well  as  the  house  and  dietetic  attractions. 

Mr.  Jones  is  a  Bostonian,  and  served  with  honor  in 
the  First  Massachusetts  cavalry  during  the  war.  Visitors 
will  find  him  quiet,  intelligent,  unobtrusive,  and  ever 
studious  of  the  comfort  of  his  guests.  Mrs.  Jones  is  a 
native  of  Bloomfield,  New  York,  and  will  be  found  to  be 
intelligent,  affable,  kind,  and  ever  ready  to  contribute 
to  the  comfort  and  pleasures  of  those  who  favor  her  with 
their  patronage.  She  seems  to  anticipate  every  want  of 
her  visitors,  and  as  a  cook  and  housekeeper  she  cannot 
be  excelled.  Everything  was  scrupulously  clean,  and 
the  table  in  every  way  unexceptionable.  "What  the  vis 
itor  to  Florida  seldom  meets  with,  he  will  find  at  Ilomo- 
sassa — the  best  of  home-made  bread,  fresh  milk  twice 
daily,  and  fresh  butter  at  least  twice  weekly.  In  addition 
to  a  lavish  supply  of  the  necessaries  and  luxuries  of  life, 
the  visitor  is  expected  to  deposit  an  indefinite  number 
of  the  most  delicious  oranges  after  each  meal,  between 
times,  and  before  retiring  at  night.  The  house  is  near 
the  river,  one  story  high,  and  surrounded  by  a  spacious 
veranda.  The  rooms  open  on  the  verandas  on  two  sides, 
the  ceilings  being  very  high,  and  each  having  a  fire-place 
in  it.  The  beds  are  such  as  visitors  seldom  find  in  Flor 
ida.  Owing  to  the  limited  number  of  rooms,  Mr.  Jones 


A  SPORTSMAN'S  PARADISE.  341 

can  accommodate  but  four  couples  in  tlie  main  build 
ing,  but  at  a  distance  of  one  hundred  yards  from  the 
house,  is  Liberty  Hall,  where  from  two  to  four  stags  can 
sleep  and  enjoy  themselves.  If  justified  (and  I  sin 
cerely  hope  he  will  be),  Mr.  Jones  will  add  to  his 
present  building. 

In  my  humble  opinion  no  place  in  the  State  presents 
so  many  attractions  for  the  sportsman,  if  we  take  into 
consideration  the  sporting  advantages  in  connection 
with  home  comforts,  excellent  accommodations,  superior 
table,  perfect  cleanliness,  and  an  admirable  climate. 
Sportsmen  who  wish  to  enjoy  themselves,  and  at  the 
same  time  be  accompanied  by  their  better  halves,  will 
find  this  place  to  offer  many  attractions.  If  a  stag 
party  of  from  two  to  four  wish  to  enjoy  themselves  for  a 
few  weeks  or  months,  we  would  recommend  them  to 
engage  Liberty  Hall.  What  surprised  me  most  was  the 
moderate  charge  for  the  accommodations  furnished — 
from  $10  to  $12  per  week.  Visitors  will  find  an  ample 
supply  of  boats,  and  for  a  trifling  charge,  negroes  living 
on  the  plantation  will  keep  the  piscator  supplied  with 
bait.  Mr.  Jones  is  the  postmaster,  and  the  place  is 
provided  with  a  weekly  mail.  We  spent  a  week  at  Ho- 
mosassa,  and  found  -but  one  thing  to  annoy,  that  being 
the  fact  that  we  were  compelled  to  leave. 

To  those  who  propose  visiting  the  locality  we  would 
say,  provide  a  strong  bass  rod,  a  crab  net,  and  a  full 
supply  of  strong  hooks  and  lines.  In  this  connection  wo 
may  remark  that  we  tested  at  this  point  as  well  as  many 
others,  a  sheepshead  hook  manufactured  by  Shipley  & 
Son,  of  No.  503  Commerce  street,  Philadelphia,  and  we 
can  unhesitatingly  recommend  it  as  unequalled  for 
strength  and  temper.  The  only  fault  of  the  hook  is 


342  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

in  the  shortness  of  the  shank,  which  should  be  twice  the 
present  length. 

Some  of  my  readers  will  ask,  Where  is  Homosassa,  and 
how  can  it  be  reached  ?  which  I  will  explain.  It  is  about 
forty  miles  from  Cedar  Keys,  and  may  be  reached  by 
two  routes — one  via  Savannah,  Fernandina,  or  Jackson 
ville  to  Cedar  Keys,  and  the  other  via  Silver  Spring  and 
Ocala.  The  sportsman  can  easily  ascertain  upon  what 
day  he  will  reach  Cedar  Keys,  and  by  addressing  Alfred 
E.  Jones,  postmaster,  Homasassa,  Florida,  in  advance 
of  the  day  of  arrival,  Mr.  Jones  will  be  found  on  the 
keys  with  a  boat  to  transport  visitors  to  his  place  free  of 
charge.  If  unable  to  communicate  with  Mr.  Jones,  a 
suitable  boat  may  be  chartered  at  Cedar  Keys  for  about 
$10  for  the  trip.  If  the  sportsman  is  desirous  of  visiting 
an  interesting  and  attractive  portion  of  the  State,  he  can 
take  steamer  from  Jacksonville  to  Silver  Spring,  and 
back  from  the  spring  to  Ocala — a  distance  of  six  miles. 
From  Ocala  to  Ilomosassa  the  distance  is  forty  miles,  over 
a  good  road,  and  E.  J.  Harris,  of  the  Ocala  House,  will 
make  the  necessary  arrangements  for  transportation  of 
visitors  to  the  hospitable  ingle-side  of  A.  E.  Jones.  We 
have  at  various  times  wandered  over  a  large  portion  of 
the  State,  and  in  all  sincerity  can  assure  the  readers 
that,  taking  everything  into  consideration,  we  found 
Jones',  on  the  Ilomosassa,  the  most  attractive  point 
we  have  thus  far  found  in  Florida  ;  and  if  alive  and  kick 
ing  during  the  course  of  next  winter  we  propose  visiting 
there  again,  and  it  would  afford  me  great  pleasure  to 
meet  some  of  the  sporting  readers  at  the  hospitable 
home  of  Alfred  E.  Jones. 


SUGGESTIONS  TO  TOURISTS.  343 


12. — SUGGESTIONS  TO  TOURISTS. 

PRIVATE  business  requiring  Mr.  Jones'  presence  at 
the  settlement  at  Crystal  river,  we  took  advantage 
of  the  opportunity  and  followed  in  his  wake.  We  re 
luctantly  bade  good-by  to  Mrs.  Jones,  and  the  un 
bounded  hospitality  and  numerous  sporting  attractions 
of  Homosassa.  This  was  our  first  visit  to  this  sports 
man's  paradise,  and  we  have  reason  to  believe  that  it  will 
not  be  the  last.  Crystal  river  is  distant  about  ten  miles 
from  the  Homosassa,  and  the  two  are  connected  by  a 
cross  stream,  known  as  Salt  river,  the  latter  being 
parallel  with,  and  distant  six  miles  from  the  Gulf. 
Two  years  since,  two  Northern  sportsmen  were  rowing  a 
small  Whitehall  boat  at  the  Homosassa  end  of  the  river 
when  a  tarpum  weighing  125  pounds  leaped  into  the 
boat.  The  result  was  ludicrous  in  the  extreme.  In  his 
efforts  to  escape,  the  motions  of  the  fish  imperilled  the 
hull  as  well  as  the  shins  of  the  occupants.  Oars  were 
tried,  but  the  sportsmen  soon  discovered  that  they 
would  run  the  risk  of  knocking  a  hole  through  the  boat's 
bottom.  Jack-knives  were  tested,  but  the  huge  scale  of 
the  fish  protected  it.  As  a  dernier  ressort,  the  two- 
legged  occupants  sought  refuge  at  either  end  of  the  boat, 
and  waited  until  the  fish  became  exhausted.  For  several 
miles  after  entering  this  stream,  we  found  it  to  be  liter 
ally  covered  with  wild  ducks,  but  as  we  could  not  utilize 
them,  we  refrained  from  wasting  ammunition.  This 
river  is  tortuous  and  shallow,  and  presents  numerous 
difficulties  in  navigation  in  the  way  of  extensive  oyster 
bars  and  mud  flats.  The  bivalves  are  very  large,  fat,  and 
and  almost  inexhaustible.  Having  no  experience  in  the 


344  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

canning  business,  wo  can  form  no  idea  of  the  effect  of 
climate  in  interfering-  with  the  canning  process  ;  but  if  the 
climate  did  not  prove  too  warm,,  we  fancy  that  this 
would  be  one  of  the  best  locations  in  the  United  States 
for  a  canning  establishment.  Wages  are  low,  and 
oysters  of  large  size  can  be  obtained  in  unlimited  quantity 
for  a  trifling  outlay.  The  prepared  oysters  could  bo 
cheaply  shipped  to  New  York,  New  Orleans,  or  Havana. 
AVe  reached  the  settlement  of  Crystal  river  early  in 
the  afternoon,  and  received  a  hearty  welcome.  The 
settlement  consists  of  about  one  dozen  buildings,  and 
has  considerable  trade  with  the  interior.  AVc  entered 
the  basin,  and  found  a  number  of  springs  which  we 
sounded,  the  deepest  measuring  but  eighteen  feet.  In  the 
afternoon,  the  residents  arranged  for  a  fire  hunt  for  our 
benefit,  but  as  the  night  was  chilly  and  as  I  was  suffering 
from  an  attack  of  inflammation  of  my  right  thumb,  follow 
ing  an  injury,  I  deemed  it  best  to  remain  on  the  Spray, 
and  allow  Frank  and  Harry  to  represent  the  party.  In 
this  connection  we  may  remind  the  uninitiated  that 
before  they  engaged  in  fire  hunting  it  might  be  advisable 
for  them  to  examine  and  note  the  size  as  well  as  distance 
apart  of  the  eyes  of  horses,  cows,  and  deer,  as  mistakes 
are  liable  to  be  made.  One  of  the  gentlemen  who  was 
instrumental  in  getting  up  the  fire  hunt,  has  a  tender 
spot ;  and  that  is  an  error  he  committed  in  his  first  lire 
hunt.  lie  sighted  a  pair  of  eyes,  took  deliberate  aim, 
pulled  trigger,  and  next  day  paid.  $25,  the  value  of  a 
neighbor's  cow.  "Within  a  short  period  a  Northern  man 
settled  not  a  hundred  miles  from  New  Smyrna,  and 
resolved  upon  having  some  sport.  lie  started  with  pan 
and  double-barrelled  gun,  and  after  wandering  several 
miles,  succeeded  in  shining  the  eyes  of  two  deer,  and  fired 


SUGGESTIONS  TO  TOURISTS.  345 

at  both.  They  fell,  and  upon  examination  of  the  ani 
mals  and  the  surroundings,  he  realized  the  fact  that  he 
had  lost  his  way,  was  near  his  home,  and  in  a  sportsman 
like  manner  had  killed  a  heifer  and  colt  belonging  to 
himself. 

Finding  nothing  very  attractive  about  the  settlement, 
we  departed  for  the  Crystal  river  oyster  bars.  These  are 
situated  about  four  miles  from  the  main  land,  and  should 
be  visited  by  every  sportsman  who  is  fond  of  superior 
bivalves.  By  landing  on  the  bars  at  low  water,  large 
and  delicious  oysters  can  be  gathered  in  any  quantity. 
We  found  them  to  be  fat,  and  of  the  most  excellent  flavor. 
Leaving  the  oyster  bar,  we  headed  for  the  Withlacoochio 
river,  distant  ten  miles.  The  opening  of  this  river  can 
be  easily  detected  by  the  presence  of  a  large  saw-mill  at 
the  westerly  side  of  the  river's  mouth.  We  encamped 
for  the  night  near  the  mill,  and  the  next  morning  com 
menced  ascending  the  stream.  We  ascended  for  several 
miles,  but  in  consequence  of  the  height  and  density  of  the 
timber,  we  found  our  sail  useless  ;  as  we  were  not  inclined 
to  pull  against  the  rapid  current,  and  as  the  river  did 
not  seem  to  present  any  sporting  attractions,  we  re 
turned  to  the  mill  and  encamped  for  the  night. 

Next  morning,  at  seven  o'clock  A.  M.,  we  hoisted  sail 
and  headed  for  Cedar  Keys.  Not  being  disposed  to  fol 
low  the  trend  of  the  coast  and  dodge  oyster-bars  and 
nigger-heads,  we  steered  a  course  by  compass,  and  reached 
the  Keys  at  one  P.  M.,  at  which  point  ended  the  cruise 
of  the  good  boat  Spray.  We  have  wandered  some  little 
in  this,  as  well  as  in  other  lands,  but  our  trip,  extending 
over  a  period  of  two  months,  we  shall  always  review  as 
the  most  pleasant  one  we  have  ever  taken.  Having 
found  our  tour  so  enjoyable  and  satisfactory,  we  feel  dis- 
15* 


346  SOUTH-WEST  FLORIDA. 

posed  to  try  it  again,  visit  the  best  fishing  and  hunting 
points,  and  examine  the  portion  of  coast  lying  between 
Punta  Rassa  and  Cape  Sable. 

In  taking  a  farewell  of  the  readers  who  may  have  fol 
lowed  us  in  our  cruise,  I  may  remark  that,  however  fishy 
some  of  our  statements  may  appear,  they  can  be  relied 
upon.  To  day  I  received  a  letter  from  a  gentleman  resid 
ing  in  Savannah,  in  which  I  find  the  following  : 

"I  have  travelled  considerably  in  Florida,  more  espe 
cially  in  the  eastern  and  western  points  of  South  Florida  ; 
and  I  may  here  add,  that  while  reading  your  interesting 
letters,  I  wandered  in  my  memory  over  many  familiar 
places  with  you,  and  I  honestly  congratulate  you  on  the 
accuracy  of  your  reports." 

I  may  also  remark  that  I  have  become  so  much 
attached  to  Floridians,  and  am  so  much  pleased  with  the 
climate,  that  I  have  permanently  settled  in  Jacksonville  ; 
and  that  it  will,  at  all  times,  afford  me  pleasure  to  commu 
nicate  to  sportsmen  visiting  the  State,  any  information 
in  my  possession.  Our  good  friend,  the  editor,  is  at 
liberty  to  give  my  name  to  sportsmen  who  desire  it.  In 
the  future  we  propose  visiting  localities  away  from  the 
beaten  track  of  tourist  travel,  and  shall  briefly  describe 
their  sporting  advantages,  for  the  benefit  of  gunnists 
and  fishermen. 

Having  acquired  some  little  knowledge  of  the  outfit 
necessary  for  a  trip  to  the  south-west  coast,  we  would 
advise  those  who  intend  visiting  the  region  to  lay  in 
an  ample  supply  of  the  best  pilot  bread  in  New  York  or 
Savannah.  A  portion  of  the  stock  could  be  forwarded 
by  steamer  to  Tampa  Hay,  care  of  Miller  &  Henderson, 
and  a  portion  to  Punta  Rassa,  to  care  of  telegraph  operator. 
In  a  former  communication,  I  stated  that  the  steamer 


SUGGESTIONS  TO   TOURISTS.  o47 

Emilie,  of  Roberts'  line,  carried  the  mail  between  Cedar 
Keys  and  Key  "West,  touching  at  Tampa,  Manatee,  and 
Punta  Eassa  ;  but  since  that  was  written,  the  government 
has  made  a  change,  and  the  service  is  performed  by  a 
steamer  belonging  to  Captain  McKay,  of  Tampa,  Sports 
men  will  find  the  captain  a  jolly,  companionable,  courteous 
and  obliging  Scotsman — one  who  is  ever  ready  to  convey 
information  or  confer  a  favor. 

In  a  former  number  we  referred  to  our  outfit  for  the 
expedition,  and  have  but  a  few  suggestions  to  make.  We 
would  recommend  sportsmen  to  provide  themselves  with 
a  harpoon  and  grains,  as  these  would  be  found  useful  in  the 
capture  of  fin-fish  and  tarpum  ;  and  if  more  noble  game 
would  prove  desirable,  the  aspirant  for  sporting  fame 
may  fasten  to  a  large  shark  or  devil-fish,  and,  to  say  the 
least,  enjoy  a  tow.  We  frequently  experienced  the  want 
of  a  light  skiff  ;  and  can  assure  the  sportsmen  that  one 
would  be  found  very  convenient.  A  large  frying-pan, 
with  a  long  handle,  would  be  found  very  useful  for  fire 
hunting.  In  a  recent  issue  of  the  "  Forest  and  Stream," 
we  noticed  an  advertisement  of  a  lamp  and  reflector  for 
night  hunting,  and  from  the  description,  have  reason 
to  believe  that  it  might  prove  useful — or  at  least,  we 
would  like  to  give  one  a  thorough  practical  test.  Ammu 
nition  and  fishing-tackle  of  good  quality  cannot  be  pur 
chased  at  any  point  on  the  coast,  and  we  would  advise 
sportsmen  to  supply  themselves  with  a  suitable  outfit. 
In  this  connection  wre  cannot  refrain  from  referring  tc 
the  fact  that  our  fishing  rods  and  tackle  were  supplied 
by  Shipley  &  Son,  of  503  Commerce  street,  Philadelphia  ; 
and  gun,  rifle,  and  ammunition  by  William  Wurfflein, 
208  South  Second  street,  of  the  same  city.  The  prices 
were  moderate  and  quality  proved  to  be  in  every  way 


348  SOUTH-WEST   FLORIDA. 

satisfactory ;  and  from  experience  we  can  honestly  rec 
ommend  these  parties  to  the  notice  of  sportsmen. 

A  man  Friday  would  be  found  very  useful,  and  we 
would  advise  sportsmen  to  secure  the  services  of  a  com 
petent  one.  Any  quantity  of  pilots  and  sailing-masters 
can  be  engaged  on  the  south-west  coast ;  but  nearly 
all  of  them  have  a  weakness — that  of  raising  the 
little  finger  too  high  and  too  often.  If  any  party  of 
sportsmen  should  conclude  to  follow  in  my  wake,  I  would 
advise  them  to  secure  the  services  of  Henry  Austin,  of 
Beverly,  New  Jersey,  who  accompanied  me  on  my  trip  ; 
who  is  well  posted  as  regards  the  difficulties  of  the  navi 
gation,  and  the  best  points  for  sporting.  He  is  temper 
ate,  willing,  industrious,  and  obliging  ;  a  good  shot,  a  fair 
cook,  and  perfectly  at  home  in  a  boat,  lie  is  in  posses 
sion  of  a  valuable  amount  of  information  regarding 
places  visited,  and  would  be  found  very  useful  as  a  guide 
and  sailing-master.  We  unhesitatingly  recommend  him, 
and  feel  assured  that  if  he  should  be  engaged  by  any 
party  that  his  services  would  be  found  valuable. 

In  concluding  our  brief  notes  of  a  sportsman's  para 
dise,  we  may  remark,  that  we  have  endeavored  to  be 
practical,  and  confine  ourselves  to  data  that  would  interest 
sportsmen;  and  if  the  end  has  been  attained  it  will 
gratify 

"AL  FKESCO." 


£A—  ^ 

Vs  No.  1  CORTLANDT  STREKT,          ^ 

YORK, 


ftef  of 


Agent  for  the  celebrated  Far-Killing  Prize  Guns  of  W.  W.  Greener. 
Has  also  in  stock,  or  to  order,  a  good  assortment  of  Guns  by  W.  & 
C.  Scott  &  Son,  and  other  makers.  Also  sole  New  York  agent  for 
Holabird's  Shooting  and  Fishing  Suits. 

TOURISTS  SUPPLIED  WITH  COMPLETE  OUTFITS 
AT  REASONABLE  PRICES. 

L.  H.  ABBEY.  1C.  F.  IMBRIK.  ANDREW  CLERK,  Special. 

ABBEY   &   IMBRIE, 

Successors  to  ANDREW  CLERK  &  Co., 
YORK,    LONDON"   J±NT>    RKDIDITCH, 

Importers,  Manufacturers,  Wholesale  and  Retail  Dealers  in 


OF  EVERY  DESCRIPTION  AND  QUALITY, 

48  MAIDEN  LANE  and  35  LIBERTY  STREET, 

P.  O.  Box  1294.  NEW    YORK. 

We  particularly  call  attention  to  our  extensive  assortment  of  fine  goods  for  sports 
men;  such  as  Salmon,  Trout,  and  Black  Bass  Flies  and  Snell  Hooks,  on  hand  and  tied  to 
order;  Cuttyhunk  and  Pasque  Island  Bass  Line*,  Water-Proof  Braided  Silk  Lines,  etc.,  etc. 

Every  genuine  H.  L.  Leonard's  Six-Spliced  Bamboo  Salmon,  Trout  and  Bass 
Rod  is  marked  ''H.  L.  Leonard,  maker,  Abbey  &  Imbrie,  sole  agents."  Beware  of  imita 
tions. 

Sole  agents  for  the  McCord  Patent  Celluloid  Black  Bass  Eeel,  and  Aiken  Black  Bass 
Rod. 

Proprietors  of  the  celebrated  Winchester  Patent  Braided  Rods. 

Sole  Importers  of  Joseph  Warrin's  Drill-Eyed  and  Egg-Eyed  Needles. 

Parties  fitted  out  with  appropriate  tackle  for  the  Rocky  Mountains,  Pacific  Coast, 
Canada,  Maine,  Adirondacks,  etc.,  etc. 

Orders  received  by  mail  will  receive  the  personal  attention  of  the  firm. 


BARTON,  ALEXANDER  &  WALLER, 

IMPORTERS    AND   DEALERS   IN 

Docket  cytlery,  fehipg  Jackie,  etc.,  etc, 


Breech  Loaders  of  the  Prominent  Manufacturers,  Split 
Bamboo  and  other  Fine  Fishing  Rods,  Lines, 

Reels,  Hooks,  Artificial  Flies,  and 
EVERY  ARTICLE  REQUISITE  FOR  SPORTING  PURPOSES, 

IOI  and   IO3  Duane  St.,  New  York. 
Manufacturers  of  United  States  Arms  Ccx  Repeating  Pistols,  etc. 

ALLOCK'S  flSHING  I  OURIST. 


A    Complete   Guide    for    Trout   and   Salmon   Anglers,      By 
Charles  Hallock,  editor  of  Forest  and  Stream.     Cloth,  $2.OO. 

It  contains  information  relative  to  every  salmon  and  trout  region  in  America.  It  is 
the  fruit  of  the  author's  own  wanderings,  and  is  replete  with  his  adventures  and  ex 
periences.  Written  in  a  clear,  unaffected,  hearty  style,  it  glows  with  the  enthusiasm  of 
a  genuine  sportsman,  and  will  appeal  strongly  to  the  sympathies  of  every  member  of  the 
craft.— Boswn  Journal. 

This  is  altogether  the  most  comprehensive  guide  book  which  has  ever  been  published 
for  the  especial  benefit  of  Anglers.  It  takes  the  reader  to  all  the  game-waters  on  the  con 
tinent,  and  communicates,  in  every  case,  just  the  information  desired  by  those  who  may 
be  in  search  of  new  fields  for  sport.—  Albany  Evening  Journal. 


HARPER  &  BROTHERS,  Publishers. 

For  Sale  by  FOREST  &  STREAM   PUBLISHING   COMPANY,   17 
Chatham  St.,  and  sent  by  mail,  postage  prepaid,  on  receipt  of  price. 

MAGNOLIA    HOU1TE7 

St.  Augustine,    Fla. 

N.  S.  PALMER,  PROPRIETOR. 

This  house  is  one  of  the  most  popular  and  well  appointed  in 
the  State.  Its  proprietor  will  be  favorably  remembered  by  the 
patrons  of  the  Metropolitan  Hotel,  at  Long  Branch,  last  Summer. 


EDWARD    O.    JENKINS, 

PRINTER  AND  STEREOTYPER, 

2O  NORTH  \VILLIA.T1  STREET,  New  York. 


Winchester  Repeating  Rifle 


MODEL  1873. 


This  Gun  is  now  the  leading  Sporting  Rifle  in  the  country,  and 
is  pre-eminently  adapted  to  all  the  wants  of  the  hunter  or  marks 
man,  amateur  or  professional. 

Its  leading  qualities  are  lightness,  combined  with  strength  and 
durability,  efficiency,  accuracy,  and  unparalleled  rapidity  of  fire. 


JACKSONVILLE,  FLA.,  Nov.  6,  1875 
WINCHESTER  REPEATING  ARMS  Co.  : 

I  have  been  hunting  with  one  of  your  Rifles  in  this  State  for  the  last  month. 
This  gun  was  borrowed,  and  I  could  not  buy  it ;  yet,  I  could  have  sold  it  many 
times. 

I  wish  you  to  send  me  two — one  for  myself,  and  one  for  a  friend. 

With  the  gun  I  have,  I  have  shot  more  deer  and  game  than  any  other  of  our 
party,  and  made  the  best  target  shooting. 

FRANK  B.  KNAPP. 
TCxtracts    from    Letters. 

"  All  that  is  claimed  for  it." 

"  The  hunter's  true  companion." 

"  The  Ne  Plus  Ultra  Sporting  Gun." 

"  Extremely  accurate ;  cannot  be  better.'" 

"  For  rapidity,   cannot  be  approached." 

"  Undoubtedly  t  fie  finest  gun  in  the  world." 

"  A  hard  shooter,  center  shooter  and  beautiful  gun." 

"  The  befit  Repeat  ing  Rifle,  now  made,  in  the  world." 

"  T/t€  best  rifle  now  in  use  for  hunting  and  sporting." 

"lam  satisfied  that  the  gun  is  the  perfection  ofjlrc-arms." 

"  Will  kill  deer  as  far  as  a  man  can  cover  if  tvith  open  sights." 

II  Is  sure  fire  and  its  killing  qualities  all  that  can  be  desired." 

"  In  conpetition  with  guns  of  other  makers  has  given  perfect  satisfaction." 

"  The  most  iwrfcct  of  all  breech-loaders  for  all  practical  and  sporting  purposes." 

For  illustrated  pamphlet  and  price  list,  address 

Winchester  Repeating  Arms  Co., 

NEW  HAVEN.  CONN. 


THE 


Unequalled  for  House  or  Camp  Use. 

This  Pipe  supplies  a  want  which  Smokers  have  long  felt.  It  is 
of  Briar  Wood,  to  which  a  Stem  made  of  pure  rag  Paper  is  so  at 
tached,  as  to  prevent  the  bowl  from  accumulating  rank  liquid,  or 
giving  off  any  unpleasant  taste  or  order.  The  bowl  and  mouth 
piece  may  be  used  indefinitely,  and  the  stem  may  be  changed  a* 
often  as  desired. 

Etra  Stems — long  and  short — accompany  each  pipe. 

The  price  of  Stems,  when  not  furnished  with  the  Pipe,  is  as  fol 
lows  : — 4  1-2  and  7  inch,  5  cents  each ;  12  inch,  15  cents  each. 

Sold  by  Pipe  and  Cigar  Dealers  generally.  A  complete  sample 
sent  by  mail  for  $1.00,  by 

.   J.  H.  HUBBARD,  Selling  Agent, 

Cambridge,  Mass. 

BOUDREN'S  PATENT  COMBINATION 

Jack  and  Fishing  Lamp, 

AND 

HUNTING 
SUPPORT 

!Tor   Lamp. 

For  NIGHT  HUNTING  Deer  and 
other    animals,    SPEARING    FISH. 
Fishing  Lamp.      Indispensable  on  any  Boating,  Yacht- 
^\.  ing,  or  Camping  Trip. 

(      )  By  the  use  of  the  support,  the  light  is 

under  the  perfect  control  of  the  wearer, 
and  leaves  head  and  arms  entirely  free. 
Not  affected  hy  Wind,  Rain  or  Jolting. 


As  a  DASH  LAMP  for  CAR- 


Burns  kerosene  safely  without  a  chimney. 
Throws  a  powerful  light  200  jeet  ahead. 
RIAGES  it  has  no  equal.    Fits  on  any  shaped  dash  or  on  any  vehicle. 

PRICE. 

Jack  and  Dash,  3  Attachments,  -  -  $6.OO 
Flghing  Lamp,  Jack  and  JDash,  -  -  8.0O 
Supports,  each, 3.OO 

Sent  C.  O.  D.,  with  privilege  of  examination. 

White  Manufacturing  Co.,  Bridgeport,  Ct. 

Jack  and  Dash  Lamp  A  liberal  discount  to  dealers.    Send  for  Circular. 


THE    GREAT    SOUTHERN 

Freight  &  Passenger  Line, 


,   SO. 

TO   ALL,  POINTS 

111  the  South  &  South-  West,  &  Florida  Ports. 

The  Following  Magnificent  Side-  wheel  Steamships 

SAIL  TRI-WEEKLY,  AT  3  P.  Ml.. 
EVERY   TUESDAY,    THURSDAY   AND   SATURDAY, 

FROM    PIER    29    NORTH    RIVER. 


CHAMPION,         CHARLESTON, 

Capt.  R.  W.  Lockwood. 

MANHATTAN, 


Capt.  Jas.  Berry, 


JAS.  ADGEK, 


Capt.  M.  S.  Woodhull.j          Capt.  J.  T.  Lockwood. 


SOUTH  CAROLINA, 


Capt.  J.  T.  Beckett. 


GEORGIA, 


Capt.  S.  Crowell. 


These  Steamships  have  been  handsomely  fitted  up  for  the  convenience  of  passengers, 
and  are  unrivalled  on  the  Coast  for  safety,  speed,  and  comfort.  They  have  large  carrying 
capacity,  and  injure  at  the  lowebt  rates. 


FROM:  NKW  YORK. 

Including  First-Class  STATEROOM  and  MEALS,  on  Steamships  to  Charleston,  viz.! 

APALACHICOLA,  Fla $50  00     KEY  WEST,  Fla $50  00 

AUGUSTA,  Ga. . .  22  00  i  LAKE  CITY,  Fla 30  25 

BALDWIN, Fla 27  75     MONTICELLO,  Fla 31  25 

CEDAR  KEYS,  Fla 32  75  I  ORANGE  MILLS,  Fla 3<>  25 

CHARLESTON,  S.  C 20  00  i  PALATKA,  Fla 29  75 

ENTERPRISE,  Fla  35  75     PENSACOLA,  Fla 41  00 

FERNANDIN A,  Fla 27  75      PICOLATA,  Fla 28  75 


GAINESVILLE,  Fla  30  25 

GREEN  COVE  SPRINGS,  Fla 28  75 

HAVANA 50  00 

HLBERN[A,  Fla 2875 

JACKSONVILLE,  Fla  27  75 


QUINCY,  Fla 32  50 

SAVANNAH,  Ga 22  00 

ST.  AUGUSTINE,  Fla 31  75 

TALLAHASSEE,  Fla...  ..3126 

TAMPA...  ..  41  50 


Passengers  have  the  privilege  of  taking  either  RAILROAD  or  STEAMBOAT  from 
Charleston  to  the  FLORIDA  PORTS  and  ST.  JOHN'S  RIVER  LANDINGS. 

JAMES  W.  QUINTARD  &,  CO.,  Agents, 

No.  177  WEST  ST.,  cor.  of  Warren,  New  York. 

JAMES  ADGER  &  CO.,  Agents  New  York  and  Charleston  Steamship  Company,  and 
WM°  AE  C'OURTNBY,  C°"  "  }  Agent8  N" Y'  &  S°'  Car"  Steam«hiP  Co"  Charleston,  S.  C. 

To  avoid  delay*,  mark   all  Roods— "Care  of  So.  Ca.  R.R.  Agent, 

<   h:n  It  -Ion,    S.    C." 
Florida  Freight,  *«  Care  of  Kaveuel  dc  Co.,  Charleetoii,  S.  C.'' 


A    Weekly  Journal  (of  Sixteen  Pages), 


DEVOTED   TO 


PRACTICAL   J^ATUF^AL   DISTORT, 

Fish  Culture,  Protection  of  Game,  Preservation  of  Forests, 

YACHTING,  BOATING, 


IT  IS  THE  OFFICIAL  ORGAN  OF  THE 

AMERICAN    FISH    CULTURISTS'    ASSOCIATION. 

JForcst  anb  Stream 

Is  the  only  Journal  published  in  this  country  that  fully  supplies  the  wants  and 
meets  the  necessities  of  the 

Gentleman    Sportsman. 

Send  for  Specimen  Copy.    Terms  $5.00  a  year.    Address  Forest  and  Stream 
Publishing  Co.,  17  Chatham  St.  (City  Hall  Square),  New  York.  Post  Office  Box  '.JS32. 

THE    UP-TOWN    SPORTSJIEN'S    DEPOT. 

CHAS.   L.   RITZMANN   &   CO., 

943  BROADWAY,  (above  22d  St.,)   Factory,  I  I  4  Centre  St. 

IMPORTERS  AND  MANUFACTURERS  OF 

Guns,  Rifles,  Pistols,  Fishing  Tackle. 

Remington  Rifles  and  Shot  Guns,  Holabird  Shooting  Suits,  Cartridge  Vest,  Belts 
and  Pouches.    Implements  for  both  muzzle  and  breech-loading  guns. 

SPORTSMEN'S  GOODS  AND  AMMUNITION  OF  ALL  KINDS. 

We  take  muzzle  loaders  in  exchange  for  breech-loaders,  and  have  always  some  fine 
eecond-hand  guns  on  hand,  cheap. 

Goods  sent  C.  O.  D.  to  all  parts  of  the  United  States. 

Ivory  and  Pearl  Stocks  put  on  Pistols.     Repairing  of  all  kinds  artistically  executed. 

Cartridges  for  Breech-loading  Shot  Guns,  ready  loaded,  put  up  in  boxes  ol  fifty  or 
loaded  to  order. 


CONROY,  BISSETT  &  MALLESON, 

65  Fulton  Street,  New  York, 

IMPORTERS  AND  MANUFACTURERS  OF 


The  attention  of  amateurs  is  particularly  called  to  their  stock  of 
RODS.  LINES 

SPLIT  BAMBOO,  FLY  and  SALMOM.          Of  all  varieties  :  SILK,  GRASS,  WATER-PROOF, 

ASH  and  LANCEWOOD  do.  do.  '  FLAX  and  COTTON. 

The  famed  ''McGiNNiss"  BLACK  BASS,  and 

all  other  varieties.  ALL  DESCRIPTIONS  OF 

REELS.  FLIES,    SHELLS,     HOOKS, 

For  SALMON,  TROUT,  BLACK  BASS,  STRIPED        NETS      BOOKS     &c.     &c . 
BASS,  &c.,  in  Rubber,  German  Silver,  and 

Braes.  $W  FLIES  of  any  pattern,  tied  to  order. 

Parties  fitted  out  for  the  Adirondacks,  the  Maine  Woods,  Lake  Superior,  Newport, 
Cutthyunk.  Pasque  Island,  West  Island,  &c.,  &c. 

Orders  by  mail  will  receive  careful  and  prompt  attention. 


BELMO^TYLE  OIL. 

PREVENTS    RUST   OR  TARNISH 

On  Guns  and  all  other  Polished  Goods.      Every  man  who  owns  a  gun  should 
have  a  bottle  of  it.      Send  for  circular. 

H.  B.  RIG-GS,  150  Front  Street,  New  York. 

FOR  SALE  BY  ALL  GUN  DEALERS. 


wU  N  T  EiD 

Game,  Birds,  and  Mammals 

I^O^L    S^HjE. 
ALSO,  SPECIMENS  OF  NATURAL  HISTORY. 

The  subscriber  has  on  hand  a  large  collection  of  Specimens  of  Natural  History,  con 
sisting  of  Mammals  and  Birds,  Nests,  Eggs,  Reptiles,  Injects,  Crustaceans,  etc.,  which 
arc  now  offered  for  sale  at  reasonable  prices.  Complete  collections  of  well  identified  and 
authenticated  specimen  a  (mounted  or  unmounted)  of  the  above,  furnished  for  Schools, 
Colleges,  Public  Institutions,  and  private  individuals  at  extremely  low  prices. 

Special  attention  given  to  mounting  Game;,  Mammals,  and  Birds,  in  life-like  attitudes. 

Also,  for  sale,  all  works  on  Natural  History  as  low,  if  not  lower,  than  they  can  be  pur- 
chased  elsewhere. 

Please  send  stamp  for  catalogue,  and  state  where  you  saw  this  advertisement. 

ADDRESS, 
Box  82.  €.  JT.  IVIAYNAKD,  Ipswich,  Essex  Co.,  Jtfass. 


A  ' 


'  6 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 
BERKELEY 

Return  to  desk  from  which  borrowed. 
This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


JUN  10  '64     p 
LD 


7  2003 


LD  21-95m-ll,'50(2877sl6)476 


WILLIAMSON. 


M316066 


